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I finally found a used Berk exhaust for the S2000. Just need to weld a Vibrant 3" muffler into it somewhere and make a 90* tip for it to pass the local 94db track. Should cut 30lbs off the car.
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Sep 19, 2018 22:33
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EvilBeard posted:as long as it's clean and wash/degrease it, plastidip will stick to most everything (except glass). As for hiding flaws, it's not super super great at that. Dents and dings will still show, but small scratches and such will be covered. I chose to do this because the paint was bubbling up behind the passenger side rear door. I sanded it down, and primed it before I dipped the car. Before I dip again, I'll get some ezsand and fill the pits and make it smoother. This is just a first real full car dip job. I made a few small errors, that I definitely learned from, so it'll be much better the next time around. The painting part doesn't take as long as the washing/masking. Not a single dent or ding, thanks to plastic body panels.  Just a lot of missing paint.  To be honest I'll probably just drop the $200 or whatever it goes for these days for a Maaco paint job. I don't care about it looking great, I just want it to stop loving shredding (and stop being probable cause, it's 1 step above an 80s Camaro right now, and the area I live in is famous for its overzealous police). At the moment the factory spoiler is unpainted (how the gently caress did that even happen?  ), the roof side rails are shedding paint, drivers door is missing a chunk of paint, and the front bumper is missing a large chunk of paint. Need to remove all that drat adhesive from the roof too.Most Ions I've seen in black had some pretty nasty paint issues, this one is no exception. Every other color I've seen has held up shockingly well. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:01 on Sep 20, 2018 |
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Sep 20, 2018 11:58
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STR posted:Not a single dent or ding, thanks to plastic body panels. I like doing things myself, and the idea that I can try outrageous colors with no real consequences is a bonus. Their Magma Orange is my next color choice, I'll probably put it on this Spring.
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Sep 20, 2018 14:55
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Fellow goon Carboy44 did most of the work this morning and we swapped out the CV boot that I tore installing the springs a couple weekends back. Torn boot was just starting to throw grease around, I only put about 15 miles on the car as I knew that it was torn and just needed to get it home so there isn't too much grease.  We pulled the bearing out of the spindle, cut off the old boot, used a brass hammer to smack the bearing off of the axle, then cleaned out the old grease as best we could.  Bearing ready to go back in:  Cleaned off the axle then we were able to align the splines and smack the crap out of the bearing to get it back on the shaft while using a pair of screwdrivers to compress the C clip.  All done!  Then we put on the new shoes: Konig Dekagrams in 18x8.5 +35 with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S in 245/40/18. There is rubbing, which I will attempt to fix by folding a tab near the side markers in the fender well. If that doesnt work, I will maybe look into rolling/pulling the fenders a bit but I hope it doesnt come to that, I love these wheels and tires.      Back on the road and feels great, such a fun little car to drive.
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Sep 23, 2018 06:35
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I was researching the engine in my recent Xterra purchase and discovered the wife's infinity M45 shares the same automatic transmission (RE5R05A) Checked the transmission fluid which looked nice and clean, on the Xterra forums you'll see quite a few people complaining about coolant contaminating the transmission so I thought it good to check. Now the previous owner of the infiniti had money to burn on anything and everything the dealer told him to do, I've got 10 tire rotation receipts to prove it, so I never thought to check the trans. fluid, plus I had a hard time finding it. But now I know where it is from the other vehicle:  Not a color I ever thought I'd see on my own ATF. This probably should have been changed a year ago when we first bought it. I do notice when driving her car that the shifting can be a little late or sudden, time to get dirty. There were about 20 bolts holding the pan on, luckily it also has a drain plug so I didn't have to take a shower but I was not prepared for how long taking these off would take. To my dismay the filter is held on with another 10ish. Next chance I get I'm picking up a power ratchet or adapter. The two magnets inside the pan were pretty gummed up with metallic sludge. Not too concerned but yell at me if I should be. Some gasket pieces floating around that picture too, not fragments.  This is all I could see on the filter itself:  I may have to rethink car maintenance as a hobby if it means scraping this carboardy gasket off constantly. Tedious waste of 45mins. Hit it with penetrating oil and ate dinner, not a huge help but better than nothing. Once everything was back on I put 3.75 liters of Valvoline Maxlife ATF in + a full bottle of LUCAS stop slip. 5 quarts is what I measured coming out so I may add some more today but it measured good from the dipstick at the time. Need to check owners manual today. On the drive home, I was almost orgasmic when I felt it shift into 3rd and 4th smoother than I've every seen "ooohhh yeah"
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Sep 24, 2018 15:27
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Out with the old, in with the new. Yesterday but still counts.  Also got a washer welded on one of my exhaust hangers to keep it from vibrating against the subframe. It was sounding like a fart-canned Civic.
