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Goober Peas posted:I would avoid the '06 since that was the first year of that body style. Common issues: headlights/dash lights flicker, will not turn on/off; Rear brake calipers lock up; exterior door handles break. Ah ok, thanks. Pretty rare car here (story of my life) so I might just go and check it out to see if I even like it before I spend any more time looking. One owner car that's been cared for by the looks of it.
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Sep 28, 2018 15:42
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MrOnBicycle posted:Ah ok, thanks. Pretty rare car here (story of my life) so I might just go and check it out to see if I even like it before I spend any more time looking. One owner car that's been cared for by the looks of it. Outside of the headlights/dash lights, they're pretty reliable. Everything else is minor. Rear calipers usually = didn't use the parking brake ever. Door handles are cheap. I would follow up on whether the spark plugs/coils/wires have been replaced. At 100k they're due. And I'd run if they replaced the plugs but not the wires. That V/6 is reliable, but a really bad design maintenance wise.
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Sep 28, 2018 16:10
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2008 hino 338. Manual trans, and the 260hp engine. Don't know what the engine model or whatever is, just that its "the 260HP engine". It redlines at like 2500 rpm. In first, second and third gear, accelerating, particularly if I'm going up a bit of an incline (but not facing downhill I noticed today), it'll start to shudder, hesitate etc when I hit 2000+ rpm. Sometimes when I'm on the highway it'll happen just flooring it, not necessarily going up hill, but still under heavy load (Floored that poo poo, trying to get up to speed after a stop), and I can let off the pedal for a second and that cures it. But not if I'm going up hill a little bit. Its a diesel, so its got to be a fuel delivery problem.... I try to get the fuel filter changed with every oil change, as recommended by the dealer, and one of the fuel tanks (two tanks) is brand new, so its *probably* not sludge and poo poo getting sucked in to the lines or whatever. Though I'm not sure how the fuel tank set up works. Like I don't know if the engine draws from both tanks simultaneously, or if the engine draws from tank A while tank A gets replenished by tank B. The fuel filter is on the driver side, and the older tank is on the driver side so I suppose it could be sludge and poo poo, but it happened even after changing the filter.
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Sep 28, 2018 21:00
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wesleywillis posted:2008 hino 338. Manual trans, and the 260hp engine. Don't know what the engine model or whatever is, just that its "the 260HP engine". How many miles? I would guess rail pressure is too low while its shuddering under high load. Maybe a worn relief valve or a wearing injection pump. This will be kinda hard to diagnose being that you have ruled out the fuel filter.
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Sep 29, 2018 00:39
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:1985 Chevrolet C20 truck question. Finally not ungodly hot and humid outside, so I grabbed some b-12 carb cleaner at autozone, doused the carb and tried to fire it up. After a few almost starts, it fired up and stayed running. Drove it around the block without any problems except on a single hard acceleration that caused it to stutter again. Seems like there’s something going on with fuel delivery, but since it’s a third vehicle I’m not too worried about it for now. Will try to diagnose and repair later.
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Sep 29, 2018 01:01
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rdb posted:How many miles? I would guess rail pressure is too low while its shuddering under high load. Maybe a worn relief valve or a wearing injection pump. This will be kinda hard to diagnose being that you have ruled out the fuel filter. About 320,000 km. So whatever that is in freedom units, I don't know off hand.
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Sep 29, 2018 14:44
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MrOnBicycle posted:I tried the chat thread but it's probably more of a stupid question: I will ALWAYS hate this generation of Sonata because of the third brake light. It is UNGODLY hard to change it. The shop I worked at would charge an hour of labor to change the damned thing.
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Sep 29, 2018 16:28
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So both my 1997 F250 rear, back leaf spring hangers are just starting to rust through. Do I need to do anything special to compress the leaf springs during the hanger swap like you do with coil springs?
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Sep 29, 2018 17:26
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Goober Peas posted:Outside of the headlights/dash lights, they're pretty reliable. Everything else is minor. Rear calipers usually = didn't use the parking brake ever. Door handles are cheap. I would follow up on whether the spark plugs/coils/wires have been replaced. At 100k they're due. And I'd run if they replaced the plugs but not the wires. That V/6 is reliable, but a really bad design maintenance wise. 0toShifty posted:I will ALWAYS hate this generation of Sonata because of the third brake light. It is UNGODLY hard to change it. The shop I worked at would charge an hour of labor to change the damned thing. I'll be sure to check the third brake light, haha.
