|
Okay, expansion fitting it is then. Do they make schedule 80 ones? The one's at lowes are sch 40 and I'm curious about 352.10(F)/352.12(C)
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2018 21:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 23:25 |
|
|
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think they make exclusive sch 80 fittings for electrical conduit. The expansion joints listed here at Home Depot say they are for both though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2018 00:20
|
|
|
I've never put one in or had issues with not having one, at least when going from direct-bury to (properly glued and strapped) sch 80 pvc for the above ground. I live in the upper great plains, and it gets for real cold. edit: never had issues w/ all pvc runs either, but I don't do that much. edit: now that is think about it, I have used one on a 1" run up a pole, but I've never had issues with anything bigger, even when run up a pole. Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Nov 13, 2018 |
|
#
?
Nov 13, 2018 02:09
|
|
|
I installed a new light fixture in my workshop today, and I only cut my hands three times on the sheet metal boxes.  (But seriously, is there some kind of glove or something that protects against sheet metal edges while still leaving you enough dexterity to thread wires into wire nuts, handle screws, and so on?)
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2018 21:18
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I installed a new light fixture in my workshop today, and I only cut my hands three times on the sheet metal boxes. I've been pretty happy with the dexterity of chain mail gloves intended for kitchen use, though they may be light on grip.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2018 21:49
|
|
|
KnifeWrench posted:I've been pretty happy with the dexterity of chain mail gloves intended for kitchen use, though they may be light on grip. Yeah, people should own these regardless imo.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2018 21:53
|
|
|
Oh, and double check their conductivity. You might need to get some extra large latex or nitrile gloves to go over them, just to be safe.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2018 22:25
|
|
|
Latex/nitrile gloves are going to last about two seconds doing any kind of construction around sharp edges. You'd have to be so careful with them you might as well just be careful and not wear gloves at all.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2018 22:31
|
|
|
KnifeWrench posted:Oh, and double check their conductivity. You might need to get some extra large latex or nitrile gloves to go over them, just to be safe. Or just turn off the electricity. And then verify 0v across the wires.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2018 23:07
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Or just turn off the electricity. And then verify 0v across the wires. Yeah, that's true. I guess I just was irrationally worried about brushing up against something that you forgot to check.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2018 23:19
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I installed a new light fixture in my workshop today, and I only cut my hands three times on the sheet metal boxes. When I was a professional electrician, I just used leather work gloves and gave up on fine dexterity. You can do an awful lot with those thick gloves on if you pay attention and have hundreds of hours of practice. Now I just recommend the rubber-coated kevlar gloves. I think I have a couple pairs of the xtra-thin ones from ULINE that have served me great for years.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2018 23:31
|
|
|
This is one big reason why I appreciate being able to practice this stuff off of a subpanel. I can just cut power to the entire workshop over at my main panel if necessary, and then there's no way short of a lightning strike that anything will be energized anywhere remotely close to where I'm working. Thanks for the glove recommendations, folks.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2018 23:32
|
|
|
I find well-fitting (tight is key) mechanic's gloves, like the Harbor Freight black Hardy ones, to work pretty well. Really tiny screws are somewhat fiddly, but you can get better with them if you use them all the time. Obviously, those gloves won't stop a really sharp edge, but it at least gives you one layer prior to flesh.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2018 01:13
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Or just turn off the electricity. And then verify 0v across the wires. https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1...+voltage+tester I don't work without one anymore.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2018 02:44
|
|
|
Motronic posted:https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1...+voltage+tester Same, I would never work without one. My boss constantly drills into everyone's heads, never trust anyone who tells you the power's off. Don't trust yourself because you turned the breaker off earlier, don't trust your buddy who says it's dead, test test test test.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2018 03:07
|
|
|
If you're working with boxes that aren't installed yet it pays to keep a file around to break all the edges before you get started.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2018 05:18
|
|
|
Motronic posted:https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1...+voltage+tester I have this one that might kill me but probably won't: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-70-AC-250-AC-Voltage-Tester-Continuity-Tester-MS8904/206177753 So far it hasn't failed to alarm. It has an easy test to make sure the buzzer still works which I do every time I turn it on, and again to verify a negative finding. (Or go to a known-positive if it's in arms reach.)
