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Well, I ended up going by the GW store near me today, so I just ended up picking up the Deathwing Command Squad set with Caliban Green and some other colors. Still, I appreciate the feedback. I'll have to watch that Hobby Cheats paint guide video later. What's a good choice for plastic glue? (I figured it wasn't worth buying the Citadel brand) Would I be okay with the Testors Liquid Cement?: https://www.amazon.com/Testors-3507AT-Liquid-Plastic-1-Ounce/dp/B00005CA7S/ref=sr_1_2
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Sep 5, 2018 22:29
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I bought that same liquid cement, since it's what I used to use as a kid, when it came with a metal tip. It works very well, but for some reason it takes forever to reach the tip of the applicator, and waiting for it to reach the tip takes up a lot of my building time, no joke.
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Sep 5, 2018 22:45
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Use a lighter to heat the tip and get things moving. Huff the fumes
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Sep 5, 2018 22:51
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always be closing posted:I bought that same liquid cement, since it's what I used to use as a kid, when it came with a metal tip. It works very well, but for some reason it takes forever to reach the tip of the applicator, and waiting for it to reach the tip takes up a lot of my building time, no joke. I came across an old 8oz tube of it, but when I think it was half dried, and whenever I tried to squeeze any out, it would just pour out without stopping. I don't know if I still have it or if it got thrown out.
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Sep 5, 2018 22:57
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Forget needle applicators, Tamiya cement and extra thin cement are the best, after having only used contacta pro for years.
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Sep 5, 2018 23:41
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Will the ammonia in glass cleaner harm the seals on an airbrush?
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Sep 5, 2018 23:44
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Seen many posts swearing by it.
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Sep 5, 2018 23:51
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Cat Face Joe posted:Will the ammonia in glass cleaner harm the seals on an airbrush? It'll weaken the rubber seals, yeah. Dries them out and they'll eventually deteriorate and become useless.
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Sep 5, 2018 23:52
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Cat Face Joe posted:Will the ammonia in glass cleaner harm the seals on an airbrush? Not if you use it as a cleaner or whatever, basically as long as you don't soak your airbrush in Windex for hours it will be fine. There was an official statement from the dude who owns Badger to that effect.
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Sep 5, 2018 23:54
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I just use loctite for pretty much all my gluing, to be honest. Where it doesn't want to work I apply a little talcum powder with a toothpick.
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Sep 6, 2018 00:08
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Loctite Pro is good for resin/pewter, but HIPS is so much easier to work with when you use plastic cement. It has a much wider margin of error, and the final hold is a lot stronger too (which may be a bad thing if you like to rip your minis apart later to change stuff).
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Sep 6, 2018 00:13
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Avenging Dentist posted:Loctite Pro is good for resin/pewter, but HIPS is so much easier to work with when you use plastic cement. It has a much wider margin of error, and the final hold is a lot stronger too (which may be a bad thing if you like to rip your minis apart later to change stuff). True. I also have the complication that a lot of 1/72 soft plastics (which is, well, most 1/72 non-metals) don't take glue well, while Loctite's primer+glue combo usually works just fine on them as well as other plastics and metals.
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Sep 6, 2018 00:21
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Cat Face Joe posted:Will the ammonia in glass cleaner harm the seals on an airbrush? I use ammonia-free glass cleaner for that reason.
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Sep 6, 2018 01:31
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ijyt posted:Forget needle applicators, Tamiya cement and extra thin cement are the best, after having only used contacta pro for years. I decided to go with the extra thin Tamiya cement here instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMYWYC/ I know this is an odd question, but is there a thread for model kits like Gundams and whatnot? That was something that popped up in the related products, and was something else I thought about doing. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Sep 6, 2018 |
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Sep 6, 2018 03:23
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I would absolutely second Tamiya extra thin cement, I was previously using some citadel glue and wanted something that I could use to form a more seamless join between parts. It's very effective, and my only worry is that the wicked fumes it gives off are slowly killing me (so I ventilate and use a mask if I'm slathering it on terrain). -edit- For plastic to plastic applications, not suggesting you try to glue plastic to metal with it or anything. BurlapNapkin fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Sep 6, 2018 |
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Sep 6, 2018 03:29
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Max Wilco posted:I decided to go with the extra thin Tamiya cement here instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMYWYC/ https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3678195
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Sep 6, 2018 04:09
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BurlapNapkin posted:I would absolutely second Tamiya extra thin cement, I was previously using some citadel glue and wanted something that I could use to form a more seamless join between parts. It's very effective, and my only worry is that the wicked fumes it gives off are slowly killing me (so I ventilate and use a mask if I'm slathering it on terrain). To be honest, for big stuff I'd probably use regular Tamiya. It has a stronger hold.
