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kid sinister posted:You will have to replace that Pushmatic box if you want to bring your place up to code. AFCI breakers were never made for Pushmatics. They did get GFCI breakers though. Thanks for the explanation, I really appreciate it.
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Sep 22, 2018 23:54
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Medullah posted:Hi thread - Replacing the fixture worked, but I'm just not comfortable with the way it feels right now. There are 3 wires inside the fixture, two connecting to brass screws and one connecting to a silver one. I'm having trouble getting the wire to wrap around the screw snugly - as I screw it in, it starts to push the wire out. Add this to the fact that the new fixture needs to turn more than I thought it did to screw in, and I'm a bit concerned. Is this something that can be safely extended? Like, take new wire and attach it to the fixture snugly, screw it in, and then cap them together with the old wire? Edit - It just doesn't seem like there's enough space between the two posts for the brass wire. If they were spread out a bit more, I think I could make it work, but I'm having a hell of a time finding a base that isn't 2 brass close together/2 silver close together. Medullah fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Sep 25, 2018 |
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Sep 25, 2018 21:21
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Medullah posted:Replacing the fixture worked, but I'm just not comfortable with the way it feels right now. There are 3 wires inside the fixture, two connecting to brass screws and one connecting to a silver one. I'm having trouble getting the wire to wrap around the screw snugly - as I screw it in, it starts to push the wire out. Add this to the fact that the new fixture needs to turn more than I thought it did to screw in, and I'm a bit concerned. Make sure you are wrapping it all the way around the screw and that you are wrapping clockwise -- the act of turning the screw should "pull" more wire in, not "push" it away. Medullah posted:Is this something that can be safely extended? Like, take new wire and attach it to the fixture snugly, screw it in, and then cap them together with the old wire? That's exactly what you'd do, yeah. Medullah posted:Edit - It just doesn't seem like there's enough space between the two posts for the brass wire. If they were spread out a bit more, I think I could make it work, but I'm having a hell of a time finding a base that isn't 2 brass close together/2 silver close together. That shouldn't matter -- Silver/Silver and Brass/Brass are connected internally so you don't have to worry shorting in between them. e: Also seriously, if you haven't already go to the hardware store and get some clamps for those wires coming into the box (measure the size of knock-out and get the right size). You are running the risk of something pulling on the wire and loosening a connection in the box (leading to a fault and possibly a fire) or the sharp edges of the metal box cutting the insulation. Hubis fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Sep 25, 2018 |
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Sep 25, 2018 21:50
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Hubis posted:...or the sharp edges of the metal box cutting the insulation. Had this happen at work a couple days ago. I bumped into the cord plugged into the surface mounted outlet for our server rack and BANG! Sparks, a little smoke, and some carbon on the wall, but the breaker didn't trip. Once we took it apart it appears whoever installed it years ago didn't file down the sharp edges or use a bushing on the wiremold coming into the box, and it had sliced into the insulation on the hot wire. We got lucky, it was just a momentary arc and I was there to see it happen; if it had happened in the basement or while nobody was around and lasted a bit longer...
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Sep 25, 2018 22:13
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Hubis posted:e: Also seriously, if you haven't already go to the hardware store and get some clamps for those wires coming into the box (measure the size of knock-out and get the right size). You are running the risk of something pulling on the wire and loosening a connection in the box (leading to a fault and possibly a fire) or the sharp edges of the metal box cutting the insulation. I think the box just needs to be replaced. The hole the NM is currently going through is one used for internal clamps. I don't think they make knockout covers for those holes, so he won't be able to seal it off.
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Sep 26, 2018 01:49
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Special A posted:I think the box just needs to be replaced. The hole the NM is currently going through is one used for internal clamps. I don't think they make knockout covers for those holes, so he won't be able to seal it off. What should I get to do this? Any recommendations? I'd like to make this not a fire hazard this weekend (despite it being like this for 20+ years)
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Sep 26, 2018 16:28
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Medullah posted:What should I get to do this? Any recommendations? I'd like to make this not a fire hazard this weekend (despite it being like this for 20+ years) Blue plastic new-work round box with integral cable clamps. If you're worried about your cable being too short, grab a foot or so off one of the pieces of NM hanging on the "pre-cut trying to sell this" rack at the end of the aisle and some of those wago lever-lock thingies that everyone raves over.