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Sep 25, 2018 01:54
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Plastic engine covers - because the engine needs a hat!
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Sep 25, 2018 03:51
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Vanagoon posted:Plastic engine covers - because the engine needs a hat! I like the old ones on Japanese cars that double as ghetto cold air intakes. If you're going to put on a hat, might as well make sure it provides some shade
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Sep 25, 2018 04:36
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Chunjee posted:The two magnets inside the pan were pretty gummed up with metallic sludge. Not too concerned but yell at me if I should be. Some gasket pieces floating around that picture too, not fragments. Nissan is a fan of RTV instead of actual gaskets for oil pans and transmission pans, and it's a pain in the rear end. Use an actual gasket next time you have the pan off. I'm no expert on automatics, so I can't comment on the metallic stuff (it looks like a lot, but not end of the world, to me, but the last time I dropped a transmission pan was before people of drinking age were even a thought in their father's nutsack), but you should do a couple more drain/fills. You're only getting 1/4 to 1/3 of the ATF out when you drop the pan. At least the next few will only require pulling the drain plug. Obviously drive it a bit between changes. The Door Frame posted:I like the old ones on Japanese cars that double as ghetto cold air intakes. If you're going to put on a hat, might as well make sure it provides some shade Don't you love the ones that also hold the air filter? I'm looking at you, VW. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Sep 25, 2018 |
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Sep 25, 2018 05:41
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STR posted:Nissan is a fan of RTV instead of actual gaskets for oil pans and transmission pans, and it's a pain in the rear end. Use an actual gasket next time you have the pan off. New filter came with a rubber gasket. I was thinking about how much ATF might still be running around in the cooler, etc. I'll keep an eye on it and give it a change before or at the next oil change. Thanks for the tip.
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Sep 25, 2018 11:24
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Dropped off my stock Nikki carb to have stripped, hogged out, rebuilt, and modified with mechanical secondary actuators. Should be fun paired up with the Racing Beat intake and exhaust. I'm expecting performance comparable with a Holley 4bbl but with the ability to corner without leaning out as well.
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Sep 25, 2018 15:50
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Vanagoon posted:Plastic engine covers - because the engine needs a hat! Honestly I don't dislike how it looks. The 2.0 4cyl is just a mess of plastic on top, not really anything special to look at. I might fancy up the cover at some point but for now it is what it is.
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Sep 25, 2018 16:02
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clutchpuck posted:Dropped off my stock Nikki carb to have stripped, hogged out, rebuilt, and modified with mechanical secondary actuators. Should be fun paired up with the Racing Beat intake and exhaust. I'm expecting performance comparable with a Holley 4bbl but with the ability to corner without leaning out as well. 12A? I remember modifying nikki carbs back in the day. Way easier than the hitachi carb that came with the 13B. E: of course most people went with weber (especially on 13Bs) but I had one guy go the holley route and the way that thing ran soured my on holley for decades. That guy still didn't want to go weber so he even tried out a predator carb. Are they still around or were they even a thing in the USA? It's a variable jet huge bucket of fuel pouring device you could loosely called a carb. E2: found a forum link with the predator carb images and operation description http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/predator-carburetors.1861/ Fo3 fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Sep 25, 2018 |
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Sep 25, 2018 16:07
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Yeah I'm putting it on a 12a ported to '74-spec. The way Jeff mods the secondaries for mechanical actuation, they stay completely closed until about 70% throttle, above that they begin to open and are synchronized with the primaries to reach 100% at the same time. Nice workmanship on the mods. I'm looking forward to running it. I looked around for options and it seemed like a Weber would be overkill for my displacement and porting. A full street port would probably do OK on a 48 IDA, but mine's just a little bigger than stock. Dellortos are supposed to be holy grail, but they seem pretty unobtainium now. And I don't hear much good about the Holleys on a rotary. Maybe one day I will go EFI on it with a 48 IDA style throttle body. But for a streetable 12a, that's hardly required.
