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Mister Sinewave posted:Like, there are two kinds of people who look at a six inch tall 3D printed copy of the Thinker or whatever: yep i have noticed this 100% among my students too the grad students, mature students, veterans, etc -- people who've worked in the real world for a while, usually in jobs where they had to build things -- are all blown away that you can just push print and leave and pick up the part later, no painstaking manual labor with a mill and lathe and files and saws and such. i can do something else in the meantime and then just a little bit of sanding and it's good to go! amazing! the straight-from-high-school undergrads, some of whom have apparently never even touched a screwdriver, apparently think that a 3d printer works like a star trek replicator because they go "twelve HOURS? uugghghhh that's so looooonggggg my class is in 45 minutes now what am i going to doooooo" same deal with 3d rendering. i catch the kids sometimes bragging about a big rendering they did that took TWO HOURS omggggggg, and i'm like bitch when i was in school it was mind-blowing that you could start a render and pick up the 800x600 file 14 hours later instead of spending that time drawing it yourself with markers and pencils (and you'd still often opt to do it by hand because at least then if the computer crashed you'd still have something to hand in) angry about the kids
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Sep 6, 2018 20:32
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duffmensch posted:I wouldn’t expect it to hold up very well. I don’t have a v2 myself, but does your block have any holes like this: https://www.mpselectmini.com/howto/heater_block Ooh thanks, I was looking for that kind of diagram! I'll have a look tomorrow, much appreciated. Heating it up and scraping it up doesn't seem to do much, unfortunately.
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Sep 6, 2018 20:48
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The Pallette Mosaic 2 actually looks really good. I watched the video on tested and 3d printing nerd a week or two back and looks like a huge improvement on the first generation.
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Sep 6, 2018 20:57
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A bit pissed off at the Prusa and the 3d solutech filament right now. Something happened and the solutech filament stripped like a motherfucker and after removing it no filament would load correctly. Had to tear the head apart to get at the hotend assembly and it seemed fine. Reassemble and it now works for whatever reason. Only like an IKEA piece of furniture I now have an "extra" screw and one other part had the threads strip. Will have to track down a longer screw and a nut to fix that little problem. The small test part I was printing had an assload of retractions because I didn't think to turn it off, that's probably the cause of the initial strip even though I've never had stripping with other filaments. Had to pull it out hard and I guess that is what hosed up whatever. Regardless I'm tossing that spool, the "transparent" looks cool but between it being spooled too tight, it having a tangle, and now this it just isn't worth the trouble. 
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Sep 6, 2018 21:43
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Spray painting an object takes seconds, airbrushing takes similar amounts of time and can be done to look a fuckload better than any multi-color (Palette) print I've seen. Yes, it takes seconds if you totally discount having to have a place to paint, getting the paint out, adding another step to your production process, oh, and having only a single color. I mean, maybe the Palette sucks so bad that it isn't even worth it, but the concept is far superior to having to paint anything. The videos I've seen of the Palette 2 would take a long time to manually recreate with paint.
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Sep 6, 2018 22:02
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As a side note on painting, for those of you that do paint your models: what do you use to seal it after? I tried krylon but my models have complex surfaces and I'd prefer something I could paint on rather than trying to get a spray can's nozzle into the various nooks and crannies.
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Sep 6, 2018 23:45
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Listerine posted:As a side note on painting, for those of you that do paint your models: what do you use to seal it after? I tried krylon but my models have complex surfaces and I'd prefer something I could paint on rather than trying to get a spray can's nozzle into the various nooks and crannies. I would get used to spray priming and rotating it all around with thin layer. Brushing primer on a model where you want to preserve detail is very prone to applying too much .
