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Even just those photos tell a story, nice! Better than swapping the trans.
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Nov 13, 2018 08:30
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It's a friggin' boatload of fluid. I made a heck of a mess. If I ever take that pan off again, I'm installing a drain plug.
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Nov 13, 2018 18:16
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Fender: just in case you don't see it in the chat thread:Fender Anarchist posted:Boutta go get my face all covered in hot tranny fluid!
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Nov 15, 2018 17:06
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ikk56cIHL_g Oh man this vid is gonna be a lifesaver, got links to a bunch of parts as well as torque info for the valve body.
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Nov 15, 2018 18:49
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Fender Anarchist posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ikk56cIHL_g That’s handy. I had the factory service manual, but it was surprisingly annoying to find the torque specs and tightening sequence. Edit: that’s weird, I just watched that guy’s video on the Ford EGR valve yesterday.
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Nov 15, 2018 20:02
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So I had to drive my car around today and it occurred to me, does the lockup clutch engage with overdrive disabled? Am I potentially loving up my converter by driving around like that? I got paranoid and did the rest of my driving in a very burn-and-coast style to avoid cruising, am I overthinking it?
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Nov 16, 2018 03:46
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Fender Anarchist posted:So I had to drive my car around today and it occurred to me, does the lockup clutch engage with overdrive disabled? Am I potentially loving up my converter by driving around like that? I got paranoid and did the rest of my driving in a very burn-and-coast style to avoid cruising, am I overthinking it? No, it doesn’t lock up, and no you’re not hurting anything. There’s a bit more heat generated, but on. Your cop car, it won’t be a problem. The transmission is designed to have the OD turned off when towing, for example, or going up steep grades, if I’m remembering the owners manual correctly. Should be fine. Heck, check the owners manual and see what it says. They are available online.
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Nov 16, 2018 04:00
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My car came with the original owner's manual and PI addendum, still wrapped  Even has the "IS THE SPEED WORTH YOUR LIFE?" sticker next to the speedo and the "lol don't store long guns longitudinally in the trunk or you will explode" sticker by the radio.
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Nov 16, 2018 04:04
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Alright I've googled like i should have and it does seem like it only locks up in OD, so that's good to know. I've never driven a car without lockup, it's really annoying waiting for the converter to load up when I go from coast/cruise to accelerating. E: Also I've realized that if I don't do the heater core while it's down for the transmission job I will hate myself forever. Ugh.
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Nov 16, 2018 04:28
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Lockup converters are sometimes looser when they aren't locked than a traditional converter. But yes, it's a thing.
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Nov 16, 2018 15:08
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The cooling fan stopped coming on at high temps on my 1998 Grand Marquis, so our temporary solution was to just leave the AC on all the time and thus keep the high speed fan going. Then that speed working and the car overheated for two seconds before it was shut off, allowed to cool and drove home (it only overheated a block from the house). It's been a series of cooling issues with this car that I thought were remedied when I replaced the intake manifold. Now it cranks but won't start. I checked the pigtail that connects to the fan, and one terminal has a burn mark that corresponds to a burn mark on the fan's terminal. However, the fan still works if I wire it directly to the battery. I can hear the fuel pump priming when turning the key, fuel shoots out of the schrader valve on the fuel rail, and so far 7/8 spark plugs have tested OK for spark. The COP boot for the last plug in the rear passenger side just broke off inside the plug well and I want to kill myself now. All fuses test OK. I havent tested any relays yet but they look OK, visually. I have a cheap BAFX OBD2 bluetooth scanner and, using Torque, I can connect to it but it cannot talk to the car's ECU. The OBD port has power. It worked about a year ago so I don't know if it's a torque update causing it to not work or my ECU is hosed somehow. I don't have the money to get a scanner loaned from the parts store right now. Any tips would be much appreciated.
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Nov 16, 2018 20:13
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Instead of Torque try the ford specific OBD scanner app, forget what it's called.
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Nov 16, 2018 20:36
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Forscan
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Nov 16, 2018 20:37
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Hey, can anybody recommend a good head unit for 2003+ panthers? I ordered this: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/18180....32581406ZVfCcN After seeing it on mercurymarauder.net, but the seller is being pretty sketchy and stalling on shipping it so I'm thinking about cancelling it and going with something else.
