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Anyone know exactly what this is covering the somewhat out of place brickwork on my house? I'm interested in seeing what it would take to remove it and restore the brick.  Also: Hello!
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Sep 6, 2018 23:00
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mutata posted:Anyone know exactly what this is covering the somewhat out of place brickwork on my house? I'm interested in seeing what it would take to remove it and restore the brick. Some sort of lovely textured plaster, maybe? Have a go chipping a little off in an inconspicuous area, see if it'll come off easy. If not, I guess angle grinder, machine chisel, or other abrasive solution depending on what "restored" means to you.
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Sep 7, 2018 00:17
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Thanks! I'll try chipping. Could it be some form of whitewash or limewash glaze maybe? Maybe I should just whitewash over it again and go for the faint white brick. I don't really think it looks particularly good as it is and it locks any accent colors we want to do outside to the purple families.
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Sep 7, 2018 01:13
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them bricks got stonerized
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Sep 7, 2018 01:16
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mutata posted:Thanks! I'll try chipping. Could it be some form of whitewash or limewash glaze maybe? I ain't got no idea, honestly, but from the photos it looks like there's some kinda-thick layers of it and texturing, so I'm not sure covering it over would help much.
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Sep 7, 2018 08:45
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mutata posted:Thanks! I'll try chipping. Could it be some form of whitewash or limewash glaze maybe? I was going to say it looks kinda like German Smear, but that treatment usually goes over the mortar too. And it's nearly impossible to remove. Since the mortar is so clean on your house, I'm wondering if that's just how the bricks came, like if the plaster look is intentional and baked into the brick to make it look vintage or something (it really does look like imitation reclaimed brick - I'd know because my dad used reclaimed century-old factory bricks build the chimneys at my parents' house and lots of them have that sort of faded buildup on them. To test, you might try chipping or even sand blasting an area of bricks in a less visible spot.
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Sep 7, 2018 13:44
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Queen Victorian posted:I was going to say it looks kinda like German Smear, but that treatment usually goes over the mortar too. And it's nearly impossible to remove. Since the mortar is so clean on your house, I'm wondering if that's just how the bricks came, like if the plaster look is intentional and baked into the brick to make it look vintage or something (it really does look like imitation reclaimed brick - I'd know because my dad used reclaimed century-old factory bricks build the chimneys at my parents' house and lots of them have that sort of faded buildup on them. To test, you might try chipping or even sand blasting an area of bricks in a less visible spot. From the way the patches don't line up and how there is nothing on the mortar, they definitely look kinda like reclaimed brick or that it is intentional. You could also try wire brushing too - though it is likely gonna be quicker and less painful to just paint over them. Tomarse fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Sep 7, 2018 |
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Sep 7, 2018 13:53
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Awesome, thanks, everyone! That at least gives me some ideas to try. lol faux reclaimed brick, that is something that would exist isn't it.
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Sep 7, 2018 16:05
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Today I learned what German Smear was. All my life when I saw that I always just thought it was white paint that had just invariably eroded over time.
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Sep 7, 2018 19:24
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Just make sure you get a german smear at least once a year
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Sep 7, 2018 19:42
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Jaded Burnout posted:Just make sure you get a german smear at least once a year Or get the vaccine for the Hessian Papilloma Virus.
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Sep 7, 2018 19:53
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tetrapyloctomy posted:Or get the vaccine for the Hessian Papilloma Virus. I'm assuming you can get that done at Kaiser Permanente, right?
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Sep 7, 2018 21:15
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Magnus Praeda posted:I'm assuming you can get that done at Kaiser Permanente, right? Yeah, but they're way overbooked and if you're late they might Nazi you.
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Sep 7, 2018 21:23
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hitler
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Sep 7, 2018 21:26
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I cleared out the gutters on the garage today and fitted some basic cheap gutter guards, if they work a drat I'll do the house gutters next year, anytging I can do to avoid going up a ladder more than necessary. I cleared a bucket full of seeds and crap out of about 30 feet, they were nearly completely blocked. gently caress you sycamores.
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Sep 9, 2018 22:56
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If you had two roof leaks that had caused rotting drywall (internally above ceiling) and water was entering in both areas at the flashing, would you try to make a claim on the roof? Assume your deductible is 5900 and that your insurance company wants a quote that at least meets or exceed said deductible. Also assume that you've gotten a quote for just one leak way back that was nearly $5000 before drywall was in the equation, and that you had a guy come fix the flashing before and hadn't had a leak in that area since the flashing was redone. Or would you go the possibly cheaper route and have a guy just come fix the flashing and drywall?
