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My AWD Volvo V50 got smashed by a kid running a light, so now I think I want a 2010+ Legacy GT. Please tell me if this is a bad idea.
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Sep 3, 2018 21:34
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Treat it like you would buying a used WRX. Get a leak down and compression test. Make sure timing belt was changed at 105k if you are looking at mileage that high. In general, used LGT’s are different than WRX’s, they are less likely to be abused but more likely to be neglected like an appliance car. Also, AFAIK that car has a 6 speed (if you get a stick) but it’s not the same as the spec B/STI six speed and not as strong. But if you aren’t modding or launching that’s nothing to really consider. But that’s the newest generation Legacy GT and least desirable because many think it’s ugly so you should be in a good position to score a decent one.
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Sep 4, 2018 00:36
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i own every Bionicle posted:Treat it like you would buying a used WRX. Get a leak down and compression test. Make sure timing belt was changed at 105k if you are looking at mileage that high. In general, used LGT’s are different than WRX’s, they are less likely to be abused but more likely to be neglected like an appliance car. Are these tests something that is part of a "pre-purchase inspection"? Is a pre-purchase inspection at a dealership good enough?
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Sep 4, 2018 01:25
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obeyasia posted:Are these tests something that is part of a "pre-purchase inspection"? Is a pre-purchase inspection at a dealership good enough? Don't get a PPI from the place selling the car, they're always going to tell you it's tip-top.
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Sep 4, 2018 01:35
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Midjack posted:Don't get a PPI from the place selling the car, they're always going to tell you it's tip-top. I agree completely. Does anyone have experience with these Driveroo people? They do onsite, "independent" PPIs.
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Sep 4, 2018 01:40
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boscoman posted:Is there some sort of trick to downloading the pdfs? I'd like to save a local copy of the service manual, diagrams and all, but all I've come up with is using the print function on each chapter and just saving as a .pdf. Sorry haven't been keeping up with the thread. It was a while ago but I was able to download them as a PDF. I don't remember what steps I took though.
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Sep 4, 2018 23:49
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shy boy from chess club posted:I think that's literally the max amount. I forget where I read it, maybe even in the service manual. It's also possible to have valves hit ever so slightly and still run ok but later the head breaks off after hitting the valve seat crooked and snapping the stem 10k miles later or whatever. I had an aftermarket tensioner fail on my 07 legacy and it jumped 3 teeth. I replaced the tensioner and belt with OEM ones and the car was fine and ran for another 80000km before I sold it. No perceivable change in power or gas mileage.
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Sep 5, 2018 02:22
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Hum that changes with intensity with speed which seems the worst in the 50-60mph range. Tire shows a tiny bit inside block wear on one specific spot (about 6 inches) on the tire. Smells a bit more in the driver's side wheel well after driving. Wheel bearing? I can't really detect any play when tugging and yanking on the wheel itself, but I couldn't when my 2002's wheel bearings failed as well. Both of those failed without any noise at all (where detectable only by hub play) but I know that the 2011's have a different design so they may manifest symptoms in a different way.
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Sep 6, 2018 03:54
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2006 impreza wagon 2.5i non-turbo Getting infrequent/unrepeatable/unpredictable solid yellow check engine lights that go away after an arbitrary amount of time with the car turned off; cheap lovely OBD reader gives me code P0030. Checking online this is some kind of heat sensor, but I don't really know anything about it or whether I need to deal with this immediately or not. Any advice?
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Sep 6, 2018 06:49
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JawKnee posted:2006 impreza wagon 2.5i non-turbo This is an exhaust related code I think. Your cat cat could be going out. You'll probably want to get that checked out as this will affect your gas mileage.
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Sep 6, 2018 11:59
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JawKnee posted:2006 impreza wagon 2.5i non-turbo Front oxygen Sensor, not the rear. It's not too hard to Change. the most difficult part is getting the old one off because it's probably been on there for 11 years.
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Sep 6, 2018 12:13
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JawKnee posted:2006 impreza wagon 2.5i non-turbo I'd do it sooner than later even if you're paying a shop. Shouldn't be too terribly expensive. Front o2 sensor as stated.
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Sep 6, 2018 12:56
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I started thinking about the AWD on my 17 WRX and read some things and confused myself further. If I get it correct, since it's a 50/50 torque split from the center diff with open differentials that means that at all times half the power is in the front and the other half in the back? And that once that 50 goes to back (or front) it divides it based on which ever tire has more grip, ultimately dividing the power between the tires but at no point leaving one tire with no new power? Am I getting that right or is it something else entirely?
