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Charles posted:Really, that seems counter-intuitive, but the corded one has 300ft-lbs and the M18 battery has 450ft-lbs. Hmm go with ryobi, they are a good bargain for non-professional users edit: charles, you're in the seattle area right? i have a cordless impact gun, one working battery, one dead one, and a portable light for 25 bucks. Ingersoll Rand 1/2" Cordless Impact Kit 19.2V 2530K 350lb-ft 
OBAMNA PHONE fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Sep 6, 2018 |
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Sep 6, 2018 16:06
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Wrar posted:The big 18/20v 1/2" impact guns compete with air now. They're also pretty great when a friend or family calls needing help with a flat tire.
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Sep 6, 2018 16:51
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I'm not sure what everyone's budget is, but you can regularly get the DeWalt DCF899 for $250-275 with a battery and charger. 700ft lbs, with 1200 breakaway!
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Sep 6, 2018 17:19
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I have the 1/2 M18 Fuel gun, and i regularly unfuckerate rusted tractor subframe bolts with it.
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Sep 6, 2018 17:32
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I have the DCF899HB which has the hog ring instead of the detent. I've destroyed a S14 240SX rear subframe bolt with it. Do not become addicted to the braps for it can destroy things around you.
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Sep 6, 2018 17:33
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Wrar posted:I have the DCF899HB which has the hog ring instead of the detent. I've destroyed a S14 240SX rear subframe bolt with it. Do not become addicted to the braps for it can destroy things around you. That’s a feature. Either unfuck bolts and nuts or gently caress them right off. It’s coming disconnected either way.
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Sep 6, 2018 17:38
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M18 fuel impacts are the poo poo
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Sep 6, 2018 18:25
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My M18 Fuel mid torque impact did a fabulous job driving 14"x1/2" lag bolts into the ground at Burning Man. I figure I'll also buy the high torque one if I run into an axle or crank bolt that needs it, until then I'll use the lighter and smaller driver.
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Sep 6, 2018 18:59
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Charles posted:Really, that seems counter-intuitive, but the corded one has 300ft-lbs and the M18 battery has 450ft-lbs. Hmm Rye Bread posted:I'm not sure what everyone's budget is, but you can regularly get the DeWalt DCF899 for $250-275 with a battery and charger. 700ft lbs, with 1200 breakaway! https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...67-20/302654201 Specs listed are 1100 ft-lbs of fastening torque, 1400 ft-lbs of "nut-busting" torque. I think I have an older version of that with a little less torque; it has two settings: one for the full rust-loving power, one that's slower and much less torque (call it 50 ft-lbs) that you can use without twisting screws off, I use it for installing lug nuts. Buying into the battery system is a bit of a pain, but they have a pretty good line of tools, especially the M12 stuff. The charger I have will charge both M18 and M12. Also for Milwaukee, Fuel batteries are compatible with Fuel and non-Fuel tools, and the reverse works I think but won't give you full power. Other brands are probably fine as well.
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Sep 6, 2018 19:39
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boxen posted:[url]Also for Milwaukee, Fuel batteries are compatible with Fuel and non-Fuel tools, and the reverse works I think but won't give you full power. M18 is M18. There are several capacities available but “Fuel” just means the tool has a brushless motor. (M18 is up to 12.0 now?! Time to throw all my 9.0 in the garbage)
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Sep 6, 2018 19:46
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Nthing the M18 turbo nut fuckers. If that won’t budge it, get a saw.
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Sep 6, 2018 19:57
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It did just burn all of the brushes on my Ryobi impact wrench, maybe it's time to join the Bolsheviks...
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Sep 6, 2018 20:49
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Rye Bread posted:I'm not sure what everyone's budget is, but you can regularly get the DeWalt DCF899 for $250-275 with a battery and charger. 700ft lbs, with 1200 breakaway! I have one of those and it whips rear end. Good battery life too.
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Sep 6, 2018 21:53
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Love my 3-speed Makita. LXT for life! Of course, I've got M12 stuff for smaller jobs, and down in my workshop. If I was starting over, I might go Milwaukee across the board.
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Sep 6, 2018 22:26
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sharkytm posted:Love my 3-speed Makita. LXT for life! I've got Makita's 12v line started, so I am thinking of doing the opposite and going Milwaukee for my 18+v system. I'll be happy either way, I'm sure.
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Sep 6, 2018 22:43
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Seems like a good thread to ask in: recommendations for a good looking pair of steel toe boots? I'm an engineer, so I don't need them often, occasionally working in the shop and infrequent customer visits. Don't really need anything beyond the steel toe (shock prevention, waterproofing, etc). I figure if I splurge on a nice, robust pair, it could last me until I retire, so I can justify spending a couple hundred bucks. For reference, my current pair is one I bought nearly twenty years ago for a summer job and that I've worn less than a hundred times since then (but I've been needing them a lot more often in my current job). I did get another $70 Walmart pair at some point in there, but those are the worst pair of shoes I've ever owned, so...
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Sep 8, 2018 15:30
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Red Wings are pretty boss, at least they were when I was working on ships in the late oughts. Find a store, some crusty guy will fit you and they last a good while.
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Sep 8, 2018 15:42
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Another vote for Red Wing. Find a corporate store, get fitted, and wear them around d the house for a few days to make sure they fit. I've tried on every pair of steel toe boots they make, and exactly one style fits my narrow ankles.
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Sep 8, 2018 16:48
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Dont remember the brand I typically use, but I do make a point of going ceramic toe on mine. So much lighter than steel toe. I wear mine all day though, but the price difference was minimal.
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Sep 8, 2018 17:03
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Huh. Ceramic isn't too brittle for that application?
