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um excuse me posted:Can't really put a price on safety. Headlights are on my list, it's just I have things that i have to deal with that are even more dangerous to ignore!  That's a brake line. Replaced them all with stainless lines today. Feels about the same pedalwise, but before I was unable to lock the wheels at speed.
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Aug 19, 2018 22:57
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um excuse me posted:
Sure you don't have air in the lines still? I've never had a car that it wasn't a pretty immediate difference in pedal stiffness. Unless you're running pads with very little bite, I guess.
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Aug 20, 2018 00:26
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I did an entire fluid flush as well. My hypothesis is garbage pads. The car has had a rough past, I wouldn't be surprised if a PO put the cheapest pads they could find on it. No matter though, those will be replaced as well.
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Aug 20, 2018 01:42
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Removing the heater hoses makes removing the cas so much easier. Luckilly they needed replacement anyway. O ring on the cas was rock hard.
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Aug 20, 2018 02:49
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So I finally got down to business and replaced my old and busted exhaust on my miata. I snagged a racing beat header, magnaflow cat, and cobalt mid pipe and muffler, along with all new gaskets and hardware. I also snagged a new o2 sensor and used the old cruddy one to plug up the downstream hole which isin't used on my '95. Overall the install went pretty smoothly, everything fit perfectly, and the hardest part was stripping the new o2 sensor wires with my busted rear end old wire stripper. It sounds ptetty good - not too farty but loud enough that it's fun - and best of all no rust or busted bolts or exhaust leaks! The green '01 is my friends 6 speed special editon - she let her ex drive it for a bit and she blew the headgasket - the dealer wanted to just replace the whole engine so I figured I'd give it a shot - going to do a compression+leakdown test first and then start tearing it apart - hopefully it's just the radiator and gasket. The other car is my new daily - '18 Civic Si, which I must say is an absolutely fantastic car. Old and busted:  New Hotness:                             
Voltage fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Aug 21, 2018 |
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Aug 21, 2018 04:42
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Is there any way to box off that intake to draw air from outside of the car? I can't think of a much worse place to have it.
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Aug 21, 2018 05:18
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That's a nice hot air intake you've got there.
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Aug 21, 2018 06:49
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It came with the car - I'd like to reroute or box it out, but I'm curious as to how much power I'm actually losing if I just keep it as is.
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Aug 21, 2018 13:18
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Also - worth getting a megasquirt? I'd love to just tinker with it, but since I have an intake and exhaust I assume I could eek out at least a little extra power, or is it not worth it since I'm staying NA.
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Aug 22, 2018 02:47
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I eventually want to go catless with massive 300+ duration cams and ITBs. All NA and none of that is happening without megasquirt. It's cool at the very least to take that extra step to learn how modern engines work. I think that's worth the $600 or so myself. A lot of people will disagree though.
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Aug 22, 2018 03:33
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Voltage posted:Also - worth getting a megasquirt? I'd love to just tinker with it, but since I have an intake and exhaust I assume I could eek out at least a little extra power, or is it not worth it since I'm staying NA. It's not the worst thing you can spend money on (kyb shocks). There are some old dyno charts floating around of stock (or stockish) Miatas getting a good 10 ft-lbs+ across the entire range just switching out the ECU. A VVT motor with a tuned air intake (~22-24" length), RB header, and 2.25" exhaust is an easy recipe for ~140-150ish whp @ 120+ ft-lbs.
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Aug 22, 2018 04:28
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Got a cruise control switch and rewired my clutch switch to it. Have to hold cruise on to start the car instead of clutch. Should prevent 98.33% (repeating of course) of thefts. Just get a cruise switch. Find the two pins that connect when you hit on and wire them to some spades and stick them into the cruise switch connector. Car just looks like it has factory cruise. Maybe I shouldn't tell anyone lol Don Lapre fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Aug 25, 2018 |
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Aug 25, 2018 02:37
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Don Lapre posted:Got a cruise control switch and rewired my clutch switch to it. Have to hold cruise on to start the car instead of clutch. Should prevent 98.33% (repeating of course) of thefts. I was thinking of doing something along these lines to mine if I ever upgrade the clutch, since FM says to mechanically bypass the clutch interlock to save the thrust bearings in the engine. If I use that clamp thing then I don't have cruise control anymore since the system will see the clutch pedal as always in.
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Aug 25, 2018 10:41
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Got a krikit gauge. Both accessory belts are way under tensioned. Hopefully fixing it fixes some noises I have.