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Nov 16, 2018 21:02
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Queen Combat posted:Instead of Torque try the ford specific OBD scanner app, forget what it's called. Fender Anarchist posted:Forscan I guess next I could check the voltage and resistance of the fuel injectors to see if it's actually getting gas.
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Nov 16, 2018 23:25
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Fender Anarchist posted:Forscan I really don't know if this is a joke, or someone was so lacking in self-consciousness that they names a program "foreskin." J Corp posted:Hey, can anybody recommend a good head unit for 2003+ panthers? I ordered this: You can get a name-brand Carplay/Android Auto head unit for $400. The one you linked seems pretty feature packed, though. I am intrigued. I like the Wi-Fi dashcam add-on.
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Nov 17, 2018 00:03
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Well gently caress. Was sitting in a parking lot waiting to drive to my cousins, was parked for line a half hour. I looked up and suddenly my coolant temp was pegged and the warning light was on. Got out and the radiator fan want working, even with a/c on full blast. I panicked and VERY GENTLY drove it the mile to his place to get some airflow through. After I shut the car off, I turned the key right back on to pull Torque up and it was immediately down to mid gauge, app reported temp of 110C. Did I just gently caress my engine? Wtf.
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Nov 17, 2018 02:15
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hosed fan overheating buddies!!!! Air cooling is pretty sphincter-puckering.
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Nov 17, 2018 03:37
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Both of my fans work, even though I've had a constant "Fan 2 Clutch/temperature switch failure" soft-code since I got the car (doesn't trigger the light). I still get paranoid and check it constantly.
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Nov 17, 2018 03:50
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Well drove it 30 minutes home, temp never got above 90 and I could hear the cooling fan easily when I parked, so...  I've got a hair trigger for "minor glitches"at this point.
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Nov 17, 2018 07:05
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Fender Anarchist posted:Well drove it 30 minutes home, temp never got above 90 and I could hear the cooling fan easily when I parked, so... Shot in the dark, but do you know if you have the crummy intake manifold/gasket setup or the revised one? I was losing coolant and overheating when mine screwed up. I don't remember what years were affected, but there's a dorman intake manifold that can fit on the earlier ones (my GM is an 03 for what it's worth).
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Nov 17, 2018 08:08
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Already had to replace the intake last April, snapped off the heater supply nipple while bypassing that. Supposedly the big issues were fixed by 07 but in any case I've got a Dorman on there now. Coolant didn't look low during the brief look when it was showing hot.
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Nov 17, 2018 08:32
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Update on the cooling situation: sat in a parking lot to try and replicate. Starting from warm-ish with the a/c on, temperature got up to 98C. At this point I got out, poked the fan, it spun up for a second then stopped, then right as the temp ticked over to 100 it kicked on full blast. Turned a/c off, after a bit the temp started climbing; turning the a/c on at this point did nothing, nor did prodding. Got on the road for airflow again, temp got up to almost 120 before falling, stayed a little above normal all the way to parking. At some point during the drive my cap vented. At this point I busted out the multimeter. Unplugged the fan, no continuity, but ~10V across the module terminals. Unplugged the module and probed the harness side, continuity to ground and ~12V on both the power and signal pins (this was all with key on, engine off). Plugged the module back in, probed the fan again and now there was continuity; plugged the fan back in, started the car and it was blowing full blast, a/c off. I'm pretty sure I was making contact with the fan terminals the first time; do these have some sort of thermal cutoff in them? Could I have had a loose connection and now it's reseated? Who knows! I'll keep an eye on it for now.
