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They don't have tweeters nothing in the A pillar or in the door panel.
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Sep 23, 2018 18:52
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In that case coaxials will do ya.
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Sep 24, 2018 00:17
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Don Dongington posted:In that case coaxials will do ya. Awesome, Thanks for all the help guys!
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Sep 24, 2018 00:47
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I installed one of those CD changer output>Aux adapters in my 2003 Accord and I'm getting a poo poo-ton of alternator whine. I attempted to clean things up by putting in a ground loop isolator but that hasn't really seemed to have had much of a positive effect. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can clean that up, or should I start budgeting for the expensive dash adapter to go aftermarket?
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Sep 28, 2018 20:45
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MikeyTsi posted:I installed one of those CD changer output>Aux adapters in my 2003 Accord and I'm getting a poo poo-ton of alternator whine. I attempted to clean things up by putting in a ground loop isolator but that hasn't really seemed to have had much of a positive effect. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can clean that up, or should I start budgeting for the expensive dash adapter to go aftermarket? Is it happening whether the phone is charging or not?
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Sep 29, 2018 17:50
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Wasabi the J posted:Is it happening whether the phone is charging or not? Happens even when a device isn't plugged in at all.
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Sep 29, 2018 19:05
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Looking for some advice on the best way to handle the wiring on both my '91 Suburban and '89 Golf. Starting with the suburban I'm currently redoing the entire system after the right channel blew on the stock radio. The basic setup is 2x 4x10 3 way speakers in the rear, 2x 3.5" 1 way in the dash corners, and a single dual voice 4x10 in the center of the dash. Head unit is a Kenwood, the 4 normal speakers are lovely boss ones, and the center is from retro sound. My question is basically what's the best way to wire this and how much of a problem are the boss speakers considering I just want lowish volume modern stock radio quality? (If they are a problem any replacement speakers must not have a raised tweeter or they won't fit) On the Golf it is also a 6 speaker deal since it came with the "aktiv" option. Similar deal, I changed the speakers for a matching set of 6 pioneer speakers (5.25", 3.5", and 4x6" sets) about a year ago and installed an old sony headunit from 2004 I had laying around. Worked great and sounded pretty respectable at all volumes. Well the head unit died and I installed a Pioneer head unit to match the speakers and it now peaks terribly if played any louder than talking volume. I am using completely stock wiring and the 5.25" and 3.5" are wired in parallel, also due to the old aktiv setup the 2 5.25" speakers share a ground connection on the harness. What would cause the old radio to handle it while the new one doesn't? Both vehicles have weak alternators so I'd rather not add amps if I can avoid it. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Oct 10, 2018 |
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Oct 10, 2018 23:12
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For the Suburban, Q-Logic kick panel speaker pods are a good option - they'll let you drop in 5.25" coaxials (or components). ... they're not cheap.  you may come out ahead having a local car audio shop build something like that. But it'll sound worlds better than the horrible speaker setup you got stock.
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Oct 12, 2018 07:18
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I was looking at my door panels the other day, and it appears my volvo has 3 speakers, tweeter, mid, and full range. This is... interesting.
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Oct 12, 2018 13:12
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The CD player in my Pioneer HU finally crapped, and the Bluetooth (phone) performance has always been utter garbage with it. Current HU is a single DIN Pioneer DEH-X8600BH. I want to go double DIN, but I can remain single DIN if I need to. I'd like Android Auto if it doesn't break the bank. The only real must haves are Bluetooth and HD Radio, but double DIN and Android Auto are at the top of the "wants" list, as are 4x preouts for a sub amp. I don't care much about having a CD player, but the CD player dying on my current one is kind of the kick in the rear end I need to replace it anyway (on top of phone call quality being utter garbage with every phone I've tried). Kenwood, Alpine, Pioneer, or JVC? Budget is about $400 (less would be better, but I'm not willing to go outside of the major brands)
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Oct 13, 2018 07:34
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Sorry about your Pioneer unit. If it helps I absolutely love my AVH4200NEX. Though be warned it could be a little inconvenient without steering wheel controls as it has no volume knob.
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Oct 13, 2018 14:51
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No steering wheel controls, though from what I understand, a lot of double DIN units don't have them anyway? It'd be nice to have one though. I can deal with everything else being via touch screen, but being able to adjust volume without taking my eyes off the road would be extra nice.
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Oct 16, 2018 12:44
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STR posted:No steering wheel controls, though from what I understand, a lot of double DIN units don't have them anyway? I love my MVH-2400NEX. It works great. I will probably go back and add the Maestro unit if/when i upgrade the speakers. It does have physical volume buttons bottom left.  Option 2: it comes with a remote so you can stick that somewhere convenient perhaps.
