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meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Rhyno posted:

I ordered the invisible glass, what interior cleaner/protectant would you recommend that won't gas off?

That's a more difficult question. When I find something, I'll let you know. I use Zymol leather products and it works great, but will definitely gas if left in the sun. :shrug: Easy enough to clean the inside of the windows. :D

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opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I like the Meguiar's interior cleaner. Smells nice and no greasy armorall like residue.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/dp/B000AMLWH8

Voltage
Sep 4, 2004

MALT LIQUOR!
Yeah I just got the gallon of mcguires APC interior it's great.

I used to use sprayaway glass cleaner on everything but they changed the bottle and I think formula and it doesn't foam up like it used to :(

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Rhyno posted:

I ordered the invisible glass, what interior cleaner/protectant would you recommend that won't gas off?

I'm in the middle of a batch of Chem Guys products and am super happy with the results/scents/offgas(lack thereof) of them so far.

I'm using their hard surface interior cleaner, carpet/upholstery cleaner, plastic restorer, and VRP (Vinyl Rubber Plastic) protectant/sealant.
None of it is super shiny either.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

toplitzin posted:

I'm in the middle of a batch of Chem Guys products and am super happy with the results/scents/offgas(lack thereof) of them so far.

I'm using their hard surface interior cleaner, carpet/upholstery cleaner, plastic restorer, and VRP (Vinyl Rubber Plastic) protectant/sealant.
None of it is super shiny either.

I haven't tried Chemical Guy's interior products, but man, I like every thing I've tried of their exterior stuff.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Seminal Flu posted:

I haven't tried Chemical Guy's interior products, but man, I like every thing I've tried of their exterior stuff.

Fabric/Upholstery
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UT5VKW/

Interior Clean
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LPKV28/

VRP
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FJIT9BO/

Clay Lube
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UHQXQ2/

Plastic restoration: (Not Chem Guys)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FRWWRF/


Also, the scents are a blast. (it really does smell of stripper)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TDOH53E/

Dagen H
Mar 19, 2009

Hogertrafikomlaggningen

toplitzin posted:

Also, the scents are a blast. (it really does smell of stripper)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TDOH53E/

I was going to make the obvious joke, but then I clicked the link :stare:

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



I've posted about that before, but that is the best car scent. I find it wears off pretty quick though. I haven't tried CG's new car scent, but it's supposed to be good if you dilute it 50/50 with water.

savesthedayrocks
Mar 18, 2004
I like Aerospace 303 protectant on the interior, and I use Optimum No rinse diluted if I need to clean more than just dust.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Yeah I use 303 just because of the Florida sun, I want all the UV protection I can get. It is kinda greasy tho.

Lightbulb Out
Apr 28, 2006

slack jawed yokel
I used aerospace 303 and like it a lot on my E30s - but I've definitely had a film on the inside of the windshield on all 3 cars. I'm wondering if that's the cause.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Updates:

I had a failed write to the DME when I was switching to linear throttle. That made me a bit :negative: since I assumed it was another total bed making GBS threads like last time.

Thankfully, it only needed a rewrite (although I only found this out after tearing everything apart, checking all fuses, etc...).

It was at that point that my wife said that it's working fine and I should stop loving with it. :D

The good news is that I got it to exactly where I want it. I accidentally (honestly, I swear) wrote the Stage 1+ map when I said I was going to keep it at the Stage 1 map. That, plus changing from the lovely stock throttle mapping made a world of difference. With the stock throttle, 5% of throttle did nothing, 6% started to move and 7% slammed the throttle open and took off. Obviously hyperbolic in description, but that's what it felt like. The linear throttle is SO much easier to modulate and build boost. It's fun.

And on the highway, the motherfucker is sublime. 3/4 throttle to merge and all of a sudden you're rocketing and doing 80+. It's truly quick and I'm super happy with it.