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Sep 29, 2018 17:28
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kid sinister posted:So both my 1997 F250 rear, back leaf spring hangers are just starting to rust through. Do I need to do anything special to compress the leaf springs during the hanger swap like you do with coil springs? I'd just put a jack under the diff (you've got the frame supported on stands obviously) and once you got the bolts out, just lower it a bit, when you need to put the bolts back through the springs, just jack it back up till they're even.
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Sep 29, 2018 17:37
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Not sure where to put this, but I figure the AI Stupid Questions peeps will know what's up. Last weekend, my Briggs & Stratton mower started revving down, then back up. Seemed to go away (or get slightly better) when I was moving and cutting grass, and get worse when just idling and not moving. I noticed a metallic pinging noise at one point. Then it died, and wouldn't start. An hour later, it started, but same thing, revving down, then back up, repeat. Had about a half tank of gas. This weekend I changed the oil, replaced the spark plug, filled the tank, added some seafoam. It ran fine for about 5 minutes, then started revving down, then back up, here's a video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/u2tga0tj059a8nh/Video%20Sep%2029%2C%201%2034%2022%20PM.mov?dl=0 Here's what the spark plug looked like (since been replaced): https://www.dropbox.com/s/5t8js4rv4wabkt3/Photo%20Sep%2029%2C%2010%2047%2050%20AM.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/27gyk3cm9iqedn5/Photo%20Sep%2029%2C%2010%2047%2019%20AM.jpg?dl=0 I guess next things to check are air filter, and fuel delivery? I do light motorcycle maintenance (oil changes, brake pads, etc) so I have some tools and I'm happy to get my hands dirty but I mostly don't know what I'm doing.
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Sep 29, 2018 20:05
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I'm a dumb idiot baby when it comes to car repairs. I have a 1999 lincoln town car that i got from my grandfather that passed away. the bank 2 sensor 2 o2 sensor went bad according to the computer. I cannot for the life of me figure out where the gently caress this is because I can't seem to locate a repair manual for free online. Does anyone have a resource or a chilton pdf or some kind of repair manual for this old rear end car? I tried the autozone link and they don't have one and that carfiche place seems to be a dead website from the resources thread. the car is cool and rad and has literally every single luxury feature possible to put on a car but it was sitting out in the az sun for a year after he died so i've been having to slowly replace stuff. i learned how to replace a power window because the first time i tried to roll it down it broke :V
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Sep 29, 2018 21:46
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Sensor 2 is usually downstream of the catalytic converter. Follow the exhaust and look for a thing sticking out the side of the pipe with a wire running into it, sensor 2 is (probably) the last one.
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Sep 29, 2018 22:14
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epalm posted:Not sure where to put this, but I figure the AI Stupid Questions peeps will know what's up. We do have a small engines thread:https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3302145&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1
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Sep 30, 2018 00:17
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Geoj posted:Sensor 2 is usually downstream of the catalytic converter. Follow the exhaust and look for a thing sticking out the side of the pipe with a wire running into it, sensor 2 is (probably) the last one. Also a Haynes book will have 90% of the info for most jobs you're likely to do, for about $25 at a parts store.
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Sep 30, 2018 00:29
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Also here's a thread specific to the Panther platform cars (Crown Vic, Grand Marquis, Town Car): https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3536076 These cars are simple, rarely changed in significant ways, and are incredibly well understood and documented due to their popularity with fleets. It's a great car to learn on because parts are cheap and mostly pretty easy to get to.
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Sep 30, 2018 01:31
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There are sites like this with repair manuals for cheap: https://www.emanualonline.com/Cars/Lincoln/Town-Car.htm It sucks that they don't have any preview of sorts, because I bought one that I apparently already had for free.... Oh well. At least I think it was a bit more updated.
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Sep 30, 2018 08:05
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kid sinister posted:We do have a small engines thread:https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3302145&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1 Thanks!
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Sep 30, 2018 18:22
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Is it possible, if you have a set of tires thats unevenly worn, to do the following: Put not horribly worn set of tires on, get alignment. Put unevenly worn tires back on car and (over the course of a hundreds or a few thousand KM) wear them "evenly"? Like get them to the point where they're relatively evenly worn? I'm not having any issues with my car, or tires, just wondering.
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Sep 30, 2018 20:16
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What's the best way to fix/de-rust small rusty spots scattered throughout your car? poo poo like this: I know that it's not going to "go away" nor can I completely eliminate it. I just want to reduce its spread. Just dab at it with match-coloured touch-up paint? Usually with a rusty frying pan I'd attack it with salt and vegetable oil but obviously this '07 Corolla isn't a frying pan. I've had tiny little spots like this open right up into bigger patches of rot after a single winter on my previous vehicles. melon cat fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Sep 30, 2018 |
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Sep 30, 2018 21:14
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melon cat posted:What's the proper way to address small rusty spots scattered throughout your car? poo poo like this: Touch-up paint will cover it up for a couple months, but it will continue to rust and will break though it even worse than before. To fix it permanently, you have go grind it down to clean metal, then primer it and repaint.
