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So this morning I pulled all the tape off and went off to the store to find something to use for the door liner. I wish I thought of this earlier, and it was on sale: Rougly lined it out, guessing it is about 8-10mil plastic, and slapped it on. Here's how it looked! I covered pretty much the entire door, cutting a hole for the handle and the wire bundle. I put little Xs where each of the screw/clip holes went. It held on even after about ten attempts to put that stupid top of the door in the window slot.  it seemed to all hold up, the only issue with putting that stuff on was that it was about 95 degrees in that garage so the 3M caulk was already melting in the box! But I got it on just fine and I'll probably store the rest of it indoors somewhere, wrapped up in plastic to keep it dry.   I thought I had missed something by how much the door bows inwards when I close it... but I looked at the other door and it's the same way, so I guess that's just how the door is and I've never noticed it.  I've got to put a list together of the to-dos on the Squire. I'm planning to drive from Dallas to Chicago and back in November, and I'd like to take the Squire. But I've got to fix some more things first!  Edit: There are also two shows coming up, and I'd like to have SOME things done by then. Luxrage fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Aug 18, 2018 |
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Aug 18, 2018 21:38
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I'm gonna pull out the headlights and replace them today, see about cleaning up some of the wood trim that's peeling as well. I found out that the two shows I was planning on going to are happening at the same exact time which really cheeses me!   I also got invited to an AutoCross event, but the only car I have to do it with is the Squire. I am trying to sell the Crown Vic and the Truck isn't really an autocross kind of thing, so it would have to be the Squire... I'm just worried I'm gonna break something. I guess the counter to that is the Squire is such a barge I won't be going very fast into these corners and things so it will probably be fine. Anyways, I'm gonna go pull the front trim and grill off and replace those lights.
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Aug 23, 2018 16:32
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A Squire autocrossing would be hilarious. One time, one of the regular’s vehicles was unavailable, so he autocrossed a rental 2000s FWD Monte Carlo. It was epic as it wallowed all over the course with its super soft base-model suspension and budget tires. Added hilarity for him signaling every turn.
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Aug 23, 2018 17:43
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Darchangel posted:A Squire autocrossing would be hilarious. One time, one of the regular’s vehicles was unavailable, so he autocrossed a rental 2000s FWD Monte Carlo. It was epic as it wallowed all over the course with its super soft base-model suspension and budget tires. Added hilarity for him signaling every turn. I asked for more info and it turns out it's not exactly an autocross event, it's Tire Rack Street Survival which: quote:The primary emphasis of the Tire Rack Street Survival® is a "hands-on" driving experience in real-world situations! We use your own car to teach you about its handling limits and how you can control them.  This sounds rad as hell, I am absolutely going to this so that I can find out just how hard I can throw the squire around some slaloms and soaped up wet tracks! It keeps asking me about being a teenager, but the guy organizing this at work insists we can all just sign up without an issue... so we'll see! Anyways, pulled the headlight surrounds off the car, figured while I was at it, I'd pull the grille off to see if that ford emblem was stuck on or part of an assembly.  Turns out the ford emblem is a big vinyl rubber sticker just popped on the front. I don't know if I can find a replacement, but if I can get the right size, I'll put a new ford emblem in the spot!  Of course one of the new low beams popped within 5 minutes. Also the corner lamp on the bottom left is picky about the socket. So after a trip to the store I got that sorted out:  Putting it on and off a bunch of times I began to notice the Quality is Job #1 on this car. The parking lamp lens wasn't seated flush and the grill is slightly off center... did I mention it is ALL plastic?!?!  Edit: Signed up for Arts and Autos. I like that show a lot and it has been pretty busy the last two years. Supposed to be sunny that day, too! Luxrage fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Aug 23, 2018 |
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Aug 23, 2018 21:07
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I'm having trouble getting a window regulator from the scrapyard. Can't force the window down so I can reach the rivets attaching the window glass. All the other rivets came out easy enough. Is there a trick to getting the window down without power?
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Sep 2, 2018 20:08
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lampey posted:I'm having trouble getting a window regulator from the scrapyard. Can't force the window down so I can reach the rivets attaching the window glass. All the other rivets came out easy enough. Is there a trick to getting the window down without power? Got an M12 power tool and some beefy alligator clip wires?