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Oct 16, 2018 13:47
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Sony makes a unit with a volume wheel, but the screen is smaller to make room for it. It has good reviews. My JVC has two tiny volume buttons. It also lets you spin your finger on the screen like an iPod scroll wheel to adjust volume, but stupidly doesn't work when running Android Auto (unsure about Car Play). I have a brand new JVC unit that's never been used if you are interested. (hint hint) JVC KW-M740BT Apple CarPlay, Android Auto 2-DIN AV Receiver (No CD Drive) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079MGC44Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8bEXBb765WH0C
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Oct 16, 2018 13:59
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toplitzin posted:Option 2: it comes with a remote so you can stick that somewhere convenient perhaps.
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Oct 16, 2018 14:38
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I just realized something that I should have mentioned initially. I carry 2 phones with me.  One is for work, one is personal.How common is it for aftermarket head units to support pairing to 2 phones at once, at least for phone calls? I know Android Auto won't work from 2 at once (and honestly I want Android Auto more so I can use music apps easier; I have a permanent dash mount for my work phone), but it'd be nice if it'd support hands free calling for both phones somehow. It's illegal to use a handheld device of any kind while driving here, and I'll sometimes have customers call me while driving (my halfass way around this is using speakerphone and keeping my work phone out of sight, but I'd much prefer actual hands free calling). Am I asking for a unicorn that shits rainbows and gold? Should I just forward calls from my work phone to my personal phone instead? (outgoing calls HAVE to be from the work phone, but those are always done while parked)
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Oct 17, 2018 07:29
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I prefer my Sony XAV-AX100 for Android Auto. I had to work around Subarus wonk with the harness for steering wheel controls, everything else was PnP. The Sony had SWC input via a 1/8th TRS jack. And any unit with BT 4.0 should mean it can pair to multiple devices. Unfortunately the AX100 does not, although you CAN run audio through USB over Android Auto, and leave the Bluetooth if your working phone the only one paired to it, but I don't it would be consistent. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 09:11 on Oct 17, 2018 |
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Oct 17, 2018 09:04
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STR posted:I just realized something that I should have mentioned initially. Coming at it from the opposite side of the spectrum, would a double SIM phone work instead?
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Oct 20, 2018 21:11
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STR posted:I just realized something that I should have mentioned initially. I have the previous model of this which also has dual bluetooth: https://www.pioneer.com.au/shop/car/fh-s705bt-copy/ android auto/carplay compatible: https://www.pioneer.com.au/shop/car/multimedia-av/avh-z9150bt/
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Oct 22, 2018 03:16
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Geoj posted:Coming at it from the opposite side of the spectrum, would a double SIM phone work instead? Possibly, but that would require finding a US market dual SIM phone that I actually like. My personal phone tends to be a flagship or 1 gen old flagship model (no Samsung allowed), work phone is almost always a Moto of some kind. I'm not opposed to a lesser known brand, but being rootable is an absolute requirement for my work phone. I don't care as much about root for my personal phone, so long as it's something that gets updates quickly (I'm used to how quick updates come out for Nexus, older Motos, and the Essential).
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Oct 22, 2018 08:10
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So I have a 2015 Accord and want to put in Android Auto in that sucker. Is there an easy way to get it and still have all the features like backup camera, answering calls and still display the other poo poo on the top screen?
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Oct 22, 2018 22:21
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E2M2 posted:So I have a 2015 Accord and want to put in Android Auto in that sucker. Is there an easy way to get it and still have all the features like backup camera, answering calls and still display the other poo poo on the top screen? Seems like you have to keep the stock stereo buried in there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ij65nB366do
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Oct 24, 2018 18:34
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Wasabi the J posted:Seems like you have to keep the stock stereo buried in there. Looks like this gets most of the way there. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120HD...XgaArKvEALw_wcB Could ask Crutchfield about the upper display retention.
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Oct 24, 2018 21:56
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Question: I bought a 2015 Volvo VNL730. The volume etc gets displayed on the dash, as well as has additional controls in the bunk area to turn the radio on off/volume etc. Anyone know if it's possible to swap to an aftermarket deck and retain these functions ? I want to get some android auto into the truck. I'm not sure if the OEM deck is a Delphi or what.  
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Oct 25, 2018 04:19
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MikeyTsi posted:Looks like this gets most of the way there. Cool, thanks! Looks like I need this: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120997804B/Metra-99-7804-Dash-and-Wiring-Kit-Matte-black-silver.html and a Axxess ASWC-1 adapter I guess theres this all in one kit, but IDK if Volunteer Audio is even a reliable company. https://www.amazon.com/Volunteer-Au...Ahonda%3Aaccord edit: Sounds like the Metra kit sucks rear end found this dude that does custom kits for this here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/162423137547#viTabs_0 loving rabbithole E2M2 fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Oct 25, 2018 |
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Oct 25, 2018 04:31
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I love all these aftermarket CD changer spoofers. Works so drat well and costs next to nothing compared to getting a new fascia and head unit. Best thing is that I still retain the bluetooth connection to the different protocol for calling etc. Well worth looking into if you want to stream Spotify or somthing without getting murdered / not having OEM look.