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Nov 18, 2018 02:51
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I spray and pray but with deoxit not bullets. In my 08 I've occasionally got weird errors due to corrosion in random connectors. The first six months were rife with random light codes, like "PASSENGER SIDE AIRBAG SQUIB FAILURE" then having to track every underseat or dashboard connector and cleaning them. Just two weeks ago my wipers/fluid stopped working (again). Started working the moment I started to pop off the wiper motor cover (accessible without removal). The cover houses the control board but there's a pogo pin style connector inside, moving the cover scratched it a bit to start working again. Last year when the wipers stopped initially due to flooding the motor during a rainstorm (drain was clogged with .40S&W casings and dirt) I opened the motor up and reflowed the board, but never got intimate with the connector itself. Queen Combat fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Nov 18, 2018 |
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Nov 18, 2018 04:05
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Alright it seems like the fan blows nice and strong when the car first turns on, then gradually gets weaker, then eventually stops blowing completely. In my experience digital modules do not fail this way, so I've gotta be looking at a fan that's somehow marginal and dies as it heats up, right? I've already replaced the module, no change in behavior. I loving hate shotgunning parts but my google fu is coming up weak, can't find a loving circuit diagram, or even "range of coolant temps where the fan should be on". The ECU is reporting temps just fine, but is there a chance the fan runs off a different sensor that could be hosed? Editing to update: Fender Anarchist posted:Edit: I loving GOT IT. Checked on the laptop to verify the signal was getting to the fan, went out and saw the fan was off, gave it a strong flick with my flashlight.... and it spun up. With a horrific grinding noise coming from the hub. It is dead quiet when it's cold and blowing full blast. Must be something rubbing/gripping when it gets hot, that's strong enough to fully stop it at low duty cycle, and stall it even at full power once it's stopped. gently caress that feels good to finally figure out. Guess I'm getting a new fan assembly. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Nov 20, 2018 |
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Nov 20, 2018 01:05
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I love chasing wiring issues. Mine is currently that my odometer backlight works fine when it's cold outside, but as soon as the car heats up it fades out to unreadability, and if it's hot out it stays that way. Probably a lovely connection somewhere, but I'm not going digging under the dash until spring for something that doesn't effect driving.
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Nov 20, 2018 14:12
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Fender Anarchist posted:Alright it seems like the fan blows nice and strong when the car first turns on, then gradually gets weaker, then eventually stops blowing completely. In my experience digital modules do not fail this way, so I've gotta be looking at a fan that's somehow marginal and dies as it heats up, right? I've already replaced the module, no change in behavior. Yeah, that sounded like bad bearings/gummed up lube to me. Should be easy to find a good replacement in the wrecking yard. They actually don’t fail often, just test before you leave the yard.
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Nov 20, 2018 18:28
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Weird thought, is the HVAC control panel getting hot to the touch?
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Nov 20, 2018 18:52
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MonkeyNutZ posted:Weird thought, is the HVAC control panel getting hot to the touch? I've noticed in the past it was slightly warm compared to the surrounding plastics, but not like weirdly hot. To be clear, though, this is the radiator fan, not the HVAC blower. Darchangel posted:Yeah, that sounded like bad bearings/gummed up lube to me. Should be easy to find a good replacement in the wrecking yard. They actually don’t fail often, just test before you leave the yard. Already ordered a replacement off Amazon for $120. The only LKQ that shows one in stock was over on like the gulf coast. Frankly the time saved with Amazon vs junkyard hopping while actively nursing a car to keep it from overheating is worth the extra $40 vs junkyard price.
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Nov 21, 2018 05:12
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Fender Anarchist posted:Already ordered a replacement off Amazon for $120. The only LKQ that shows one in stock was over on like the gulf coast. Frankly the time saved with Amazon vs junkyard hopping while actively nursing a car to keep it from overheating is worth the extra $40 vs junkyard price. As long as it’s as good as OEM, yeah. Here, I wouldn’t even bother to look it up. Most yards aren’t online, and the Panther is so common that almost any yard is guaranteed to have one if not many. And there are two “junkyard rows” within easy distance of me, not to mention several Pick And Pulls (which I actually don’t like since they computerized and nickel and dime you for everything.) My favorite yard has a dozen Panther cars at any given time.
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Nov 21, 2018 21:48
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Well, it turns out that the PATS system was thinking that I was trying to steal the car, and it had disabled the fuel pump. I read that a '98-'02 police ECU could be swapped in, just plug and play, so I grabbed one from the junkyard. Threw it in and the car fired right up and runs smoothly. The check engine light is on and I still can't read any codes so it may just be my scanner. I'm happy regardless.
