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Boner Wad posted:So I got one of these and tried it out. Some decent sized hair nuggets came out but nowhere what I expected. I ran the water and it seemed to not backup, so I’ll run this for awhile and will see what happens. You're well past CLR territory there. I don't really have something stronger to recommenced, but CLR is not going to touch that.
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Oct 9, 2018 01:19
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devicenull posted:You're well past CLR territory there. I don't really have something stronger to recommenced, but CLR is not going to touch that. So what type of water filter/softener should I be looking for?
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Oct 9, 2018 05:58
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Boner Wad posted:So what type of water filter/softener should I be looking for? You could get a plumber to clean your line with a "C" style head on a drain opener machine. Head looks something like this here: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-T-205-1-3-8-in-C-Grease-Cutter-Drain-Cleaning-Tool-63005/202826664 Or Sulfuric Acid marketed as a drain clearing product. It is cheaper and may not work! Also wear PPE (splash googles) if trying this method. (May ruin your pipes, do you know what your drain plumbing is made out of?)
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Oct 9, 2018 11:07
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I've had success with the granular sodium hydroxide products for this sort of thing. You do need to be extremely careful with that stuff. I wouldn't want to throw it down old/fragile pipes because it can get very hot/expand, plus you'll get a dose of toxic gas back out of the drain, so you need ventilation and eye/skin protection. The method I used was to dribble hot water down a drain while I sprinkle the lye into the drain so there's a small amount eating away at the build-up. After a while it will wear it away and break it up, though you have to be careful as that can cause a clog.
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Oct 9, 2018 13:47
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The Gardenator posted:You could get a plumber to clean your line with a "C" style head on a drain opener machine. Head looks something like this here: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-T-205-1-3-8-in-C-Grease-Cutter-Drain-Cleaning-Tool-63005/202826664 The house is 4 years old, and I have pictures from when the house was being built, it's PVC pipe. I'm concerned about how much poo poo is in the drain for a "brand new" house.
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Oct 9, 2018 16:04
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Got a plumber to replace my water heater and pressure reducing valve. In doing so, he set the pressure of the water in the house to 75psi. However, this has resulted in large amounts of water knocking, and the pressure from the taps is also more than we want. I could call him out again to reduce the pressure, however that would require me to stay at home for the visit. Is reducing the pressure as simple as loosening the nut, and then turning the screw counter-clockwise until the pressure is low enough, and then tightening the nut back up? And while I am doing all this, should I turn the water off at the main entry point? Pics of the pressure reducing valve:  
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Oct 10, 2018 00:57
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It's that easy, although double-check the direction, I always forget. And no, you needn't turn anything off. In fact, if you have a friend stand at a running faucet as you adjust the valve, they can scream "THAT'S IT!!" when you get it down to something more reasonable. Just go slow, and give the house pressure a moment to settle after adjusting it before deciding to continue or not. An actual gauge would be better, but the above approach works in a pinch.
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Oct 10, 2018 01:03
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What did this pipe carry? This is the basement of a carriage house, so the other side of this wall is below grade. About 50’ beyond this wall is the very outer edge of the main house, but if I were to draw a line from this spot directly out it might miss the house and make it to the road. The carriage house had water and I think possibly gas service at some point. Built in 1914 in Cleveland.   
Jealous Cow fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Oct 11, 2018 |
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Oct 11, 2018 23:43
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Looks like a waste line to me. It's relatively small diameter, so maybe it went to a sink originally.
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Oct 11, 2018 23:58
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SpartanIvy posted:Looks like a waste line to me. It's relatively small diameter, so maybe it went to a sink originally. That makes sense. Not too far from the capped end, on the same wall, there is a pipe with a hose bib next to an empty pipe. The empty pipe appears to be iron running through a led sleeve through the slab. Maybe that was the drain pipe.
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Oct 12, 2018 00:01
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Yeah, that's a soil/drain line.
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Oct 12, 2018 00:27
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Well now I gotta put a urinal in my garage so I can piss LIKE A MAN while working on my trans am.
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Oct 12, 2018 00:31
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Jealous Cow posted:Well now I gotta put a urinal in my garage so I can piss LIKE A MAN while working on my trans am. You don't need plumbing for that. My friend had one on the side of his garage and it just emptied through a hole in the garage into the yard outside. Classy.
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Oct 12, 2018 00:55
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Medullah posted:You don't need plumbing for that. My friend had one on the side of his garage and it just emptied through a hole in the garage into the yard outside. Classy. Wow that’s trashy as gently caress. Would fit right in here in Ohio.
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Oct 12, 2018 01:14
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Good grief just pee outside you barbarians
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Oct 12, 2018 01:30
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Jealous Cow posted:Wow that’s trashy as gently caress. Would fit right in here in Ohio. Michigan, so pretty close.
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Oct 12, 2018 01:37
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tactlessbastard posted:Good grief just pee outside you barbarians That's what trees are for.
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Oct 12, 2018 01:52
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Medullah posted:You don't need plumbing for that. My friend had one on the side of his garage and it just emptied through a hole in the garage into the yard outside. Classy.