I am on to some cosmetic things. PO put in LED bulbs for the angel eyes and the inner rings light up great, but the outer ones don't work at all. I thought something was broken, so I took out one of the headlights to see. Nope, just lovely LED bulbs. With the E60 LCI and Xenon, there's only one bulb for the rings -- it directly lights the inner rings and there are light tubes that light the outers. These LED bulbs don't put out any light in the direction of the light tubes, so the outers are dead. I'm switching to a :rice: white halogen just to get them looking non-stupid, and I'll research better LED options later on.

Pictures soon, swearsies.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

Applebees Appetizer posted:

Yeah I use 303 just because of the Florida sun, I want all the UV protection I can get. It is kinda greasy tho.

It shouldn't be though. Either using too much product or not buffing it off enough.
303 is amazing. I used it to great results when cleaning my dirty, faded (from salt and poo poo) floor mats. Came out like new without being slippery.

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)
I might give it a go on my interior then. I mainly bought mine to put on windscreen and door rubbers to stop the rot on my e34. For my interior I just used meguires interior cleaner and left it at that because I hate long term effect you can get from protectant sprays that end up greasy - attracting dirt, or foggy on the glass due to evaporation.
At least it's not another product to buy - as I already have it. I've spent hundreds in the last year alone. My last buy was meguires plastic detailer which was great in some places. My greying headlight surrounds and windshield cowl trim for wipers and cabin air are now both black coloured plastic again.
E: my next buy is going to be scratch-x. After polishing my car (took me 6 hrs of clean, polish, detail and wax), I parked it in the sun and saw a shitload of swirl scratches - though mainly on the boot/trunk lid - doesn't show up everywhere because my car is white I guess.

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 11:28 on Aug 25, 2018

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

BMW keeps their service records tight to their vest, if you're not the person that had service done, you're probably not getting records. Thankfully, there are ways around it (knowing dealership people). With that, I was able to get the service records for the first owner of this wagon and, so now I have most of this history on this car back to the in-service date.

First owner put 23k miles on it the first year, and over 72k in the first 30 months. That's pretty impressive. It also looks like there were at least two HPFP failures. That's pretty BMW.

Other than that, it looks pretty clean.

Car is running well, I'm picking up a gear-type whine in the 35mph range. I don't know if it's one of the diffs not liking the fluid I put in (fresh Redline 75W90 in the front, old Mobil 1 75W90 that was sitting on my shelf in the rear), or if it's the transfer case, which hasn't had a fluid change as far as I know.

As I start to trust it a tiny little bit, I'm getting on it a bit harder and man, the power really kicks in hard. Too hard for the stock traction control programming. If I stomp it in first or second, it'll hit and pull, then all of a sudden throw you forward as the DSC cuts power. This can be mitigated by switching DSC off leaving DTC enabled which allows a bit more wheel slippage before intervention, but that resets every key cycle and has a nasty yellow dash light when it's on. :sigh:

bolind
Jun 19, 2005



Pillbug
I wonder if the DSC stuff could be coded to be permanently off - the start/stop in mine certainly can.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Remember when I said I was going to do this:

Seminal Flu posted:

So... I'm thinking of doing something dumb. But, if it's dumb and works, it's not dumb, right?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xgw2Iq8oDpc

Well... I did that. Worked perfectly.

The transfer case fluid is $50 per liter, so it's nothing to just throw around... and I threw some around, but it worked.

I had to grind down a 14mm hex stub to fit between the transfer case drain and the transmission. After that, I drained the fluid. I got less than 1/4 of a liter out, and spec is .65 liter, so I'm damned glad I did this. The good news is that the fluid that drained out was clearly spent, but no metal shavings or anything other than the expected swarf of 150k miles.

Then I practiced about a dozen times with the drain plug, getting exactly how it goes in figured out. I found the right orientation and scored a mark on the drain plug to align it when it was time.

I took a rubber stopper, drilled through it, fed the hose from the pump through the stopper and put it in the drain hole.

I pumped about .7 liters in and got ready. I pulled the stopper out and tried to get the drain plug in place, but all I got was pouring fluid... I didn't pull the stopper out far enough and the pump hose was interfering. I shoved the stopper back in, looked at how much spilled, and pumped another bit of fluid in, somewhat less than .2 liter.

