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Safety Factor posted:I have a painting question this thread might be able to help with. I think I've finally decided on a titan legion for Adeptus Titanicus and they've got an interesting scheme. They're primarily a mottled green with red accents. My basic idea for the green is to start with a dark base and sponge on coats of progressively lighter greens, particularly towards the center of each panel. Once the greens are in place, I'd do a thinned green glaze to tie everything together. Would my proposed method work? I haven't worked much with sponging in the past, but I am fairly experienced with blending and mostly aim for a clean style with a lot of edge highlighting. I've done that before with other colors, mostly yellow, and it comes out fine. Just be sure that the dark edges are really dark before you apply the glaze. Sponging is fun, just be sure to have the sponges held in tweezers or something if you don't want your fingers to be covered in paint.
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Oct 27, 2018 00:22
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Safety Factor posted:I have a painting question this thread might be able to help with. I think I've finally decided on a titan legion for Adeptus Titanicus and they've got an interesting scheme. They're primarily a mottled green with red accents. My basic idea for the green is to start with a dark base and sponge on coats of progressively lighter greens, particularly towards the center of each panel. Once the greens are in place, I'd do a thinned green glaze to tie everything together. Would my proposed method work? This was my first real attempt at a mottled colour scheme from craftworld whatever. I only used two colours over the dark blue base. It.... Looks better in person? Used just a sea sponge to dab it on lightly, and while I'm actually happy with the effect in person, I kind of cringe at the photos (or maybe it's just the poo poo compression photobucket uses, I don't know where the original files are) it's not the easiest to make it look balanced, and needs some touching up by brush.   I did similar to how retinue of 5 wraith guard and they turned out well.
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Oct 27, 2018 02:44
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Assembled and painted 21 minis this month: 12 Hormagaunts, 6 Skitarii Vanguard, a Secutarii Peltast, Genestealer, and Lictor.    Not sure if I like how the Lictor (the giant bug thing) turned out. On one hand I wanted it to match the Genestealer and the Hormagaunts, but on the other hand the green armor everywhere just makes it look gaudy. A wash of Nuln Oil or Argax Earthshade might dial it back a bit. Thoughts?
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Oct 27, 2018 08:08
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Doctor Zero posted:You gotta wash metal minis before paining. Sometimes there’s still mold release agent on them and that will keep the paint from sticking. It's not the mold release. It's the spray.
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Oct 27, 2018 08:19
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S.J. posted:It's not the mold release. It's the spray. If the paint beads on the surface then it’s mould release dude.
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Oct 27, 2018 11:17
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Duct Tape posted:Assembled and painted 21 minis this month: 12 Hormagaunts, 6 Skitarii Vanguard, a Secutarii Peltast, Genestealer, and Lictor. The Lictor owns, I wouldn't change it
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Oct 27, 2018 12:59
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Whatever it is, you should always wash your metal (and resin) models.
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Oct 27, 2018 13:01
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Finshed up a tac squad and a spooky action shot 
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Oct 27, 2018 19:36
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ijyt posted:If the paint beads on the surface then it’s mould release dude. I didn't say that but okay?
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Oct 27, 2018 21:11
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Hixson posted:Finshed up a tac squad Fantastic as always, my dude.
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Oct 28, 2018 03:06
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  Glad fun painting this dude. Shame I couldn't get the lenses right, but ah well!
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Oct 28, 2018 05:12
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Got some Scions assembled with some Empire heads I had laying around. 
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Oct 28, 2018 05:35
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tehsid posted:
The thumbnail for the first pic makes him look violently bug-eyed. Good job overall though.
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Oct 28, 2018 06:35
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Violently bug-eyed goblin with two pistols is a feature, not a bug.
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Oct 28, 2018 07:05
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And two more.
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Oct 28, 2018 08:13
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S.J. posted:I didn't say that but okay? Be more specific if you want help then? 
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Oct 28, 2018 10:45
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tehsid posted:And two more. What do you do for that lovely gold colour on the end of the kustom blasta?
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Oct 28, 2018 13:57
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ijyt posted:Be more specific if you want help then? Dear Lord. I was commenting on the paints, not asking for anything.
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Oct 28, 2018 15:17
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tehsid posted:And two more. You should drill the barrels, that big fat pistol looks wrong with a flat end. If not, at least paint a barrel hole.
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Oct 28, 2018 17:32
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Leave the barrels undrilled and paint bright orange tips on the ends, to denote the actual effectiveness of Grot guns.
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Oct 28, 2018 19:58
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Badablack posted:Leave the barrels undrilled and paint bright orange tips on the ends, to denote the actual effectiveness of Grot guns. Don't forget to Green Stuff piles of brightly colored BBs.
