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The stock can is always so ugly though.
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Oct 24, 2018 19:16
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Got it. I'll toss the stock one on again today. It's huge and hideous but hopefully I'll have something bigger soon and the wife gets this one.
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Oct 24, 2018 19:22
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 07:56 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Oct 26, 2018 06:15
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How long is it a chain should generally last? Earlier this year (Feb maybe?) I had a new chain & sprocket set fitted and I've had to constantly tighten it up from it getting slack every few weeks, cue last night when I lubed it up and tightened it to the point where I've maxed out the alignment guide and even then it could stand to be a little tighter. The only thing I can assume is the chain is mismatched to the bike? (It was a DID kit I ordered from wemoto.com which is normally pretty good)
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Oct 26, 2018 13:43
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I have changed two chains. Both had over 12k miles. Another chain went 15k miles with no need for change.
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Oct 26, 2018 19:03
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puberty worked me over posted:I can say fairly confidently it's the same lever even though the TW200, TT225, XT200, and BW200 all use different part numbers for their lever assemblies. If only there was a database of diameter and spline pitch of kick start levers I bet you could source one super cheap. You have an XT or a TW? Both my Tdubs have been kickstart so I can't help you on parts but let me know if a picture or measurement might help. $350 is a pretty insane price for that kit, considering for around that you could probably get a whole motor with kickstart, but that's only for the TW because I don't think the XT ever had kick? Have you seen this? http://www.xt225.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=137489
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Oct 26, 2018 20:24
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puberty worked me over posted:
Me too, I run into this lots with shocks/forks being put on bikes they didn't come on. I'll be interested to see what your results are in the end, do you have access to a lathe? Super Slash posted:How long is it a chain should generally last? Did you lube it regularly? That's like way, way too short a lifespan unless you just fitted it and forgot about it. What do your sprockets look like? Post profile pics of sprocket teeth, top down pics of the chain riding on the sprocket. Was it fitted with the adjusters as far forward as possible? What bike, what chain pitch (numbers on the links)?
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Oct 26, 2018 20:24
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 07:56 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Oct 26, 2018 21:50
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puberty worked me over posted:I have an XT225. Thank you for the offer on the measurements. If something goes awry that may be useful. That thread was the impetus for this project. That parts list will run you $300 shipped minimum. I'm currently at $150 shipped and that includes a clutch holding tool, new seals and o-rings, the clutch lock washer, etc. Yeah there is very little difference between the XT and TW motors. XT is a 6 speed with a shorter countershaft. In fact, one of the "hot" mods on a TW is to take a XT or TTR motor, split the cases, and install the TW shaft. I think there's also some machining involved. Then you have a TW225 with a 6 speed. There's also a guy on the forums making a countershaft "adapter" to go on the XT225 motor for an easy swap, but that sounds sketchy to me.
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Oct 26, 2018 23:16
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What's the best bike battery nowadays, price is no concern im tired of not being able to start my bike the first cold day of every year for the past 4 years. Are lithium ion's up to to snuff now? '07 aprilia tuono if it matters. Voltage fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Nov 8, 2018 |
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Nov 8, 2018 04:27
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I thought Deka was still the go-to, but I haven't bought one in a while.
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Nov 8, 2018 04:37
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Voltage posted:What's the best bike battery nowadays, price is no concern im tired of not being able to start my bike the first cold day of every year for the past 4 years. Are lithium ion's up to to snuff now? EarthX for LiFePO. I don’t know for agm.
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Nov 8, 2018 04:41
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Lamp failure warning came up on my bike today (s1000xr), when I started it after a 2hr ride. I checked all the signals, brakes, and forward lights. All's well. Not sure wtf. Any tips other than ignoring it?
pokie fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Nov 9, 2018 |
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Nov 9, 2018 00:25
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License plate light?
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Nov 9, 2018 00:31
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pun pundit posted:License plate light? Seems fine.
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Nov 9, 2018 00:32
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Leave the stock can on. Loud small thumpers sound dumb. This is unequivocally the correct answer.
