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Nitrox posted:I actually do see loads of weird poo poo on the road, but somehow haven't figured out how to use the quick save function on my camera. Have a dude taking a beating from a ladyfriend. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ue24ic6RdGc If it has the crash detection, you can just slap the camera to jar it into saving the file.
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Sep 10, 2018 15:41
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Speaking of weird poo poo, I did not have my dashcam in the day I was driving up I-95 and saw a car pulled over to the side of the freeway. As I came up on it, the door open, a man stepped one foot out, and an amazing parabolic arc of vomit shot out of his mouth. My biggest dashcam regret.
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Sep 11, 2018 01:42
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3j7Ypfs7RAM It's a 'Best of'! In Russia they have dashcams because everyone is an insurance scammer. In Australia it's because we know everyone on the road is a drongo.
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Sep 12, 2018 02:38
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Cartoon posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3j7Ypfs7RAM Tradies Utes are the true enemy on the roads
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Sep 12, 2018 07:09
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IAmKale posted:Are fuse taps sincerely the best way to power dash cams like this Thinkware F800 I picked up for my Mazda3? I'm new to dash cams and car electrical systems in general and so I was talked out of using them while seeking some hard-wiring advice from my dad. He insists my car should have "bodybuilder power points" just like the fleet trucks he used to repair and that I should seek those out as power sources instead of overloading fuse plugs. I checked the current draw for my Mobius (only relevant in that it has no screen) and a cheap Amazon 12V-5V adapter made for hardwiring car accessories with a bench power supply at 12V and a cheapie ammeter and it was ~0.2A on the 12V side. Likely you can put a 1A fuse in it for almost any single dash camera. .5A was the smallest I could find in blade fuses, but the rear camera has exactly a .2A fuse and hasn't ever blown one. I was also able to look up what each circuit was rated for on my VW versus the fuse in it so I didn't melt part of the fusebox like whoever originally owned my Prelude. There were circuits rated at 30A with 15A fuses on their loads but of course I went with the accessory jack fuse. The closest thing to those bodybuilder type connections in my car is a set of terminals distributing power to the various fuse sub-boxes but then you've got to run through the firewall and gently caress doing that for less than 1A.
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Sep 12, 2018 15:34
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Major Isoor posted:hahaha I love how the other driver just keeps trying to push/shoulder through, after hitting you. And then giving you those wild gestures, afterwards! he was a little upset at first but he was pretty calm once we actually parked and started to sort things out. i was a little worried when his only ID was a foreign passport, but he was insured and the policy was current so it paid for everything.
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Sep 12, 2018 16:15
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fknlo posted:I scratched the Exige as a possible fun car because of the clamshells. this was my third front clam. as long as you are insured it will get repaired. the first two times my car was hit by someone while parked. i just took it into the body shop this week to get an estimate for having a scratch on the rear left corner re-painted and, while I was sitting in the parking lot, a guy who worked at the shop who was moving around cars hit my car from behind and broke both clams by pushing the front of my car into another car (I hadn't put the parking brake on yet and I was pretty easy to move). so I guess now it's gonna get a 4th front clam and a 2nd rear clam. it's a really fun car but it's not easy to fix. the lead time on parts is usually "we only do one run of <part> a year and we can ship it to you in six months" so right now I am just driving it around with both clams busted waiting for parts to arrive over the next couple months. I think I will probably take the current clams and try to get a fiberglass guy to repair them, then just put them in storage. I did the math and I can pay someone to $2000 to repair them, then keep them in storage for 6 years and that'd be cheaper than buying a new one from lotus.
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Sep 12, 2018 16:24
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Oddhair posted:I checked the current draw for my Mobius (only relevant in that it has no screen) and a cheap Amazon 12V-5V adapter made for hardwiring car accessories with a bench power supply at 12V and a cheapie ammeter and it was ~0.2A on the 12V side. Likely you can put a 1A fuse in it for almost any single dash camera. .5A was the smallest I could find in blade fuses, but the rear camera has exactly a .2A fuse and hasn't ever blown one. I was also able to look up what each circuit was rated for on my VW versus the fuse in it so I didn't melt part of the fusebox like whoever originally owned my Prelude. There were circuits rated at 30A with 15A fuses on their loads but of course I went with the accessory jack fuse. The closest thing to those bodybuilder type connections in my car is a set of terminals distributing power to the various fuse sub-boxes but then you've got to run through the firewall and gently caress doing that for less than 1A. Based on all this feedback, I figure there's zero issue to try and do anything but use the taps. I picked up some 5A fuses anyway and won't sweat this anymore.