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Sep 2, 2018 20:20
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Raluek posted:Got an M12 power tool and some beefy alligator clip wires? Using a drill battery did the trick. 18v worked fine for the power window motor. Thanks
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Sep 4, 2018 01:20
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I did that to move a power seat to get to the mounting bolts to get it out (was snagging carpet for my cop car with rubber flooring). Always carry a length of speaker wire in my kit, but in a wrecking yard there’s tons of wiring to plunder.
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Sep 6, 2018 17:23
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I've used piano wire/bailing wire to do the same thing. Much more of a pain in the rear end because of the lack of insulation and trying to hold the wires away from everything else, but it can be done. I wonder if anyone makes some sort of adapter for 12V power tool batteries that just has a couple of screw terminals on top...hmm.
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Sep 6, 2018 19:42
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boxen posted:
This is a job for... 3D printing!
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Sep 6, 2018 20:02
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Darchangel posted:This is a job for... 3D printing! *Eyes "not for personal use" 3D printer at work speculatively*
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Sep 6, 2018 21:41
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boxen posted:*Eyes "not for personal use" 3D printer at work speculatively* It's training, not personal use.
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Sep 6, 2018 23:58
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Drove the Crown Vic to Austin for business (annual departmental "camp".) Got 20.7 MPG out of it, almost entirely highway. 60-80 MPH on cruise control whenever possible. *Almost* made it there and back on one tank. Had to stop in Alvarado (about 40 miles from home) to fill up. 366 miles on 17.7 gallons. Probably could have made it (20 gallon tank) but I really had no desire to chance being stuck on the side of the highway.
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Sep 10, 2018 16:22
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So my car made a funny noise, got out and found the #4 coil/boot laying up on the valve cover, and the spark plug itself wiggled when I poked it with a screwdriver. On a scale of lol to you're hosed, how likely is it that I've avoided the Modular curse, and the spark plug just happened to loosen on its own over time? My phone camera is lovely and dying and wouldn't focus normally, so here's an artsy silhouette (click for huge). I couldn't get the plug out the first time I pulled over, but I heard a clunk about 1000 feet down the road, pulled over again and it was resting up near the heater core ports. I don't know if it was initially like this or if that's impact damage from getting shot out, but the ground electrode looks awfully close for a plug of indeterminate mileage, and the center electrode has a weird lump on one side. I don't see any aluminum gumming up the threads, but I can't get a good angle down the plug hole to see if the threads in the head are hosed or not.  If this was the notorious thread issue, should I get inserts on all 8 cylinders or just this one?
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Sep 24, 2018 04:41
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Fender Anarchist posted:So my car made a funny noise, got out and found the #4 coil/boot laying up on the valve cover, and the spark plug itself wiggled when I poked it with a screwdriver. On a scale of lol to you're hosed, how likely is it that I've avoided the Modular curse, and the spark plug just happened to loosen on its own over time? The spark plug blew two different times for me. It was the two spark plugs closest to the firewall, one happened three years after the other. I'm not sure if it is just more likely that those spark plugs are crossthreaded because it is harder to get to them, or if it has something to do with coolant or water getting under the boot. But either way it is less common to happen to the other 6.
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Sep 24, 2018 18:17
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The electrode is almost certainly from being banged around outside of the engine. I'd agree that if there isn't aluminum on the threads, it just wasn't tight and worked itself out over time. Put a new one in (or that one as a test - you can probably fix the electrode with a gapping, tool, even) and see if it will tighten up satisfactorily. Don't forget anti-seize!
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Sep 24, 2018 18:23
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 hey guys i was linked this thread in the newbie questions thread. I inherited this dope 1999 lincoln town car. Figured maybe you'd like to see it. It has literally every single possible bell and whistle i've ever heard of on a car
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Sep 30, 2018 23:14
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Darchangel posted:Don't forget anti-seize! Does ford still use uncoated plugs in the mod motor? 
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Oct 1, 2018 07:21
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Does anyone know anything about the "presidential" trim package for the early 2000s Towncars? The receptionist at my company is this old lady and it's her daily. It's seriously the nicest looking panther body I've ever seen. Seriously it's always waxed and look brand new. I'll post a picture later today when I get a chance.
