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Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

What did you do to your VFR today?

I have a project 97 VFR now, needed a fork rebuild. So I dug into my seemingly endless supply of F3 forks and put the internals into the VFR forks with some Racetech springs and 5wt oil. 4th/5th gen VFRs are cartridge forks but adjustable only for preload. Now they're adjustable for preload and rebound, and with the new springs are no longer super soft.

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the bsd boys
Aug 8, 2011
Probation
Can't post for 375 days!
new lights and a Yoshimura tail tidy kit went on today.



goodbye, pumpkin lights and uhhhh star ship enterprise engine section. that's just about it for cosmetic stuff! over the winter I'll get into the real fun stuff

GnarlyCharlie4u
Sep 23, 2007

I have an unhealthy obsession with motorcycles.

Proof

Gorson posted:

What did you do to your VFR today?

I have a project 97 VFR now, needed a fork rebuild. So I dug into my seemingly endless supply of F3 forks and put the internals into the VFR forks with some Racetech springs and 5wt oil. 4th/5th gen VFRs are cartridge forks but adjustable only for preload. Now they're adjustable for preload and rebound, and with the new springs are no longer super soft.



oh hey VFR buddy.

I discovered a thing today. Aftermarket well nuts sort of suck, but they don't have to.



Got both sides on. Now all I need is the tail and center.



not pictured: the subframe bolts had a bunch of metal from stripped frame threads stuck in them about 3/4 of the way up. I didn't have any dies the right size so I had to file all the metal out by hand and chase it with one of the subframe bolt nuts. It worked out pretty good. There seemed to be enough thread left in the frame for the bolts to get a good grab so I'm not terribly worried.

Shelvocke
Aug 6, 2013

Microwave Engraver
I don't know if its the photographs but that's a really nice softer pastel-y red on a lovely bike

GnarlyCharlie4u
Sep 23, 2007

I have an unhealthy obsession with motorcycles.

Proof

Shelvocke posted:

I don't know if its the photographs but that's a really nice softer pastel-y red on a lovely bike

Its the photos. There's actually 2 reds on that bike: factory Honda red, and slightly more orange Chinese knock off fairing red.
Everything but the left large fairing (and soon the tail) is the latter.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
DST coming and I'm over the stock piece of poo poo ktm headlight. designed and 3d printed a housing for a pair of baja designs squadron leds. sport beam driving for low, pro driving beam for high. the highbeam switch was modified for both circuits to be on months ago. It retains the factory aiming system as well.



Dagen H
Mar 19, 2009

Hogertrafikomlaggningen
Dude.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That's pretty sweet.

pokie
Apr 27, 2008

IT HAPPENED!


This.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

finally got my 1290 SAR back from having the heated seat + grips activated. also installed a touratech skidplate while feasting on chick fil a and PBR in my parking lot :hellyeah:

Slim Pickens
Jan 12, 2007

Grimey Drawer

cursedshitbox posted:

DST coming and I'm over the stock piece of poo poo ktm headlight. designed and 3d printed a housing for a pair of baja designs squadron leds. sport beam driving for low, pro driving beam for high. the highbeam switch was modified for both circuits to be on months ago. It retains the factory aiming system as well.





God drat, patent that poo poo and sell it.

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

cursedshitbox posted:

DST coming and I'm over the stock piece of poo poo ktm headlight. designed and 3d printed a housing for a pair of baja designs squadron leds. sport beam driving for low, pro driving beam for high. the highbeam switch was modified for both circuits to be on months ago. It retains the factory aiming system as well.





fully sik, m8

I welded up some brackets for a buddy's van, but goddamn, I'm starting to have bad thoughts about a 790 Duke.

Jazzzzz
May 16, 2002
Found out the hard way that my Abba sky lift is maybe 2cm too tall to line up with the swingarm bolt on my FZ-09 where it it clamps onto the bike, and I didn't have anything I could roll the bike onto to raise it up easily. Had to dig out the old piece of poo poo bent paddock stand I still have kicking around. I'll pick up some 1x6 the next time I'm at Lowe's.