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Sep 7, 2018 00:14
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Thermopyle posted:Yes, it takes seconds if you totally discount having to have a place to paint, getting the paint out, adding another step to your production process, oh, and having only a single color. Don't forget: - waiting for it to dry - having a place to put it while it dries The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Sep 7, 2018 |
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Sep 7, 2018 01:49
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I agree, the Palette 2 looks a lot better. I do wonder how much pre-video calibration they did. I'm going to restart the whole process from scratch, and see how it turns out. One of the things I want to try is using PVA as a support material. That to me is the bigger value of this kind of system. If I get this working well, I may drop the cash on the new one. $500 USD is not that bad. I wouldn't have paid for this version, though. $1000 is definitely too much.
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Sep 7, 2018 01:51
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As with all modelling top coats, spray light, many coats. Alternate directions on each coat. I normally do side to side and up/down.
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Sep 7, 2018 02:09
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You can also spray in a way that the coat falls onto the part rather than spraying directly. Just shoot a little in the air in short spurts and let it settle onto the model.
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Sep 7, 2018 03:08
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Thermopyle posted:oh, and having only a single color. Yeah, because airbrush painted objects can only be done in a single color. 
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Sep 7, 2018 11:18
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I have zero skill with painting, so it's kind of a moot point. I got pretty frustrated last night with the P+. I'm currently planning a new printer, so now I'm looking into a dual-carriage design so I can have two distinct hotends. Single nozzle multiextrusion is a huge pain and has a lot of waste. 
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Sep 7, 2018 14:26
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Yeah, because airbrush painted objects can only be done in a single color. Yeah, but those aren't done in mere seconds which is the very point I was criticizing. I mean, did you actually think I thought it wasn't possible to paint things in multiple colors?
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Sep 7, 2018 15:05
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TwystNeko posted:I agree, the Palette 2 looks a lot better. I do wonder how much pre-video calibration they did. I'm going to restart the whole process from scratch, and see how it turns out. One of the things I want to try is using PVA as a support material. That to me is the bigger value of this kind of system. If I get this working well, I may drop the cash on the new one. $500 USD is not that bad. I wouldn't have paid for this version, though. $1000 is definitely too much. I went ahead and preordered Palette 2, will let you guys know how it is whenever it comes in. I print multiple colors a lot with a pause in between (coasters and such) and having it be able to do that for me would save a lot of time.
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Sep 7, 2018 15:22
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I've had a problem where reels and reels of filament getting water logged because I absently-minded leave them out. Some abs reels, some of them still full, turned to dry spaghetti-like where the filament splits when there is any bend given. I tried the oven method but the temps I see online do dry out the filament but also warps the spools. Maybe the temps were wrong but it is fiddly. I found out a solution and I have turned several reels of spun spaghetti back into the bendy-bendy to using dehydration. Where are you going? Come back! There are these cheapy dehydrators out there that instead of metal grates to put your various jerky/fruits it uses plastic. Presto makes one that looks like this.  I leave a reel in it overnight and the reel is back to normal (after letting it cool down a bit) All moisture is gone. The mod I had to do was to buy two extra trays for 20 dollars for the pair and go all around the inner rim and cut out the mesh leaving the outer air duct/wall intact because you need to create the pressure difference to move the air out constantly. I found putting an extra normal trap above and below the reel to move the most air and let the hot air spread more. I did some strawberries after I did a reel and I tasted no acrid smells like abs/nylon usually does. I just water rinsed the trays. The other benefit I found was the peace of mind of not having to worry about filament busting out in flames. If things were set on fire in these dehydrators they certain would not be called dehydrators heh.
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Sep 7, 2018 15:55
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TwystNeko posted:I have zero skill with painting, so it's kind of a moot point. LOL if you think dual nozzles won't be even worse. The problems those present are the reason so much work has gone into single-nozzle designs.
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Sep 7, 2018 15:59
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Thermopyle posted:Yeah, but those aren't done in mere seconds which is the very point I was criticizing. No, but I can pretty well guarantee you that someone painting an object in multiple colors can paint it faster than current hobby-level printers can do it while achieving high-quality results.