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Oct 1, 2018 15:35
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64bit_Dophins posted:Does anyone know anything about the "presidential" trim package for the early 2000s Towncars? Hadn't heard of those before so I did a bit of searching and it seems like it's a dealer-installed add-on rather than anything factory. I haven't been able to nail down exactly what it adds but it's apparently nothing functional, just an appearance package.
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Oct 2, 2018 04:53
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I bought a 2003 Mercury Marauder a few months ago about a week before going overseas for work. The rear end needs a rebuild and I'm going to be home in another few weeks so I'm starting to look into parts. Planning on putting 4.10's in it while it's apart, then a tune and exhaust after the rear end is sorted out. Is it worth upgrading to 31 spline axles since the spider gears are hosed up anyhow and need to be replaced or will I be fine with the stock 28 spline axles?
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Oct 24, 2018 17:21
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J Corp posted:I bought a 2003 Mercury Marauder a few months ago about a week before going overseas for work. The rear end needs a rebuild and I'm going to be home in another few weeks so I'm starting to look into parts. Planning on putting 4.10's in it while it's apart, then a tune and exhaust after the rear end is sorted out. Is it worth upgrading to 31 spline axles since the spider gears are hosed up anyhow and need to be replaced or will I be fine with the stock 28 spline axles? Looking at a few Mustang forums the general conclusion seems to be that the people breaking axles are mostly on slicks and either have manual transmissions or transbrakes that let them produce serious shock loads. If you're going to stick with the automatic and run street tires you probably don't need to worry about it. That said, it looks like the axle shafts aren't all that expensive so depending on how much you're putting in to the center section it might be basically a "why not?" situation where you don't really need it but if you're already in there you may as well make it as good as you can and feel free to hoon the gently caress out of it without concern.
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Oct 24, 2018 20:39
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wolrah posted:That said, it looks like the axle shafts aren't all that expensive so depending on how much you're putting in to the center section it might be basically a "why not?" situation where you don't really need it but if you're already in there you may as well make it as good as you can and feel free to hoon the gently caress out of it without concern. That's kinda what I was thinking, though I'm having a little bit of trouble figuring out whether I can just replace the stock spider gears with 31's in the current carrier or if I would need a new carrier as well. Anybody know the answer to this? I'm also assuming like you said that without drastically increasing power (like with a supercharger), I'd probably be fine running stock axles. It's really a cost/benefit thing. If it's only slightly more to upgrade I don't see why not, but if it's going to be an extra $500+ dollars and it won't make a difference, why bother?
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Oct 25, 2018 20:34
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J Corp posted:That's kinda what I was thinking, though I'm having a little bit of trouble figuring out whether I can just replace the stock spider gears with 31's in the current carrier or if I would need a new carrier as well. Anybody know the answer to this? I'm also assuming like you said that without drastically increasing power (like with a supercharger), I'd probably be fine running stock axles. It's really a cost/benefit thing. If it's only slightly more to upgrade I don't see why not, but if it's going to be an extra $500+ dollars and it won't make a difference, why bother? No, you see, if you get the axles, then you can say "well, I beefed up everything else, so now I may as well install a supercharger to make that work worthwhile."
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Oct 25, 2018 22:50
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J Corp posted:That's kinda what I was thinking, though I'm having a little bit of trouble figuring out whether I can just replace the stock spider gears with 31's in the current carrier or if I would need a new carrier as well. Anybody know the answer to this? I'm also assuming like you said that without drastically increasing power (like with a supercharger), I'd probably be fine running stock axles. It's really a cost/benefit thing. If it's only slightly more to upgrade I don't see why not, but if it's going to be an extra $500+ dollars and it won't make a difference, why bother? It does seem like the entire carrier needs to be replaced, not just the spiders. All you keep are the tube and the outer bearings. The question I guess would be if the spider gears are hosed is the limited slip as well? The more parts you have to replace the easier it gets to justify, especially if you're considering meaningful power upgrades at some point in the future. The actual cost difference seems to be almost negligible between 28 and 31 spline bits, it's just a matter of how many good parts you'd be throwing away. If you're not planning to add boost or go to a manual transmission it's almost certainly pointless.