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Oct 28, 2018 20:00
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I'm about to dive in to painting some of the Wiz Kids D&D minis. Anyone have good ways to paint the clear plastic spell effect parts? I assume washes or inks.
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Oct 28, 2018 21:54
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I like the tamiya clear colors for painting the translucent plastic on wizkids and reaper bones stuff. Thin it a little and it looks great.
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Oct 28, 2018 22:09
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Funzo posted:I'm about to dive in to painting some of the Wiz Kids D&D minis. Anyone have good ways to paint the clear plastic spell effect parts? I assume washes or inks. Washes, inks, glazes, or Tamiya clear colors over gloss is the way to go. You want a really smooth surface to work over, so that the colors just run down naturally. Watch out for pooling, and you'll probably need to use more than one coat. Take it slow, don't rush, and you should be fine.
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Oct 28, 2018 22:09
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Team_q posted:What do you do for that lovely gold colour on the end of the kustom blasta? That's army painter weapon bronze! General Olloth posted:You should drill the barrels, that big fat pistol looks wrong with a flat end. If not, at least paint a barrel hole. I'd just started painting the mini when I realised I hadn't drilled it... And said ah gently caress it. But I might try painting it on and hope for the best.
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Oct 28, 2018 23:11
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tehsid posted:That's army painter weapon bronze! Thanks bud! Guess I'm going to the weird hobby store!
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Oct 29, 2018 01:37
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Need some help with edge highlighting. I struggle with this alot. I want to do a black armor scheme, but that will require a ton of edge highlighting and I am just not very good at it. I think the biggest problem I am getting is getting the paint the exact right consistency to go on easily without being too thin to control, and then loading the brush right to be able to apply it smoothly without it getting out of control. It just seems to incredibly fiddly. My brush control feels ok tbh, but getting the paint to apply right is a nightmare.  
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Oct 29, 2018 03:01
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tehsid posted:That's army painter weapon bronze! I no joke love TAP Weapon Bronze to the extent that I changed the fluff of a faction in the setting I use my models in just to have an excuse to use it more often.
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Oct 29, 2018 03:19
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Aside from ProCreate, what putties do folks like for sculpting (not just gap-filling)? Ideally, I'd like something neutral-colored, fairly stiff, and sandable; but really, I'll take any suggestions. I have a feeling that the ProCreate formulation is behind the problems I'm having with sculpting stuff (cured putty just disintegrates after handling it for a while, i.e. when sculpting other areas).
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Oct 29, 2018 04:13
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tehsid posted:I'd just started painting the mini when I realised I hadn't drilled it... And said ah gently caress it. But I might try painting it on and hope for the best. You can honestly drill after painting and just put regular paint in the hole without priming again. The inside of a barrel will never chip.
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Oct 29, 2018 05:54
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Avenging Dentist posted:Aside from ProCreate, what putties do folks like for sculpting (not just gap-filling)? Ideally, I'd like something neutral-colored, fairly stiff, and sandable; but really, I'll take any suggestions. I have a feeling that the ProCreate formulation is behind the problems I'm having with sculpting stuff (cured putty just disintegrates after handling it for a while, i.e. when sculpting other areas). I use Apoxie for bases and small terrain pieces. It's light gray, very rigid when fully cured, and I think it takes to sanding pretty well, but I haven't had many occasions to sand it. It also cleans up and smooths with water until it sets. They used to only sell it on eBay, but now you can find it on Amazon.
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Oct 29, 2018 06:38
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Mugaaz posted:Need some help with edge highlighting. I struggle with this alot. I want to do a black armor scheme, but that will require a ton of edge highlighting and I am just not very good at it. I think the biggest problem I am getting is getting the paint the exact right consistency to go on easily without being too thin to control, and then loading the brush right to be able to apply it smoothly without it getting out of control. It just seems to incredibly fiddly. My brush control feels ok tbh, but getting the paint to apply right is a nightmare. Like this: _\ o|\ Where you're dragging it along a line into or out of the screen. Does that make any sense? It's hard to describe, but it's way easier than just trying to paint the edge. And if you wipe most of the paint off the brush, you can get razor-thin edge highlights.