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Sep 12, 2018 19:23
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IAmKale posted:Thanks for going through all that to provide some numbers for context. After I initially posted I managed to find a wattage rating for the dual-camera Thinkware setup. At 4.2W max draw, the amperage came out to something similar, around 0.35A lol. Yeah it's fine, my dimming rear-view mirror uses wire taps, straight from Mazda themselves.
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Sep 12, 2018 19:40
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Any front/rear dashcam recommendations for a classic convertible? I want it to be a semi-permanent install, so I don't have to worry about it getting stolen, and I'd really prefer to not replace the rearview mirror, since it's a "rare" mirror with map lights. The top stays down as often as the weather will let me, and both the hard/soft tops are a little leaky, so waterproofing would be a huge bonus
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Sep 12, 2018 20:22
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I wonder if something set up for a motorcycle would be more up your alley - was curious myself, and this is what popped up on my 1st search http://a.co/d/b27bMkw Not sure how long the cables would be, but you might pop one camera on the dashboard and another on the back bumper since you won't have any rear glass for a suction mount.
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Sep 12, 2018 21:34
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NoWake posted:I wonder if something set up for a motorcycle would be more up your alley - was curious myself, and this is what popped up on my 1st search That's exactly what I had in mind! I didn't even think to look at motorcycle cams. The cables look like they might be long enough too
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Sep 12, 2018 22:01
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I've been looking at getting a new (used) car, but almost everything I see has always-on 12V power plugs and I don't want my dashcam to run 24/7 when the car is turned off and I forget to manually turn it on/off. This might be more a car audio question, but has anyone had any experience with using the USB port on aftermarket radios to power a dash cam (presumably, they'd shut off when the car was stopped.) I think I can get around the USB/Dashcam having the problem of possibly treating the dashcam as a media storage device if I used a 'power only/no-data' USB cable.
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Sep 14, 2018 07:38
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JediTalentAgent posted:I've been looking at getting a new (used) car, but almost everything I see has always-on 12V power plugs and I don't want my dashcam to run 24/7 when the car is turned off and I forget to manually turn it on/off. sharkytm posted:Just put an Add-A-Fuse in on an ignition-switched fuse, and run the wire. It's relatively easy, safe, and removable.
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Sep 14, 2018 17:18
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JediTalentAgent posted:I've been looking at getting a new (used) car, but almost everything I see has always-on 12V power plugs and I don't want my dashcam to run 24/7 when the car is turned off and I forget to manually turn it on/off. You don’t want it hard wired? My cam is hard wired to an always-on connection because I do want it to run when the car is off (I just have to remember to turn it off when I pull into the garage), but my Valentine One is wired into a switched power source so it shuts off when the car does.
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Sep 15, 2018 00:28
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I'm only ever really interested in recording while I'm driving and I really didn't want to mess around with doing anything with the fuse stuff. I figured a radio with a phone charging capable USB port would be a possible solution since I was going to probably replace the radio, eventually, with something cheap but with some more features. But if I'm eventually going to end up putting in a good enough radio, I should want constant recording, too. It's like the Gift of the Magi or something.
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Sep 15, 2018 06:15
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If you're replacing the radio, adding a dash cam into an on-only circuit is trivial (twist the power wire into the radio power wire when you install the radio), and even easier again if you use a fuse tap/add a circuit.
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Sep 15, 2018 06:32
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Laserface posted:(twist the power wire into the radio power wire when you install the radio), Please don't, instead try the novel idea of making a safe secure connection by any of a dozen other methods instead?
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Sep 15, 2018 08:05
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cakesmith handyman posted:Please don't, instead try the novel idea of making a safe secure connection by any of a dozen other methods instead? I solder and heat shrink. OP is somehow simultaneously against using a fuse tap but also totally OK installing an aftermarket radio.