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Nov 9, 2018 01:08
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My (admittedly rushed) tank paint job is starting to rub off where I grip with my knees. Is the answer "more than 2-3 light coats of clear next time"? It's a Gen1 KLR so I'm not going for concourse quality here, but did want to redo the tank, apply repro decals, and have it last reasonably long. Once the decals are on future touch-ups are probably not going to happen, so interested in getting it to be semi-lasting. puberty worked me over posted:I just wish there were junkyards for motorcycles like for cars so you could get your hands on the parts and do measurements without having to buy them. Surely there are though? We have them in Australia, though some of them have pretty ludicrous prices (one wrecker in Melbourne wanted basically as much for a KLR centrestand as it would cost to buy a new one from the US and pay for international shipping + GST).
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Nov 9, 2018 02:00
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Ethics_Gradient posted:My (admittedly rushed) tank paint job is starting to rub off where I grip with my knees. Is the answer "more than 2-3 light coats of clear next time"? my paint guy says correct curing is more important than many coats. 2-3 light coats sounds like not enough but its up to the individual clear coat in the end
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Nov 9, 2018 03:11
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pokie posted:Lamp failure warning came up on my bike today (s1000xr), when I started it after a 2hr ride. I checked all the signals, brakes, and forward lights. All's well. Not sure wtf. Any tips other than ignoring it? If it comes on right after starting it's probably the headlight. This may be stupid, but are you sure the low beam is on and you aren't just seeing the running light on that side? The high beam and turn signals only cause failure warnings after you try to use them.
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Nov 9, 2018 04:16
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Kastivich posted:If it comes on right after starting it's probably the headlight. This may be stupid, but are you sure the low beam is on and you aren't just seeing the running light on that side? Welp, it stopped coming on. May be the signal lamps' connection is a bit loose since I dropped the bike and it separated for a moment earlier? I will root around in them if this comes up again. Thanks for your suggestions!
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Nov 9, 2018 04:27
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Ethics_Gradient posted:My (admittedly rushed) tank paint job is starting to rub off where I grip with my knees. Is the answer "more than 2-3 light coats of clear next time"? Have you considered getting some applique grip pads? I'm pretty sure they come in clear as well as black if you'd like the colour to show through.
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Nov 9, 2018 10:38
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Super Slash posted:How long is it a chain should generally last? Is your shock completely clapped out?
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Nov 10, 2018 11:29
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Kastivich posted:If it comes on right after starting it's probably the headlight. This may be stupid, but are you sure the low beam is on and you aren't just seeing the running light on that side? You were totally right! Headlight is dead. Now I know what the running lights are  . They seemed bright enough in the covered parking that I didn't notice... It was fun to discover this distinction at the tail end of a 450 mile journey.
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Nov 12, 2018 04:30
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pokie posted:You were totally right! Headlight is dead. Now I know what the running lights are I did the same thing the first time. I've burned through two low beam bulbs already. When I asked the service people about it they just said it was normal due to vibrations.
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Nov 12, 2018 14:25
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Any metallurgists in here?  It looks like a simple enough bend, but I honestly have no idea what I should do to straighten it. Do I throw it in a vice and just yank on it cold? Heat up the bend? Completely detach the spade and get someone to weld a new bit of metal on there?
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Nov 12, 2018 20:15
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 what on earth did that come from?
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Nov 12, 2018 21:25
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gently caress knows. The box they shipped it in was slightly too small, and those flanges weren't adequately wrapped (and were sticking out of the box at one point). I assume it got dropped on its end off the back of a truck or something. I just realised I didn't mention, it's a givi top box rack. The bent plate is 3mm thick steel of I don't know what spec. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Nov 12, 2018 |
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Nov 12, 2018 21:37
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IANAE but seeing as it's just a cargo rack I'd just put it in the vice and straighten it cold. Do it in one motion, don't go back and forth to get it perfect and you won't work harden it enough to matter. Then hit it with some rattlecan so it won't rust where the paint cracks.
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Nov 12, 2018 22:03
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Renaissance Robot posted:gently caress knows. The box they shipped it in was slightly too small, and those flanges weren't adequately wrapped (and were sticking out of the box at one point). I assume it got dropped on its end off the back of a truck or something. Ask for a warranty replacement first!