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Nov 22, 2018 20:48
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Any known issues with slow filling/gas backups on trying to fill up a towncar? This is on a nearly mint condition 2011-L I moved to Texas from California so those vapor extracting CARB gas pumps are long gone. Most of the gas pumps in my area seem to pump fuel too fast for my car at full pump speeds. I can adjust the angle and it sometimes work but filling the car up is a bit of a chore depending on gas station. I'm suspecting something with the gas tank venting system seeing there's a hose/valve kit that runs into the nozzle neck to the 12 o'clock position. Not sure how to really check/test this. I want to embrace the sub-$2.00/gallon gas prices and have full speed fillups 
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Nov 23, 2018 12:19
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Maybe a clogged up vapor canister?
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Nov 23, 2018 19:46
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As Nero Danced posted:Maybe a clogged up vapor canister? could be related but I'm getting no codes and no gas smells just sporadic problems filling up at full speed on pumps. I'll look into it.
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Nov 23, 2018 20:02
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Achtane posted:Well, it turns out that the PATS system was thinking that I was trying to steal the car, and it had disabled the fuel pump. I really enjoy that my ‘05 P71 has normal, cheap keys. Made the remote start easier, too.
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Nov 23, 2018 21:28
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Same, nothing better than a plain stamped piece of metal. Should probably make more spares for mine but  New fan is in, temp cycling seems rock stead with no loss of performance after a decent drive cycle around the neighborhood. Gonna buckle down and do the heater core over this weekend (ughhhh), tear into the transmission whenever my parts arrive, because of course they shipped snail mail for the small stuff.
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Nov 23, 2018 23:09
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I posted here a few weeks ago about needing to redo the rear end on my Marauder and figured I'd post an update. The spider gears in the differential were toast and I picked up a 31 spline carrier for about as much as new gears and clutches would have cost (stock axles on the 2003 Marauders are 28 spline). Since I was replacing everything else in the rear end anyhow, I decided to put 4.10 gears in it. From everything I read on the Marauder forums, 4.10s were a major upgrade. I saw somewhere that Mercury had originally designed the car with 4.10 gears but had switched to 3.55s near the end of development to meet CAFE standards, though I don't know how true that is. I got the rear end back into the car on Sunday and was honestly a little disappointed. The car wasn't responding as well as I had hoped, though I figured it was probably going to be acting a little strange until I got it tuned (shift points were weird) Got the tune today and HOLY HELL. The car is a completely different animal. Granted, it's cold and damp today and I have Nittos on the back, but the rear end breaks loose at even half throttle. It accelerates MUCH better and shifts so much smoother and quicker now. I got the tune from Marty at Mo's Speed Shop and although I've only driven the car around for about an hour today, I can't recommend it enough. I'm not sure if they tune other Panther platform cars, but he's highly recommended in the Marauder community and I can definitely see why. If you're thinking about getting your car tuned I would definitely reach out to him.
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Nov 29, 2018 22:30
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Does anyone know which wire on the radio harness dims the display when the lights come on? The headunit I ordered is plug and play except for whatever reason that wire is off on it's own instead of in the plug.
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Dec 5, 2018 01:44
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J Corp posted:Does anyone know which wire on the radio harness dims the display when the lights come on? The headunit I ordered is plug and play except for whatever reason that wire is off on it's own instead of in the plug. Scroll until you find your model year.
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Dec 5, 2018 15:37
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Fender Anarchist posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ikk56cIHL_g So, update on this whole saga: gently caress this wiring clip, gonna need a new one cause the retainer tabs crumbled.  ...Juuust as soon as I figure out what's actually wrong with my car, because, shocker of shockers, it's not the overdrive clip.  What now? Wait for it to quit dripping in my face and try inspecting the band through a peep hole? Throw solenoids at it blindly? I just got the valve body down so I'm taking break, maybe I'll have a double twist and there'll be some other random junk blocking a hydraulic passage when I open that up.
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Dec 18, 2018 21:42
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