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Sep 26, 2018 22:28
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Medullah posted:What should I get to do this? Any recommendations? I'd like to make this not a fire hazard this weekend (despite it being like this for 20+ years) babyeatingpsychopath posted:Blue plastic new-work round box with integral cable clamps. If you're worried about your cable being too short, grab a foot or so off one of the pieces of NM hanging on the "pre-cut trying to sell this" rack at the end of the aisle and some of those wago lever-lock thingies that everyone raves over. This if you like plastic: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-4-in-20-cu-in-Non-Metallic-Ceiling-Box-with-Mounting-Screws-B720R-SHK/100115858 This is you want metal (don't need the plaster ears though, also note I linked to a 24-pack because I couldn't find the single on the website): https://www.homedepot.com/p/RACO-4-in-Octagon-Box-1-1-2-in-Deep-with-NMSC-Clamps-and-Plaster-Ears-24-Pack-150/206972030
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Sep 27, 2018 01:38
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Is this the right thread for phone wiring? I'm trying to disconnect my house from the Verizon NID so I can plug the line out on my cable modem into the house to distribute phone throughout the house. In the past, all I've had to do to do this was locate the phone jack inside of the NID and disconnect it.. however when I opened the NID here the only jacks I saw didn't have anything in them, and I didn't see any wires that would have been plugged into them. Is there an easy way to test if my house is already been disconnected from the NID? Alternatively, does anyone know what I have to do with the below NID to disconnect it?  Edit: There were three of those "Contains Half Ringer" caps covering those empty plugs and screw terminals, but when I pulled on them to see if the connection was under neath them, two of them fell off.
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Sep 28, 2018 00:09
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The four screw terminals in the center are your connection to the telco side. Remove those wires and tape them off, blue pair is line 1, orange pair is line 2.
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Sep 28, 2018 00:22
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Steampunk Hitler posted:Is this the right thread for phone wiring? I'm trying to disconnect my house from the Verizon NID so I can plug the line out on my cable modem into the house to distribute phone throughout the house. In the past, all I've had to do to do this was locate the phone jack inside of the NID and disconnect it.. however when I opened the NID here the only jacks I saw didn't have anything in them, and I didn't see any wires that would have been plugged into them. Open the telco side and see if it's terminated as RJ-11, if so just unclip it. As long as you have some kind of needle nose pliers you can get it open.
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Sep 28, 2018 00:24
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H110Hawk posted:Open the telco side and see if it's terminated as RJ-11, if so just unclip it. As long as you have some kind of needle nose pliers you can get it open. Going to try this, but if it fails... shame on an IGA posted:The four screw terminals in the center are your connection to the telco side. Remove those wires and tape them off, blue pair is line 1, orange pair is line 2. I'll need to maintain the connection between all of the wires if I want all of my internal wires to be connected together right? So twist them together and then tape them off? Is one of the wires the signal from the telco side, or does the telco side come in through the terminals?
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Sep 28, 2018 00:48
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Steampunk Hitler posted:I'll need to maintain the connection between all of the wires if I want all of my internal wires to be connected together right? So twist them together and then tape them off? Is one of the wires the signal from the telco side, or does the telco side come in through the terminals? I'm pretty sure that empty RJ-11 jack is the telco "input" but it's been a while since I've opened a telco box like this. If you have a volt meter set it to DC and hunt around for something ~12-24Vdc. Or use your tongue and see if it tingles. If it's all 0Vdc there isn't a connection. Make sure you don't have anything supplying dialtone from inside your house at the time. Don't stick your tongue on anything inside that box. So many disgusting insects live in those things. Do it inside your house.