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Aug 26, 2018 02:07
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I should probably get one as well. One of the belt's been squeaking when cold since forever but seems to become more frequent now. Guessing it's the alternator since the charging voltage drops while it slips.
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Aug 26, 2018 08:24
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Farking Bastage posted:I hope you fine folk aren't too hostile towards those little turbo'ed mutants with the Italian bodywork. I bought one yesterday. That's gorgeous. If I didn't believe in having 3 car payments I'd be searching right now. You guys think they'll ever update the 124 down the line (ie, get it more in line with the ND's hp) or is it a one-generation vehicle?
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Aug 26, 2018 23:10
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GD_American posted:That's gorgeous. If I didn't believe in having 3 car payments I'd be searching right now. I get the feeling it's a one and done. Look at the regular 500, they haven't really done anything with it since 2007.
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Aug 27, 2018 12:20
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Welp, brought the NA to the shop because I can't figure out why my driveline creaks when I reverse or apply brakes. Checked the rotors for cracks, nothing. Checked the CV axle for slop and the boots for tears, nothing. Checked the wheel bearings for slop, nothing. It was driving me crazy so I enlisted professional help.
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Aug 27, 2018 17:07
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I did all the measuring over the weekend, and determined that if I rotate my Miata 90 degrees on wheel dollies and push it against the back wall of my two car garage I can (surprisingly comfortably) fit all three of our cars in our two car garage. Harbor Freight has two options: These knock-off GoJaks which don't require a jack and just lift your car with a foot pedal: https://www.harborfreight.com/1250-lbs-capacity-vehicle-positioning-wheel-dolly-62234.html And these much cheaper versions that require the car to be jacked up first: https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-1500-lb-capacity-vehicle-dollies-67338.html I'm leaning towards the GoJak knock-offs largely because all the videos I've seen make it seem like way less screwing around to just pump the pedal a few times on each wheel but because of how I'll need to position the car against the wall to make everything fit I'm not going to be able to lower one side down so it'll stay up on the dollies over the winter. I keep seeing lots of people online saying that this is going to gently caress up my tires and cause flat spots where it's resting on the two rollers of the dollies, but I haven't seen anyone that this has actually happened to. Is this something to worry about at all? Or am I correct in my assumption that modern tires sitting on dollies like this for ~5 months won't result in any damage that doesn't just immediately work itself out as soon as the tires warm up after a few minutes of driving?
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Aug 27, 2018 17:29
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I just rolled it back and forth every few weeks, but that's probably not an option for you...
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Aug 27, 2018 21:18
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They heavily salt roads here so I have winter cars that are already rusting, I park my Miata for 5-6 months at a time with no flat spotting, when I had a Lotus Esprit and it was only driven a few hundred miles a year it got flat spotted tires that needed replacing.
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Aug 27, 2018 21:32
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Yeah I'm in the Chicago 'burbs where they use so much salt on the roads it's borderline unbelievable.
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Aug 28, 2018 00:19
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Unless your tires are under inflated or already on their last legs you will be fine.
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Aug 28, 2018 01:17
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Rhyno posted:
So how is this going? I'm about to start tearing my NA apart to replace the absolutely disgusting tan carpet with black and I'm going to change the whole thing to black I'm getting the seats reupholstered in black cloth with red stitching 
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Sep 1, 2018 10:35
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BloodBag posted:So how is this going? I'm about to start tearing my NA apart to replace the absolutely disgusting tan carpet with black and I'm going to change the whole thing to black I'm getting the seats reupholstered in black cloth with red stitching Had some life stuff pop up (nothing bad) so the interior project has been on the backburner a bit. Still haven't pulled the dash and am still a bit hesitant to do so. I hit a NC owner up on Instagram and he's been giving me tons of help with some stylistic changes I want to make. And I now qualify to work overtime at work so I'll be doing that every other weekend so even less time to work on it. I did pull my carpets and while I was originally going to replace it there s only a tiny hole from my heel so I'm still going with the nice rubber mats.
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Sep 1, 2018 10:45
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About to start tearing in to my friends '01 - long story short the radiator blew and it overheated, she took it to a shop which told her it had a blown headgasket and needed a new engine and also a new subframe - so I figured I'd give a shot and see if it just needs a rad and headgasket (and timing belt while I have it apart. I just plugged all the wiring back in so I can do a compression test, and if it's no good I'll just pull the head and check for damage. Any tips?
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Sep 1, 2018 18:38
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If it overheated, there's a good chance the head is done; if it was dieseling on your friend, it's most likely toast. But you won't know this until you start pulling it apart and send it off to a machine shop. Junkyard longblocks should be in the $800-1200 range. I know a lot of people have had luck with motors from Japan, too.