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Sep 7, 2018 21:59
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You had me until your last sentence. I couldn't quite parse what you meant. The balance of torque is 50/50 (also 50/50 left and right tire) until the point a tire loses grip. When a tire loses the grip the torque drops which in turn increases RPM if the throttle stays in the same position until it hits redline. The overall hp available to the wheels still making traction is reduced until traction is regained on all tires. I am unaware of the performance of the VLSD center in terms of how much locking (read; slipping) there is, but that will continue to transfer as much torque to the non slipping axle as it was designed to until it blows up.
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Sep 7, 2018 22:18
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Is it manual or CVT? The way the center diff works is a little different between the two. With an open diff, the torque split is always 50:50, regardless of wheel speeds or power or traction. So say you have the front wheels on ice and the rear wheels on pavement. The split is 50:50, but the front has zero traction. So the front gets zero torque. The 50:50 split means the rear also gets zero torque, and the engine generates zero torque, no matter how hard you floor it or rev the engine (remember how for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction? No traction = no torque output). At the other extreme, a fully locked center diff will transfer power proportionally to traction. So in that ice/pavement situation everything goes to the rear wheels and you move forward. With subaru diffs you wind up somewhere in the middle. The 5/6mts without DCCD have a viscous coupling in the center diff which generates some resistance to a speed difference and transfers some torque to the end with more grip. With the older diffs, that figure was 4kg-m/100rpm, which means for every 100 rpm difference between the front and rear output shafts you would get 4kg-m of resistance. That works out to about 26 lb-ft. However I don't think that is a linear relationship and there is a limit to how much torque it will actually transfer. I don't know what that is. jamal fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Sep 7, 2018 |
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Sep 7, 2018 22:20
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Non-sti manual transmission? If so, here's an easier way to visualize it. Imagine 3 open diffs (front, center, and rear.) Under that situation, driving straight with 100% traction on each tire, you essentially have a 25% torque split per wheel. Now, take that center diff and wrap a torque converter around it. That's essentially what the viscous coupling is. If both front and rear driveshafts turn at the same rate, the plates spin at the same rate and the fluid doesn't transfer power between them. If one starts turning faster (wheel spin on that axle), the plate attached to that driveshaft spins faster which then makes the fluid spin and that fluid tries to drag along the other plate on the slower turning driveshaft. That transfers the power from the spinning side to the non spinning side. I believe if the fluid heats up enough, the plates will lock together, creating a direct mechanical linkage for a brief period, giving you the same effect as a 50/50 locked diff. Now the front and rear axles are open and just rely on traction control to dampen wheelspin. When the brakes are applied to the spinning wheel, that creates resistance though the whole drivetrain, redistributing more power to the slower turning wheels.
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Sep 7, 2018 22:23
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If I wanted a trailer hitch for an 18 Crosstrek should I go through a dealer? What price should I expect?
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Sep 7, 2018 22:36
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Order one from e-trailer, install yourself (or find a not-dealer mechanic to do it for you). Dealer is going to be like $600. curt or whatever hitch is under $200 and it's pretty easy to install.
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Sep 7, 2018 22:47
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net work error posted:I started thinking about the AWD on my 17 WRX and read some things and confused myself further. 50/50 refers to the internal gearing of the center differential. This can not change (this is hardware). The different F/R splits is always set by the centre diff's respective gears in a mechanical constanst AWD system like Subarus. Infinently variable like say a GTR is handled by things like viscous couplings and electronically and are quite different. How and when the various locking mechanisms or in the case of the 17 WRX, where the VLSD begins to tighten and the electronic systems kick in are a different story. On your car, the VLSD begins to tighten when the fluid in the coupling gets worked with a difference in front / rear rotation speeds - ie if say the front is scrabbling for traction but the rear isnt, the VLSD fluid thickens to make more force go to the back than to the front. 4kg of force per 100 rpm of wheel speed difference is what the VLSD on a stock WRX is rated at - ie it'll push back at a rotational difference at 4kgs of force per 100 rpm difference. On left / right, the ABS sensors will pick up rotational speed differences and apply the brake to the wheel with less traction at a pre detirmined point. Now depending on when exactly the diffs are locking or the stability control is kicking in, all that is called apparent torque split and quite different to the base mechanical split. Notice at no time did the mechanical split change, just the way the system resists rotational differences? Mechanical split never changes. Apparent does. People get the two confused a lot. Subaru doesnt help with the crap they throw out in marketing.