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Sep 6, 2018 04:11
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BurlapNapkin posted:I would absolutely second Tamiya extra thin cement, I was previously using some citadel glue and wanted something that I could use to form a more seamless join between parts. It's very effective, and my only worry is that the wicked fumes it gives off are slowly killing me (so I ventilate and use a mask if I'm slathering it on terrain). If you're really worried about the fumes, theres always this http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87113limonene_cement/index.htm
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Sep 6, 2018 07:53
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Avenging Dentist posted:To be honest, for big stuff I'd probably use regular Tamiya. It has a stronger hold. I’ve built terrain using extra thin and its held up fine, using the capillary action method.
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Sep 6, 2018 12:10
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Symetrique posted:If you're really worried about the fumes, theres always this For like 20 years I've been trying to figure out why my blue-tube of model glue smelled like lemon jellybeans and now I know. Nice!
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Sep 6, 2018 12:33
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How does it taste?
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Sep 6, 2018 12:47
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Eifert Posting posted:How does it taste? Revell Contacta tastes awful.
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Sep 6, 2018 13:12
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Eifert Posting posted:How does it taste? The orange-tube stuff I originally used smelled awful and the fumes made me feel dizzy so I got the blue-tube stuff that was labeled non-toxic. I never ate it though?
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Sep 6, 2018 13:20
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Eifert Posting posted:How does it taste? 
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Sep 6, 2018 16:15
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Thanks. Was getting ready to soak the brush and could not for the life of me get the seals off. After a lot of cautious yet dangerous work I managed to get them off in one piece. darnon posted:I use ammonia-free glass cleaner for that reason. The only ammonia free ones were also scented so your windows can get that fresh breeze scent.
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Sep 6, 2018 18:54
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Schadenboner posted:The orange-tube stuff I originally used smelled awful and the fumes made me feel dizzy so I got the blue-tube stuff that was labeled non-toxic. I never ate it though? Was that the old orange-tube Testors glue? Man, that stuff is the original old-skool glue huffers ambrosia. Wonder how many brain cells I killed getting a whiff of that stuff when I was a kid building models.
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Sep 7, 2018 00:40
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Was that the old orange-tube Testors glue? Think so, yeah. The blue nontoxic one smelled like lemons. 
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Sep 7, 2018 01:23
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For anyone who used and liked them, Reaper are discontinuing production of the MSP HD paint seriesquote:Dear Reaper Nation,
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Sep 8, 2018 16:34
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NTRabbit posted:For anyone who used and liked them, Reaper are discontinuing production of the MSP HD paint series LOL, good thing I already started moving over to Vallejo Extra Opaque!
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Sep 8, 2018 16:58
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I've really liked all the Scale75 paints I've picked up, if anyone needs another high-pigment alternative. They're sooo matte.
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Sep 8, 2018 17:21
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NTRabbit posted:For anyone who used and liked them, Reaper are discontinuing production of the MSP HD paint series gently caress me, those are half the paints I use
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Sep 8, 2018 18:28
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Do we know why they're discontinuing that line?
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Sep 9, 2018 00:14
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X-Posting. Haven't finished a unit in ages.ijyt posted:Painted some boiz.
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Sep 9, 2018 18:02
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Slimnoid posted:Do we know why they're discontinuing that line? I didn't see them give a reason
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Sep 9, 2018 19:53
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Working on the Kill Team contents, love the Genestealer Cult models!
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Sep 9, 2018 20:32
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Finished the bulk of a skirmish force for Age of Sigmar, just need a couple archers and a leader.     
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Sep 9, 2018 20:45
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Count_Brass posted:Working on the Kill Team contents, love the Genestealer Cult models! Awesome job!
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Sep 9, 2018 23:28
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I'm doing a Stalingrad army for Flames of War, and decided to put a little effort into the bases, for once. I almost always do lazy paint -> flock -> done bases.   The guys are obviously WIP. I think the bases are pretty decent, but I feel like they need a little something more, I'm just not sure what.
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Sep 10, 2018 00:24
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About...half done with my Kill Team board. A couple more big terrain pieces to put together, and then it’s painting flocking and water effect’ing everything, plus a bunch of stacks of rusty barrels and boxes for smaller cover to throw everywhere. Also need to spray down and seal the bottom of the board in case it gets wet, MDF doesn’t like moisture at all.
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Sep 10, 2018 00:38
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Oops wrong thread
Harvey Mantaco fucked around with this message at 06:32 on Sep 10, 2018 |
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Sep 10, 2018 05:01
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