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Sep 28, 2018 01:08
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I'm adding a couple new circuits to my finished garage for power tools. Outlets need to be on the wall opposite of the circuit breaker. Where I'm at so far: I need 12AWG wire for my 20 amp circuits and I need GFCI outlets since it's in a garage. Plan is to run the cable/wires from the side of the box, make a small hole in the drywall for the wires to come out into a box and then to conduit up the wall, across the ceiling, and then down to outlet boxes on the opposite wall. From my understanding... Because it's only two circuits I should be fine with 1/2 inch conduit. But lots of questions from then on. I got NM-B, but as I'm reading more it sounds like I shouldn't run NM-B in conduit? I should be using THHN? I also got Liquid Tight Non metallic flexible conduit because I didn''t know any better. Reading up it's allowed for the length as long as I support it properly (every 3 feet.) But I'm also reading that it may need to be conduit protected from physical damage? Does that mean rigid metal? I'm also reading that LTNFC needs a separate ground, does that mean beyond the grounds for the circuits? Final question, do I need to make sure that all conduit is supported on studs, or is just drywall fine?
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Sep 29, 2018 03:55
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Sudden Loud Noise posted:I'm adding a couple new circuits to my finished garage for power tools. That should be fine, yeah. Sudden Loud Noise posted:But lots of questions from then on. Correct, you want plain ol' loose insulated wire in conduit, you can't run MC or NM through it because it increases the heat buildup and it's also illegal. Sudden Loud Noise posted:I also got Liquid Tight Non metallic flexible conduit because I didn''t know any better. Reading up it's allowed for the length as long as I support it properly (every 3 feet.) But I'm also reading that it may need to be conduit protected from physical damage? Does that mean rigid metal? Sudden Loud Noise posted:I'm also reading that LTNFC needs a separate ground, does that mean beyond the grounds for the circuits? No idea about the separate ground thing, but if it needs one you'll have room in the 1/2" Mimesweeper fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Sep 29, 2018 |
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Sep 29, 2018 05:16
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Sudden Loud Noise posted:I'm adding a couple new circuits to my finished garage for power tools. This would depend on local authority; it would be fine to have exposed NM wiring in an unfinished garage in most places and many inspectors would ok with an exposed run in a non-inhabited room. Does your garage ceiling get alot of physical damage? It's ok to run NM in conduit, it's just that if you do it outside it'd be a violation as it's a wet location and NM isn't rated for that. You won't get two 12/2 NM wires in a 1/2" liquid-tite. If it's more than a 20 foot straight run you won't get 5 THHN wires in there without a fish tape and a lot of cussing. When they say LTNFC needs a separate ground, they just mean that the conduit won't carry a ground. Edit: sorry this wasn't super helpful. If it were my garage I'd just run exposed NM. If it were a client's, I'd maintain fire barrier by doing what you described except I'd go from metal j-box to metal j-box with 1/2" emt and five THHN #12 stranded wires (two hots, two neutrals and one ground) or have attic/wall access. Liquid-tight is nice for protecting short runs from the elements but it's tough to pull through. Sheetrock mollys (sheetrock anchors?) would be fine, studs are better. Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Sep 29, 2018 |
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Sep 29, 2018 13:53
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H110Hawk posted:I'm pretty sure that empty RJ-11 jack is the telco "input" but it's been a while since I've opened a telco box like this. If you have a volt meter set it to DC and hunt around for something ~12-24Vdc. Or use your tongue and see if it tingles. If it's all 0Vdc there isn't a connection. Make sure you don't have anything supplying dialtone from inside your house at the time. -48 DC And it's fine to just take them off the terminals on the side that's open and keep them together. Bonus points for some dielectric grease and a wire nut, since I doubt there's much chance of coming up with a proper scotchloc.
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Sep 29, 2018 21:19
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Motronic posted:-48 DC Been a blessedly long time since I have touched telco gear.