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Sep 8, 2018 12:41
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Thanks for the replies everyone, I think I sort of get it a little better now. My main hang ups were the left/right wheel actions going on due to the open diff. Part of the cause for the thinking was because I get better times in autocrosses usually with everything off as opposed to semi-off with the torque vectoring (braking) option still on. Maybe I just need to give it more go's with the semi-off approach to take more advantage of it.
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Sep 8, 2018 14:23
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Mechanical split never changes. Apparent does. People get the two confused a lot. Subaru doesnt help with the crap they throw out in marketing. With any sort of lockup mechanism (vlsd, dccd, vtd, torsen, whatever), the torque split absolutely does change and the amount of lockup determines the potential bias. Fully open- 50:50 always. Fully locked, anywhere from 0:100 to 100:0 based on traction. vlsds and non-locking diffs, somewhere in between. Take the example I gave with front wheels on ice, rear wheels on pavement. LSD is generating lockup. What happens to the torque split? jamal fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Sep 8, 2018 |
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Sep 8, 2018 16:10
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The torque split of the gear mechanism is deterministic. The torque bias imparted by any of the locking stuff isn't - the viscous couplings transfer torque from the fast to slow side determined by relative speed, the DCCD coupling does so based on a clutch pack energized with a magnetic coil programmed by various factors. It's not useful to talk about torque split of any of that because it's torque at the outputs isn't solely determined by input torque anymore.
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Sep 8, 2018 20:52
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jamal posted:With any sort of lockup mechanism (vlsd, dccd, vtd, torsen, whatever), the torque split absolutely does change and the amount of lockup determines the potential bias. Fully open- 50:50 always. Fully locked, anywhere from 0:100 to 100:0 based on traction. vlsds and non-locking diffs, somewhere in between. The base mechanical torque split is still 50:50. All that is going on is the differentials are trying to correct a difference in rotational speed, in this case by applying a 4kg force per 100rpm difference. Your apparent split does but as MeKill said - It's not useful to talk about torque split of any of that because it's torque at the outputs isn't solely determined by input torque anymore. It's far more useful to talk about the why, whens, hows and how much a diff tries to restrict rotational speed differences.
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Sep 8, 2018 23:37
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Just out of curiosity, how much of a fire hazard would removing the heat shields on the exhaust manifold of a 98 Outback be? I do go camping in CA in the summer so dry grass is a real possibility.
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Sep 9, 2018 02:44
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Hugh G. Rectum posted:Just out of curiosity, how much of a fire hazard would removing the heat shields on the exhaust manifold of a 98 Outback be? I do go camping in CA in the summer so dry grass is a real possibility. Well given I've seen a car burn to the ground due to the combination of no heat shields / dry grass...... my advice would be dont do it.
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Sep 9, 2018 04:50
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Well given I've seen a car burn to the ground due to the combination of no heat shields / dry grass...... my advice would be dont do it. Yeah I lit a hay bale on fire with my first car after driving it around a pumpkin field. Thanks to my dad for reminding me why it's always important to have an extinguisher on hand.
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Sep 9, 2018 13:18
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poo poo I was afraid of that. Currently I have both a cracked manifold AND heat shield mounts that are totally hosed. it sounds like two skeletons loving in a metal filing cabinet to put it lightly. rockauto only sells the entire drat exhaust for $350 but all I need is the very beginning before the Y-joint. despite being a California car it goes camping quite a lot down trails that are not meant for a stock subie. it was death by a thousand songs. e: never mind I’m an idiot, the Y-pipes are stocked separately under the very descriptive “Pipes” section. any opinions on walker vs. bosal on fitment? Hugh G. Rectum fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Sep 10, 2018 |
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Sep 9, 2018 23:41
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Do 16" steel Forester wheels fit over GC/GD 4 pot brakers or do I need a spacer? Visually it looks pretty close - 15" dont work but 16" have a difference in offset that look like it might work. Google-fu is failing me tonight. I need to do a brake job on the old 99 Forester and I just so happen to have a few sets of MY99 WRX brakes sitting around...... I'd prefer not to change tyres to the 16" MY99 rims if possible.
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Sep 17, 2018 11:19
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This might be a very dumb question, but my 2019 Crosstrek didn't come with front license plate frame, or screws, just 2 holes. What screws should I use to attach my front plate?