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Sep 15, 2018 13:28
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9J0BIb1N06g This is not the first time I've seen people completely blow the light here. The guy seemed legitimately confused about what happened when I drove by. It appears my Mobius has forgotten what time it is again.
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Sep 15, 2018 15:35
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I'm also amused by the white SUV trying to crowd out the inside right turn lane. 3 way intersections and double right turn lanes are a grand mystery.
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Sep 15, 2018 18:02
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devicenull posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9J0BIb1N06g This is the most boring dash cam video I have ever watched.
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Sep 15, 2018 21:23
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You must’ve missed the one I posted of a mustang blocking an intersection for a complete cycle. That one was boring.
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Sep 15, 2018 21:58
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You can usually tell when someone in this thread is from a small town because they post videos like "oh wow, look at this moron on the road!!" and it's something that you see twenty times on any given trip in a big city, like that crappy merge In San Francisco people probably wouldn't even honk at that
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Sep 15, 2018 22:02
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Ya, living in a shithole really desensitized me to bad driving. Unless I think I'm gonna die, I don't usually bother hitting the horn. Especially like the above video where the driver didn't even have to brake or make an evasive move. The one that really pisses me off, however, is people on their loving phones loving sitting at green loving lights. For whatever reason, that one makes me irrationally angry.
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Sep 16, 2018 03:24
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You guys will love my montage of people just stopped in merge lanes for no reason whatsoever while I impotently scream at them.
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Sep 16, 2018 04:51
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In houston i have seen on multiple occasions people trying to BACK UP the off ramp and get back on I-10 after taking the wrong exit. Houston is a special place.
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Sep 16, 2018 05:25
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chrisgt posted:Ya, living in a shithole really desensitized me to bad driving. Unless I think I'm gonna die, I don't usually bother hitting the horn. Especially like the above video where the driver didn't even have to brake or make an evasive move. On the opposite end of the spectrum, driving through extremely wealthy areas where people in performance/luxury cars drive 10 under the limit and pretend that they are the only person on the road really keeps your eyes on your mirrors and both hands firmly on the wheel. Those people don't even register car horns, and you never know when a Porsche Carrera will drop to 5mph for an unsignaled right turn across 2 lanes on a 50mph road
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Sep 16, 2018 06:01
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The thing that makes me the most irrationally angry is when, as I'm changing lanes, I put on my turn signal, wait for an opening, check my blind spot, slide over into the space, and get immediately honked at by the person I moved in front of because they weren't paying any attention to the road or my signal and they think I cut them off. Or alternately they saw the signal just fine, and were accelerating to try it and close the gap specifically so I can't take it. Either way, the sheer audacity of the pricks who do that just drives me insane It's nearly always someone in a BMW or Lexus SUV, for some reason
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Sep 16, 2018 06:46
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C.H.O.M.E. posted:In houston i have seen on multiple occasions people trying to BACK UP the off ramp and get back on I-10 after taking the wrong exit. Ok this is pretty stupid regardless, but don't you guys have frontage roads basically everywhere alongside I-10 where someone who got off at the wrong one could just go a block or two and get right back on?
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Sep 16, 2018 07:00
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Sagebrush posted:The thing that makes me the most irrationally angry is when, as I'm changing lanes, I put on my turn signal, wait for an opening, check my blind spot, slide over into the space, and get immediately honked at by the person I moved in front of because they weren't paying any attention to the road or my signal and they think I cut them off. Or alternately they saw the signal just fine, and were accelerating to try it and close the gap specifically so I can't take it. Either way, the sheer audacity of the pricks who do that just drives me insane Part of why I got a rear camera system. They don't do the accelerate to not let you merge / change lanes too much here in Seattle but it does happen.