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Sep 29, 2018 21:31
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I started work on my garage after 2 trips to the hardware store. So far I've only identified 2 things I've still forgotten. I was hoping to get a quick "how wrong is this so far" check before I get too much further as this is my first time adding stuff to a panel. I pulled a permit for the work. The actual inspector did the paperwork which was pretty  since he said he never really does it, so he kept asking the clerk questions as he used her computer. Got one good tip from the clerk: round up. An extra unused outlet on the permit is like $1.50 now, but if you wind up installing more than are permitted it's a whole new $27 permit plus the outlet fee. The person behind me in line actually wound up doing that exact thing for an extra switched outlet. Everyone was nice and patient with my dumb questions. Plan is to drywall the entire garage.  Look this was good enough for the previous owners I don't see why I should have to put covers on things. (Decora covers are 1 of the things I forgot for the gfci outlets.) I also haven't started stapling wire yet, I assume I need something 8" from that box? The box is just holes at the back, nothing "clamping." Since this picture was taken I've added a run of 12/2 to the load terminals for the next box down, pigtailed and wire nutted the grounds.    This is the part I am least certain on. Is all I need that clamp screwed down? Reading the package it looks like I can put 2 12/2 runs in the one knockout, correct?
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Sep 30, 2018 15:14
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H110Hawk posted:
Yeah, you can have two 12/2s in one 3/8" romex connector. You'll need to fasten/staple the wire within 8" of the box and the cabinet. Are you just getting a few outlets on your permit? If the subpanel installation is getting inspected and you're on NEC 2017, you may need to get covers for the panel hot lugs (not that that would hold you up from sheetrocking). Try to avoid big loose loops in your romex just so you don't possibly get a wire pinned between sheetrock and the wall. I'm not quite clear on tandem breakers and new installations, but you can fix that later if it comes up in the inspection.
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Sep 30, 2018 16:05
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Blackbeer posted:Yeah, you can have two 12/2s in one 3/8" romex connector. You'll need to fasten/staple the wire within 8" of the box and the cabinet. Are you just getting a few outlets on your permit? If the subpanel installation is getting inspected and you're on NEC 2017, you may need to get covers for the panel hot lugs (not that that would hold you up from sheetrocking). Try to avoid big loose loops in your romex just so you don't possibly get a wire pinned between sheetrock and the wall. I'm not quite clear on tandem breakers and new installations, but you can fix that later if it comes up in the inspection. Thanks. I hope the double breakers aren't a problem as that's all I bought and based on how I want to break up the circuits it's going to be basically full. Panel was inspected up to the first 20a single breaker (removed now.) Not worried about having to toss on a lug cover, I assume that is some $1 bit. Given all of the wires would basically be coming from the bottom of the panel is there some trick to securing them? One giant staple? 
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Sep 30, 2018 18:03
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H110Hawk posted:Thanks. I hope the double breakers aren't a problem as that's all I bought and based on how I want to break up the circuits it's going to be basically full. You could put a 2x4 (flat against the outer wall) in the side stud space below the panel and nail to that if there's room. Sometime's I'll nail a staple to a stud and then fasten several wires to it with a nylon zip tie. If you have more than 6(? I forget the number) wires bundled together like this you'd have to derate, but this isn't something you'll have to worry about.
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Sep 30, 2018 19:37
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In today's adventures of "What can I fix to make this house look less like garbage so it sells quicker", I have a ceiling light that I completely forgot was broken.  The bulbs that are out are just burned out. The glass covering that screwed on was a casualty of a party a while back and now it's this ghetto fixture. Is it worth trying to find something to replace the covering, or should I replace the entire fixture? And if I have to replace the fixture, what are the chances of that not being a terribly difficult thing to do, ideally avoiding getting into an attic?
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Sep 30, 2018 21:07
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Just replace the fixture. It's like a 5 minute job and will not require attic access unless there's something truly bizarre going on. Standard cheap replacement should be like $15 at home depot.
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Sep 30, 2018 22:38
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opengl128 posted:Just replace the fixture. It's like a 5 minute job and will not require attic access unless there's something truly bizarre going on. Standard cheap replacement should be like $15 at home depot. Perfect place for a boob light
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Oct 1, 2018 03:32
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Get a cheap LED fixture from Costco and now your house is ~energy efficient~.
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Oct 1, 2018 04:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:Get a cheap LED fixture from Costco and now your house is ~energy efficient~. I already tell people it's energy efficient because half the lights don't work!