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Sep 1, 2018 19:34
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Finally cured my over 5k rpm metallic noise. loving factory exhaust. Put a OEM replacement on and noise is all gone.
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Sep 1, 2018 19:45
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My 2003's A/C is short cycling, about 5 seconds on and 5 seconds off. Cant keep up in 90+ heat. Seems like the passenger side radiator fan isn't coming on at all, which is supposed to be the one that comes on with the AC system according to the internet. So I'm thinking fan, relay, or electronics. What are the steps to diagnose whats broken?
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Sep 2, 2018 19:18
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mcgreenvegtables posted:My 2003's A/C is short cycling, about 5 seconds on and 5 seconds off. Cant keep up in 90+ heat. Seems like the passenger side radiator fan isn't coming on at all, which is supposed to be the one that comes on with the AC system according to the internet. So I'm thinking fan, relay, or electronics. What are the steps to diagnose whats broken? You probably need refrigerant. What it's almost definitely doing is:
Go put a gauge on the refrigerant line and report back. Note: if your fan is straight up not working it could be doing the same thing in reverse after the ac has had a while (1 min?) to overheat the system. Ac would still work on the freeway and I don't think it would cycle that fast. Cat Hatter fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Sep 2, 2018 |
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Sep 2, 2018 20:28
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mcgreenvegtables posted:My 2003's A/C is short cycling, about 5 seconds on and 5 seconds off. Cant keep up in 90+ heat. Seems like the passenger side radiator fan isn't coming on at all, which is supposed to be the one that comes on with the AC system according to the internet. So I'm thinking fan, relay, or electronics. What are the steps to diagnose whats broken? The fan is the problem here. "Fan" fuse feeds another "AC Fan"? fuse. The fan motor itself may be bad or may not be getting a ground. "Engine" fuse powers the relay, ECM activates it. The relay itself may be bad. If you can, use some wires to put power to the fan directly, you'll know right away if the fan motor is shot. Also start it up, put the AC on, and check for power and ground at the fan plug. Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Sep 2, 2018 |
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Sep 2, 2018 20:30
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Well gently caress you to traffic!  
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Sep 3, 2018 11:40
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Does the NB have that diagnostics port? On the NA if you jumper GND to TFA, it'll turn on both fans if the key is in the on position.
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Sep 3, 2018 12:21
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If you're playing around with jumpers, I think you can connect the wires going into the low pressure cutoff switch to each other with the ac on and it should stay on to test if low refrigerant is the problem. Don't do this for any longer than you need to because you're basically running the compressor without proper lubrication.
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Sep 3, 2018 18:38
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Shai-Hulud posted:Well gently caress you to traffic! So this is, according to the shop that had a look at it, a 2500€ repair job. Lets see if the insurance is willing to pay that or if they are trying to get it written off as totaled...
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Sep 5, 2018 08:13
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Shai-Hulud posted:So this is, according to the shop that had a look at it, a 2500€ repair job. Lets see if the insurance is willing to pay that or if they are trying to get it written off as totaled... Is that repair quote based on them buying you a new NB? Because 2.5k will get you a tidy one.
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Sep 5, 2018 08:53
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Theophany posted:Is that repair quote based on them buying you a new NB? Because 2.5k will get you a tidy one. Most of it is painting half of the car because of the scratches around the rear lights. But around here I'd be hard pressed to find a halfway decent roadworthy NB with the 1.9l engine that's not rusted to hell or leaking like crazy for 2,5k.
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Sep 5, 2018 09:53
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Shai-Hulud posted:Most of it is painting half of the car because of the scratches around the rear lights. But around here I'd be hard pressed to find a halfway decent roadworthy NB with the 1.9l engine that's not rusted to hell or leaking like crazy for 2,5k. Yikes, I didn't realise the market was that lofty in Germany.
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Sep 5, 2018 12:15
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Theophany posted:Yikes, I didn't realise the market was that lofty in Germany. Yeah i had a look around and can only find one car in 100km range thats cheaper than 2,5k (1,6k to be precise) and still has a valid TÜV inspection. And you can see the rust gnawing on that one from the pictures alone. After that you get a couple ones at 2,5k that need their TÜV redone so who knows how hosed those are and then the prices go up to 4-5k fast. Im' thinking about just doing the repair myself and pocketing the money though. Changing the bumper can't be that hard. I just have to find someone to paint it.
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Sep 5, 2018 13:23
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What's the best NA replacement battery these days?
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Sep 5, 2018 22:33
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