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Max Wilco posted:I remember one video I found where they said to use micro set and micro sol. You've got it right, micro sol and micro set are what you want.
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Nov 17, 2018 07:10
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Finished the Lord of Plagues this week. First time I've been actually pleased with OSL.   
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Nov 17, 2018 10:45
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:You've got it right, micro sol and micro set are what you want. Well, sort of. Microset and microsol are key to getting really nice smooth transfers, but so are 'ardcoat (gloss varnish) and lahmian (sort of like matte medium). Duncan is actually skipping important parts of doing decals well because gw doesn't make the right product. Step 1 is to gloss varnish the surface you're putting the decal on Step 2 is to dampen the surface you'll be applying the decal to with microset Step 3 is to soak the decal in water until the decal starts to separate from the paper, then slide it onto the dampened surface Step 4 is to carefully wick moisture away from the surface that you've positioned the transfer on Step 5 is to wait for it to fully dry, then coat the transfer in microsol. Use your brush to try to work out any wrinkles in the decal due to being on a curved surface. Repeat until the decal is completely smooth Step 6 is to coat gloss varnish over the transfer again Step 7 is matte varnish to get rid of the shine from the gloss. You can do it without the gloss and matte, but you're more likely to still be able to see the clear edges of the decal. Following that process ends up in decals that look completely painted on.
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Nov 17, 2018 15:56
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Booley posted:Well, sort of. Microset and microsol are key to getting really nice smooth transfers, but so are 'ardcoat (gloss varnish) and lahmian (sort of like matte medium). Duncan is actually skipping important parts of doing decals well because gw doesn't make the right product. Yikes, that's a lot of steps. Another question, this time in regards to tools: I'm thinking that I should replace the clippers I have. They were a cheap pair that I got from WalMart, and I believe they were actually meant for jewelry, but they're getting dull. What would be a good pair to get? I'll say that I've been looking at a model building kit on Amazon that comes with a bunch of tools including some hand files, (which I just bought a set of today  ), tweezers, a hobby knife, and flush cutters. However, I don't know if they're good quality or not, as they look pretty similar to the ones I have. I know Citadel sells a fancy-looking set of cutters, but I imagine those are probably overpriced.
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Nov 18, 2018 03:46
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Max Wilco posted:Yikes, that's a lot of steps. https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-2175ET-Professional-Sprue-Cutter/dp/B001TMZ7QA These are about as good at it gets unless you want to be a stupid gunpla weeb and spend $60 on ones from japan that are probably 5% better.
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Nov 18, 2018 04:12
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The Citadel cutters aren't bad. I got a set picking up the AOS: Paint & Tools set which is a pretty decent deal for 13 full pots of paints. It also comes with their mold line scraper, albeit without a full length handle which I corrected with some thermoplastic.
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Nov 18, 2018 05:50
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Booley posted:https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-2175ET-Professional-Sprue-Cutter/dp/B001TMZ7QA Those look good, and they seem to have a pretty slender blade (I sometime have issues trying to clip things close to the edge of the sprue). Thanks. On the subject of files, I saw these Army Painter files in the related products. The files I bought today were these Husky files. and I noticed the Army Painter files have a different texture. Does it make a big difference? I also got the Rustoleum 2x, and while I only tested it on one mini, it seems like it'll work well. There was a bit of a speckled look on it, but I don't know if it was because I didn't spray it enough, or because of the range/humidity (it was around 50% or so when I did it) Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Nov 18, 2018 |
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Nov 18, 2018 05:58
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I'd definitely recommend spending a bit more for something like these DSPIAE/Meng Nippers. I used the Xurons for years, and they're fine, but I stepped up to the DSPIAE/Meng nippers recently and they're just worlds better. They cut things amazingly smoothly, and leave almost zero cutting damage or sprue nubs on your parts. Save so much time by reducing the need to clean up sprue nubs.
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Nov 18, 2018 06:58
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Lupercalcalcal posted:Finished the Lord of Plagues this week. First time I've been actually pleased with OSL. Gross, in a good way
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Nov 18, 2018 09:32
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Cerastus Knight Castigator “Idaeus’ Vengeance” of House Konor, sworn to the Ultramarines 4th Company:     
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Nov 18, 2018 16:00
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Hey, I found a style of painting I'd love to do, but my suspicion is that the answer to how to do it is "go buy an airbrush." Am I right?
Ohthehugemanatee fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Nov 18, 2018 |
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Nov 18, 2018 16:19
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Ohthehugemanatee posted:Hey, I found a style of painting I'd love to do, but my suspicion is that the answer to how to do it is "go buy an airbrush." Am I right? Yes, that would need an airbrush
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Nov 18, 2018 16:22
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Depending on what you're actually painting on alternatively you could just set up the light/dark variation with some spray primer. Use a stencil from a piece of cardboard with some holes cut in it and adjust the separation from the model to tune the feathering. Then just go over with it a glaze of your desired color.