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Oct 1, 2018 11:17
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Messadiah posted:Perfect place for a boob light The ones in my computer room have taken a number of direct hits from VR handsets and aside from a few barely visible scratches they've come out just fine.
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Oct 2, 2018 04:38
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I want to do something that’s probably stupid. Please tell me why this will burn down my house. I have a detached garage. Power is run to that garage through an underground conduit about 50’ long from a sub panel on the opposite end of my house from the main panel. The main panel is 200 amp, the sub is 100. There appears to be 4 wires running to the garage on two 20 amp circuits. One runs all the lights and outlets, one is for an outlet by a sump pump (I have a weird garage). I want to install a heater in the garage that would pull 22A at 240v. I may also someday want an electric car charger. Can I repurpose those 4 wires into a 240v circuit to feed a third sub panel in the garage, which would then power the two 120v circuits and the new 240v for the heater? Here is a pic of the existing sub panel that feeds the garage and the junction box running into the conduit that runs out to the garage.  
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Oct 11, 2018 21:04
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Jealous Cow posted:I want to do something that’s probably stupid. Please tell me why this will burn down my house. How far from your main panel to the garage subpanel? That should be a tandem breaker at your main panel if you actually have a garage subpanel. Got a picture of the garage subpanel by the way? You'll probably need to pull more cable as that sump pump is most likely necessary and can't be removed, leave alone wanting a fast car charger.
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Oct 11, 2018 21:16
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I'm pretty sure you can't repurpose wires like that. You might be able to use them to pull new wires though (like, tape the new wire to the existing wire at one end, then yank the old wire out, pulling the new wire into place en route). The big question is how big your conduit is; if it's not big enough to meet code for 4x 6/0 THHN then I think you're stuck laying a new conduit. ...also you should probably use the wires to pull a rope, then tape the new wire to the rope, lube the hell out of it, and pull the rope out to pull the new wire into place.
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Oct 11, 2018 21:17
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kid sinister posted:How far from your main panel to the garage subpanel? Sorry, let me clarify: there is no garage sub panel. There is a sub panel, pictured, that feeds those two 20A circuit to the garage. So it goes: Main panel -> sub panel -> Two 20A circuits to garage I’d like to go: Main panel -> existing sub panel -> new garage sub panel -> Two 20A circuits and one 30 or 40A 240V circuit. Regarding the sump.. it isn’t even hooked up right now. The remediation system was installed because the previous owner wanted to use the space below the garage (yeah...) for storage and it gets a little wet during heavy rain. Unfortunately the drain tile system has been destroyed and I won’t be fixing it for the foreseeable future. TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm pretty sure you can't repurpose wires like that. You might be able to use them to pull new wires though (like, tape the new wire to the existing wire at one end, then yank the old wire out, pulling the new wire into place en route). The big question is how big your conduit is; if it's not big enough to meet code for 4x 6/0 THHN then I think you're stuck laying a new conduit. I'm pretty sure the trade size is 1", maybe 3/4. Assuming "6/0 THHN" is the column labeled "6" on this chart I should be good to go: http://www.elliottelectric.com/StaticPages/ElectricalReferences/ElectricalTables/Conduit_Fill_Table.aspx Jealous Cow fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Oct 11, 2018 |
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Oct 11, 2018 21:21
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That's not going to work, sorry. To run your heater, you'd need a 30A 240v circuit with nothing else on it. Even if you replace those 2 breakers with 1 240V one like your range uses you can't re-purpose those wires into running anything more than 20 amps, so you could only use a 20A 240V breaker which isn't enough to run your heater by itself, and then you'd lose all other power to the garage anyway since you can't share one hot leg of a 240V circuit to power another 120V one. I'd turn off power to those circuits and carefully try to take that junction box off the wall to see how big the conduit is. You may need to unscrew the cable clamp ring to pull it away. Put a flashlight at one end and look through the other end to see how straight it is. You are going to have to run 4x 8AWG conductors or better through it. That will let you hookup a 40amp subpanel. You also want to make sure that the new garage stuff + all the existing draw on you existing subpanel doesn't exceed the rating on the existing panel or the breaker in the main panel that powers the existing panel. Your dryer + range are in the subpanel and that's alot of power already, plus whatever else is out of frame in that photo.