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Oct 26, 2018 00:10
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Alright kids, time for the latest adventures of the world's least reliable Panther. Had to get a tow home last night when the car started losing speed on the highway. I pulled a VSS code, gave them my old ABS module to reinstall just in cast that being absent was causing some fuckiness with the sensor signal but no dice, still has issues. The shop is saying the trans is borked and needs a rebuild, because of loving course it does. E: I pulled the ABS because it has never worked and I wanted to inspect it/get a part # in case I ever decide to replace it, I meant to reinstall, just didn't out of laziness. /E How likely is it that there's just a corroded pin or the sensor's toast and the expensive bits are actually fine? Code is a P062C, car seems fine through 1st and 2nd but has no 3rd or above.
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Nov 10, 2018 21:18
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J Corp posted:I bought a 2003 Mercury Marauder a few months ago about a week before going overseas for work. The rear end needs a rebuild and I'm going to be home in another few weeks so I'm starting to look into parts. Planning on putting 4.10's in it while it's apart, then a tune and exhaust after the rear end is sorted out. Is it worth upgrading to 31 spline axles since the spider gears are hosed up anyhow and need to be replaced or will I be fine with the stock 28 spline axles? Did you get your leather jacket?
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Nov 10, 2018 21:42
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Fender, are you sure it’s third and above, and not just OD? How does it drive with the OD off? I ask because you may recall my adventure with the OD servo snap ring a few months ago. A chunk of the snap ring breaks off and gets jammed in the OD actuating valve in the valve body. The trans shifts out of third, but doesn’t shift into 4th, so just freewheels.
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Nov 10, 2018 21:55
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That's what I was told over the phone by the shop I dropped it at. At this point, I've resolved to take it home (on Monday because I hosed up and forgot the shop closes at 4 on Saturdays) and just look at it myself. FWIW though cycling OD on and off made no difference, would not maintain speed or transmit any power above 40. Even if it's OD it should shift back to a lower gear when I gun the throttle, no? At highway speeds it was hunting but never going into any gear, whether feathering the gas or flooring it, or anywhere in between.
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Nov 10, 2018 22:11
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That doesn’t sound like the snap ring/jamming issue I had. Mine was a-ok except for OD. Turn off OD and it drove like an older 3-speed Auto. No other weirdness. Sounds like you do indeed have a different issue. Transmissions for Panthers should be cheap. They used it in almost everything V8 and RWD. 4R70W if I remember correctly. Maybe by a used one with a warranty rather than rebuilding the existing one if pressed for time. Might be cheaper, too.
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Nov 11, 2018 04:48
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As Nero Danced posted:Did you get your leather jacket? Not yet. Im sorely tempted to order one for yuks but the car needs so much at this point the jacket is pretty much last on the list. Hopefully I'll be able to get most of it taken care of in the next few weeks. I already have some of the rear end parts, the rest will hopefully get here early next week. Did splurge a little and order a double din style head unit with back up camera to bring the car into this millennium.
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Nov 11, 2018 06:23
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Anyone happen to know a good source for seats? I've got a 2011 CVPI with a split bench front, and the driver's seat has been cop-assed to death. Maybe I can get away with just pulling the covers and swapping the foam? Either way, the bolsters are so bad it's getting uncomfortable to drive and the power tilt on the backrest is nonfunctional.