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Sep 7, 2018 16:01
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EVIL Gibson posted:I've had a problem where reels and reels of filament getting water logged because I absently-minded leave them out. Some abs reels, some of them still full, turned to dry spaghetti-like where the filament splits when there is any bend given.
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Sep 7, 2018 16:04
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bring back old gbs posted:2 of my friends recently gor food dehydrators for their filaments, really works but its not a quick process. Apparently theres a "filament dryer" on amazon for $100 but then theres a $50 "food dehydrator" using literally the exact same product with a different label so he bought the food one. For sure, not a quick process at all but you always get good results from it and I feel good enough to leaving it running throughout the night since it just blows warm air. Not raging hair dryer warm, but sauna warm.
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Sep 7, 2018 16:27
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I've seen some pretty well designed dual nozzle systems. Possibly the simplest design I've seen uses just magnets and a couple sleds. The belt gripping part has a big beefy neodymium magnet on it, and there are carriages on either side of the x axis with opposing polarity. The only issues I see are needing to power 2 hotends and extruders. Ramps can do that, just needs a little breakout for the fans. Then it's just levelling the hotends, which can be accounted for in the design. And most setups I see use wipers to keep the nozzles from oozing. It's basically a solved issue.
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Sep 7, 2018 16:45
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Okay, good luck!
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Sep 7, 2018 16:59
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Is there some tool or utility out there that I can apply to my models to remove extraneous sections of the model to make it lighter? I wanted to remove excess material but still keep it strong, like this person did with their FT Mini frame:  Is that something you do in OpenSCAD or is there a function in tinkercad?
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Sep 7, 2018 19:18
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johnnyonetime posted:Is there some tool or utility out there that I can apply to my models to remove extraneous sections of the model to make it lighter? Never done it but you probably want to check out meshmixer
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Sep 7, 2018 19:22
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TBH you're probably better off printing with less infill and/or layers. Putting small holes in like that can even backfire because you get a bunch of perimeters where there used to be infill.
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Sep 7, 2018 19:29
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johnnyonetime posted:Is there some tool or utility out there that I can apply to my models to remove extraneous sections of the model to make it lighter? This isn't just removing materials, so I'm sure there's other ways to do stuff like this, but a cool one is using topology optimization in Fusion 360. Stefan of CNC Kitchen did a video about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAGFkWkqocI
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Sep 7, 2018 19:37
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Rexxed posted:This isn't just removing materials, so I'm sure there's other ways to do stuff like this, but a cool one is using topology optimization in Fusion 360. Stefan of CNC Kitchen did a video about it: Wow that's pretty fancy. Definitely the correct way to do what I was asking. I found a much easier solution for my needs and I thought I'd share it. There's a "honeycomb grid" function for Tinkercad that you can drop in your shape generator. Just copy and paste from this page here: https://api.tinkercad.com/libraries/foFAfjuDaPy/0/docs/index.html It uses javascript and math to create the honeycomb for you  Then you can generate a grid for the size you're looking for and turn it into a hole. Pretty quick and painless!
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Sep 7, 2018 20:09
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johnnyonetime posted:Wow that's pretty fancy. Definitely the correct way to do what I was asking. I found a much easier solution for my needs and I thought I'd share it. There's a "honeycomb grid" function for Tinkercad that you can drop in your shape generator. Just copy and paste from this page here: Rexxed posted:This isn't just removing materials, so I'm sure there's other ways to do stuff like this, but a cool one is using topology optimization in Fusion 360. Stefan of CNC Kitchen did a video about it: BMan posted:TBH you're probably better off printing with less infill and/or layers. Putting small holes in like that can even backfire because you get a bunch of perimeters where there used to be infill.
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Sep 7, 2018 20:24
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I've never understood the "speed holes" mentality. The wall would have to be pretty thin and the hole would have to be very large to save any time or weight, unless you're doing something weird. Like, "8 top/bottom layers and 1 vertical wall" or something. Topology optimization is neat as hell though
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Sep 7, 2018 20:54
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Tinkercad has some pretty inventive features. The honeycomb grid thing is neat, their Lego-ification is cool as well. I always missed the intuitive way their Align tool worked, too.