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2018 05:34
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:I have this one that might kill me but probably won't: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-70-AC-250-AC-Voltage-Tester-Continuity-Tester-MS8904/206177753 So far it hasn't failed to alarm. It has an easy test to make sure the buzzer still works which I do every time I turn it on, and again to verify a negative finding. (Or go to a known-positive if it's in arms reach.) I don't know how that one works, but what I really like about the Fluke (other than being the cheapest possible thing you can buy with that logo on it) is that it beeps when you turn it on, flashes occasionally when on and beeps A LOT when it is automatically shutting itself off so there is no question about it being shut down. It's just a generally well thought out safety system, and I've become accustomed to it so I know what's up without thinking about it. It just ends up clipped to my shirt or a pocket whenever the magic pixie wrangling bag comes out.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2018 05:47
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I installed a new light fixture in my workshop today, and I only cut my hands three times on the sheet metal boxes. Mechanix high dexterity gloves. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2018 14:38
|
|
|
 I'm trying to figure out what the gently caress is going on with my system. I'm trying to use my heater for the first time since I installed a new thermostat and it seems to just be turning the AC on. I think my heater is either just ancient and I shouldn't have upgraded or I have it wired incorrectly. On my old thermostat it was wired exactly like this, but I'm realizing now the W/aux connection should have a white wire, and I do not know what the hell the brown wire is because I can't find any wiring diagrams with a brown wire. I have a suspicion it should go into the O or B terminals but not sure. I believe the heater is a water boiler but also not sure on that. I live in a condo and the only things I can physically see are the AC unit outside, the blower fan where I install the air filters, and my water boiler. Any help or guidance would be tremendous. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2018 19:06
|
|
|
Often the color of the wires wont match what you see in the diagrams, just label them and wire it up as it has been. If you're very concerned you can open up the unit and compare the wires on the other end. When I installed the ecobee in my old house I had to adjust the wiring on the unit end, it was all pretty straightforward.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2018 20:22
|
|
|
Bleh Maestro posted:
This may be a dumb question, but you have switched the thermostat over from AC to Heat, right?
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2018 22:12
|
|
|
SpartanIvy posted:This may be a dumb question, but you have switched the thermostat over from AC to Heat, right? I probably should have said that because I'm sure I sound clueless, but yes I have.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2018 00:19
|
|
|
Bleh Maestro posted:I probably should have said that because I'm sure I sound clueless, but yes I have. If you have the old thermostat, could you try hooking it back up to verify the heater works still? Also, make sure you cut the power when you swap wires around. If the two wrong wires touch it can blow a fuse, or even break your HVAC transformer. I did this in an apartment once when I was installing my own thermostat.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2018 01:26
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I don't know how that one works, but what I really like about the Fluke (other than being the cheapest possible thing you can buy with that logo on it) is that it beeps when you turn it on, flashes occasionally when on and beeps A LOT when it is automatically shutting itself off so there is no question about it being shut down. It's just a generally well thought out safety system, and I've become accustomed to it so I know what's up without thinking about it. It just ends up clipped to my shirt or a pocket whenever the magic pixie wrangling bag comes out. I have this one and like it very much, although I will say that this specific feature gave me a few sudden panics while I was working in a junction box and suddenly heard the "SOMETHING IS HOT!" beep before I got used to it. Like you said, it's good when you become accustomed to it (or just remember to turn it off manually when you are done testing).
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2018 15:10
|
|
|
So I've been having weird electrical issues in my house the past few days, lights randomly dimming, at the same time tvs will turn off, heat will turn off, etc. Everything comes back on after a few seconds. It seems to vary in how much the power throttles (even when the house goes dark the nightlight will stay on). Electricians came out and checked some stuff with the breaker box for loose wires and went outside to look at the main (or whatever you call all the wiring where the meter is) and said call the electric company, apparently my A phase is reading ~129 volts and B phase is reading ~117 volts. So of course I called BGE and reported it on Wednesday and was told that someone would be out that day to check it. Of course, that didn't happen and today is a holiday so I guess I'm making another call tomorrow. I understand the very basics about 3 phase electricity but not enough to understand what might cause such a thing. I've unplugged everything I don't want blown up and the electricians told me it was a slim chance that my house would burn down but I pulled out the fire extinguisher anyway. Anyone have any idea what could cause that just so I can maybe understand the problem? Don't worry, I'm not dumb enough to try to fix it myself.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2018 04:00
|
|
|
You most likely have a poor neutral connection. When you call your utility, tell them specifically that your electrician said you have a bad neutral on your electric service, and that you're afraid it will damage your electronics. I can't find a good image to demonstrate it for you - but that's what it is. On a regular split phase service (120/240), a high resistance or open connection on the neutral will result in a voltage drop on the leg that a 120v load is applied, and a rise in voltage on the unloaded leg. It can happen on an abnormally long service*, but it's usually a bad connection or conductor. I found this about a month ago with a service that was about 600' with #4 wire !!!!! from the transformer