I tried it again and the second time worked with minimal spilling. The drain plug caught right away and the fluid stayed in.

Not a pretty way to do things, but that saved me dropping the entire exhaust system from the downpipes back, where the downpipe joint hardware is pretty rusted and will probably need to have stud replacement when I do separate it.

Some of the binding I was feeling was definitely gone. The whine is still there, I'm going to give it a few days to work in and see what's next.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Why not get a Fumoto?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

IOwnCalculus posted:

Why not get a Fumoto?

Clearance. The drain plug is less than 1 1/2" from the fins of the transmission pan and is recessed between fins on the transfer case. It's tight.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Seminal Flu posted:

Clearance. The drain plug is less than 1 1/2" from the fins of the transmission pan and is recessed between fins on the transfer case. It's tight.

Ah, so same idea as the video but not nearly as much room. Not even one of their SX or BSX valves?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

IOwnCalculus posted:

Ah, so same idea as the video but not nearly as much room. Not even one of their SX or BSX valves?

It looks pretty open in this pic, but keep in mind that the mid-point of the drain plug is at the bottom of the transmission pan fins, and there is 1 1/2" clear space between the drain plug and those fins. Plus, it's a "lifetime" fluid from BMW, and the only time I'll change it in this car, so I'm done for a long time.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Seminal Flu posted:

Car is running well, I'm picking up a gear-type whine in the 35mph range. I don't know if it's one of the diffs not liking the fluid I put in (fresh Redline 75W90 in the front, old Mobil 1 75W90 that was sitting on my shelf in the rear), or if it's the transfer case, which hasn't had a fluid change as far as I know.

Okay, the whine is getting louder. Transfer case didn't make a difference. Entire drivetrain was dead silent before I hosed with it.

From what I can tell from driving, it seems like the front differential, so I'm going to swap out the Redline fluid for something else. Probably the Mobil 1 that I used in the rear, just because it's easy to locally source.

Is there anything else I should be looking at? I don't have any experience with Redline, other than using it my Miata 15 years ago. I bought it from FCP Euro because they listed it as appropriate, but neither ECS nor Pelican sell it for that application.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
I put redline in my 01 325XI front transfer case and it noticeably quieted it down. Before I heard a thunk after each engagement at low speeds. After it's nice and smooth. Believe it was MTL?

BloodBag
Sep 20, 2008

WITNESS ME!



This is why I always am weary of working on my cars, because of the dread that I'll make them worse instead of better.

mungtor
May 3, 2005

Yeah, I hate me too.
Nap Ghost

Seminal Flu posted:

Okay, the whine is getting louder. Transfer case didn't make a difference. Entire drivetrain was dead silent before I hosed with it.

From what I can tell from driving, it seems like the front differential, so I'm going to swap out the Redline fluid for something else. Probably the Mobil 1 that I used in the rear, just because it's easy to locally source.

Is there anything else I should be looking at? I don't have any experience with Redline, other than using it my Miata 15 years ago. I bought it from FCP Euro because they listed it as appropriate, but neither ECS nor Pelican sell it for that application.


I put 75w90 in the front differential of my '09 328xi and it was fine for another 20k miles. I specifically used the non-slip version tho, since it doesn't have the friction modifiers. Not sure whether that's what you put in, but based on the fact that both front and rear are open diffs I'd try the 75w90-NS if you just put the standard stuff in. Or the genuine BMW stuff isn't that much more expensive.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/rear-differential-fluid-1-liter/07512293972/

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Seminal Flu posted:

Okay, the whine is getting louder. Transfer case didn't make a difference. Entire drivetrain was dead silent before I hosed with it.

From what I can tell from driving, it seems like the front differential, so I'm going to swap out the Redline fluid for something else. Probably the Mobil 1 that I used in the rear, just because it's easy to locally source.