First service: oil + filter change, throttle body sync (they were already in sync, wasted effort), check various cables/linkages/etc., check for steering head bearing play, clean and lube chain, and a general cleaning. I had to use a breaker bar to loosen the oil drain plug and I drat near tore the oil filter trying to get it off. WTF do they torque those things to at the factory?

Took it out for a ride to get the new suspension dialed in, ended up going 2 clicks further out on the high speed and low speed compression on the shock. I will probably go a couple of clicks out on the fork too but I forgot to bring a hex key with me so I couldn't adjust it while I was out.

Things still to do: install axle + frame sliders, install accessory USB port and phone mount, replace brake pads with EBC HH, order and modify a new set of radiator end cap "wings" where the turn signals mount so the Proton flushmount signals I have actually mount flush instead of just sitting on top of the holes for the OEM signals. Over the winter I may take a crack at doing a vinyl wrap.

Duck_King
Sep 5, 2003

leader.bmp


Got my new fairing installed today. Took awhile and some figuring out, but it's solid and looks great. I may need to purchase the anti-buffetting kit though. We'll see when I test it on the freeway. Also added some LED turn signals and headlight.

Shelvocke
Aug 6, 2013

Microwave Engraver
I'm biking down to spend a month in the Sahara later this year as part of a larger trip, and one of the things I've battled with has been getting a lighting/front fairing solution I like. Thumper vibration seems to be anathema to filament bulbs, and they chuck out mediocre light in any case, especially on the xr's lovely stock stator.

My old rallyraid fairing was full of holes so I did some (sloppy) fiberglass repair and some (even sloppier) painting to at least get it in the same colour spectrum as the rest of the bike. Then I built an aluminium frame inside it and a mounting kit, and bolted some LED lamps to it.



The result is a comically bright lighting system and better wind protection. And when I say comical I mean the 36w led, where the 36w filament bulbs produced a barely legal firefly glow, scorches the eyeballs of all those with the temerity to gaze upon it. I'll need to make some sort of shroud; temporarily a rubber flap is doing little to protect the public.

There's also a little storage pouch Infront of the handlebars now, which is nice.

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

Shelvocke posted:

I'm biking down to spend a month in the Sahara later this year as part of a larger trip, and one of the things I've battled with has been getting a lighting/front fairing solution I like. Thumper vibration seems to be anathema to filament bulbs, and they chuck out mediocre light in any case, especially on the xr's lovely stock stator.

My old rallyraid fairing was full of holes so I did some (sloppy) fiberglass repair and some (even sloppier) painting to at least get it in the same colour spectrum as the rest of the bike. Then I built an aluminium frame inside it and a mounting kit, and bolted some LED lamps to it.



The result is a comically bright lighting system and better wind protection. And when I say comical I mean the 36w led, where the 36w filament bulbs produced a barely legal firefly glow, scorches the eyeballs of all those with the temerity to gaze upon it. I'll need to make some sort of shroud; temporarily a rubber flap is doing little to protect the public.

There's also a little storage pouch Infront of the handlebars now, which is nice.

That’s pretty great. Are you planning on doing a lot of riding at night or just want to be safe just in case?

Shelvocke
Aug 6, 2013

Microwave Engraver

builds character posted:

That’s pretty great. Are you planning on doing a lot of riding at night or just want to be safe just in case?

Bit of both. I also commute before sunrise and after sunset on country roads so more light always helps.

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

Shelvocke posted:

Bit of both. I also commute before sunrise and after sunset on country roads so more light always helps.

Nice. Take pictures of your trip please.

GnarlyCharlie4u
Sep 23, 2007

I have an unhealthy obsession with motorcycles.