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2018 04:20
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:I found this about a month ago with a service that was about 600' with #4 wire !!!!! from the transformer 
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2018 04:48
|
|
|
sharknado slashfic posted:So I've been having weird electrical issues in my house the past few days My parents just had this occur after ice storm that hit Indiana and Ohio a week ago. They called the electric company who showed up within the hour and discovered thier neutral had been pulled loose from the transformer. Luckily the only thing damaged was a surge strip that blew up.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2018 04:55
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:You most likely have a poor neutral connection. When you call your utility, tell them specifically that your electrician said you have a bad neutral on your electric service, and that you're afraid it will damage your electronics. Awesome, thanks. That's what I suspected from googling but I couldn't find anything specific enough to nail it down to the neutral with my limited understanding of it. e: I fried one cable box before I knew enough to be concerned
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2018 04:55
|
|
|
Before they fix it, go around with a voltmeter and take the opportunity to record whch outlets are connected to which phase. I had a similar situation when one of the legs corroded almost all the way off the transformer and I thought my power was out for a few hours until I noticed the one lone incandescent bulb still in my house glowing faintly after I shut all the ceiling fans off, and then realized the microwave clock was still on and the microwave was fine. Turns out everything in the house except one kitchen outlet was on the bad side of the transformer and I was only getting 36VAC.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2018 19:45
|
|
|
shame on an IGA posted:Before they fix it, go around with a voltmeter and take the opportunity to record whch outlets are connected to which phase. I had a similar situation when one of the legs corroded almost all the way off the transformer and I thought my power was out for a few hours until I noticed the one lone incandescent bulb still in my house glowing faintly after I shut all the ceiling fans off, and then realized the microwave clock was still on and the microwave was fine. Turns out everything in the house except one kitchen outlet was on the bad side of the transformer and I was only getting 36VAC. Much easier and safer to do this after they fix it. Before turning the main back on, turn all the breakers off, then turn them on one at a time and map what goes to where. In fact, I recommend everyone have a circuit map for their house.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2018 00:06
|
|
|
I needed to make room in a panel for a 240v breaker. So, I combined two lightly loaded 15 amp breakers by removing one and pigtailing it to the other within the junction box. My understanding is this is largely allowed by code, correct? Aside from nuisance tripping, anything I should be concerned about?
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2018 03:08
|
|
|
I have no idea about your question, but why not set up a tandem breaker instead and keep the two circuits separate?
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2018 03:13
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:I needed to make room in a panel for a 240v breaker. So, I combined two lightly loaded 15 amp breakers by removing one and pigtailing it to the other within the junction box. My understanding is this is largely allowed by code, correct? Aside from nuisance tripping, anything I should be concerned about? Isn't there a tandem single pole breaker available for your box? With very few exceptions you should be able to find one for your panel.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2018 03:13
|
|
|
Well hell, I was not aware such a device existed. That would probably have been smarter. Until I can replace it however, anyone have any thoughts as to the pigtailing solution currently in place?
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2018 03:18
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:Well hell, I was not aware such a device existed. That would probably have been smarter. Until I can replace it however, anyone have any thoughts as to the pigtailing solution currently in place? If it was done inside the panel and properly (correctly sized run off the pigtail, properly sized wire nut or wago) it at worst used to meet code in my area as recently as I've not been a code inspector (5 or so years). In almost all cases a panel can be treated as a box. And you'd be able to tie those together in that fashion in any other properly installed box, specifically for that purpose, in a switch or outlet box, etc.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2018 04:08
|
|
|
Motronic posted:If it was done inside the panel and properly (correctly sized run off the pigtail, properly sized wire nut or wago) it at worst used to meet code in my area as recently as I've not been a code inspector (5 or so years).
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2018 04:14
|
|
|
Motronic posted:If it was done inside the panel and properly (correctly sized run off the pigtail, properly sized wire nut or wago) it at worst used to meet code in my area as recently as I've not been a code inspector (5 or so years). My boss doesn't like wire nuts in panels but I've seen inspectors not care as recently as a couple months ago (in California) so I think it's still okay. He's a bit of a perfectionist. Mimesweeper fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Nov 25, 2018 |
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2018 04:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 23:25 |
|
|
Mimesweeper posted:My boss doesn't like wire nuts in panels but I've seen inspectors not care as recently as a couple months ago (in California) so I think it's still okay. He's right. I don't like to see them in there either. And if I saw them in new work I'd be all over everything, because it indicates sloppiness and poor planning. As you know, code is not something to aspire to. It's just a bare minimum.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2018 05:03
|
|