Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

I guess twisto already made a megapost about it but yeah, in general your helmet is fine if it dropped onto the ground with nothing in it, and it didn't crack the shell. The foam won't compress without that mass on the inside pushing it.

If you put a bowling ball in your helmet and dropped it, then yes, replace it.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Kastivich
Mar 26, 2010

nullscan posted:

Anyone know of an off-the-shelf or diy quick mount for a top case? I have a large soft bag that I'd like to make a bit more secure than the assorted nylon straps and buckles that is currently included.

I bought a Givi Monokey mounting bracket thinking like a fool that it'd have the mount and the part to attach to the bag so they'd snap together but it only had the base plate that their proprietary cases snap into. Looking around the internet I've seen various solutions involving bed rails and such to slide on/off quickly but figured I'd ask here if anyone has come up with something.

I already have the cargo shelf for the back of the bike so I really just need to figure out mounting hardware for the bag/shelf.

I tried to find something like this and came up with nothing. Makes a lot of sense to me. I eventually gave up and bought an Givi hard case after not finding any way to quickly mount and dismount a tail bag.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


Does the bag not have some sewn-in straps near the bottom for mounting to a generic rack? Heavy duty velcro works well if you want to take it to a seamstress to have some sewn in, or have some straps with buckles sewn in. My Wolfman tail bag has a shock cord run through channels with hooks at the corners, that's an option too. I personally like straps myself but I do a lot of rafting so I'm ok with a poo poo gently caress stack.

HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Oct 10, 2018

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib

nullscan posted:

Anyone know of an off-the-shelf or diy quick mount for a top case? I have a large soft bag that I'd like to make a bit more secure than the assorted nylon straps and buckles that is currently included.

I bought a Givi Monokey mounting bracket thinking like a fool that it'd have the mount and the part to attach to the bag so they'd snap together but it only had the base plate that their proprietary cases snap into. Looking around the internet I've seen various solutions involving bed rails and such to slide on/off quickly but figured I'd ask here if anyone has come up with something.

I already have the cargo shelf for the back of the bike so I really just need to figure out mounting hardware for the bag/shelf.

I've been trying so hard and so fruitlessly to find this exact thing that I've resorted to looking at outboard motor quick mounts. In the end I gave up.

Let me know if you find anything, because I'll never stoop to a givi.

nullscan
May 28, 2004

TO BE A BOSS YOU MUST HAVE HONOR! HONOR AND A PENIS!

I picked this up:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074CFD5L6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And it's a great bag, but since it's sitting on the tail shelf:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2AT07F/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The straps just arent cutting it as it feels wobbly as hell at speed. And I can't really strap it to the passenger seat as, well, I wouldn't need the bag if I didn't have a passenger.

/\/\/\- Yeah, I'll probably go harass the local Korean hardware dudes or the scooter shops that bodge milk crates to scooters and see what we can come up with.

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.
I like ROK straps. Even though I have a pretty big topcase, I always have at least one on my bike in case I need to carry home something large. Last weekend it was a tent I bought un Gumtree, my record so far is "a full sized keg" on my old CB125e.

Not quite as quick as a quick release mount, but much faster and more convenient than ratchet straps (+ more secure than regular bungees). I have been commuting and touring with them for years and they're very solid. I have the smaller ones on my bicycle rack and it takes me, I dunno, 20 seconds to run a pair through the grab handles on my backpack and cinch them down in the mornings, and taking them off is pretty much instantaneous.

Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Oct 10, 2018

Shelvocke
Aug 6, 2013

Microwave Engraver
+1 for ROK straps

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
Same. Their rubber lasts a while too, and the buckles are solid.

movax
Aug 30, 2008

My question about helmet drops is...what do they ship to the store in? The stock box you get your helmet in, at least for a Shoei, has no protection whatsoever / I would never ship it. Does the OEM pallet / case of large quantity of helmets protect it?

Would suck to get a pre-compromised helmet and never know. Shock stickers or similar could be too easily tuned for a tumble from your couch to carpet resulting in “REPLACE IMMEDIATELY”...

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

Sagebrush posted:

I guess twisto already made a megapost about it but yeah, in general your helmet is fine if it dropped onto the ground with nothing in it, and it didn't crack the shell. The foam won't compress without that mass on the inside pushing it.

If you put a bowling ball in your helmet and dropped it, then yes, replace it.

I KNEW I should have found something else to transport my bowling balls in :(

My Shoei has some chips in the paint, I'm not particularly concerned, the shell looks alright, I am right around replacement age though.

