|
Done being built! Woohoo!!!  Now just to sand, stain and seal. Hey what’s the recommendation for bolting to my metal frame? Drill biggish holes and feed a bolt through and but it on the inside of the leg?
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 01:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 03:30 |
|
|
Aren't a lot of headboards that are added on just fastened to the wall behind the bed?
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 01:49
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:Aren't a lot of headboards that are added on just fastened to the wall behind the bed? Yea, I’m sure they are. Do we think it foolhardy to attach it to the bed frame? Also, by what means (nondestructive) would I attach it?
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 01:56
|
|
|
Feenix posted:Yea, I’m sure they are. Do we think it foolhardy to attach it to the bed frame? Also, by what means (nondestructive) would I attach it?
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 02:20
|
|
|
Feenix posted:Yea, I’m sure they are. Do we think it foolhardy to attach it to the bed frame? Also, by what means (nondestructive) would I attach it? Like you said, probably a few slightly oversized holes and some bolts and washers? probably put two on each leg, at least. If you wanted to get weird/fancy, you could try threading the the wood, but that might be a bad idea. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJpgT2VCB_w
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 02:23
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:So I've got a 12" Kobalt sliding compound miter saw that I purchased about 3 years ago, and the more I use it the more I realize just how out of square everything is. Feenix posted:Done being built! Woohoo!!! I’d bolt the headboard to to the wall and the frame to the headboard. You could through bolt it like you described or just lag bolt or even screw from the frame into the posts-it doesn’t need a hugely strong connection
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 03:52
|
|
|
Thanks for the advice! I’m a *little* hesitant to do wall *and* frame because with small kids, sometimes stuff falls behind the bed or the side of the bed and well, you just end up sliding the bed a lot.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 04:40
|
|
|
Hell, between the frame and the mattress, you could probably just slam the whole thing up against the wall and be fine. In 36 years of sleeping in a bed, I can't think of ever having one slide away from the wall far enough that the headboard would fall on me. And it's not like it's going to tip over sideways. It might slide a bit if you're putting it on hardwood, but I bet if you have carpet you couldn't even push it without getting way down low on it. E: If you were looking to attach it to the wall but not drill through your front, I bet you could make a heavy duty french cleat picture hanger work back there. Then you could just move your bedframe to retrieve things and still take the whole thing down easily if you need to. EE: Actually I really like this idea and would probably do it this way myself. https://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-Hangman-200-lbs-French-Cleat-Picture-Hanger-with-Wall-Dog-Mounting-Screws-55316/202341629 Rated for 200 lb, you could fit two of those on the back and jackknife dive off the thing into bed if you were ... so inclined. Huxley fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Sep 21, 2018 |
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 14:26
|
|
|
To what fineness should I sand my headboard? It will be stained. It is expected to be somewhat rustic. Not distressed, but rustic. I'd like it to feel nice, but take stain well. I'm just gonna hit it with the orbital. 220 ok? Should I go higher? Is that too high? [edit] @Huxley French Cleats might be the way to go. I mean, it has legs so it's not hanging. It's more just... to keep it from moving, I suppose? That could work. I have no idea how heavy the headboard is, but it is VERY heavy. But I imagine if it's supporting it's own weight and the cleats are just there to discourage 'slide' then they would work well. Feenix fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Sep 21, 2018 |
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 19:25
|
|
|
The wife and I are finally starting to shop for homes and I had a couple of questions. I'd like to have a dedicated shop space either in a basement, or in a separate outbuilding either already with the house (ideal) or we build one (kit or custom). So, I was wondering a couple of things. We're in New England, DINK situation so overall space will not be an issue. If it was a basement shop I'd likely be able to get nearly the entire run of the whole basement but based on houses we've seen so far this would come with fairly low ceilings compared to a dedicated shop space. I see myself using this shop to mostly build furniture and smaller sized projects for the house. I've got an unpowered shop right now but would eventually likely have at minimum: dust collection system, table saw, bandsaw, mitersaw, router table, joiner, planer, lathe (6-8'), drill press. Biggest projects I'd likely build would be bedframes and larger size bookcases, dining room table etc, everything else would be smaller. What would be a good square footage to shoot for at minimum to make this work? For people who have had to build their own shop setups, any suggestions / recommendations? Would a basement shop be a terrible idea for this?
|
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 19:47
|
|
|
Carrying things in and out of a basement sounds like a not fun time
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 19:52
|
|
|
Yeah for a basement workshop your first concern should probably be whether you could realistically get machines, materials, and products in and out. Second and third are likely noise and usable work area.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 20:05
|
|
|
That Works posted:at minimum: dust collection system, table saw, bandsaw, mitersaw, router table, joiner, planer, lathe (6-8'), drill press. At minimum  Are you talking contractor type machines you pull out when you need to use it or cabinets/permanent machines in a shop setup?