Is there anything else I should be looking at? I don't have any experience with Redline, other than using it my Miata 15 years ago. I bought it from FCP Euro because they listed it as appropriate, but neither ECS nor Pelican sell it for that application.

I hate to say it, but this sounds like the :allears: moment the thread has been spiraling toward. Hopefully it's an easy fix... Or you do a crazy full tear down with a lot of pictures.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Larrymer posted:

I hate to say it, but this sounds like the :allears: moment the thread has been spiraling toward. Hopefully it's an easy fix... Or you do a crazy full tear down with a lot of pictures.

When I say "whine," I mean that I can hear it with the windows up, A/C and radio off. It's very quiet, but there...

It's lovely comments like that that really make people want to post.

BloodBag posted:

This is why I always am weary of working on my cars, because of the dread that I'll make them worse instead of better.

I did a full-on shotgun approach to maintenance with this, it's not surprising that it'll take a second round of tweaking. Have faith in yourself, cars are ultimately just a collection of parts. They were put together, they can come apart and get put together again.

mungtor posted:

I put 75w90 in the front differential of my '09 328xi and it was fine for another 20k miles. I specifically used the non-slip version tho, since it doesn't have the friction modifiers. Not sure whether that's what you put in, but based on the fact that both front and rear are open diffs I'd try the 75w90-NS if you just put the standard stuff in. Or the genuine BMW stuff isn't that much more expensive.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/rear-differential-fluid-1-liter/07512293972/

I just wish I could pinpoint which gearbox it was coming from... I'd hate to throw M1 in the front and have it end up being the rear (that's already filled with M1) be the culprit... oh well, I'll do more digging this weekend.

Just changed the oil on the Escalade. Holy poo poo is it nice to do things where there are zero packaging issues. Just get under, drain & remove filter, put new filter and plug in, then fill back up. No twisting or contorting, no special wrench to remove the oil filter, just dumb mechanicin' stuff.

meatpimp fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Sep 21, 2018

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Seminal Flu posted:

It's lovely comments like that that really make people want to post.

From the outside looking in, we're talking about a high mileage BMW with a complicated AWD system that's a bitch to work on from the sounds of things. I think you can recognize the potential for issues, here. I'm honestly not trying to be a dick just for the sake of it.

I think it's still a cool car and even said I hope you don't have to deal with the huge amount of work it would be to fix otherwise. But if so, it would be neat to see it since it's a car that's outside my comfort zone of Automotive Sanity. GL :hf:

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Larrymer posted:

From the outside looking in, we're talking about a high mileage BMW with a complicated AWD system that's a bitch to work on from the sounds of things. I think you can recognize the potential for issues, here. I'm honestly not trying to be a dick just for the sake of it.

I think it's still a cool car and even said I hope you don't have to deal with the huge amount of work it would be to fix otherwise. But if so, it would be neat to see it since it's a car that's outside my comfort zone of Automotive Sanity. GL :hf:
Edit: Nevermind, comedy forum :hurr:

The bottom line is that the potential for disaster is there. But I really like the car, so I'm trying to get on top of the issues and hoping that it will be reasonable and reliable. It's a complex car with some stupid engineering choices and many expensive and complicated subsystems. It's 50/50 whether it'll last or not. In the meantime, I've got a 12/13 second BMW wagon that looks expensive and modern and I'm into it for less than $6k. If it burns to the ground, I'd be disappointed, but it's not a huge financial risk.

The funny thing is that I was driving the Escalade after some maintenance today and previously it felt quick for a big vehicle. Now it feels dog slow.

I forgot how completely power corrupts both your driving style and your concept of what is quick. I hope the wagon stays quick and doesn't kill me.

meatpimp fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Sep 21, 2018

Woolwich Bagnet
Apr 27, 2003



Could be a front wheel bearing. Mine sounded like that when it started to go bad, got louder the faster I went.

BloodBag
Sep 20, 2008

WITNESS ME!



Minnesota Mixup posted:

Could be a front wheel bearing. Mine sounded like that when it started to go bad, got louder the faster I went.