Uthor fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Sep 8, 2018 |
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Sep 8, 2018 17:05
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Sorry not Ceramic, Composite. My bad.  Has all the certifications my old steel did. My big size 13 boot weighed about the same as my regular shoes, which since I wear them for about 9 hours a day is really nice.
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Sep 8, 2018 17:18
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sharkytm posted:Love my 3-speed Makita. LXT for life! https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XWT08Z-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless/dp/B01CA04RH4 This guy right here. I use it for 95% of what I used to drag my IR 2135TI and airline out for.
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Sep 8, 2018 17:32
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Uthor posted:Seems like a good thread to ask in: recommendations for a good looking pair of steel toe boots? I'll vouch for Red Wing also. The pair I have now I've had for 4 years and I've had them in all kinds of environments, mud, sand, ankle deep in salt-water, oil refineries, mines, you name it. They're still comfy as gently caress and they're still water-proof. Just clean them regularly and use mink-oil on the leather once in a blue moon to keep it in good condition. They're the only pair of boots I've had that I don't need to wear insoles with, also the only pair to last me longer than 2 years. A good pair should last you a lifetime since you're not going to be wrecking them out in the field.
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Sep 8, 2018 17:43
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The only reason my Red Wings stopped being waterproof was I wore through the soles. It only took 6 years.
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Sep 8, 2018 18:04
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Waterproof shoes suuuuck for an application that doesn't explicitly need it. Sweaty feet, stanky shoes. Not a good look. Avoid them unless you think you'd benefit.
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Sep 8, 2018 23:29
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Gore Tex ain’t bad. You should be alternating days anyway.
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Sep 9, 2018 00:36
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Make sure you get a boot that can be repaired. I drive UPS and walk like 10 miles a day(according to my phone) and wear through the heels. I have an unbelievable pair of Irish setters, a red wing brand that have to go back to RW to get the bottoms replaced, normal cobblers can't.
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Sep 9, 2018 02:05
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Question regarding Harbor Freight: I need a torque wrench, and I'm pretty sure I could borrow one from a local parts shop, but if I were to get one for long term, personal use, would they be an decent place to get one for cheap, or are they "AVOID AT ALL COSTS"?
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Sep 14, 2018 04:09
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There was a goon here uears ago who actually tested the wrench and came up with very high accuracy numbers and it's been recommend ever since. But be wary, when you pay big money for torque wrenches you're actually paying for NIST traceability and the ability to get it recalibrated. My Craftsman for example sneaks in the manual that it's only good for ~200 cycles and also can't be recalibrated.
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Sep 14, 2018 04:15
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um excuse me posted:There was a goon here uears ago who actually tested the wrench and came up with very high accuracy numbers and it's been recommend ever since. Hmm... according to the documentation of the HF wrenches, they can be recalibrated, so I know what I'm buying tomorrow.
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Sep 14, 2018 05:05
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Don't be too hung up about recalibration, just test it periodically. After a few years if it's out more than you like just buy a new one. A typical consumer grade torque wrench is going to have about 5-7% margin of error. Even some quality ones like CDI push 5% for their less expensive ones.
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Sep 14, 2018 05:27
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slidebite posted:Don't be too hung up about recalibration, just test it periodically. After a few years if it's out more than you like just buy a new one. A typical consumer grade torque wrench is going to have about 5-7% margin of error. Even some quality ones like CDI push 5% for their less expensive ones.
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Sep 14, 2018 05:57
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Speaking of torque wrench accuracy, anyone got a preferred method for actually doing your own testing at home? I've tested all of mine for accuracy... never.
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Sep 14, 2018 06:29
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Depending on whether you build engines or swap wheels, 5% accuracy deviation can be more than fine as long as there's reasonably repeatability. My wheel torque spec is 120 Nm, I refuse to believe that my wheels fall off at 114 and the bolts break at 126.
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Sep 14, 2018 07:01
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I mean if it's for wheels whatever, pull the trigger. I don't think you could have picked a less sensitive part of the car when it comes to torque. But I've done head bolts and camshaft bearing retainer which need stupid specific torque values. I'm not sure I'd trust HF for something like that
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Sep 14, 2018 07:08
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IOwnCalculus posted:Speaking of torque wrench accuracy, anyone got a preferred method for actually doing your own testing at home? I've tested all of mine for accuracy... never. It goes back to the above - for swapping wheels, it's definitely fine. For threading ARP bolts into a DART block, I wouldn't trust it. (At that point I'd be sending the Snap on torque wrench in to be professionally tested.)
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Sep 14, 2018 07:21
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um excuse me posted:I mean if it's for wheels whatever, pull the trigger. I don't think you could have picked a less sensitive part of the car when it comes to torque. But I've done head bolts and camshaft bearing retainer which need stupid specific torque values. I'm not sure I'd trust HF for something like that How much would be a realistic price for a torque wrench that can handle engine stuff?
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Sep 14, 2018 07:42
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Nice, that was my next question for this thread. Mazda gives a very generous range when it comes to torque values so 5-7% isn't a big deal.
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Sep 14, 2018 07:44
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I always thought that if I was going to test my Canadian Tire brand torque wrench, I'd set it at 50, put square drive in vise, and hang a 50 pound bag of sand, one foot from centre of drive (+/- a fraction of an inch of course), and gently put weight on it, see if it clicks, then adjust up or down. Then maybe a 66 pound bag of cement, two bags of sand etc.......Sounds like a pain, but one of these days I swear I'll do it.
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Sep 14, 2018 11:49
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My boss got torque wrenches from Farm and Fleet that look identical to the Harbor Freight ones. The 3/8" one broke after I torqued about 100 fasteners to 37 ft-lbs. It felt like the gear teeth sheared as there was a spot where I could turn the drive by hand with little force.
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Sep 14, 2018 12:35
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