Proof


Got the rest of the fairings on. Slowly but surely its coming together.
Battery, seat, and tailpipe left and it should be all set!

Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

Fixed a flat.

"It would be bad if I got a flat when they're doing all this construction here in the parking garage where I love to park," I said. This is how I got a flat last time. I'm so glad I was on the Ninja 250 and not the GN 125, or I'd still be there. I forgot to put rubber cement on the tar straw when I drove it into the tire, though.


GnarlyCharlie4u posted:



Got the rest of the fairings on. Slowly but surely its coming together.
Battery, seat, and tailpipe left and it should be all set!

Looking goooood.

60 Hertz Jig
May 21, 2006
Went to the bank today and came out to find a nice bulge in my front tire. I could barely feel it while riding until I knew it was there, so it could have been there for a while..PSA to actually give your bike a once-over before hopping on and riding away I guess.

I was wanting something knobbier anyway so off came the old and on with the new!







Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

What the hell was that? It's like a tree gall for tires.

Did you see what was on the other side when the tire came off?

60 Hertz Jig
May 21, 2006
Nah, I was just happy enough to get it taken care of that I left the shop without checking. The tech didn't offer up anything other than he knifed the bulge to make sure it never got resold. Probably should have taken the tire and tried to warranty it.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



I added a pair of helibars this weekend, then rode 280 miles with them. They raise the bars 1.6", and they're 1" wider, which doesn't sound like much but it made a huge difference in how my wrists feel on longer rides. I felt less confident on the bike at first, I'm not used to the more upright position, but by the end of the weekend they felt normal to me. I'm guessing they wouldn't be ideal on the track, but since I'm 100% street right now I'm really liking them. The only problem is gloves bump my mirrors now at full lock, which I didn't think would be a problem but it surprised me doing a uturn, and also backing down my driveway. I can bend the stalks of my mirrors farther away from my hands, but the mirror part won't bend more to compensate for that, so I guess I'll just punch the mirrors every so often.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
I bought an 07 WR250F a few weeks back and haven't had too much time to ride it yet other than a few times around the neighborhood. I bought it mostly for woods/trail riding but we have a lot of forest roads out here in Washington so the previous owner also made it street legal to ride those national forest service roads without hassle. When I transferred the title, I kept it plated for street use. I'm trying to get it back to 100% street legal status so that everything is in order (bike wise) when I go take my endorsement test. I've heard they do an inspection of your bike before allowing you to use it for testing, especially for dual sport bikes to ensure they meet street legal requirements.

I'm pretty sure the PO used a tusk/baja conversion kit but removed the horn and mirror which are both cheap and easy to replace. I'm also considering a brake switch for the front. The only problem is that the tail light isn't currently functioning as a brake light despite having a switch on the rear. It only runs as a running light and doesn't fluctuate with braking. I would prefer it run with a dimmer running light and a brighter brake light. I tried operating it with the bike off and running and no difference. I'm not sure if its a matter of reconfiguring the three wires coming from the tail light to the three wires of the harness or something possibly wrong with the switch. Brake switch is connected to both rear brake switch connectors.

I've pulled the stock wiring diagram for the WR from the owners manual, the wiring diagram for the enduro conversion wiring harness, and for the individual tail light. Whoever wired/rewired this didn't quite meet my idea of "quality craftsmanship" but I'm not about to pull apart all the wiring harnesses and rewire the bike because the wires are longer than ideal and they used tape in certain areas etc. I don't think they even thought to shorten any of the wires, just plugged them in from stock and tied everything up in a giant bundled mess.

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

Verman posted:

I bought an 07 WR250F a few weeks back and haven't had too much time to ride it yet other than a few times around the neighborhood. I bought it mostly for woods/trail riding but we have a lot of forest roads out here in Washington so the previous owner also made it street legal to ride those national forest service roads without hassle. When I transferred the title, I kept it plated for street use. I'm trying to get it back to 100% street legal status so that everything is in order (bike wise) when I go take my endorsement test. I've heard they do an inspection of your bike before allowing you to use it for testing, especially for dual sport bikes to ensure they meet street legal requirements.