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Sep 16, 2018 07:14
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The Door Frame posted:On the opposite end of the spectrum, driving through extremely wealthy areas where people in performance/luxury cars drive 10 under the limit and pretend that they are the only person on the road really keeps your eyes on your mirrors and both hands firmly on the wheel. Those people don't even register car horns, and you never know when a Porsche Carrera will drop to 5mph for an unsignaled right turn across 2 lanes on a 50mph road NaplesFlorida.mp4 OntarioPlates.jpg
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Sep 16, 2018 11:50
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Sagebrush posted:The thing that makes me the most irrationally angry is when, as I'm changing lanes, I put on my turn signal, wait for an opening, check my blind spot, slide over into the space, and get immediately honked at by the person I moved in front of because they weren't paying any attention to the road or my signal and they think I cut them off. Or alternately they saw the signal just fine, and were accelerating to try it and close the gap specifically so I can't take it. Either way, the sheer audacity of the pricks who do that just drives me insane Sounds like driving in Massachusetts. The trick is to start merging, THEN turn on your blinker (if you even bother at all). Then they can't do that.
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Sep 16, 2018 13:06
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Same for freeway traffic in AZ. Wait for a gap, then signal and go for it at the same time. Yet on surface streets people will literally stop to let you in.
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Sep 16, 2018 16:37
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wolrah posted:Ok this is pretty stupid regardless, but don't you guys have frontage roads basically everywhere alongside I-10 where someone who got off at the wrong one could just go a block or two and get right back on? Usually you have to stop at 1 light max before you could get back on. This was I-10 around Katy.
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Sep 16, 2018 21:20
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I finally made some progress on my dashcam install, but unfortunately I ran into a fuse tap issue. I need to install two fuse taps, one that's always on and another that receives power when the car is on. I've tapped one that's always on, but have run into an issue adding the other one. For reference, here's the interior fuse box of my Mazda3:  I want to tap 11, which is currently empty and marked "Accessory sockets", but power on that terminal comes in on the right rail. This would mean I'd have to install the fuse tap upside down, so that the pigtail goes to the left. Unfortunately that lower part of the fuse box (9-11) is butted up against the railing the fuse box is mounted to. The fuse tap pigtail can't bend enough to accommodate it. What are my options?
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Sep 16, 2018 22:04
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That can't be the only switched-hot circuit in that box, can it? Are any of the other positions blocked by the mount?
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Sep 16, 2018 22:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:That can't be the only switched-hot circuit in that box, can it? Are any of the other positions blocked by the mount? Is it a bad idea to tap into 20A or 25A fuses for things like seat warmers and driver side seat adjustment? If I found one switched-hot in that upper half, I think it’d be one of the higher-amperage terminals.
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Sep 17, 2018 00:00
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My tap came with two fuse slots, one for the original load and one for the added load, and they were pretty clear it's important to check whether you had it in backwards as it could leave your added load always on as long as one of the two fuses was installed and not blown. It's not typical I don't believe for the hot side to flop though I am no expert. If you pull the fuse and check between the right terminal and body ground do you find ~12V? If you were testing with one fuse installed then it may in fact be that they're flopped/your tap was "backwards" but it's hard to describe.
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Sep 17, 2018 19:42
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IAmKale posted:That’s the problem, from what I can tell the fuse box seems to be divided into always-hot on top, up until 7 or 8, and the bottom three or four are switched-hot. 12 is a 7.5A for airbags, 13-15 aren’t available as terminals. No, as long as you install the tap the correct direction, it doesn't matter what the original circuit was rated for. The supply side of the fuse (the one connected upstream to the switched +12V) is going to be a big bus bar through the whole fuse block. The wiring feeding whatever device you're talking about (i.e. seatwarmer) doesn't see any extra load. On top of that, a dashcam is negligible load as far as a car is concerned. Oddhair posted:My tap came with two fuse slots, one for the original load and one for the added load, and they were pretty clear it's important to check whether you had it in backwards as it could leave your added load always on as long as one of the two fuses was installed and not blown. It's not typical I don't believe for the hot side to flop though I am no expert. If you pull the fuse and check between the right terminal and body ground do you find ~12V? If you were testing with one fuse installed then it may in fact be that they're flopped/your tap was "backwards" but it's hard to describe. This is a valid concern but only sort of. Backwards means the dash cam load is added to the fuse of the tapped circuit, but no further. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Sep 18, 2018 |
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Sep 18, 2018 02:34
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