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Nov 11, 2018 16:05
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So I'm about to go shower and get the car from the shop to do my own diagnosis, but I just realized something. When my breakdown happened, the speedometer was still working perfectly. Yet the code was absolutely a VSS code. Could it run the speedo but still be hosed up enough to cause shifting issues? Editing to update: on a tip from Adiabatic in the Slack channel I looked for a wiring diagram, couldn't find one, but I did find a diagnostic flowchart for shifting/throttle issues where step one for a P062c code is "inspect ABS system and wheel speed sensors for proper operation". This does several things: 1, confirms almost conclusively that this code is looking at wheel speed sensor signals, or a combined output from the ABS system, and not a discrete VSS on the transmission, if the car even has one. 2, very strongly reinforces my suspicion that yanking the ABS module like I did is probably related, and that a proper code wipe now that the shop has put it back in may be all it needs. 3, makes me think this shop doesn't really do any diagnosis at all and just shotguns the most profitable parts cannon work at it that they can. I already told the guy when he delivered the $3,000 bad news that I probably didn't have that in my budget for a car that's broken this many times in rapid succession, and he without a moment's hesitation started offering me loving store credit cards to pay for the job. I thought that was a thing at big retail store chains, not dedicated repair shops. Anyway. Actually going to shower and get car now. Bringing my laptop so I can use the fancier Ford-based scan tool software instead of Torque Lite. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Nov 12, 2018 |
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Nov 12, 2018 15:09
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Fender Anarchist posted:That's what I was told over the phone by the shop I dropped it at. At this point, I've resolved to take it home (on Monday because I hosed up and forgot the shop closes at 4 on Saturdays) and just look at it myself. We had this behavior once in an E-350 with the E4OD, speedometer flipping out and the transmission would jump out of gear and otherwise misbehave. Ended up being a corroded wire on the VSS (likely from driving it on Daytona Beach a bunch) which we only found out after having the transmission entirely replaced and having the problem come back 15 miles down the road. Not sure how applicable that is to the 4R70W, but I'd definitely be very sure the VSS is actually working properly before committing to major transmission work in any Ford.
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Nov 12, 2018 17:53
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Fender Anarchist posted:3, makes me think this shop doesn't really do any diagnosis at all and just shotguns the most profitable parts cannon work at it that they can. This is the conclusion I am ambling towards as well.
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Nov 12, 2018 18:05
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So update for the non slack crew, drove with my laptop and all speed sensors are fine, car shifts fine at all speeds but when it selects 4th gear, the gear doesn't actually lock in; engine revs and speed drops. Could a hiccuping speed signal while the abs module was out have made the clutch pack or whatever for 4th cycle super fast and wear out? It wasn't hunting or shifting weird at all during the week I had the module removed, and it was fine even 1 drive before the breakdown, just a few hours before. Seems strange that I could have a friction device go from 0 to dead in that short a time. E: at the very least, the module is back in and there are no more codes or CELs, other than for the abs which has always been lit. So the computer, at least, thinks everything is fine. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Nov 12, 2018 |
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Nov 12, 2018 19:21
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Find a different shop. Ok, you’re saying that it won’t engage 4th, but previously said that it didn’t make any difference if the OD was on or off. It should not even *try* to go into 4th with the OD button in “off.” It just acts like an old school 3-speed Auto with 1:1 top gear. I will say get someone else to do the transmission swap if you can afford it, even if you get used, because it’s a pain. Also, that trans holds like 3 gallons of $5/qt fluid. Good for the trans, hurty on the wallet. I have 2005 wiring diagrams, in dead tree edition, if that’s of any help.
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Nov 13, 2018 00:17
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Ok so, that was on Friday night with the ABS/VSS issues. Tried again just now, and yes indeed, when I disable OD it'll stay in 3rd. Is this pretty much a hard indicator that 4th is mechanically hosed? I keep holding out hope there's some electronic thing I've overlooked that'll magically fix everything. As far as wiring, Wikipedia is showing that I should have a 4R75E, don't know how much that difference that would make vs the 4R70 models.
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Nov 13, 2018 00:45
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Fender Anarchist posted:Ok so, that was on Friday night with the ABS/VSS issues. Tried again just now, and yes indeed, when I disable OD it'll stay in 3rd. THAT sounds like the issue I was talking about with the snap ring piece jamming the OD valve. Looks like it affects 2004-2008 4R70Ws and variants. https://www.f150online.com/forums/transmissions/463637-04-f150-lost-overdrive-servo-clip-broke-pics.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpX6pec_F2k https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ikk56cIHL_g Here's pics from mine: https://imgur.com/a/56O5hkw I did a right up either in my own thread, or in "what did you do to your car today."
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Nov 13, 2018 01:00
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Well, at least that presumably won't involve tearing into the gear stack like I feared, and hey, fresh fluid never hur- okay sometimes that can cause problems but it looks like I'm going in regardless. At least it's presumably not generating metal shavings to go into spinny bits. Time to set up a work day, I guess.
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Nov 13, 2018 01:27
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