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Nov 12, 2018 22:23
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When I bent a shift lever a guy at the shop used a torch to soften it before bending it back. It took him like 30 seconds. But I would defer to folks like Slavvy with hands-on xp.
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Nov 13, 2018 00:22
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I'll second Slavvy. That's one of 4 (?) attachment points for the rack, so even if it did suddenly snap, it won't send your case bouncing down the road. But this too: Ola posted:Ask for a warranty replacement first!
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Nov 13, 2018 01:12
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Ola posted:Ask for a warranty replacement first! I already did, this is the last one anywhere! I'll give it a go in the vice tomorrow night probably.
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Nov 13, 2018 01:18
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Renaissance Robot posted:I already did, this is the last one anywhere! take lots of pictures of the bend and the packaging from all angles first so you have proof it was damaged before you fix it. Make the seller file a shipping insurance claim, thats what its for.
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Nov 13, 2018 01:57
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How does a rev limiter work?
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Nov 17, 2018 01:34
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It's an electronic feature where the ECU (or CDI box on older bikes) stops firing the spark plugs when you hit a certain RPM. Engines without electronic ignition generally don't have rev limiters, although there are mechanical (usually hydraulic or centrifugal) systems that approximate that behavior. The spinning ball thing on top of a steam engine is called a "governor" and it serves a similar purpose, for instance.
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Nov 17, 2018 02:07
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Are the injectors interrupted too? Or is that why engines grenade when you bang them off the limiter for too long?
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Nov 17, 2018 02:21
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To add to the above: Cdi's and older efi bikes have a simple spark limiter that just cuts off the ignition coils. Hitting the limiter sounds the same as a car, as in ringdingdingding until you change up/close the gas; the sound is the engine rapidly dolphin-diving over and under the limit rpm. Modern fancy bikes often have 'soft' limiters that operate on a strategy. So let's say your maximum engine speed (the speed the engine is physically unable to survive, horsepower notwithstanding) is 10,000rpm, you might have a soft limit that comes in at 9,000 by retarding the timing and reducing power, usually in conjunction with flashing a shift light. Hitting it feels like the engine just doesn't want to pull anymore. This works great if you're actually riding the bike and it's gradually (by ECU standards) climbing up the revs, but doesn't work if you decide to whack the throttle open in neutral or something, so you'll still have an old style hard limiter at say 9600 as a backup. As to why they grenade: a variety of factors but usually because you're putting in too much heat but not taking it out because you're standing still with your stunta krew instead of moving at 100mph like the designers intended. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Nov 17, 2018 |
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Nov 17, 2018 02:31
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Are the injectors interrupted too? Or is that why engines grenade when you bang them off the limiter for too long? As Slavvy notes, some modern engines have fuel-cut as well. Not all do and it's obviously impossible to do that on a carbureted engine. If you're running the engine at full throttle but with the ignition going in and out, you're going to be dumping some unburnt fuel out the exhaust and you'll probably get a lot of popping and afterfiring. It may be over-rich for a few seconds afterwards and run poorly. It shouldn't cause any engine damage beyond whatever happens from running the bike at its maximum rated engine speed -- maybe you'll blow out your muffler cores but that's not a huge deal. Heat is a big problem (more combustion events per second, increased frictional heating), but so are more esoteric factors like the increased centrifugal forces on any rotating assembly, which increases the changes of e.g. your crankshaft blowing itself to pieces, or the connecting rods elongating (and potentially breaking) from the forces. It's a distance measured in thousandths of an inch, but if your engine is built to close tolerances that might be enough to run the pistons into the valves or the like. Basically try not to operate at the redline for any length of time. It's fine to hit it with some regularity, just don't stay there. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Nov 17, 2018 |
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Nov 17, 2018 02:48
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Renaissance Robot posted:I just realised I didn't mention, it's a givi top box rack. The bent plate is 3mm thick steel of I don't know what spec. Ok. The reason for my is I thought it was the worlds crappiest swingarm at first.
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Nov 17, 2018 15:08
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Now you mention it I think I recall somebody did try to design a kitbike made entirely of stamped/laser cut metal plates. The aesthetic was all circles, it looked like poo poo.
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Nov 17, 2018 18:04
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