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Sep 25, 2018 16:27
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The Holley would probably work fine, or as well as it works on any engine, if all of the intake manifold options didn’t force it to run sideways. The float bowls weren’t designed for that. I remember Predators from the ‘80s. Seems like a good concept, but I don’t recall how successful that actually was. They’re a little like the secondaries in a Quadrajet, but for the whole carb.
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Sep 25, 2018 16:37
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clutchpuck posted:Dellortos are supposed to be holy grail, but they seem pretty unobtainium now. It's overkill for a stock port, but you lose too much with a single weber IDA (a race carb with no cold start fuel enrichment) so the idfs became tempting to me anyway. If the engine is mild and you aren't racing then a modified nikki should go OK. I really wish I made a casting of my twin 40idf manifold before I sold it. I'm not interested in the carbs any more but twin 2x40mm throttle bodies looks awesome for EFI. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Sep 25, 2018 |
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Sep 25, 2018 17:15
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Chunjee posted:New filter came with a rubber gasket. I was thinking about how much ATF might still be running around in the cooler, etc. I'll keep an eye on it and give it a change before or at the next oil change. Thanks for the tip. Not as much much as you'd think in the cooler or lines - probably a quart, mayyyybe two quarts. It's almost all in the torque converter (which holds over a gallon by itself). Since you can't fully drain everything at once, you have to do 3 or 4 drains via the pan to really get it cleaned out. Or disconnect the cooler and let it suck new fluid in while it pumps old fluid out, but that gets a little risky (and messy). A lot of people believe you shouldn't let a transmission have 100% new fluid if it hasn't had a change in a long time (and you definitely don't want to have a shop do a flush, since 99% of shops will somehow gently caress it up). I consider automatics to be full of black magic and voodoo, personally, so I always stuck to doing a change at the pan. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Sep 26, 2018 |
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Sep 26, 2018 06:43
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Google passive flush vs active or pressure flush to learn more. Shops do pressure flush and the gunk can clog poo poo up if I'm understanding my mechanics commentary on the subject correctly.
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Sep 26, 2018 20:02
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MC Hawking posted:Shops do pressure flush and the gunk can clog poo poo up if I'm understanding my mechanics commentary on the subject correctly. What can happen is various poo poo (mostly, friction material from the clutch packs) ends up suspended in the fluid can get deposited inside the various passages in the transmission, and if a pressurized flush is done it can dislodge the buildup, at which point it has the potential to clog some critical passage and you lose (for example) the ability to shift into third gear.
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Sep 26, 2018 20:14
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Started getting real familiar with the 4 door Pajero today. Originally I was going to lubricate all the hinges and go over all the seals with silicone but instead I ended up taking out all the curtains and weird lights stuck everywhre, and also took out so much garbage wiring.  All of that now vestigial stuff is gone. A weird quirk of this truck was that there was a small second battery under the hood that didn't belong as this is not a 24v system like Land Cruisers from this era. Instead, as I was taking it all out, I found that it was only powering a bank of car power plugs in the passenger seat, another one mounted underneath the hood, and a light mounted on the front bumper with a switch to turn it on and off under the front bumper as well  When I got the battery out I realized what used to be there, the headlight washer tank. Since this is super offroad serious vehicle it comes with high-pressure headlight washers to get the gunk off of them. The previous owner took that tank out, fabbed up a small battery tray, and mounted a 12v motorcycle-sized battery there instead. I knew this vehicle was used in camping excursions (as I pulled out 6 sets of curtains and their 12 rods) so this isn't too surprising, but the PO could have done a lot less lovely, terrible awful wiring. Plus side is they took very good care of the car otherwise, mechanically and cosmetically. And they weren't smokers.
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Sep 27, 2018 03:00
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You better have kept that CB. Or whatever kind of 2 way radio you found in there. 