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Nov 18, 2018 17:47
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Max Wilco posted:Yikes, that's a lot of steps. Honestly you can skip some of those steps and still get away with it. I skip the initial gloss portion and only do it afterwards:  Still need micro sol and set, for the curved surface. You should do gloss and matte varnish afterwards anyway
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Nov 18, 2018 18:15
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For what it's worth, I've had good luck using plain old white vinegar for applying transfers. I think it has something to do with the acidic content in vinegar that makes it work so well. Basically:
2. Apply a bit of vinegar to the surface you plan to apply the transfer. 3. Put transfer on a wet surface, like a sponge or damp paper towel. Wait 30 seconds to a full minute, then using tweezers and a brush, gently slide the transfer off and onto the surface you want. 4. Apply vinegar again. At this point, you can slide the transfer around and adjust as needed. 5. Wait about 5 minutes, then gently dab away any leftover vinegar. Let it sit for a couple of hours, preferably overnight. 6. Add matte varnish to seal the deal. It basically follows the same steps as Booley, only you're using a common household item you can pick up at most dollar stores. Microsol/set is really good, and for some transfer jobs it's going to work better than mine, but if you're doing mostly flat/slightly curved surfaces then vinegar will do the job just fine. The nuclear option for transfers is of course, Solvaset, but that stuff smells like 
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Nov 18, 2018 18:51
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Anyone have suggestions for pre-made bases that would match / pair well enough with the Warhammer: Underworlds Stormcast models?  
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Nov 18, 2018 18:54
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I'd almost say the GW Shattered Dominion bases. https://www.games-workshop.com/en-SE/Shattered-Dominion-40mm-65mm-Round-Bases At least thematically they might fit.
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Nov 18, 2018 19:05
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Slimnoid posted:For what it's worth, I've had good luck using plain old white vinegar for applying transfers. I think it has something to do with the acidic content in vinegar that makes it work so well. microsol and microset are really cheap and last forever since you don't use much of them. And I think max wilco is doing transfers onto marine shoulders, which is a pretty tough shape depending on which transfers you're using.
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Nov 18, 2018 19:27
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Cooked Auto posted:I'd almost say the GW Shattered Dominion bases. Don't LOVE them, but yea they could work. It's just such a pain digging through dozens and dozens of custom base pages on various online stores.
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Nov 18, 2018 19:31
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Sab669 posted:Don't LOVE them, but yea they could work. It's just such a pain digging through dozens and dozens of custom base pages on various online stores. Yeah I hear ya, used to have a couple of bookmarks of base retailers but must've removed them at some point.
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Nov 18, 2018 19:34
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Coming soon, Citadel branded boxes to put your paints in - https://www.warhammer-community.com/2018/11/18/coming-next-week-project-boxes-tiny-titans-and-heroes-of-middle-earth/
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Nov 18, 2018 19:54
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Booley posted:Yes, that would need an airbrush That's what I was afraid of, thanks. darnon posted:Depending on what you're actually painting on alternatively you could just set up the light/dark variation with some spray primer. Use a stencil from a piece of cardboard with some holes cut in it and adjust the separation from the model to tune the feathering. Then just go over with it a glaze of your desired color. That's a nuts enough idea that I thought I'd give it a try. It's interesting. It certainly could work - when I tried it I ended up having a hell of a time aiming anything but with the right distances and a good sized hole I managed to get an effect that looks like what I'd guess a very clumsy airbrush could produce. I'll give it a try once I have a good model for it.
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Nov 18, 2018 21:33
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Sab669 posted:Don't LOVE them, but yea they could work. It's just such a pain digging through dozens and dozens of custom base pages on various online stores. DragonForge Ancient Ruins seem reasonable: http://dragonforge.com/Painting%20service/for%20sale/base_sets/sci-fi/ancient%20ruins.htm
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Nov 18, 2018 23:02
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bonds0097 posted:DragonForge Ancient Ruins seem reasonable: http://dragonforge.com/Painting%20service/for%20sale/base_sets/sci-fi/ancient%20ruins.htm Ohhh, I think I'll go with these. Cool. Thanks man.
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Nov 19, 2018 00:05
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I've assembled and primed some of the Chaos Warriors. I might have these ready to paint by the end of the year, assuming I don't get burned out.       Obviously there's speckling, and I don't know if that's because I was too close/far away, the humidity, or if I need to do two coats or something. Hopefully I didn't mess them up. I'm assuming it'd be fine to paint them as is.