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Oct 25, 2018 08:52
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Stupid question, are stereo thefts still that common? A lot of pawn shops no longer accept head units thanks to them being hot too often. I still generally take the faceplate off when I park, but I haven't had a car broken into in about 14 years. And every car I've owned, except for one, had an aftermarket stereo.
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Oct 25, 2018 11:28
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MrOnBicycle posted:I love all these aftermarket CD changer spoofers. Works so drat well and costs next to nothing compared to getting a new fascia and head unit. Best thing is that I still retain the bluetooth connection to the different protocol for calling etc. Well worth looking into if you want to stream Spotify or somthing without getting murdered / not having OEM look. I got one for my IS300 for like $30 on aliexpress. Added USB and Aux In to a 2003 car with neither, no cutting, and with a $5 adaptor, works on any Toyota with a CD Changer option from like 1999 to 2008 or so, after which time basically everything had aux in from the factory.
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Oct 25, 2018 11:37
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STR posted:Stupid question, are stereo thefts still that common? A lot of pawn shops no longer accept head units thanks to them being hot too often. I would have to believe car stereo thefts have all but fallen off the charts. The move away from a standard form factor head unit to proprietary equipment with little hardware commonality between models, and largely burying the equipment deep under the dashboard making theft prohibitively difficult should have eliminated both supply and demand for stolen equipment.
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Oct 25, 2018 18:08
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I would expect opportunistic thieves have moved on to dashmount GPS and dash cams as the target of choice now.
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Oct 28, 2018 00:00
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Don Dongington posted:I would expect opportunistic thieves have moved on to dashmount GPS and dash cams as the target of choice now. Stolen car GPS was a huge thing... 15 years ago. You could still steal them now but no one is gonna buy that crap anymore. Of course, your typical heroin junkie is not gonna think that hard before going for it.
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Oct 30, 2018 17:28
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2007 MK5 VW GTI. I have a 500w amp driving a 500wRMS 12" JL audio subwoofer in a fiberglass enclosure in the trunk. In the last 6 months I've noticed a slight rattle during bass which goes away if I press up on the headliner right in front of where it meets the sunroof. Should I just open it up and push some foam into there or does anyone have any ideas here? Is this what dynamat is for?
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Oct 31, 2018 01:41
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Dynamat is for silencing ringing or vibrating metal panels by increasing their effective mass. It might solve the problem, but not cheaply. Closed sell foam is what you want for rattling trim like that. I wouldn't waste your money on a specific car audio solution - just grab something from a hardware supply store or whatever. If it doesn't fix the issue, or it just moves elsewhere, then you wanna consider deadening the roof.
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Oct 31, 2018 09:57
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To be fair, you can mitigate rattling with dynamat, but it's a really expensive way to go about it. And it's not guaranteed to work for the specific rattle you hear. Stuffing something between the two vibrating surfaces is the easy route. I often find it's a pop clip holding interior trim onto a panel that's rattling. Download a frequency generator on your phone and play it through your audio and adjust it until you hear your rattle. Then go around wiggling panels until you don't hear the rattle to locate it.
um excuse me fucked around with this message at 12:17 on Oct 31, 2018 |
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Oct 31, 2018 12:14
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Also, if you're going to go that route, don't buy dynamat. You can find the same stuff really cheaply without the brand name on it.
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Oct 31, 2018 19:42
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Thanks, I'll just find some foam and shove it in there.
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Oct 31, 2018 20:27
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can anybody recommend me a single-DIN deck that has USB input both front and rear? I have an older Kenwood "media deck" in one of my cars that has this feature and I've become spoiled on it... there is a current Kenwood (BT522 I believe) that has it, but I'm not super impressed by the sound quality of my old one... there's also an Alpine unit available (UTE-73BT) but I haven't used an Alpine unit in a decade and don't know the quality of them anymore... any other ideas? I don't have room for an external amp in this truck so I want a good amp in the HU (or as best as is possible). also what's the best powered, compact sub available for not-crazy-money? I saw some posts a few pages back about an Alpine product?
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Nov 11, 2018 19:22
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You can get really tiny amps that are pretty good. I had one of these driving my fronts with the other two channels bridged to power a jl 8” micro sub and it was a great setup: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71775_NVX-MVPA4.html also had a kenwood deck that had front and rear usb but I didn’t really compare it to much else: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-w4TvUsoEBva/p_113KDCX697/Kenwood-Excelon-KDC-X697.html
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Nov 11, 2018 22:46
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powderific posted:You can get really tiny amps that are pretty good. I had one of these driving my fronts with the other two channels bridged to power a jl 8” micro sub and it was a great setup: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71775_NVX-MVPA4.html ok wow, amps have changed a lot since I’ve last done this! that looks extremely like my jam; the vehicle only has two speakers in it anyway and I’d love to have a small sub so looks like it’s time to pony up
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Nov 11, 2018 23:54
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while I’m here, any recommendations on 6.5” components? I heard some good things about Polk stuff in the last few pages... I used to run JL stuff but would like to keep the speakers around $100
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Nov 12, 2018 00:05
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