Just suck it up and buy a Givi top case and look like a giant loving nerd, it was such a huge quality of life improvement for me in terms of practical motorcycling.

goddamnedtwisto
Dec 31, 2004

If you ask me about the mole people in the London Underground, I WILL be forced to kill you
Fun Shoe

movax posted:

My question about helmet drops is...what do they ship to the store in? The stock box you get your helmet in, at least for a Shoei, has no protection whatsoever / I would never ship it. Does the OEM pallet / case of large quantity of helmets protect it?

Would suck to get a pre-compromised helmet and never know. Shock stickers or similar could be too easily tuned for a tumble from your couch to carpet resulting in �REPLACE IMMEDIATELY�...

An impact heavy enough to compromise the shell would completely gently caress the box, which is why you're always supposed to ask for one fresh from the box.

Fanelien
Nov 23, 2003

Elviscat posted:

I KNEW I should have found something else to transport my bowling balls in :(

My Shoei has some chips in the paint, I'm not particularly concerned, the shell looks alright, I am right around replacement age though.

Just suck it up and buy a Givi top case and look like a giant loving nerd, it was such a huge quality of life improvement for me in terms of practical motorcycling.

Yep, proper luggage looks awful but is so much better. I used to just run with a Kreiga bag all the time, installed a ventura rack and bag, the difference is night and day. Though the bike looks dorky as gently caress with the big bag hanging off the back of it. Also the instructions said a max speed of 130kph, What a loving cop out, it copes with a lot more than that, just loctite everything.

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib

Elviscat posted:

Just suck it up and buy a Givi top case and look like a giant loving nerd, it was such a huge quality of life improvement for me in terms of practical motorcycling.

Why would I look dorky with a givi when I could look boss as gently caress with a pelican case? Givi are so rounded they dont go with the stylings of most bikes.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

Coydog posted:

Why would I look dorky with a givi when I could look boss as gently caress with a pelican case? Givi are so rounded they dont go with the stylings of most bikes.

agreed. givis look like rear end

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass
I do kind of wish there was something that was mechanically identical to a givi or shad case, but externally looked like an old timey travelling suitcase or something.

pokie
Apr 27, 2008

IT HAPPENED!

Dear moto nerds, could I get a knobby tires recommendation for my WR250? I just ordered some dirt rims for it (21 and 18"). For me quality > longevity given that I don't ride dirt very often. I am planning to go on a little trip to CA desert (sand, rocks...) and bring the dirt rims on my rack.

Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL
uh you should probably just get 80/20s and call it a day, why in the hell would you carry wheels on the back

pokie
Apr 27, 2008

IT HAPPENED!

Razzled posted:

uh you should probably just get 80/20s and call it a day, why in the hell would you carry wheels on the back

Because it's a 400 mile trip 1-way.

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.
Mx tires!

I like the Michelin starcross series or Dunlop mx3s.

E: folks love the gt fatty front but I’ve never tried it (but I’m going to buy next because I’m curious).

builds character fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Oct 10, 2018

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

yeah starcrosses rule. I used to race them on my CRF450R up in longview which was a mostly sand track

kloa
Feb 14, 2007


I liked the Kenda Trakmaster II’s when I had my WR.

puberty worked me over
May 20, 2013

by Cyrano4747
Is there a good ratchet strap / come along system for pulling sub 300 lb bikes out of slopes/ditches/mud? I've tested the concept with standard ratchet straps but they're all way too short to for example tie around a tree 15 ft away. Need something I can just chuck in my soft bag. the only thing I've seen is those gigantic truck ratchet straps. I would kill for a good solution to this as I been in some pretty hairy situations where I wished to hell I had a way to just use mechanical advantage to pull the bike out of what it was stuck in.

Wondering if I can attach this to the bike frame in a safe and secure way:
https://m.harborfreight.com/900-lbs-capacity-hand-winch-62471.html


Also thank you again Sagebrush I installed the new RR in the XT, drove it for an hour, and the voltage went up. Voltage increase on revs is far more linear and gradual than before. Tested for shorts using continuity mode on the multimeter and couldn't find anything. This RR also does not heat up nearly as much. That said I am wondering why the original RR failed. I expect this new one will eventually fail in the same way and I have missed a wiring issue somewhere.

puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Oct 11, 2018

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


puberty worked me over posted:

Is there a good ratchet strap / come along system for pulling sub 300 lb bikes out of slopes/ditches/mud? I've tested the concept with standard ratchet straps but they're all way too short to for example tie around a tree 15 ft away. Need something I can just chuck in my soft bag. the only thing I've seen is those gigantic truck ratchet straps. I would kill for a good solution to this as I been in some pretty hairy situations where I wished to hell I had a way to just use mechanical advantage to pull the bike out of what it was stuck in.