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 20:21
|
|
|
That Works posted:I see myself using this shop to mostly build furniture and smaller sized projects for the house. I've got an unpowered shop right now but would eventually likely have at minimum: dust collection system, table saw, bandsaw, mitersaw, router table, joiner, planer, lathe (6-8'), drill press. Biggest projects I'd likely build would be bedframes and larger size bookcases, dining room table etc, everything else would be smaller. I'd suggest drawing out layouts on some graph paper or something and trying to imagine what it'd be like to try to use the tools. I have a 384-sqft workshop that I haven't bothered to lay out at all smoothly (there's an 8'x4' plywood-top table smack in the middle that's basically just used by my miter saw and to keep work-in-progress pieces off the ground), but I'm pretty sure I'd struggle to fit that many tools into it even if I optimized things. In particular, the table saw, planer, jointer, and depending on your style, the router table and bandsaw will all want plenty of space fore and aft so you can run large pieces through them. Are you planning to have every tool have a permanent home where it's fully usable without moving it? A setup where several tools are on wheels and spend most of their time stashed against the walls would be more flexible, but it'd make the tools a bit more annoying to use. For my workshop, I built a flip-top cart for my planer and router table, which means I can only use one at a time, but I usually only need the planer when surfacing rough lumber; the rest of the time the planer basically takes up no space because it's hanging out on the underside of the router table. I also put my bandsaw up on wheels, but I use it often enough that the wheels don't really mean anything; it just stays put. Another thing to consider is how you're going to handle lumber storage. Boards take up a lot of space, especially if you're the collector type that gets twice as much wood as you actually need every time you go to the lumberyard. In a separate building, you might be able to use the ceiling joists to store some boards (though they'll be irritating to stow and take down), but you definitely won't be able to do that in a basement shop.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 20:26
|
|
|
A lot of people use this when planning out a shop http://www.grizzly.com/workshopplanner
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 20:55
|
|
|
So I tried the cleaner and old English rout on the used bedframe and it did not quite do the trick like I hoped. Sanding it is. Any recommendations on how fine I'll want to go? And any favorite chemical strippers I should use? There's a stain on the frame already but morning else.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 21:22
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:At minimum Well... at minimum as, tools I know I want to eventually get. Will take a bit to get there and we are in a DINK situation. Was mostly planning on buying a lot of this as old rear end used tools. TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'd suggest drawing out layouts on some graph paper or something and trying to imagine what it'd be like to try to use the tools. For lumber storage it depends on the rest of the house I guess. If the shop is in an outbuilding and there's a separate basement, I'd probably take some of the basement space for long-term lumber storage and move out some to the shop. But yeah, if that's not feasible, it factors into having a bigger shop overall or something with a substantial loft etc. I think only a few of the tools will need permanent homes, and honestly, I don't know enough yet to know what I can get away with "cheaper/semi-portable/small" tool vs "you really want to get the best one that you can afford" too. I'll probably bug you guys more about that once things actually start happening. For now I'd imagine the bandsaw and tablesaw would need a dedicated space and the rest of the stuff potentially be stowable / movable, but I don't have the experience to be sure on that. For the basement, only likely feasible if it's a walkout type basement which is incredibly common in a lot of the houses we are starting to look at. But good point otherwise. Without a walkout setup that won't be doable for certain machines. coathat posted:A lot of people use this when planning out a shop http://www.grizzly.com/workshopplanner Thanks a lot! I guess a better way to frame this might have been 'what kind of shop setups do you guys have and how much space do you work with / what tools does that accommodate and what do you love / hate about it as is?' Being in New England there's some "cabinet shop going out of business" kinda sale or whatever on Craigslist all the drat time with a bunch of massive Delta, Jet, Rockwell bandsaws, tablesaws, lathes etc for sale on a pretty regular basis. Felt like I could start keeping an eye out for some of the better opportunities there along the way.