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Oct 11, 2018 21:53
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Nevets posted:That's not going to work, sorry. To run your heater, you'd need a 30A 240v circuit with nothing else on it. Even if you replace those 2 breakers with 1 240V one like your range uses you can't re-purpose those wires into running anything more than 20 amps, so you could only use a 20A 240V breaker which isn't enough to run your heater by itself, and then you'd lose all other power to the garage anyway since you can't share one hot leg of a 240V circuit to power another 120V one. Thanks. The conduit size fits into a 1" "trade size" punch out if that helps. It sticks out of the wall several inches so I can measure the diameter in a bit. In addition to the range and dryer there are several outlets and kitchen lighting. I'll get a pic of that shortly as well.
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Oct 11, 2018 21:58
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Jealous Cow posted:I'm pretty sure the trade size is 1", maybe 3/4. Keep in mind that's the fill rate for a straight run (or a run with access at relevant corners). I ran 3x 6/0 THHN through 1" rigid metal conduit and it was a pain in the rear end; adding a single extra conductor might have made it infeasible. I can't imagine trying to do 4x 6/0 through .75". You might be able to do it through 1" if you have access at every turn or something, and assuming that the underground turns use gentle sweeping turns and not hard 90's. You'll definitely need one person pulling the wires and another person at the other end feeding them, though. And lots of lube.
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Oct 11, 2018 22:00
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Keep in mind that's the fill rate for a straight run (or a run with access at relevant corners). I ran 3x 6/0 THHN through 1" rigid metal conduit and it was a pain in the rear end; adding a single extra conductor might have made it infeasible. I can't imagine trying to do 4x 6/0 through .75". You might be able to do it through 1" if you have access at every turn or something, and assuming that the underground turns use gentle sweeping turns and not hard 90's. You'll definitely need one person pulling the wires and another person at the other end feeding them, though. And lots of lube. I'm reasonably certain it's either a straight run or a very gentle curve. If I trace a line from the spot where the conduit exits the house to where it enters the garage it's almost a straight line. Also, it enters the garage at the same elevation (remember, the garage has a basement) and goes immediate into a junction box where the two 20A circuits split, one up into the main level and one over to the sump. I'll try shining a light through it.
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Oct 11, 2018 22:02
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Oh, is the conduit not buried? I'm trying to figure out how else you'd have a 50' straight run that you can shine a light through...I guess if the interior ends of the conduit are below ground (because the interior of the house/garage are somewhat buried) then that's also a possibility. But hey, if there's no kinks in the conduit then that makes your job a lot easier.
TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Oct 11, 2018 |
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Oct 11, 2018 22:04
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Oh, is the conduit not buried? I'm trying to figure out how else you'd have a 50' straight run that you can shine a light through...I guess if the interior ends of the conduit are below ground then that's also a possibility. But hey, if there's no kinks in the conduit then that makes your job a lot easier. It is buried, and the interior ends, both of them, are below grade. My garage has a basement. The parking surface is a 4" slab on steel reinforced concrete H beams. So if I were to stand in the garage basement and start drilling toward the house, I'd come out in the house's basement. The conduit follows that course.
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Oct 11, 2018 22:08
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Oh, is the conduit not buried? I'm trying to figure out how else you'd have a 50' straight run that you can shine a light through...I guess if the interior ends of the conduit are below ground (because the interior of the house/garage are somewhat buried) then that's also a possibility. But hey, if there's no kinks in the conduit then that makes your job a lot easier. I was about to say, all of you are assuming that the buried conduit isn't full of dirt, rust or tree roots...
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Oct 11, 2018 22:10
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kid sinister posted:I was about to say, all of you are assuming that the buried conduit isn't full of dirt, rust or tree roots... The wiring is only 3 years old, so they very recently got 4 conductors through there somehow.
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Oct 11, 2018 22:11
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