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Sep 30, 2018 21:17
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wesleywillis posted:Is it possible, if you have a set of tires thats unevenly worn, to do the following: Depends on the type of wear. Heavy wear on one side of the tread maybe, but even perfectly aligned cars usually have some camber, so you'd probably need to flip the tires on the rims so the previous inner edge is on the outside. If you've got severe chopping, though, even once it's aligned/balanced the existing unevenness will make the tire bounce up and down and perpetuate the wear pattern. Either way, the clean set of tires is probably unnecessary; the wheel geometry is fixed relative to the body, so unless you've got like 10mm different height between sides/axles the car's not gonne sit different enough to matter. Ultimately, if the uneven wear is so bad you're trying to cancel it out, you're probably best off just replacing the tires rather than trying to polish a turd.
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Sep 30, 2018 21:45
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thanks for all your suggestions and help!! the upside is i got my car up on the ramps (very scary!!!!) and then got under there and replaced the sensor. the downside is the god damned pack rats ate the wires leading to that sensor!!! this feels beyond my ability to diy
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Sep 30, 2018 23:08
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If you're willing to buy some tools and spend some time practicing with extra wire / connectors, crimping is not the end of the world: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5LBf19MqPk Given how close the damage is to the connector itself, I'd look at buying a pigtail to replace the whole connector with, but I also live in the desert where heat cycling alone makes it nearly impossible to re-pin those connectors.
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Sep 30, 2018 23:35
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Don't o2 sensors have some galvanic weirdness that makes it not recommended to crimp repair their wiring? Or is that only between the sensor and plug?
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Sep 30, 2018 23:44
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IOwnCalculus posted:If you're willing to buy some tools and spend some time practicing with extra wire / connectors, crimping is not the end of the world: Yeah I was looking at somehting like this,  I just didn't pull on that wire to see how much room i had to work with. I have stripper and crimper tools so theoretically i could fix it but this is also my first time really working on a car. Also because jesus christ getting the car up the ramps was *terrifying* cause I have a dirt driveway cause I live in arizona.
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Sep 30, 2018 23:46
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Fender Anarchist posted:Don't o2 sensors have some galvanic weirdness that makes it not recommended to crimp repair their wiring? Or is that only between the sensor and plug? You shouldn't crimp two dissimilar metals together. Wiring in O2 connectors are all crimped (for various reasons, including vibration resistance.)
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Oct 1, 2018 01:26
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Goober Peas posted:Outside of the headlights/dash lights, they're pretty reliable. Everything else is minor. Rear calipers usually = didn't use the parking brake ever. Door handles are cheap. I would follow up on whether the spark plugs/coils/wires have been replaced. At 100k they're due. And I'd run if they replaced the plugs but not the wires. That V/6 is reliable, but a really bad design maintenance wise. Went to see the car and it was dirty and worn. I realized that since I never drive automatics, I don't really know how they should feel except smooth. When starting the car I heard slight knocking noise for a few seconds than then went away for the remainder of the test (I think some people have problem with timing chain rattle?). Then I put it into D from P and the whole car "bumped" or "juddered". Am I wrong in thinking that this is a big no no when it comes to automatics (unless it's the mounts)? The gearbox was very slow to respond when flooring it as well, and generally the car did not perform anywhere near the ~7 second 0-60. I watched a ton of 0-60 / general driving videos before trying it. Reminded me of one video where it took ages for the car to reach Oh and the AC didn't work. Can't expect too much from a cheap car but boy did I run away from that one. Though I must say, automatics are damned comfortable and V6s sound drat good. I've been stuck with I4 FWD manuals my whole life, which kinda explains why I'm impressed with something like that. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Oct 1, 2018 |
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Oct 1, 2018 12:37
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melon cat posted:What's the best way to fix/de-rust small rusty spots scattered throughout your car? poo poo like this: Maybe try some rust-converting paint. It will look like rear end but should stop the rust from spreading at least.
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Oct 2, 2018 00:23
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Deteriorata posted:Touch-up paint will cover it up for a couple months, but it will continue to rust and will break though it even worse than before. To fix it permanently, you have go grind it down to clean metal, then primer it and repaint. This is the right answer, and is easy.