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Oct 12, 2018 14:34
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Crumps Brother posted:At least that's a good way to avoid the sex offender route. I have a neighbor that pisses on the side of his garage which is right next to a public park. I live on a pretty big corner and lots of kids walk to school down one of the streets, but it also means kids come up to my front door all the time to sell poo poo or ask for work (lol capitalism). When I don't answer the door they frequently look in through the windows because they're all little shits. In summary: I don't piss/poo poo/jackit outside or near any windows.
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Oct 12, 2018 15:16
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Jealous Cow posted:I live on a pretty big corner and lots of kids walk to school down one of the streets, but it also means kids come up to my front door all the time to sell poo poo or ask for work (lol capitalism). When I don't answer the door they frequently look in through the windows because they're all little shits. I was looking at houses to buy and one had a bathroom with a window that had you looking directly out a big ground level window into the front yard if you were pooping. While that is bad design in and of itself, the disturbing part was the lack of curtains there.
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Oct 12, 2018 15:31
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Medullah posted:I was looking at houses to buy and one had a bathroom with a window that had you looking directly out a big ground level window into the front yard if you were pooping. While that is bad design in and of itself, the disturbing part was the lack of curtains there. How old was the house? My two upstairs bathrooms both used to have full size double hung windows in the shower, coming down to about thigh-level. A ton of houses in NE Ohio still do. The number I see with no curtains or anything is incredible. I mean, some privacy film is like $5 a roll at least stick that on Jesus Christ.
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Oct 12, 2018 15:39
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My well pump is a 4" submersible two-wire 3/4hp unit. On the weekends it does not like to work. The problem is the pump won't start reliably. The first time it failed, I ohm'ed the motor expecting to find an open circuit/broken wire somewhere--but everything looked fine. Knowing the wires weren't broken, I assumed the pump was shot for some reason. Reconnected the pressure switch, and flipped the breaker back on--pump worked. Pump kept working until the next weekend. Pressure switch was on, 240v going to the well pump, but no pump/water flow. Flipped the breaker and nothing. Left the breaker off for 30-60min, turned it on and the pump works. The pump does not seem to like turning on, filling the pressure tank, turning off, and then put back in service without some time period elapsing. General practice in my area is something is broken inside the submersible unit--replace it with a new $600+ pump. It doesn't seem like the pump is completely broken. I'm assuming the issue is either the pump is overheating when it fills the pressure tank and a thermal shutoff is keeping the motor from restarting? Or there is an internal starting capacitor to the submersible unit that may be replaceable? The pump is relatively new--the 180' well had a 3/4hp motor from the 70's until 2013. Five years on this pump, but our area wells are very silty and this pump was installed with a PVC silt filter over the pump. I am wondering if the silt filter has gotten clogged, which in turn is making the motor work harder than it should, leading to thermal issues. Or if there is a $6 start capacitor hiding under the housing cover I should check... (Google searches talk about start capacitors on external well control boxes used by 3 wire pumps.) And on a side note--what are the advantages of a three wire over a two wire? If installing a new pump is the way to go, the well head is in a dry enclosure--should I add a three wire with a control box? Any opinions on silt filters? We use a 5micron whole house filter that won't make it 45 days until it has collected enough mud to affect pressure around the house.
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Oct 14, 2018 18:59
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So my wife and I got a new dishwasher. I had known from the inspection that there was no P trap for the dishwasher and that underneath the sink there was an S trap. Decided to redo the whole thing. The dishwasher supply was also a direct soldered in copper line that was a real pain in the rear end to get out. I cut it right past the valve and put a push on cap over the copper, then split the supply line from the sink to feed the new dishwasher. S trap was removed, P trap installed with an AAV as there was no stack. Everything should be a lot easier to work on in the future, and it drains a hell of a lot faster now. In addition, the dishwasher now drains into the sink drain right before the P trap. Before/after diagram for illustrative purposes:  Here's the new trap and AAV installed. I got the water line split as well now, it's just not shown in this picture. I'm also getting a stainless riser clamp for 1-1/2 PVC so that the pipe is reinforced and supported by the cabinetry rather than the load of the pipe and any water in it being borne by the 45 degree elbow in the basement.  I did a lot of reading before I did this and I'm curious. Does it seem right? Did I gently caress anything up?
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Oct 15, 2018 16:37
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It is hard enough to see standing in front of the drain, much less in a picture--but do have fall along the straight runs? A torpedo level will confirm the runs are lower on the correct side. A mark with a permanent marker line were the P-trap compression fitting attaches to the drain will let you check the fitting over the coming months to make sure it hasn't moved.
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Oct 15, 2018 20:24
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what would the proper slope be? And how does one lower one side of the drain to create a slope?
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Oct 15, 2018 20:30
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:I did a lot of reading before I did this and I'm curious. Does it seem right? Did I gently caress anything up? Looks fine to me, but some states/areas don't allow the dishwasher to tie into a tail piece like that or AAV even if they sell them at your local Home Depot. If you are in an IPC state (which is most of them) and there are no local codes amended regarding these things you are golden.