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Sep 10, 2018 17:43
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I’d like to air seal and insulate my whole house fan. Right now it’s just the kind of fan with metal louvres that don’t really seal. It has 24” plywood walls built around the perimeter from when we had insulation blown in. I’m thinking about reinforcing those walls with a 2x2 around the top edge, and putting a ring of foam weather stripping around the top of that. Then I’d top it with two hinged barn doors made of 1/4” Luan and XPS foam board. I feel like the force of the fan should be enough to pop those doors up when the fan runs, and if I put on small chain tethers to stop them from flipping completely open, they should fall back shut. Any critiques on this plan? My attic access hole is only 12”x18” so all materials have to fit through that.
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Sep 12, 2018 00:04
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eddiewalker posted:I’d like to air seal and insulate my whole house fan. Right now it’s just the kind of fan with metal louvres that don’t really seal. the usual strategy for whole house fans is to just build a big box that sits over the whole opening and seals to the attic floor with some weatherstripping and weight on top. You'd just take it off in fan season and then put it back as part of summerizing/winterizing. Your plan seems fine in theory, but I'm not sure they'd seal well enough if they're light enough to be blown open.
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Sep 12, 2018 00:10
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Going into my attic sucks. Tiny access hole right at the edge, so it’s a real slither not to get cut up on roofing nails, then a hunt for joists to walk across under the r50. I’m pretty motivated to make it “automatic,” but I guess if the fan can’t push the doors open, I could hang rope and pulleys I could raise and lower from the access hole.
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Sep 12, 2018 00:17
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eddiewalker posted:Going into my attic sucks. Tiny access hole right at the edge, so it’s a real slither not to get cut up on roofing nails, then a hunt for joists to walk across under the r50. alternatively, make them light, but use the rope to be able to pull them tight and tied down when you're not in fan season.
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Sep 12, 2018 00:27
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eddiewalker posted:Going into my attic sucks. Tiny access hole right at the edge, so it’s a real slither not to get cut up on roofing nails, then a hunt for joists to walk across under the r50. Motivated enough to replace the entire thing? https://www.tamtech.com/HV1600-with-R38-Self-Sealing-Doors_p_92.html
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Sep 12, 2018 01:59
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devicenull posted:Motivated enough to replace the entire thing? https://www.tamtech.com/HV1600-with-R38-Self-Sealing-Doors_p_92.html I’ll probably dick around with a $50 hack for a while first. Seems like I’d have to significantly thin out my cellulose around that fan to give the doors room to open.
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Sep 12, 2018 02:11
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Also worth thinking about the loss of efficiency/flow you're going to have when the fan's holding open some doors during operation.
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Sep 12, 2018 11:16
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Jaded Burnout posted:Also worth thinking about the loss of efficiency/flow you're going to have when the fan's holding open some doors during operation. It’s a thought, but it’s not really a delicately-balanced system. We just run it on sporadic fall/spring nights to trap a little cool outside air, or when a mishap smokes up the kitchen.
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Sep 13, 2018 00:12
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Roofers put insulation and plasterboard up in my garage: I'm a bit annoyed, but I don't know if I have grounds to be? The only germane bit of backstory is the ties that span the garage are bowed, and I've had literally four different chippys tell me that's perfectly fine. - They told me they would box in the ties square, with the lowest point (the middle) being the point at which the straight edge would lie. They have just gone up against the tie itself, their justification was 'when you get a plasterer they'll make it straight when they plaster it'. I had told them I was thinking about plastering, but had not decided - it seems a bit much to presume some random extra work I may or may not get done will make their work good. - I told them to plasterboard everything, and the have left cutouts where the rafters join the ties, presumably because the plasterboard would protrude into the room further at the joint. What am I meant to do with those areas? - They told me that would fit scrim tape over all the joins. Technically there are no joins in the plasterboard, but there are about a million corners and they are pretty raggedy - easily 3/8" in some places. Realistically I think they can hid behind the ambiguity, and it's not terrible work - but it's certainly not just a case of running jointing compound across a few joins. Am I making a mountain out of a molehill?
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Sep 13, 2018 19:24
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Southern Heel posted:their justification was 'when you get a plasterer they'll make it straight when they plaster it' ??? That is some bullshit, dogg. It'll at the very least make it harder for the plasterer and more expensive for you. Also you've gotta tape all the concave and bead all the convex joins. Southern Heel posted:the have left cutouts where the rafters join the ties, presumably because the plasterboard would protrude into the room further at the joint. What am I meant to do with those areas? Box them in with plasterboard, like they were supposed to, or have the plasterer plaster up to it and leave it exposed. IMO never get someone to do the boarding who isn't also doing the plastering, because they won't give a poo poo if it'll make the next step harder. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Sep 13, 2018 |
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Sep 13, 2018 19:41
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Yes, I was assuming that I would be able to run jointing compound over the joins and be done - and this is alot more work than that. Do you think it would be fair to withhold payment until they finish the boxing in around the ties/joist connection one way or another and either: - the ties are re-boxed in squarely with respect to the floor/etc. - they agree and at-cost work for putting in tape/compound on what's there (I was assuming something like this: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Drywall-Corner-Bead-Tape-50mm-x-30m/p/110236 on the joins)
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Sep 13, 2018 19:56
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Southern Heel posted:Yes, I was assuming that I would be able to run jointing compound over the joins and be done - and this is alot more work than that. If that's what they agreed to, then yes. Or withhold the amount you think it'll cost you extra. If you're going to get a plasterer perhaps you could get them to quote you both ways and see if there actually is a significant difference. I'd not seen that bead tape before but it looks like the right tool for the job. Technically you wouldn't need it on internal corners (I've seen this stuff used), but either way. Personally I'd just do the tape myself and (if they'd agreed to provide it originally) subtract the cost of materials.