Wondering if I can attach this to the bike frame in a safe and secure way:
https://m.harborfreight.com/900-lbs-capacity-hand-winch-62471.html
You can piece together everything you need to make a z-drag for fairly cheap at the hardware store, or price up a little bit and get stuff from REI/NRS/Backcountry.com, or somewhere similar. All you need for a 3-1 advantage is 1 long ~1/2" rope, 2 pulleys, 3 carabiners, a couple lengths of ~1/4" rope to make prusiks, and either a length of webbing or another shorter length of rope to anchor with. It'll weigh far less than anything ratcheting, and you'll get more distance out of each pull than a ratcheting mechanism. The pulleys can be left out if you use decent climbing carabiners.

They're a little more fiddly to operate, but pack down a lot smaller and are cheaper. One person with a 3-1 advantage can do a lot, and two can do even more. If you want to add another 2 pulleys to the mix, it'll turn into a 9-1 advantage, and a single person could pull a parked car across a gravel lot with that. There's a company that makes a waterproof quick reference, too, since you're probably a little stressed when you're putting the system together. But with a little practice, you can whip one up really quickly.

There are a ton of great YouTube resources for building a kit, using one, and various mechanical advantage tweaks.

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.

puberty worked me over posted:

Wondering if I can attach this to the bike frame in a safe and secure way:
https://m.harborfreight.com/900-lbs-capacity-hand-winch-62471.html

I was thinking of something similar to this for the KLR.

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

puberty worked me over posted:

Is there a good ratchet strap / come along system for pulling sub 300 lb bikes out of slopes/ditches/mud? I've tested the concept with standard ratchet straps but they're all way too short to for example tie around a tree 15 ft away. Need something I can just chuck in my soft bag. the only thing I've seen is those gigantic truck ratchet straps. I would kill for a good solution to this as I been in some pretty hairy situations where I wished to hell I had a way to just use mechanical advantage to pull the bike out of what it was stuck in.

Wondering if I can attach this to the bike frame in a safe and secure way:
https://m.harborfreight.com/900-lbs-capacity-hand-winch-62471.html


Also thank you again Sagebrush I installed the new RR in the XT, drove it for an hour, and the voltage went up. Voltage increase on revs is far more linear and gradual than before. Tested for shorts using continuity mode on the multimeter and couldn't find anything. This RR also does not heat up nearly as much. That said I am wondering why the original RR failed. I expect this new one will eventually fail in the same way and I have missed a wiring issue somewhere.



HenryJLittlefinger posted:

You can piece together everything you need to make a z-drag for fairly cheap at the hardware store, or price up a little bit and get stuff from REI/NRS/Backcountry.com, or somewhere similar. All you need for a 3-1 advantage is 1 long ~1/2" rope, 2 pulleys, 3 carabiners, a couple lengths of ~1/4" rope to make prusiks, and either a length of webbing or another shorter length of rope to anchor with. It'll weigh far less than anything ratcheting, and you'll get more distance out of each pull than a ratcheting mechanism. The pulleys can be left out if you use decent climbing carabiners.

They're a little more fiddly to operate, but pack down a lot smaller and are cheaper. One person with a 3-1 advantage can do a lot, and two can do even more. If you want to add another 2 pulleys to the mix, it'll turn into a 9-1 advantage, and a single person could pull a parked car across a gravel lot with that. There's a company that makes a waterproof quick reference, too, since you're probably a little stressed when you're putting the system together. But with a little practice, you can whip one up really quickly.

There are a ton of great YouTube resources for building a kit, using one, and various mechanical advantage tweaks.

Oh, yeah or that. That’s actually really cool.

Horse Clocks
Dec 14, 2004


My bike is a somewhat uncommon, Italian designed, Chinese made, and nearly impossible to find aftermarket parts for.

I found someone on the Internet who claimed the brake lever was from a MSX125 and the clutch lever was from a RS125.

So I bought the above, the grom lever is a perfect fit, bit the clutch lever’s pivot is too big, and the dimensions are a bit off.

I can cut off the clutch lump, and I think it’ll then fit, but is there anything I can do to shrink down the pivot?

Or, can anyone identify the OEM clutch lever?

https://imgur.com/a/kxSlUNb

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

You could put a bushing inside the pivot hole, assuming that you can either find one the right size or make one yourself.

Brass is traditional but a strong plastic like nylon or delrin would work too.

puberty worked me over
May 20, 2013

by Cyrano4747
.

puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Jan 4, 2020

movax
Aug 30, 2008

puberty worked me over posted:

Any special opinons on replacing batteries with capacitors? I'm replacing my KLR250 (kick start) battery with a 23000 microfarad 16 VDC screw terminal capacitor to shave some weight. Just want to make sure I don't harm the RR, stator, or wiring. Also removing the passenger pegs and supports.

Guessing the next best weight reduction step is tubliss? The heavy duty tubes probably are a significant source of weight.