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Sep 27, 2018 08:24
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Fo3 posted:I remember the dellorto manifolds that curve over 180 deg (like a 13b efi/turbo inlet manifold), I can't see the point as I don't think they have fuel enrichment 'chokes' either. I knew no one that ran them ever down here and I've seen and owned some weird setups, eg the true holy grail of twin weber 40IDFs, which are a street carb with fuel enrichment. I'm done with carbs, too. I 'm with you on the Weber-looking EFI throttle bodies. They look the business, but have the benefit of being, you know, EFI. As I recall, the 180-degree manifolds for Dellortos was for a little added torque, but also because the Dellortos were designed to be sidedraft, maybe? Also helped a lot with hood clearance when a filter was added.
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Sep 27, 2018 17:08
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I lust after a Microtech but I dunno. Doesn't seem worth the hassle for a mild 12A. When I blow this up and have a REW built it might be necessary. I'm removing wires from the engine bay, adding EFI would mean adding some.
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Sep 27, 2018 18:50
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I'm going to try a MegaSquirt. I know that there's a rotary-dedicated subgroup with plenty of knowledge and experience with them on rotaries. I also happen to have a v2.2 that I built years ago and haven't used.
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Sep 27, 2018 19:39
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STR posted:You better have kept that CB. Or whatever kind of 2 way radio you found in there. I still have it but it's out. Today I changed the belts on the 89 Jimny  Originally I went ahead and ordered new belts because both the AC and Alternator belts started to squeal regardless of tension. Since there is no timing belt sticker (and I didn't get any indication that it had been done recently when imported it) I figured to do the timing belt anyway. It still had the OEM belt from 1989  Three new belts, new tensioner (old one was still in good shape) and new tensioner spring and now it doesn't howl at all like it used to. Threw a can of R12 in it too and the AC works much better now, still a little low. Going to line up the AZ-1 and this Jimny and split another 12 oz of R12 between the two of them. Doing the belts on a Jimny takes 2 hours max, poo poo is so easy.
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Sep 28, 2018 01:23
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How can you tell that the belt was that old?
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Sep 28, 2018 01:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:How can you tell that the belt was that old? I don't know for sure, but considering that it looks like the timing cover had never been off, it's a Suzuki belt, and the label is extremely faded it makes me think it is. Plus like I said, no timing belt sticker which, so far, has been on every car I've gotten. The two other belts were third-party brands, like they had been replaced before at least once. They also were in nicer shape than the timing belt itself, which didn't seen to have any cracks but had lots of fibers starting to shred on the edges. There was also an unreasonable amount of 'rubber dust' I guess you'd call it, on the inside of the timing cover. So I guess I don't know for sure that it's the original belt, but it's very odd for that to be the only Suzuki belt with a hyper faded label on it. Should mention too that if the belt is original it only has 47,000 kms on it, just under 30k miles.
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Sep 28, 2018 01:53
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Ah, yeah, couldn't see the faded logo when I was looking at this on my phone earlier. Between that and the mileage I'd say you're probably right.
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Sep 28, 2018 02:09
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Took some wires out Re-wrapped the ones I need 
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Sep 28, 2018 05:09
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clutchpuck posted:Took some wires out Is it bad that I can tell that's a first-gen RX-7 just from those close-ups? Hell, I knew it was Mazda just from the wiring connectors.