|
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2018 23:52
|
|
|
That Works posted:For now I'd imagine the bandsaw and tablesaw would need a dedicated space and the rest of the stuff potentially be stowable / movable, but I don't have the experience to be sure on that. Jointers and full-size lathes are not stowable. They're way too big for that. How much carpentry experience do you have? What tools do you currently have? There's nothing wrong with throwing money at your hobbies, but you also don't want to spend thousands to tens of thousands of dollars (depending on how much work it is to get your shop space, let alone fill it with tools) on something that you might not end up using.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 00:29
|
|
|
Rythe posted:Has anybody worked with rattan wood strips or poles before? Im trying to find something light weight and flexible to use as a internal support for my daughters Halloween costume and im having trouble finding a supplier. Nobody answered your question, and this is not exactly what you asked, but check out some of Rob Cockerham's costume builds. He uses a lot of PVC pipe to make his frameworks: it's easily bent if you heat sections with a heat gun (outside, do not breathe fumes), is very lightweight, and easy to drill & attach things to: http://cockeyed.com/incredible/incredible.html Just scroll down and look through ones marked costume
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 00:39
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Jointers and full-size lathes are not stowable. They're way too big for that. I grew up working in a mechanics shop, then switched over and did iron and steel fab / welding in the oilfield during summers to pay for college. Other than woodshop though in high school the only hands on experience with this that I have is over the past 6 months or so. Right now everything is unpowered for a small shop, but I want to eventually have a shop good enough to do stuff like build most of the furniture in the house as well as potentially do things like build and replace cabinets etc down the line if we wanted. However, the only reason I hadn't started sooner was because I was locked into a career that demanded basically working for peanuts until my late 30s and living in tiny apartments in big cities. The whole time though, I knew that once I got the final big job and was able to buy a house, that I wanted to have a workshop of some kind, even if it wasn't solely dedicated to being a woodshop. As I've done more stuff in the last 2 years with the better job though I am far more interested in continuing on with this than I am in fixing up old cars again etc. I've already built 3 functional (but not quite beautiful) pieces of furniture for the house that we use every day. So yeah this wouldn't be a "go out and buy $15k in tools in a year" more a "buy a house this coming year" then "slowly fill the shop with tools you need over the next x years". So, just kinda thinking of what that eventual ideal setup would look like, and how much space I would need to shoot for since once we buy that's gonna lock that part in. Edit: Tools I have are a couple of chisel sets, about 5 different planes spanning the whole array of sizes, 3 finer backsaws, a large (~30"?) ripsaw, same size crosscut saw, rasps, files, brace + bits, lots of other measurment, markdown tools etc. The only power tools I own are an orbital sander, a cordless drill, a corded heavier duty drill and a lovely used scrollsaw I ended up with but have never used. That Works fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Sep 22, 2018 |
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 00:47
|
|
|
Rythe posted:Has anybody worked with rattan wood strips or poles before? Im trying to find something light weight and flexible to use as a internal support for my daughters Halloween costume and im having trouble finding a supplier. I made some lamps and animals out of something similar to this basket making reed (first thing I found when googling so maybe find one that fits you). I went to a local arts and crafts store and said I wanted wood that would be flexible once soaked in water and it was perfect https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HU6550G here is an example of what people do with it, search for wooden reed lantern or something https://www.flickr.com/photos/davetonkin/5191822624/in/photostream/ should be super easy, I'd definitely go with this over PVC. I ended up getting a big tub of water, soaking the reed, then putting some different watercolor paints in another tub of water to soak sheets of thick paper which I wrapped around the reeds. You should be able to nail your idea that way or paper mache Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Sep 22, 2018 |
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 00:52
|
|
|
My dad's clown pants use the wire from a couple car sun shades. He has suspenders so I don't know if it's too heavy for your costume.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 00:55
|
|
|
I was a dumb rear end and screwed up my friend's table Any advice how to fix this? Thinking best I can do is probably cherry colored putty and some lacquer to seal but not real sure.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 03:01
|
|
|
just gonna open a beer on this wood table oh
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 03:35
|
|
|
Is Porter Cable transitioning to garbage (Black & Decker) tier tools? I've started to see a lot of cheaper looking (and priced) Porter Cable tools like thickness planers, rip-saws, cordless drill sets, etc.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 04:31
|
|
|
To the basement shop guy, it seems to me if you want a basement workshop then Matthias Wandel had such a shop for years and has written about it extensively, and is now moving back into one. Probably some tips here for you: https://woodgears.ca/workshop/basement.html https://woodgears.ca/workshop/2012.html https://woodgears.ca/workshop/2017.html In my view he has a lot of space, 34 square meters is 5 more than I do and those make a difference. And a more square instead of rectangular layout like in my garage I believe works better for a workshop.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 05:58
|
|
|
Blistex posted:Is Porter Cable transitioning to garbage (Black & Decker) tier tools? I've started to see a lot of cheaper looking (and priced) Porter Cable tools like thickness planers, rip-saws, cordless drill sets, etc. B&D bought PC, they moved all their manufacturing to Mexico & China, and then Stanley bought the whole shebang. PC is just a fancier B&D now-- same factories, mold-makers, engineers, and component suppliers.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 13:27
|
|
|
Hey all, my wife says we can get a new power tool in the $200-300 range and I’m thinking that a woodworking tool would be a good idea. Currently have the following: - circular saw - orbital palm sander - jigsaw - drill I’d been thinking about a router (plus table) or a band saw, but it seemed prudent to check here. What is likely to most increase productivity wrt both household projects (baseboards, landscape features, built-in bookshelves, etc) and hobby/fun projects, in y’all’s opinion?