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Nov 19, 2018 00:58
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Max Wilco posted:or if I need to do two coats or something
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Nov 19, 2018 01:56
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Finished off my first unit of Acolyte Hybrids and Iconward! Super pleased with the bases... and the cultists too.  
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Nov 19, 2018 05:47
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Cross posting from the AoS thread. These guys were a "test run" before I start the rest of my Stormcast.Sab669 posted:Got my Stormsire's Cursebreakers to a point where I'm content to call them finished yesterday: I also need to figure out what to do with the cloaks because it's such a large surface that only one color is WAY too much. Things I've considered: * Second wash, second set of highlights because the highlights on there currently aren't extremely visible * Do a separate color for either the cloak around the waist, or for the little tabard hanging down from the chest armor. I've considered either a dark brown, like the leather straps on the leader's front, or a much lighter color almost like white but I can't decide. Thoughts?
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Nov 19, 2018 15:04
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With the help of some people in the Historicals thread (thanks to Long, Ilor and Class), I have a box of Warlord Plastic US Airborne and all the things I think I need to paint. Here's what I got, and I'm appreciate a heads up if I missed something big:
Does this seem like everything I need to get going? It's in the 40's here in PA, so I'm a bit worried that I can't actually get priming -- should it be manageable, or do I need to go find myself some paint-on primer? Edit: Added wet palette JerikTelorian fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Nov 19, 2018 |
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Nov 19, 2018 15:19
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JerikTelorian posted:With the help of some people in the Historicals thread (thanks to Long, Ilor and Class), I have a box of Warlord Plastic US Airborne and all the things I think I need to paint. You'll probably need some kind of varnish if you plan on playing with them/handling them a lot. Sab669 posted:I also need to figure out what to do with the cloaks because it's such a large surface that only one color is WAY too much. Things I've considered:
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Nov 19, 2018 15:38
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Electric Hobo posted:They're already colorful, so adding more colors could bring them into clown territory. I'd go for deeper shadows and more highlights. I was going to say focus on deeper shadows too, the highlights look good but there isn't much of a gradient going into the folds and whatnot.
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Nov 19, 2018 15:58
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JerikTelorian posted:With the help of some people in the Historicals thread (thanks to Long, Ilor and Class), I have a box of Warlord Plastic US Airborne and all the things I think I need to paint. You need a palette. I recommend a wet palette (which can be made from $3 worth of stuff you may already have, see the OP) but you could also use a traditional well palette, or a ceramic tile.
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Nov 19, 2018 16:28
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The Moon Monster posted:You need a palette. I recommend a wet palette (which can be made from $3 worth of stuff you may already have, see the OP) but you could also use a traditional well palette, or a ceramic tile. Ah, I actually bought the parts for this! Thanks for reminding me.
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Nov 19, 2018 16:35
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JerikTelorian posted:Does this seem like everything I need to get going? One other thing to consider - how are you planning to do your bases? JerikTelorian posted:It's in the 40's here in PA, so I'm a bit worried that I can't actually get priming -- should it be manageable, or do I need to go find myself some paint-on primer?
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Nov 19, 2018 16:39
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Ilor posted:As mentioned, you'll probably want some kind of matte sealer when you're all finished. I think Michael's carries Windsor & Newton matte sealer (in a rattle can) that works pretty well. But if you have a local model/hobby shop (the kind that sells automotive and airplane models), they will almost certainly carry Testors Dull-Cote, which is the gold standard in matte finishes. I have given pretty much no consideration to basing yet. I was thinking of mounting them to the provided bases with PVA just to hold them steady for painting, and that way I can yank em off if I want to do something else with them later?
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Nov 19, 2018 21:38
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Yeah, that'll totally work as a temporary solution.
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Nov 19, 2018 23:48
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Painted up the Lady Stormcast from the Easy to Build kit. She's a great characterful model.  
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Nov 20, 2018 12:08
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That whole thing is great, but I especially love the colors on that cape, dude
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Nov 20, 2018 13:31
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Sab669 posted:That whole thing is great, but I especially love the colors on that cape, dude Thanks, the cape is Xereus, then blended with Screamer Pink and Fulgrim Pink, a bit of Leviathan Purple in the recesses while the paint's wet. Final highlight of a really thin Fuglrim Pink again.
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Nov 20, 2018 14:10
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Xuron talk: Is there any way to sharpen the blades up a bit? Mine seem to dull really quickly just cutting sprue.Bloody Hedgehog posted:I'd definitely recommend spending a bit more for something like these DSPIAE/Meng Nippers.
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Nov 20, 2018 15:51
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