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Oct 2, 2018 02:40
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Look to have cool white lights on my prius. Xenon or LED? Xenon/LED from AliExpress from China or Sylvania from AutoZone? Is there a difference? Based on all the videos I seen for Xenon, it looks like you have to attach some battery pack or something? But when I Was in AutoZone and I asked the guy about one of the Sylvania Xenon lights, he said he doens't think there's anything that needs to be done, just plug and play? Any thoughts or recommendations would be great.
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Oct 2, 2018 03:04
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Xenon can refer to HIDs or it can be a marketing gimmick (like Sylvania's). If you want to stop using halogen bulbs, you need to upgrade the entire housing, or do a bunch of research (Pruis forums are a good place to start) on whether there are any LED bulbs that are actually interchangeable with the halogen. Most of what's out there will reflect like dogshit and blind everyone. They don't emit light the same way the halogen bulbs do, but some companies do a decent job of faking it. There may/may not be any that'll work for your car. Do not try to use HID type bulbs in the halogen housing. There are ZERO bulbs that'll be interchangeable without making you "that guy" on the road. Cheap bulbs that promise the world can cause problems like "melting wires" or "fire."
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Oct 2, 2018 03:41
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My son has an ‘03 Acura TL that needs a new low-beam lamp. It appears I can get either halogen or HID. I’ve never dealt with HIDs; how would I know what’s on there? At least one video showed a driver/ballast ahead of the bulb...
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Oct 2, 2018 04:25
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Does the remaining headlight look like a typical headlamp bulb (yellowish-white) and reach full brightness immediately, or does it have a bluish tinge to it (and take several seconds to reach full brightness, while shifting color a bit in the process, probably starting out as pinkish-purple for a split second when switched on)? If the former, halogen. If the latter, probably a D2S bulb. The halogen bulb will also have a right angle connector on the back of the bulb, while the HID version will be straight out. Either way, replace both of them. Even more important if it has HIDs, as the colors and light output shift very noticeably over time. Halogens dim over time, but I still recommend replacing both because both bulbs see equal use (therefore the other probably isn't far behind in lifespan). Also, HIDs often start going off and on a bit before they burn out, or come on for a second or two once they're dead (generally in a very pink color - if they haven't popped). Single filament halogens are usually an all or nothing deal. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Oct 2, 2018 |
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Oct 2, 2018 05:23
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Thank you. My son thinks that they’re HIDs; I think they’re halogen. They seem to me to be in the warmer spectrum (yellow-ish), and the driver’s side one went out all at once, no blinking. I have to pull the bulbs to be sure (which is a real PITA on this car)
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Oct 2, 2018 13:02
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kid sinister posted:What if I buy new foam cloth? Does that attach the same way? Clean the old card off, hit it with some 3M spray adhesive and stretch the new stuff over. Cut off the excess.
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Oct 2, 2018 14:17
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PainterofCrap posted:Thank you. From a bit of googling it seems like the '99-03 TLs are all HID, but they're one of the rare vehicles with reflector-based HID lighting rather than the projector setup that's basically standard for HIDs so they look a lot like a halogen bulb when not in use. You'll need D2R bulbs for it, and ballast failures are apparently a common issue due to water intrusion. It's one of the few cases I've ever seen multiple forum posts from people wanting to convert to halogen from HID rather than the other way around. Obviously of course I'd recommend you pull the bulb anyways to be 100% sure rather than relying on the random googling of a bored internet person.
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Oct 2, 2018 15:37
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Those are the ones that turn pink when the ballast fails. I've replaced a few of them. They're mounted on the bottom of the headlight assembly.
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Oct 2, 2018 16:38
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I hate this truck. 1997 Ford F250 HD. It had a 5th wheel tailgate once upon a time that was beat to hell, which also beat the hell out of my back bed corners. I'm trying to put a brand new regular tailgate on it. I used a ratchet strap to pull the bottoms back into shape, but now the top corners are too close! I'm trying to figure out how to move the top of the back right corner outward again. I tried to put a ratchet strap around a tree, but the truck's suspension took all of the strap tension instead of that corner. Any ideas?
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Oct 2, 2018 23:09
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kid sinister posted:I hate this truck. 1997 Ford F250 HD. It had a 5th wheel tailgate once upon a time that was beat to hell, which also beat the hell out of my back bed corners. I'm trying to put a brand new regular tailgate on it. I used a ratchet strap to pull the bottoms back into shape, but now the top corners are too close! I'm trying to figure out how to move the top of the back right corner outward again. I tried to put a ratchet strap around a tree, but the truck's suspension took all of the strap tension instead of that corner. Any ideas? Or, if you really hate the truck, skip the 2x4. If that doesn't work, a hi-lift / farm jack should be able to sort it out. You'll have to add some careful bracing to protect the paint and (maybe) extend the reach.
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Oct 2, 2018 23:21
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