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Oct 29, 2018 06:40
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Ilor posted:I think one of your biggest issues is that you're using too light a gray color. You'll want to build up to that, not jump straight to it. Also, it almost looks like you're trying to follow the lines - don't; instead, hold your brush perpendicular to the edge line and at like a 45 degree angle to the corner. Large sections of detail are not that strong / not raised enough from the next level to just follow the edge at 45 degrees. I agree about how you want the paint on the brush, but getting the paint thin enough to flow eell, thick enough to not run, and then loading the brush exactly right is a difficult trifecta. I'm trying but getting that part right is incredibly challenging. I don't think agree about the color being too light here, seems like it was a few shades too dark. I tried again, it went a little better, but still not working overall.  Anyway, don't think this is gonna happen, just too far beyond my skill right now. Mugaaz fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Oct 29, 2018 |
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Oct 29, 2018 07:39
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Mugaaz posted:Large sections of detail are not that strong / not raised enough from the next level to just follow the edge at 45 degrees. I agree about how you want the paint on the brush, but getting the paint thin enough to flow eell, thick enough to not run, and then loading the brush exactly right is a difficult trifecta. I'm trying but getting that part right is incredibly challenging. I don't think agree about the color being too light here, seems like it was a few shades too dark. I tried again, it went a little better, but still not working overall. Have you got a good brush? My painting experience just went night and day after I got the GW artificer set, which is just the renamed W&N S7 I believe. Edge highlighting is a whole different thing after that.
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Oct 29, 2018 08:12
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Mugaaz posted:Large sections of detail are not that strong / not raised enough from the next level to just follow the edge at 45 degrees. I agree about how you want the paint on the brush, but getting the paint thin enough to flow eell, thick enough to not run, and then loading the brush exactly right is a difficult trifecta. I'm trying but getting that part right is incredibly challenging. I don't think agree about the color being too light here, seems like it was a few shades too dark. I tried again, it went a little better, but still not working overall. I think Ilor's right, maybe it's the picture but the grey does look a lot lighter for the main highlight colour, it looks like Dawnstone or VMC Medium Sea Grey which I'd use a the 2nd stage highlight and in much more conservative quantities. Over black a good highlight colour is Eschin Grey (for a grey/black, or Incubi Darkness for a blue/black), then a few thin highlight layers of Dawnstone/medium grey in much much smaller quantities, and a final couple of dots of light grey (ulthuan) in the centre/corners of the lines).  This guy was: Highlight 1) Most of the edges in Eshin Grey (which is very dark grey if you're not a citadel paint user) thinned a lot. 2) Same again but inside the lines to build up the contrast 3) Dawnstone inside some of the highlights, again a couple of times 4) A couple of dots of Ulthuan to fake reflection, on the centre of lines and corners (toe caps, corners of armour plates etc..) It's clearer with a close up on the face, where the 3 colours are more obvious, and you can see where some of the greys have been built up over a few layers. And the neck guard bit for the layers + highlights combo. 
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Oct 29, 2018 08:20
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I don't think the brighter highlight is a problem, because in the few places where I was able to make uniform lines with similar paint consistency, the effect looks good to me. The problem I see is that the lines and paint consistency doesn't maintain its uniformity. The only drawback I see to the brighter highlight is that it makes each mistake more glaringly obvious. I don't see a point for subtler shade with the edge highlight when the object is supposed to be a reflective surface. Here is a photo of what I wanted to mimic. You can see the edge highlight is very bright. Unfortunately I'm not Giraldez. 
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Oct 29, 2018 08:34
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Mugaaz posted:I don't think the brighter highlight is a problem, because in the few places where I was able to make uniform lines with similar paint consistency, the effect looks good to me. The problem I see is that the lines and paint consistency doesn't maintain its uniformity. The only drawback I see to the brighter highlight is that it makes each mistake more glaringly obvious. I don't see a point for subtler shade with the edge highlight when the object is supposed to be a reflective surface. The brighter highlights work there because a majority of the armour plates are grey, so the highlights aren't as stark against them. Looks like a gradient of the first highlight has been airbrushed over the model, so the first highlight lines will blend into the grey areas of the armour as they start or end in the gradient. I painted those exact guys a while ago, but without an airbrush the best I could do was using a super dark grey base coat followed by the same colours I mentioned above.  Apologies for potato camera picture.
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Oct 29, 2018 08:41
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Mugaaz posted:I don't think the brighter highlight is a problem, because in the few places where I was able to make uniform lines with similar paint consistency, the effect looks good to me. The problem I see is that the lines and paint consistency doesn't maintain its uniformity. The only drawback I see to the brighter highlight is that it makes each mistake more glaringly obvious. I don't see a point for subtler shade with the edge highlight when the object is supposed to be a reflective surface. Use a Dark Grey base, thick medium grey edge highlights and finer bright highlights like you have done. Then wash repeatedly with black ink. It'll darken the shadowed areas and mask any sloppy transitions.
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Oct 29, 2018 09:15
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Black is hard to edge highlight at the best of times. Building them up from a darker grey is absolutely the way to go.
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Oct 29, 2018 09:35
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Mugaaz posted:. Unless you have been painting full-time for a several years, this shouldn't be a surprise. The only person you should compare yourself to is your own work history. You will see how much better you are each time. As for painting black armor: Jack of Clubs - Black Templar tutorial
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Oct 29, 2018 12:23
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