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Sep 28, 2018 23:20
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But can you tell from where these dash instrument wires connect what year? Update: I hosed up and de-pinned one too many and had to fix my fuckup by adding back the wire to the Choke and Check relay. But I think the dash wiring is almost done. What the hell kind of slug/bullet connector do I need for the temp gauge sender? I keep buying little packs of things that look right but nothing is right. Got a new battery, my fuel gauge works! It reads almost 1/4 full, which could be like 3-4 gallons  So I guess I have to drain that. Maybe I should just dump it into my truck. It has a 30 gal tank, so any old crap gas should be diluted enough  I GOT INTO THE GAS CAP. This has been vexing me. The solenoid works-ish, it's rusty and needs some help with the manual release. But that still didn't open the door. Turns out a PO had realized the solenoid was being lazy and modified the fuel door to contact the latch to stay closed with some friction. So I just had to pull a little harder on the door itself to open it. I lubed up the contact point and know what's up, so maybe one day I fix it. Or maybe I like it just a pull-to-open thing. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Sep 30, 2018 |
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Sep 29, 2018 21:07
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Hmmm. Eh, not really, but since the rats nest online has two connectors for solenoids - 79-80? The OEM temp sender is a tiny little bullet connector, like 2/3 the size of a standard crimp on one. No clue where you find a replacement that’s actually the right size. I’d try squeezing a standard one down. If you remove it from the plastic outer shell, you can see they have a seam. Squeeze down one side of the seam, and you can the squish it the other way so the seam overlaps. Get a good fit and put some heat shrink on it after crimping. Edit: wait, you have an electric gas door. I revise my estimate to ‘84-5. I think.
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Sep 30, 2018 19:21
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Cross-post from the flannel AWD thread: Picked up the FXT from the Body shop after leaving it there while I was away on vacation. All the fender rust is gone! Also popped my winter tires on it since the all-season Michelins are pretty tired. The other stock wheels will probably get some nice summer rubber come springtime.    
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Oct 1, 2018 19:48
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Took delivery of another Jimny, came with a rear door that wouldn't open and a very floppy gear stick. Someone smashed the balls off this poor alignment bolt. Everything else on the truck is clean and not-at-all-abused, including the running gear, just someone wrenched on the stick and dented that bolt. That extra piece seems to be something they attempted to wedge in the stick to make it not flop around, didn't work. Have an order for 10 (!) of the bolts as that's how they come from Suzuki.
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Oct 2, 2018 01:04
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Finally got around to ripping the intake manifold off my '13 Golf R to attack the carbon buildup on the valves. It's been mine since 67k and sitting at 107k, not sure if it's been done before, but it's been throwing intermittent CELs for about a year. (goes away in warmer weather) I'm no stranger to working on VWs, but the newest before this was a '93. Holy moly things have gotten so drat hard to work on. Had to detach the whole front clip for enough clearance to take the throttle body off, for enough clearance to get at the last bolt holding the manifold to the block. Which was a goddamn M10 triple square for some reason, and put in a spot where only the most impossibly stubby 3/8 ratchet could both reach and rotate. It took 3 runs to the parts store +1 special order to get poo poo like a super-long 1/4 drive extension, an actual T-30 torx socket after losing two bits into the valley (one still unaccounted for), the M10 triple square, and then the super-stubby 3/8 ratchet to actually get in and turn it. Finally got the bastard off, set it aside and had a look into the valves. Absolutely filthy. #4 was the worst, which makes sense since it was the one throwing the misfire codes at startup. The flow dividers/runners were coated pretty heavy too, they're sitting in a can of Chem-dip right now.    I've got the media blaster and walnut shells on deck, here's hoping I can get the injectors and fuel lines and air hoses and coolant hoses and electric connectors and everything else I had to pull off and move over to make room to get this thing out, all back together, without losing more poo poo down between the block and the alternator or springing a fuel leak and burning it to a crisp. NoWake fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Oct 3, 2018 |
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Oct 3, 2018 02:45
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Decided to try this Optimum No Rinse Wash thing that seems to be popular these days. Quite impressed with the results.
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Oct 3, 2018 05:16
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Removed the spoiler, which looks like it was a replacement itself. I’m starting to piece together that this car may have been rear ended since the bumper gap is a little off too. Ran out of time tonight to finish compounding/polishing, I’ll pick back up tomorrow. 
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Oct 4, 2018 05:19
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Spent way too much money on redoing the brakes on my wagon. Still have to order some small parts though, but it'll be worth it!   And it was about time too:   No wonder Porsche parts are expensive when they come in bags like these: 
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Oct 4, 2018 17:08
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So that is basically DOT 4 for the brake fluid?
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Oct 5, 2018 00:12
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C-Bangin' it
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Colostomy Bag posted:So that is basically DOT 4 for the brake fluid? No, it’s clearly bremmflüssigkeit. Milked fresh from Tyrolean unicorns!
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Oct 5, 2018 02:11
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