I'm pretty sure the PO used a tusk/baja conversion kit but removed the horn and mirror which are both cheap and easy to replace. I'm also considering a brake switch for the front. The only problem is that the tail light isn't currently functioning as a brake light despite having a switch on the rear. It only runs as a running light and doesn't fluctuate with braking. I would prefer it run with a dimmer running light and a brighter brake light. I tried operating it with the bike off and running and no difference. I'm not sure if its a matter of reconfiguring the three wires coming from the tail light to the three wires of the harness or something possibly wrong with the switch. Brake switch is connected to both rear brake switch connectors.

I've pulled the stock wiring diagram for the WR from the owners manual, the wiring diagram for the enduro conversion wiring harness, and for the individual tail light. Whoever wired/rewired this didn't quite meet my idea of "quality craftsmanship" but I'm not about to pull apart all the wiring harnesses and rewire the bike because the wires are longer than ideal and they used tape in certain areas etc. I don't think they even thought to shorten any of the wires, just plugged them in from stock and tied everything up in a giant bundled mess.

Do you have a multimeter? If yes, you can check to see what's happening when you hit the brakes - if nothing, then it's not that. Did you see this?
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/rm-rider-exchange/how-to-install-tusk-enduro-lighting-kit-video/

Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009

Slide Hammer posted:

What the hell was that? It's like a tree gall for tires.

Did you see what was on the other side when the tire came off?
It's damage to the inner lining of the tire which allows air pressure to seep into the layers under the tread. The tread isn't designed to hold pressure, so it bulges out like that and can potentially go pop. Probably not a huge deal on bike tires since there's not a lot of air in them, but wear eye and ear protection and work on the opposite side of the tire when you air it down because if it ruptures it can go boom and fling rubber fragments at high speed, depending on how big the internal damage is.

Now if you see something like this you run very fast, very far away.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

builds character posted:

Do you have a multimeter? If yes, you can check to see what's happening when you hit the brakes - if nothing, then it's not that. Did you see this?
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/rm-rider-exchange/how-to-install-tusk-enduro-lighting-kit-video/

I do have a multi meter. It was late and it must have been the gas fumes that didn't make me think of using it.

I've seen that video, and another almost identical to it. Its hooked up exactly as they describe. The three tail light wires (Yellow/Black/Red) come out of the light and into a plastic housing which goes into another plastic housing (Black/red/black). Two pink rear brake switch wires are connected to the 2 black rear brake switch wires and they have no polarity so its not supposed to matter which goes to which. Everything is hooked up according to how they have it in the diagram. I even unplugged wires in the system to check for faulty connections. Part of me thinks the three brake light wires going into the plastic harness are in the wrong order but I don't want to just start swapping connections all willy nilly. I'll be the first to admit I'm not the greatest with wiring/electronics.

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

Verman posted:

I do have a multi meter. It was late and it must have been the gas fumes that didn't make me think of using it.

I've seen that video, and another almost identical to it. Its hooked up exactly as they describe. The three tail light wires (Yellow/Black/Red) come out of the light and into a plastic housing which goes into another plastic housing (Black/red/black). Two pink rear brake switch wires are connected to the 2 black rear brake switch wires and they have no polarity so its not supposed to matter which goes to which. Everything is hooked up according to how they have it in the diagram. I even unplugged wires in the system to check for faulty connections. Part of me thinks the three brake light wires going into the plastic harness are in the wrong order but I don't want to just start swapping connections all willy nilly. I'll be the first to admit I'm not the greatest with wiring/electronics.

meh, I am the PO in this thread now... I have tested stuff out for a LED rear brake light without any real documentation just by trying out all the various combinations of wires. Worst case you have to replace a fuse.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

plugged some fueling dongles into my SAR because I am a boob and hate money

also installed an altrider brake pedal which I like a lot

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

Broke it. Suzuki reliability>Yamaha reliability.