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 13:43
|
|
|
Apollodorus posted:Hey all, my wife says we can get a new power tool in the $200-300 range and I’m thinking that a woodworking tool would be a good idea. Currently have the following:
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 13:58
|
|
|
Router table plus cheap trim router for that project list.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 15:07
|
|
|
Apollodorus posted:Hey all, my wife says we can get a new power tool in the $200-300 range and I’m thinking that a woodworking tool would be a good idea. Currently have the following: A miter saw will make crosscuts substantially faster and more accurate, compared to using the circular saw. The router/router table will let you put profiles on boards and do a few other things like cut dados, but you also need a set of bits to do anything. One of those would be my first pick.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 15:27
|
|
|
Crazyeyes posted:I was a dumb rear end and screwed up my friend's table Putty yes, lacquer definite no. It will eat into just about any finish that is on there, and then you'll have a real problem. Apollodorus posted:Hey all, my wife says we can get a new power tool in the $200-300 range and I’m thinking that a woodworking tool would be a good idea. Currently have the following: You could probably get a very decent router and bandsaw used if you shop around a bit. I picked up a variable speed Hitachi 2 1/4hp router, 2 bases, case for 28  plus shipping off the 'Bay.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 16:16
|
|
|
I had this notion yesterday that I wanted to shorten the height of my headboard’s legs by a quarter inch or so. I flipped it and kept my hand steady with a belt sander and... curved the poo poo out of it. Lol! I only did one leg and I mostly have fixed my mistake. My question is, what’s the best way to cut the same off the other leg? I have a nice Milwaukee jigsaw. I also have a small handheld Japanese saw. I can sand out to polish it up, but I just want a straight-ish, un-hosed cut.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 16:22
|
|
|
If you don't have a precision machine saw capable of making a square cut, i.e. either a miter saw, a bandsaw, or a table saw with a good crosscut sled, I'd suggest the hand saw. At least if it's 1 cm (½") or more you need to take off. Making a square crosscut with a hand saw does take a lot of practice, and if you don't have that, don't expect to get a great result. Otherwise, if you don't have an appropriate machine saw, or don't feel comfortable doing it with a hand saw, the sander is basically your only option. Before sanding off length again, make a jig to feed the piece square onto the sanding belt!
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 16:34
|
|
|
measure how much you want to cut off, carry a line around with a speed square and cut it off by hand using the speed square as as guideApollodorus posted:Hey all, my wife says we can get a new power tool in the $200-300 range and I’m thinking that a woodworking tool would be a good idea. Currently have the following: I can't imagine not having a miter saw
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 17:24
|
|
|
I'm having a hard time sanding this Birch ply wood from Home Depot. I've sanded it down to 220 and I'm still getting little micro splinters that catch on rags and stuff. Do I need to go finer? Is there something I need to treat it with before sanding?
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 17:35
|
|
|
^^Hit it with 600 and call it a day, you don't really want to sand ply wood aggressively as the finished faces are not that thick. Voting Miter saw, one of the most used power tools I own.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 17:39
|
|
|
This is good advice! (As is the other advice!) thanks to you both! Will I have decent luck with the jigsaw if I used a clamped piece of wood as a fence? I’ve done that before for quick, clean cuts.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 17:40
|
|
|
If you're trying to lower legs with a belt sander I'd imagine you'd be fine with the cut you get from a jigsaw but I still wouldn't go that way
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 17:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 03:30 |
|
|
Jigsaws are not in my experience precision instruments, especially not for cutting through thick material.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2018 18:11
|
|