This is fairly neat albeit a bit of a hassle. However it does seem to be the lightest option. Honestly if I can get the bike light enough a 2-1 advantage might be enough. Thank you.

If motorcycle electrics are anything like auto, you may see transient voltages well above the rating of that capacitor. Then again, if that’s what they usually sell for like car audio stuff, it’s probably designed for that and will be fine.

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

puberty worked me over posted:

Any special opinons on replacing batteries with capacitors? I'm replacing my KLR250 (kick start) battery with a 23000 microfarad 16 VDC screw terminal capacitor to shave some weight. Just want to make sure I don't harm the RR, stator, or wiring. Also removing the passenger pegs and supports.

Guessing the next best weight reduction step is tubliss? The heavy duty tubes probably are a significant source of weight.


This is fairly neat albeit a bit of a hassle. However it does seem to be the lightest option. Honestly if I can get the bike light enough a 2-1 advantage might be enough. Thank you.

Does it even need the battery/capacitor to run once it's going? If not, you can bring a spare capacitor just in case for the first few rides and then you should be OK.

Exhaust is also heavy if you don't have an aftermarket slip on, that's a good place to go next.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


Seems like it would be a lot cheaper to lose some weight off yourself, depending on your condition.

Or sell the KLR and buy a lighter bike? I think the general wisdom is, regardless of the sport (bicycles, motorcycles, whatever), improving technique and fitness go a lot farther than chasing weight reductions.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7E1zIIjlP0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPRwh_dUJuc

HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Oct 17, 2018

puberty worked me over
May 20, 2013

by Cyrano4747
.

puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Jan 4, 2020

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

Is a lithium battery heavier than a capacitor setup?

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

RadioPassive posted:

Is a lithium battery heavier than a capacitor setup?

By like a pound.


puberty worked me over posted:

Thanks all,

Regarding running no battery or cap:If a battery or capacitor is not installed the bike runs fine. However the head/brake lights will dim and the signals flash rapidly. I have heard rumor the stator may stop working properly or get too hot if there is nothing limiting the input voltage. I wish I could find a more concrete explanation of this theory.

Regarding weight loss At 160 lbs there's some room for weight loss but not much. Cardio has been increased to improve endurance. I have an XT225 (which is about the lightest dual sport outside of a beta 125rrs you can buy) as well but with no kick start I don't trust it in the woods. Also it's a bit short/lacking in ground clearance. Shame you can't plate dirt bikes here. The end solution may be to try and source the TW200 kickstart kit and put it on the XT225, remove the battery and cluster and replace with a capacitor and a trail tech vapor.

I get technique can help but on really difficult trails and precarious situations I feel weight makes a huge difference. Getting the bike stuck out of mud, walking it up a rocky stream bank, etc. Shacked up with brenda would know better but from the local Enduro event pictures I don't see people riding anything above 300lbs.


I just wish there was an aftermarket exhaust as quiet as stock but lighter.


There was a team at the perry mountain 24h that ran big 1000cc ADV bikes pretty successfully. But yeah, light is best. One of the big reasons 2ts have always been best, although the 4ts are really getting close now.

Why not just carry a small starter pack for your xt225? Kickstarters are also heavy.

You could also just get a beta/ktm/husky 350. Those are 50 street legal and the 12-16 models are coming down in price now.

AMISH FRIED PIES
Mar 6, 2009

by Nyc_Tattoo
at what point does a wheelie become a whoolie, and at what point does said whoolie become dank?

tjones
May 13, 2005

AMISH FRIED PIES posted:

at what point does a wheelie become a whoolie, and at what point does said whoolie become dank?

12 oclock. > 12 oclock.

BrownieVK
Nov 10, 2009

Eat my ass
New bike guy here ( I will post in the picture thread later) I picked up a 2017 Honda Rebel 300 ABS. It has the same engine as the CBR300 just tuned for more torque. I'm new to EFI stuff only ever worked on carbed scooters. The muffler assembly has the CAT built in (the slip on portion). Is it okay to run a slip on shorty style pipe that I bought?

Will this "hurt" anything other than my ears (it's loud as hell on a single cylinder lol) should I grab a K&N filter and a power commander to compensate for the exhaust flow?

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


BrownieVK posted:


Will this "hurt" anything other than my ears (it's loud as hell on a single cylinder lol) should I grab a K&N filter and a power commander to compensate for the exhaust flow?

Leave the stock can on. Loud small thumpers sound dumb.

Voltage
Sep 4, 2004

MALT LIQUOR!
Yeah I would leave it stock, and when you move up to a big vtwin it will be that much nicer to have a loud bike.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

It might lean it out slightly but not enough to hurt anything but that's beside the point, it'll sound like arse on toast don't do it.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply