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I ended up using some fiberglass mesh drywall joint tape that I had sitting around. I don't know if its more or less effective than nothing at all. Unrelated- is there a way to polish brass without actually doing any polishing? I have these brass house numbers and I was cleaning things up outside and started halfway polishing one with some car polish to see what would happen, and I like that it looks shiny, but I don't want to polish all of them by hand (my address has 5 numbers). If not, is there a way to re-weather the one I polished?
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Oct 29, 2018 00:05
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FogHelmut posted:I ended up using some fiberglass mesh drywall joint tape that I had sitting around. I don't know if its more or less effective than nothing at all. Got some lemon juice and a ultrasonic parts bath? (if you have any jewelry with gemstones in it a cheap ultrasonic bath off Amazon will work wonders on making them shine like new. Christmas is coming. You can literally use dish soap and warm water.)
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Oct 29, 2018 00:24
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H110Hawk posted:Got some lemon juice and a ultrasonic parts bath? To piggyback on this recommendation. Is there specific types of jewelry that would be bad to clean in an ultrasonic cleaner bath?
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Oct 29, 2018 00:33
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tangy yet delightful posted:To piggyback on this recommendation. Is there specific types of jewelry that would be bad to clean in an ultrasonic cleaner bath? Anything permeable. Don't do your pearls in there, for example. But if it's gold/silver/platinum and gemstones? Go for it. It's literally all the jewelry store is doing for your "Free Cleaning!!!" Just rinse it off in a cup of warm water and make sure all of your gemstones are there before you dump out any water. (Or I guess dump it out through a fine mesh strainer?) This is what is currently coming up for the one I bought in 2011 for $30.98 which looks nothing like it: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SOQ6KQ/
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Oct 29, 2018 00:54
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H110Hawk posted:Anything permeable. Don't do your pearls in there, for example. But if it's gold/silver/platinum and gemstones? Go for it. It's literally all the jewelry store is doing for your "Free Cleaning!!!" Just rinse it off in a cup of warm water and make sure all of your gemstones are there before you dump out any water. (Or I guess dump it out through a fine mesh strainer?) Gemstones are not universally safe in an ultrasonic cleaner - definitely research before throwing something in there!
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Oct 29, 2018 02:15
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armorer posted:Gemstones are not universally safe in an ultrasonic cleaner - definitely research before throwing something in there! For example? Edit: huh. https://4cs.gia.edu/en-us/blog/gems-ultrasonic-cleaners/
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Oct 29, 2018 02:26
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FogHelmut posted:I ended up using some fiberglass mesh drywall joint tape that I had sitting around. I don't know if its more or less effective than nothing at all. If it won't hurt what the numbers are mounted to, some brasso and this guy: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-buffing-wheel-34743.html
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Oct 29, 2018 04:18
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This leaks, only when the shower is on. It's coming down (presumably) on the other side of that wall as well as where you can see it running down the wall; it leaks through floorboards into the bathroom underneath. I've never been inside the walls here, but they're pine planks over an airgap, in front of the cedar logs that form the structure (or in this case, and the other interior walls, the pine siding on the other side and maybe (??) some insulation). I'm hoping it's just a matter of replacing the pipe there which I am also hoping is on a screw joint; if I have to replace something that needs solder, I'll have to learn how to do that. I can turn off the water supply to that line; is there anything else I should be considering before I start carefully prying boards off? I have no plumbing experience aside from stuff like taking traps apart; I would call someone to do the pipe work once I get the wall apart, but I live far enough from civilization that the best response I have so far is "we'll be there in January", so it looks like I am on my own. Cabbages and VHS fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Oct 29, 2018 |
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Oct 29, 2018 18:30
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It's probably not screwed in all the way. Or something is damaged inside. But this is the easiest thing to check first. Here is a good example of what to do - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GobNAuKD7rk
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Oct 29, 2018 20:29
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FogHelmut posted:It's probably not screwed in all the way. Or something is damaged inside. But this is the easiest thing to check first. Yup, I will try that before I open the wall, I think the likely situation is that the teflon tape making the seal is 20 years old and I created a small channel when I yanked it around replacing the showerhead ~6 months ago. At first it was just a tiny drip and now it's gotten more and more signficant, I think there's a little gap that water is making progressively bigger (or was, until we saw what was happening and resigned ourselves to baths until it's fixed) edit: removed the old arm, and if it's just leaking from that socket on the threaded side, then it looks like I don't have to take the wall apart at all. Which is great, except I was sort of looking forward to it, since I don't have any pictures of the interior structure here. Hopefully I'll just have to save that for another project. Cabbages and VHS fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Oct 30, 2018 |
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Oct 30, 2018 16:56
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That Brasso works great, but that car polish put a mirror finish on the one number. I'll remove the tarnish with the Brasso and do a light polish afterward to get it to shine. Should be less work than polishing all of the tarnish off.
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Oct 30, 2018 18:56
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FogHelmut posted:That Brasso works great, but that car polish put a mirror finish on the one number. I'll remove the tarnish with the Brasso and do a light polish afterward to get it to shine. Should be less work than polishing all of the tarnish off. Polishing brass builds character. Gonna go polish my knobs tonight. Been at least a year.
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Oct 31, 2018 17:21
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LingcodKilla posted:
Impressive self control
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Oct 31, 2018 17:28
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Impressive self control No Nut November starts tomorrow.
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Oct 31, 2018 23:02
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I'm having some trouble with my sump drainage. The drain pipe comes up from basement, out the side of the house, down and under a concrete patio, and empties into the yard. Last summer the drain in the yard got buried/clogged with yard waste. I discovered this last winter when the sump started running continuously and water wasn't draining. As a short term fix, I just disconnected the hose on the side of the house and let the water spray out over the patio rather than running underneath and into the yard. I just sprayed the hose down the drainage pipe for 5 minutes until I found the wet spot in the yard. So I've rediscovered where the drain pipe ends, but now I need to clear it out and prevent it from clogging in the future. I see all sorts of grill grates/etc at HD or whatever, but I'm not sure what is used for collecting water as opposed to expelling or anything else I need to know. This is in the middle of my backyard, so ideally there'd be some sort of grate that prevents most grass/leaves from getting in, is easy to clean out, and can be mowed over. Any recommendations?
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Oct 31, 2018 23:27
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I cobbled together something similar for my sunroom roof drainage, which I ran under the patio; Bought a plastic box drain at Home Depot, ( similar to this: https://drainagedirect.com/12-x-12-...5BoCub4QAvD_BwE ) and cut the bottom out; dug a hole about 2’ deep & filled it halfway with small stones, making a French drain; put the box in it, intake on the side (from the downspout); top got a plastic grate, for overflow, which was flush with grade.
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Oct 31, 2018 23:47
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Mr Executive posted:I'm having some trouble with my sump drainage. The drain pipe comes up from basement, out the side of the house, down and under a concrete patio, and empties into the yard. Last summer the drain in the yard got buried/clogged with yard waste. I discovered this last winter when the sump started running continuously and water wasn't draining. As a short term fix, I just disconnected the hose on the side of the house and let the water spray out over the patio rather than running underneath and into the yard. Pop up drain AKA emitter.
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Nov 1, 2018 00:06
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PainterofCrap posted:I cobbled together something similar for my sunroom roof drainage, which I ran under the patio; This is what I was originally thinking kid sinister posted:Pop up drain AKA emitter. But this looks perfect. Thanks
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Nov 1, 2018 20:42
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I'm having issues with my electric garage door opener . Every so often it will bind on the way up, always at the same spot, the door maybe 8" off the ground. When it binds its like the bar the trolley rides on bends then lurches, the opener stops. The next time I push the button the door travels down, then starts going up and always goes up smoothly. When I disengage the door from the opener it slides easily by hand. Chain tension seems even on both sides. I've tried adjusting the closed stop point, the angle of the arm connecting the door to the trolley and neither thing seemed to help. Any thoughts?
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Nov 1, 2018 23:00
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Sound_man posted:I'm having issues with my electric garage door opener . Lube the rollers on both sides and see if it binds. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Nov 2, 2018 |
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Nov 2, 2018 01:54
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Sound_man posted:I'm having issues with my electric garage door opener . As the door operates smoothly without the opener I'd be looking at the opener as the problem. If you can, detach the trolley from the opener and make sure that it slides smoothly along its track, also make sure the sprockets (I'm assuming it's a chain drive) are in good shape, properly lubed, and not binding.
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Nov 2, 2018 15:14
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Two quick questions. 1. I need to bug-bomb my kitchen, I live upstairs in weird former 1930's central business district housing, above shops etc. I have contacted my direct downstairs neighbors and their shop has no pilot lights I need to worry about. How much do I need to worry about bleed of chemicals? There is a cafe a bit down downstairs (it was all built as a few giant buildings in 1930s), do I need to let them know? There is an alley about 3 foot wide next to my kitchen which probably has AC and other stuff, that shouldnt be an issue right? Sorry if this is dumb, just hate to gently caress this setup up. 2. The seal on my fridge has a massive gap on the top-right (farthest from hinge) like quarter/half inch (got damaged moving it here). I tried various makeshift options like patching with layers of tape and plastic, and the hairdryer thing. Nothing was particularly successful. Its a fantastic fridge besides that, is there some way to repair the seal? I have also read that most seal-replacements are bullshit, is that true? Should I pay a mans to replace?
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Nov 3, 2018 00:17
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PremiumSupport posted:As the door operates smoothly without the opener I'd be looking at the opener as the problem. If you can, detach the trolley from the opener and make sure that it slides smoothly along its track, also make sure the sprockets (I'm assuming it's a chain drive) are in good shape, properly lubed, and not binding. The chain was pretty dry, I hit it with some lube and will report back in a few days to see if it helped at all.
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Nov 3, 2018 00:23
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Perpetual Hiatus posted:Two quick questions. Just bomb your place per the product instructions. The poo poo isn't mustard gas. Is it a gap due to the door not closing or because there is physical material missing from the seal itself?
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Nov 3, 2018 01:24
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For lack of any idea of a better thread, I'm asking here. I want to make some custom stencils to apply to a clay pot I'm making, from images like this one. Printer paper is too flimsy to manage fine details; the paper will just kind of crumple instead of make a sharp point, for example. I need a material that can keep reasonably fine details, that I can hand-cut with a utility or X-acto knife, but that's flexible enough that it can follow a curved surface reasonably well. I recognize that no sheet can perfectly follow a surface that's curved about two axes like a pot is, but some curvature is better than nothing. Would a mylar sheet work for this? If so, what thickness should I be looking to get? Googling for "mylar flexibility" returns plenty of hits saying "oh yes, it's flexible", but none saying e.g. "4mil mylar has a minimum bend radius of 2 inches, 10mil has a minimum bend radius of 1 foot" (numbers completely made up). If mylar's not appropriate for this use, then what should I use?
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Nov 3, 2018 02:02
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:For lack of any idea of a better thread, I'm asking here. I want to make some custom stencils to apply to a clay pot I'm making, from images like this one. Printer paper is too flimsy to manage fine details; the paper will just kind of crumple instead of make a sharp point, for example. I need a material that can keep reasonably fine details, that I can hand-cut with a utility or X-acto knife, but that's flexible enough that it can follow a curved surface reasonably well. I recognize that no sheet can perfectly follow a surface that's curved about two axes like a pot is, but some curvature is better than nothing. Buy stick on vinyl in the craft section of Walmart
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Nov 3, 2018 02:05
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BigFactory posted:Buy stick on vinyl in the craft section of Walmart Try to find a friend with a vinyl cutter. (I have one, but way down south of you.)
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Nov 3, 2018 02:09
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BigFactory posted:Buy stick on vinyl in the craft section of Walmart OK, vinyl's also an option. Though I wouldn't want stick-on; the goal here is to apply glaze through the stencil (then wax resist, then remove the stencil and dip the entire piece in a different glaze). So the stencil wouldn't be "consumed" in the process. Finding vinyl sheets that don't have "permanent" adhesive on them is proving a little tricky...but I guess I could just not remove the backing to expose the adhesive.
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Nov 3, 2018 02:09
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tangy yet delightful posted:Is it a gap due to the door not closing or because there is physical material missing from the seal itself? The last inch or so has been heavily compressed so it doesnt seal with a gap of maybe quarter inch, all the rest of the seals around the fridge door have good contact. If I push the door in with a fair amount of pressure that last inch will will seal. This brings that side of the door about 3/4 inch further in than the freezer door.
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Nov 3, 2018 03:19
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Perpetual Hiatus posted:The last inch or so has been heavily compressed so it doesnt seal with a gap of maybe quarter inch, all the rest of the seals around the fridge door have good contact. If I push the door in with a fair amount of pressure that last inch will will seal. This brings that side of the door about 3/4 inch further in than the freezer door. Canned foam solves all holes. (Do not do this.) I bet stacking up 3m foam tape would give you a good seal.
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Nov 3, 2018 03:51
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H110Hawk posted:Canned foam solves all holes. (Do not do this.) I bet stacking up 3m foam tape would give you a good seal. Including driving to the shop that fixed my problem in around 8 minutes! Thanks so much 
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Nov 3, 2018 04:52
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:For lack of any idea of a better thread, I'm asking here. I want to make some custom stencils to apply to a clay pot I'm making, from images like this one. Printer paper is too flimsy to manage fine details; the paper will just kind of crumple instead of make a sharp point, for example. I need a material that can keep reasonably fine details, that I can hand-cut with a utility or X-acto knife, but that's flexible enough that it can follow a curved surface reasonably well. I recognize that no sheet can perfectly follow a surface that's curved about two axes like a pot is, but some curvature is better than nothing. For one off stencils I've had good luck with manila file folders, card stock or overhead transparency sheets. All of which should be able to be feed into any printer. For ones you want to last for multiple jobs there are people on Etsy that will turn them out for you pretty quick.
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Nov 3, 2018 15:03
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Quick plumbing question. The water heater that came with my house (80 Gallon Whirlpool Electric Water Heater) sprung a leak in the bottom. Instead of waiting and living without hot water in my house for over a week for my home warranty to deal with it, I went out and bought a Rheem dual 4500 watt elements 50 gallon water heater and hooked it up myself. I purchase a preformed PVC relief valve pipe and installed it and powered everything up (I filled the tank and bled the lines before I powered it on). The tank is set to 120F on both elements so I hopefully won't get legionnaires disease. The water feels much hotter coming from this tank than it did from the old one and the old one appears to have been set at 120F too but who knows how that thing was actually functioning. TL;DR the TPV valve itself is hot to the touch and there is an INCREDIBLY slow drip coming from where the relief valve pipe is connected to the pressure relief valve itself. 1.) I am already trying to get a hold of a professional plumber to come take a look. 2.) I do not have a hot water expansion tank, but neither did the previous unit. 3.) I have no idea if my system is open or closed. I don't see any sort of pressure control in my house, just a big rear end red handle to shut off the main. 4.) I do not have a pressure gauge to test. I could to buy one real fast and see what my pressure actually is to make sure it isn't over 80 psi. My question is, despite this slow drip, is it safe to leave the water heater on and functioning so my family and I have hot water to use until I can get a plumber into my home to inspect or is my house going to blow up and send a hot water heater into orbit?
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Nov 4, 2018 22:46
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theSpokeyDokey posted:Quick plumbing question. 120F isn't hot enough, you need 140F but that can cause burns nearly instantly. If you manage to get a plumber to show up, ask about installing a tempering/mixing valve. Are you sure it's actually 120F water coming out of the facuet after it runs for a little while? I'm wondering if you somehow managed to set it much hotter. I'd suggest try pulling on the TPV valve. Maybe it's got some crap stuck in it from the factory? If it were me, I'd shut off the breakers to the water heater at night time / when you're away until you can figure out WTF. There's enough insulation in modern heaters that it'll stay warm pretty well.
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Nov 4, 2018 23:15
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devicenull posted:120F isn't hot enough, you need 140F but that can cause burns nearly instantly. If you manage to get a plumber to show up, ask about installing a tempering/mixing valve. That's what I was thinking, but the rear end in a top hat wired the furnace to the same breaker so if I shut it off, I have no emergency heat of the heat drops below what my heat pump can handle. Although freezing a little bit at night and house exploding are very different animals. I am actually starting to think, since the leak is coming from the silver nut on the PVC relief valve pipe, it might just be a poo poo tape thread job and water is just dripping from leftover water in the pipe from when I tested the pressure relief valve the first time. Edit: I've actually determined the drip that is coming from between the silver nut and the PVC pipe is residual water from testing the pressure release valve that is escaping when I move the drain pipe sideways to get the bucket out from under it. I have taken thermal readings from the downstairs and upstairs tap on the hottest setting several hours after install and they are roughly 115F +/-4F (which is the variance on the IR thermometer I used). Seems like everything is staying heated and pressurized properly. theSpokeyDokey fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Nov 5, 2018 |
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Nov 4, 2018 23:40
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I'm still dealing with a fridge that doesn't work right. I went digging to locate the compressor relay, to see if it was bad and discovered that this fridge has an inverter compressor. I pulled the compressor inverter control board, but I have no idea how to determine if it is working properly or not. The compressor and board are made by Embraco. The compressor part # appears to be VEGY 6H, and the board appears to be part number SDGY001FL. Any thoughts on checking if this thing is working? With the fridge on, and my head down near the compressor and this board, I heard what sounded like something energizing and then failing, repeatedly. It was pretty quiet though. Edit: Actually googling for "troubleshooting inverter compressor" turned up some stuff to try. I'll still take pointers though if anyone has any. armorer fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Nov 7, 2018 |
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Nov 7, 2018 02:09
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Hoping to get some work done on my house by a professional, calling around and trying to get estimates/quotes. What are the steps to take to properly check out a contractor? What should I be looking for?
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Nov 7, 2018 02:28
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CzarChasm posted:Hoping to get some work done on my house by a professional, calling around and trying to get estimates/quotes. What are the steps to take to properly check out a contractor? What should I be looking for? Same as a lot of things, actually. Referrals from past customers, online reviews, Yelp, search for their name/business name on Google. If you're lucky, your state has some form of registration or better yet, licensing. For example, in Pennsylvania, you can search here: https://www.attorneygeneral.gov/resources/home-improvement-contractor-registration/ Beyond research, try to structure payments at various checkpoints along the process (avoiding lump sum payments near the beginning), and if they require the upfront purchase of materials, insist that the materials are stored on-site (i.e. you own them.) Any payments you can put on credit cards are a huge win, because if there's theft or fraud, the CC company will figure it out for you and probably refund your money. In general, you should be looking for years of experience and asking who will actually be doing the work if the contractor has other employees. You want them to have insurance for property damage and injuries. It helps to be somewhat knowledgeable as to what the job entails so you can ask important questions: e.g. new tile shower, what type of waterproofing is done, how is the plumbing done, etc. If permits are required (and they almost always are), ensure they get pulled properly and inspected as necessary. Here, the local inspector can be your friend. Finally, as with anything, going with the lowest cost guy is almost always not the best idea.
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Nov 7, 2018 03:12
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Sometimes the low cost guy is great if you know what you’re getting in to. It might mean paying a deposit or dealing with a weird schedule but the work can still be good.
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Nov 7, 2018 12:12
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What's a good way to fake natural daylight? I've got a room with only one window, and it faces west, so it gets almost no light in the mornings, but running all of my regular lamps in there makes it feel like it's always night time. I can't add a skylight or another window, so I think lamps and maybe a big mirror are my only options. Is there any difference between sticking a 5000k bulb in a regular lamp vs. one of those "light therapy" daylight lamps? Are they a good substitute for natural light? Right now I have 2700k CFL bulbs in most of the sockets in that room. Any brands/styles to avoid? I don't mind manually turning it on and off as the day goes on, so I haven't looked at any of the automated or smart bulb options, but if there are any I should consider, let me know.
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Nov 10, 2018 20:51
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