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Sep 13, 2018 21:33
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Thanks bud  Is that tape thin enough that I can just use compound over it and sand it down then paint, or does it imply skimming the whole surface to raise it above the level of the tape? The bow in those ties is only about 3" across 20' so that should be fine for any tape (even that metal tape) to flex, right?
Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 09:04 on Sep 14, 2018 |
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Sep 14, 2018 08:51
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Southern Heel posted:Is that tape thin enough that I can just use compound over it and sand it down then paint, or does it imply skimming the whole surface to raise it above the level of the tape? The fibreglass tape is intended to be fully skimmed over. I'm not sure about the compound stuff, but you would at least have to fill & cover the tape and then feather it down to the level of the board. Southern Heel posted:The bow in those ties is only about 3" across 20' so that should be fine for any tape (even that metal tape) to flex, right? That I don't know. What sort of flexing are you expecting? It's not the tape but the stuff you put on the tape that's the inflexible bit.
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Sep 14, 2018 11:26
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Jaded Burnout posted:The fibreglass tape is intended to be fully skimmed over. I'm not sure about the compound stuff, but you would at least have to fill & cover the tape and then feather it down to the level of the board. So for corners I need to replace the scrim tape with paper tape, and for butt joints I'm just kinda screwed?
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Sep 14, 2018 14:06
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Southern Heel posted:So for corners I need to replace the scrim tape with paper tape, and for butt joints I'm just kinda screwed? I dunno really, sorry, I've only seen what's done with normal skim.
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Sep 14, 2018 14:12
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Thanks bud, I really appreciate the help either way. This is what it looks like now, after I fitted some of those low-profile LED panels: 
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Sep 14, 2018 14:40
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it looks p nice!!!!!
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Sep 14, 2018 15:27
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So if getting a quote from a roofer is like pulling teeth, that's probably a bad sign right? Other roofers got back to me within 2 days, and this other one has taken multiple calls and still nothing. It's a shame cause I like the guy and he came on a recommendation, but delaying multiple times just on the quote makes me super wary. In the meantime another company not only gave me an immediate quote, but called me back to see if I had any questions on it.
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Sep 14, 2018 22:17
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leftist heap posted:So if getting a quote from a roofer is like pulling teeth, that's probably a bad sign right? Other roofers got back to me within 2 days, and this other one has taken multiple calls and still nothing. It's a shame cause I like the guy and he came on a recommendation, but delaying multiple times just on the quote makes me super wary. In the meantime another company not only gave me an immediate quote, but called me back to see if I had any questions on it. Yes
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Sep 14, 2018 22:32
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leftist heap posted:So if getting a quote from a roofer is like pulling teeth, that's probably a bad sign right? Other roofers got back to me within 2 days, and this other one has taken multiple calls and still nothing. It's a shame cause I like the guy and he came on a recommendation, but delaying multiple times just on the quote makes me super wary. In the meantime another company not only gave me an immediate quote, but called me back to see if I had any questions on it. Hard to say, sometimes excellent workers are crap at running the customer service side of business, or the best workers can get super busy and just don't have time and don't care about losing a job.
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Sep 14, 2018 22:35
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Almost every trade I've worked with has "the wife" "do the books" which usually means they see all admin as secondary. I've also seen trades ghost on a quote because they don't really want it. Heck, I've done it, even.
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Sep 14, 2018 23:00
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Jaded Burnout posted:I've also seen trades ghost on a quote because they don't really want it. Heck, I've done it, even. Just had that happen to me. Like, just tell me you can’t take the job. Now I’m going to tell everyone they suck and won’t respond to messages.
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Sep 14, 2018 23:05
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Fallom posted:Just had that happen to me. Like, just tell me you can’t take the job. Now I’m going to tell everyone they suck and won’t respond to messages. Another more common one is quoting way above normal rates because they don't want it. I've had a plastering job go from two independent quotes of £1300 to one quote of £340 by finding out what was the annoying part and doing it myself.
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Sep 14, 2018 23:17
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