In my experience, wheel bearings sound like tire rumble. I had two bad fronts in a subaru and it sounded like a B17 flying overhead. My wife's mini needs a new right front and it sounds like it's got a muddin' tire over there.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001
When the front wheel bearings went in mine, it was steering dependent. I cant remember if you turned towards or away to make the noise go away, but it was one of them. I wouldn't describe it as a whine, more like a rumble.

If you want to change them, remember you have to get specific 4wd bearings, all the listings are for 2wd ones. The 4wd ones you need a press, and they are expensive, even though you get less stuff.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

This definitely sounds like gear, not even pinion bearings, but gear-gears. You can almost feel the teeth engaging as the car slows down. With that, I'm really thinking/hoping it's the front diff not liking the redline fluid. I'll change it out and see if it makes any difference.

Funny thing is that when I saw that only 1/3 of the recommended amount of fluid came out of the transfer case, I thought that'd be it for sure. But changing the transfer case fluid made absolutely zero difference. (Zero metal shavings in any of the gearbox oil, though)

We'll see. I'll change it out soon.

We did 270 miles in the Escalade today and got back into the BMW and my wife even commented on how damned fast it is. I've been looking at X3s with the N55, because I like the way this one is looking, but she made sure to tell me that she didn't want me to make it crazy fast, since it would be her car. And she likes quick cars. (I'm saying this wagon is really, really fast).

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Seminal Flu posted:

I forgot how completely power corrupts both your driving style and your concept of what is quick. I hope the wagon stays quick and doesn't kill me.

I've always drove slow cars that you can drive fast, and when I went from a 1.6 Miata to a 1.8 it was like woooooooohooooo! Really a small difference but felt huge lol.

Also my xB feels like a rocket ship compared to our HHR which is bizarre. The Chevy is just so loving anemic.

Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist

The xB also weighs approximately seven (7) pounds which I'm sure helps.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

It's an xB2 so it weighs just a few hundred pounds less than a Camry of the same year (2013). It also has the Camry 4cyl in it too so it hustles pretty good for a 4 banger with a slushbox. I was pleasantly surprised when I test drove it because i was expecting it to be a dog.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Best thing for fast cars is to own something slow that you regularly drive too. I find it really helps to prevent your baseline definition of "fast" from getting too crazy.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!

Bajaha posted:

Best thing for fast cars is to own something slow that you regularly drive too. I find it really helps to prevent your baseline definition of "fast" from getting too crazy.

Don't you own a Porsche and and STI swapped Baja???


Which of those is the slow car?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Applebees Appetizer posted:

It's an xB2 so it weighs just a few hundred pounds less than a Camry of the same year (2013). It also has the Camry 4cyl in it too so it hustles pretty good for a 4 banger with a slushbox. I was pleasantly surprised when I test drove it because i was expecting it to be a dog.

Your LS400 must feel like a jet in comparison.


Bajaha posted:

Best thing for fast cars is to own something slow that you regularly drive too. I find it really helps to prevent your baseline definition of "fast" from getting too crazy.

Yup, but slow cars change, too. I had been driving the Avalon as a beater and you could feel the difference between regular and premium gas. It adds a ton of timing when running premium, but it's still anemic. The Escalade is much faster. Now the BMW makes the Escalade look like the Avalon. It's all perspective.

That said -- I told Dad that I wouldn't want his M3, because it's fast enough to get into law trouble. And with the wagon, I almost got into law trouble this week. :sigh:


Rhyno posted:

Don't you own a Porsche and and STI swapped Baja???


Which of those is the slow car?

He did more to his Baja than I did to my Forester, so I'll guess the Baja is faster by a damned sight.

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opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Bajaha posted:

Best thing for fast cars is to own something slow that you regularly drive too. I find it really helps to prevent your baseline definition of "fast" from getting too crazy.

Can confirm. Beater is a....I dunno 130ish hp Vibe. Driving the 460hp Mustang after driving the Vibe for a few days makes it feels like a supercar haha.

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