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Sep 17, 2018 18:25
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luminalflux posted:This might be a very dumb question, but my 2019 Crosstrek didn't come with front license plate frame, or screws, just 2 holes. What screws should I use to attach my front plate? My 2018 WRX didn't even have holes. It had literally nothing for a license plate. The dealership gave me a frame and drilled 2 holes in my bumper right in front of me  Any screws that fit the holes should probably be fine  but if its a new car just go complain at the dealership and they should give you some screws.
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Sep 17, 2018 18:31
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Self-tapping screws?
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Sep 17, 2018 18:31
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Wow I would've thought that there was like, an M6 threaded hole for them instead of being self-tapping screws. I'll call the dealership and ask what they'd use, they're 2 hours away and the hardware store is right around the corner so that seems easier.
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Sep 17, 2018 18:37
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Zaphod42 posted:My 2018 WRX didn't even have holes. It had literally nothing for a license plate. The dealership gave me a frame and drilled 2 holes in my bumper right in front of me When I bought my Mini, the salesman stood there for a second with a drill and said "I just can't do it." He handed me the plate and some self-tappers and told me to carry it in my trunk in case the fuzz gave me trouble. It's a non-moving violation in IL, so I technically shouldn't be pulled over for it (true, I haven't run a front plate since 2006). I'm also very, very white so I get a free pass.
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Sep 17, 2018 18:38
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Self-tapping screws. But then you run the problem of tightening them down too much and then pulling out the screws through the plastic bumper. In which case, you can use some drywall anchors to tighten them up, the cheaper and shittier the better. Those big fat screw-type drywall anchors aren't going to do you any good here.
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Sep 17, 2018 18:41
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Rivnut that poo poo. I've slowly been replacing plastic clips in my interior where it makes sense because the clips are engineered to disintegrate on removal. Haven't had a need to do it for license plate holes but if I did that's the route I'd take. And cry a little bit as I press the drill into the bodywork.
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Sep 17, 2018 18:51
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If you don't want to drill holes you can probably get a bracket that goes into the tow hook hole. I assume the ones for a wrx will work on a crosstrek.
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Sep 17, 2018 18:55
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Friend has a 2003 WRX, 2.0, ~160k. He's the original owner. He's had a CEL for awhile. Just moved back to TX and has to smog it. Codes: P0137 P1086 P1089 P1092 One of those is obviously an O2 sensor. The rest are related to what sounded like a made up term to me (tumble generator valve), but is apparently a real thing. I'm guessing they're all related to a bad position sensor, but I know nothing about Subarus. On a scale of 1 to LOL, how difficult are we looking at for DIY? He's also having issues with his shifter that I suspect to be bushings - "my shifter is falling apart. I can completely move stick left and right while in gear, gear 2 to gear 3 aren't lined up & 5th is WAYYY far right." If it's bushings, is this something that can be done without dropping the trans? He was quoted $900 by a local shop to throw new shifter bushings at it. 
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Sep 18, 2018 07:26
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TGVs are part of the manifold, right where the injectors are. There's a rod that goes through with little "throttle plates" that close on cold starts to improve emissions. So each side has a little motor and a little sensor to move them. I guess first make sure everything is plugged in and bolted down. They can be removed, but the manifold needs to come off and then the ecu needs to be flashed to tell it to ignore them. Most of the shifter play is likely coming from the u-joint linkage that attaches right to the selector rod coming out of the back of the trans. On an 02 it's easiest to just replace the whole thing, on later cars you can take it apart and put in new bushings. A new linkage from the dealer is like $65? You can get to it by just pulling the trans x-member, holding the trans up with a jack, and lowering it a little. While you're in there, you might as well replace the other bushings too. I wrote a thing with about all you'd ever want to know about the subaru shifter here: http://hellafunctional.com/?p=1626 and I do sell bushings and linkages and short shifters and stuff.
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Sep 18, 2018 16:18
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Would a Crosstrek work w two kids in rear facing seats, since they rear face until like five now? Or would I need to go Outback, which infuriatingly ties modern headlights to a loving moonroof
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Sep 19, 2018 22:18
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shovelbum posted:Would a Crosstrek work w two kids in rear facing seats, since they rear face until like five now? Or would I need to go Outback, which infuriatingly ties modern headlights to a loving moonroof Rear facing til 5? How does that even work? I don’t see why a Crosstrek would be any different than an Outback in the context of a rear facing child seat since it’s just gonna be tethered to the seat itself either way. It’s not like there’s leg room considerations like they’re facing forward. That being said I couldn’t imagine my kids facing backwards any longer than they did, especially my older son since he’s always been long and lanky.
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Sep 19, 2018 22:23
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