GnarlyCharlie4u
Sep 23, 2007

I have an unhealthy obsession with motorcycles.

Proof


All done. Ready to run.

Chris Knight
Jun 5, 2002

me @ ur posts


Fun Shoe
Noice

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

builds character posted:

meh, I am the PO in this thread now... I have tested stuff out for a LED rear brake light without any real documentation just by trying out all the various combinations of wires. Worst case you have to replace a fuse.



Success! I used my multi meter to determine the switch was indeed working. Next, I removed the wires from the tail/brake light from their plastic housing and tried rearranging them to get the running light/brake light operating. I only blew 2 fuses in the process but realized that I needed to keep the yellow (ground wire) in place and swap the red and black wires which control the tail/brake lights. At first it still wasn't working but then I noticed the light flickering which led me to believe there was a short or a bad connection somewhere. Two of the three wire connectors were in bad shape so I took that opportunity to shorten the 12-16" of excess wiring coming from the brake light to put the connectors on clean fresh wire. When I installed them back into the plastic housing, everything was bright and functional with no flicker and the battery area was much cleaner without an extra foot and a half of wiring.

I haven't had a bunch of time to ride since I bought it as work has been crazy busy and my weekends full but I've been able to tidy up a few things that bugged me about the bike when I got it. I used a heat gun on the plastics and brought them back to life. Oiled the chain. Reinstalled the hot start lever that the PO removed. Installed the quick detach for the battery tender. Lubed/adjusted the clutch lever & cable which is really smooth now and doesn't have nearly as much play. Repositioned some of the controls for the enduro kit on the bars to accommodate the hot start lever.

The PO also said the bike didn't like to sit and idle/would die so I decided to reset the air/fuel mixture to stock and readjust the idle. Now she starts up immediately, and will sit and purr without dying. I need to pick up oil/filter and an extra air filter or two and boots. I probably should buy some boots.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

got rid of most of the emissions Bull poo poo on the SAR. installed rottweiler's fueling dongles, new air filter, and this altrider brake pedal:



then rode it around an hour through the first real rain of the season here in OR last night around midnight. rain mode rules so very very much as does the alpinestars valparasio gear :D

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Went to a big empty parking lot and practiced road test stuff and general riding. Rode around for maybe an hour or two practicing all kinds of stuff.

New issue though. I was getting ready to leave and came to a stop only to realize my rear brake stopped working.

I get off and take a look. PO installed the rear brake switch when he converted it to Street legal. He reinstalled the rear brake line rubbing against the exhaust. After riding for an hour, the exhaust got hot enough to melt through the line. I'll be looking for a new rear line, likely braided steel and install it as to avoid rubbing against the exhaust.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007



I'm not an expert, but I think there are multiple very good reasons why you don't want your brake line touching / rubbing against your exhaust

Fifty Three
Oct 29, 2007

MomJeans420 posted:

I'm not an expert, but I think there are multiple very good reasons why you don't want your brake line touching / rubbing against your exhaust
nah dawg, keeping your brake fluid warmed up ensures it's always pressurized so you get better brake feel

Tremblay
Oct 8, 2002
More dog whistles than a Petco

Fifty Three posted:

nah dawg, keeping your brake fluid warmed up ensures it's always pressurized so you get better brake feel

It pains me that someone will read your post and not understand that it's sarcastic.

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Tyro
Nov 10, 2009
Installed some heated grips on my FZ8. Got em used from a friend's SV650, the throttle grip was already glued to a mystery throttle sleeve so I just swapped it in like that and took mine off.

I forgot to insulate the left grip so it'll probably dump most of the heat into the bar...

Controls are stuck to the brake fluid reservoir with sticky tape until I find a more permanent spot for them.

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