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Sep 7, 2018 21:06
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Mister Sinewave posted:Lego-ification You mean "shell"ing?
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Sep 7, 2018 21:09
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I believe it's actually called brick mode. It'll render your model in (Lego) bricks, it's pretty neat.
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Sep 7, 2018 21:13
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Spray painting an object takes seconds, airbrushing takes similar amounts of time Quoting for posterity. ClassH posted:The Pallette Mosaic 2 actually looks really good. I watched the video on tested and 3d printing nerd a week or two back and looks like a huge improvement on the first generation. Definately. But compare it to the Prusa MMU and you can see why they’ve had to drop the price so much. The ‘goal’ of a voxel painting tool to make solid STLs multicolour and and a purge tower free multi-colour print are still a ways off. Once that’s solved I expect it to be more attractive. Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Sep 7, 2018 |
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Sep 7, 2018 21:23
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Quoting for posterity. So? At the current hobbyist level, you will never have a multicolor FDM print that looks half as good as even a cursory painted/airbrushed print. quote:Definately. But compare it to the Prusa MMU and you can see why they’ve had to drop the price so much. The ‘goal’ of a voxel painting tool to make solid STLs multicolour and and a purge tower free multi-colour print are still a ways off. Once that’s solved I expect it to be more attractive. It is solved at the not-hobbyist level (high end SLS printers with multicolor ink systems that color the material as it is printed), the problem is copying the hardware/software setup to do it at a low enough price point for hobbyists. Somebody was attempting to adapt full-color STL files for FDM slicing, but that project either died in 2014 for lack of funding or was successfully C&D-ed by whatever company held the licensing for it.
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Sep 8, 2018 04:10
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What’s even the argument going on here? That multimaterial/multicolor printing is dumb because paint exists? I haven’t been keeping track.
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Sep 8, 2018 05:42
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Show me an SLS printer that prints in colour and I'll stop thinking your a massive contrarian idiot.
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Sep 8, 2018 07:34
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But don’t you understand multi-colour miniature scale airbrushing only takes seconds?
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Sep 8, 2018 09:39
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Megabound posted:Show me an SLS printer that prints in colour and I'll stop thinking your a massive contrarian idiot. Google HP JetFusion for just one of them, full color STL file formats and printers that support printing them have been around at the industrial level for decades. Stratasys Polyjets (J750 is the current model, IIRC), 3DSystems Projet CJP printers, etc. I know everybody likes to pretend that the reprap movement has done things that the actual industrial 3d printing industry couldn't do, but thats just hobbyist marketing bullshit. Kind of like when Glowforge does their poo poo about pretending their laser is somehow a unique or new design. The only barrier to people having full-color 3d printing at the hobbyist level is that the 3d printers that can actually do it use super-expensive technology to do it. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 12:02 on Sep 8, 2018 |
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Sep 8, 2018 11:58
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Sagebrush posted:yep i have noticed this 100% among my students too As a Vet in school, can confirm. There is as reason I am thankful for technology.That reason is that it doesn't make me do things the hard way anymore.
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Sep 9, 2018 03:13
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To add on to this rapid production chat. I got a request from a family member to make them a bird figure for the house. I got the text at around 8 in the morning. Downloaded the STL hosed with some slicer settings Pressed print. Went and saw a movie with Miss Jestery (The Meg, good flick weirdly Chinese and preachy  )Came home and nicked off the stringing with an exacting knife and sanded it. Stained and sanded it this morning and was able to varnish and finish it in under 48 hours  Like, even as an enabling technology, it speeds the process up so much. How else could I make that as good as it is with any other method, at all, let alone in under 48 hours (probably closer to 10 hours of work including print time)
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Sep 9, 2018 03:32
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