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Oct 15, 2018 20:33
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:what would the proper slope be? And how does one lower one side of the drain to create a slope? For 2" and under it's a 1/4" per foot. For anything larger it's 1/8" per foot. You shouldn't have to do anything because most DWV fittings with a 90 degree turn aren't actually an exact 90 degrees to account for pitch/slope. It's fine man, no inspector is going to bust out the level on some tubular trap poo poo unless it's really jacked up. Again from what I can see you are good.
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Oct 15, 2018 20:36
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Looks like PA uses the 2009 IPC and I don't think the municipality has any addendum from what I can tell.BubbaGrace posted:For 2" and under it's a 1/4" per foot. For anything larger it's 1/8" per foot. You shouldn't have to do anything because most DWV fittings with a 90 degree turn aren't actually an exact 90 degrees to account for pitch/slope. It's fine man, no inspector is going to bust out the level on some tubular trap poo poo unless it's really jacked up. Again from what I can see you are good. Cool. I'm honestly not worried about an inspection, I just want the drat thing to drain properly. It's working fine for now but who knows if that'll hold for months/years.
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Oct 15, 2018 20:44
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:Looks like PA uses the 2009 IPC and I don't think the municipality has any addendum from what I can tell. Make sure to loop your dishwasher discharge line all way to the top of the cabinet and back down
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Oct 15, 2018 20:52
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HycoCam posted:My well pump is a 4" submersible two-wire 3/4hp unit. On the weekends it does not like to work. The problem is the pump won't start reliably. The first time it failed, I ohm'ed the motor expecting to find an open circuit/broken wire somewhere--but everything looked fine. Knowing the wires weren't broken, I assumed the pump was shot for some reason. Reconnected the pressure switch, and flipped the breaker back on--pump worked.
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Oct 17, 2018 22:31
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I have an issue with my hot water pipes banging around. Only happens in the shower, and only when the faucet is on like a 70/30 hot/cold split - 100% hot it doesn't, 50/50 it doesn't, but right around that 70/30 area it keeps banging around like the pipes are going to break themselves apart. Can't duplicate it with either the bathroom or kitchen sinks. Google keeps directing my search results to single bangs at turning on/off hot water, which I haven't noticed. This a constant boom-boom-boom with an awful sound and the water visibly not flowing smoothly when it happens. Where should I start to fix this?
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Oct 18, 2018 23:58
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That's loving bizarre but maybe it's the hot water valve stem of the shower? Not sure what kind of defect would cause pulsing like that but it seems like a likely culprit.
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Oct 19, 2018 01:39
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It also could be rubber inside of a ball valve causing a flow restriction. Ive ran into that before.
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Oct 19, 2018 03:22
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Yeah, if it's a high-speed hammering, almost a loud, punctuated groaning, I'd look at the valving in the tub. It sounds like you also have an unsecured/unstrapped supply line to the tub on a fairly long run. Tying it down will quiet it some, and confine it to a single *bang* when the tub is shut off, but it won't solve the problem
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Oct 19, 2018 08:01
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:Looks like PA uses the 2009 IPC and I don't think the municipality has any addendum from what I can tell. "PA" doesn't use anything: each municipality can choose their own. But most have adopted the IPC. There are sample addendums for the various I Codes that PA and other Commonwealth organizations (Association of Boroughs, etc) has made available from time to time, but most munis that aren't Philly, Scranton, Harrisburg, Pittsburgh just adopt the model code.
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Oct 23, 2018 23:47
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The valve on one of my radiators (forced hot water) has gone bad and started to leak. I have fixed it for the very short term with some emergency leak tape but want to replace the valve. Am I dumb to try this myself in winter temps with a single zone heating system and a wife who likes to stay warm?  Seems like I'll need a valve, a spud wrench, and two large pipe wrenches? Anything else? Do I need to drain the entire system or can I just try to open up this side of the radiator and deal with whatever water flows out?
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Oct 27, 2018 14:46
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You'll need to drain the system down to floor level...which drainns down every radiator on that level (and evey floor above you). Once you replace the valve, then you have to recharge each radiator on that level (and above) by opening the feed valve on the boiler, then burping (bleeding air out of) each radiator in turn. Don't forget to shut off the feed valve when you're done. VVV so they don't rust? VVV PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Oct 29, 2018 |
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Oct 27, 2018 15:37
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Why do people paint radiators?
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Oct 29, 2018 00:55
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tactlessbastard posted:Why do people paint radiators? So they look nicer?
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Oct 29, 2018 13:29
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PainterofCrap posted:You'll need to drain the system down to floor level...which drainns down every radiator on that level (and evey floor above you). I'm a bit confused about needing to drain the system. If water comes out, air has to be entering somewhere else, and this is presumably a closed system if I shut off the supply valve. The only concern is air simultaneously entering and water exiting from the only opening in the system (where I take this apart). It seems like there should be some way for me to prevent that and avoid draining all the radiators in the house (except the one in the basement below this). This is all assuming I can depressurize the system first (according to the meter on the boiler its at 25psi).
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Oct 29, 2018 23:52
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