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Can anyone with a Nikon FM/FM2, FA or FE/FE2 tell me if their shutter blades bow out like this when winding on? (The two curtains are much closer together in the area obscured by shadow, on the left side of the film gate.) I don't think any appreciable light is getting through between the curtains, because I can't see any when I blast a high-power LED into the mirror box and observe from the other side while winding. However, I starting looking closer at the shutter when I noticed that my last roll of PANF+ came back with a lot (but not all) of the negatives with a clear sky showed a band of 1/2 or 1/3 stop underexposure at the top. Can't see it in the rebate, but the emulsion is pretty thin so hard to say for sure. If the band really is constrained by the frame and not just a development fluke, I wonder if the bowed curtain has anything to do with it..
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Oct 30, 2018 05:17
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Betting on development Are you using a Patterson tank? Did you make sure to load the empty spool on top of the full one and to use enough fluid? Could always high speed camera the shutter (iPhone 240 FPS should do it) to make sure it’s opening all the way but I doubt that’s he problem
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Oct 30, 2018 05:23
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The upper blade of the rear curtain looks exactly like that on my FE2 while winding on.
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Oct 30, 2018 05:28
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Digitised some of my first roll of neggies using a Nikon ES-2 digitiser-adapter, Nikon 60mm macro lens and Sony A7RII. I'm super pleased with the results, extremely sharp 'scans'. I was using a bright LED bicycle light as the light source which caused some issues with uneven illumination across the frame, so I'll work on getting a more even light source. Shot on Fomapan 400 and developed in Rodinal because I wanted a grainy high-contrast look and that's exactly what I got. DSC01315 by Andrew Burns, on Flickr  DSC01317 by Andrew Burns, on Flickr
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Oct 31, 2018 08:59
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Got at least one usable anaglyph out of the stereo realist on the first test roll. Gotta have glasses for this one, but the binocular slide viewer works fairly well too. Apologies to the color-blind.
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Nov 1, 2018 23:48
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Hey guys, quick dirt question: I know how to change the colour temperature on my digital camera to balance the base layer when digitizing colour film (as explained in the infamous and old youtube video). But what about black and white? I'm rescaning all my film (HD crash, eh) and I'm thinking if I should do the same (set colour balance to make the base as invisible as possible) or if it doesn't really matter with black and white?
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Nov 4, 2018 22:00
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Primo Itch posted:Hey guys, quick dirt question: Well the base is grey, so there's no color balancing needed, but setting the black and white point with the levels tool can get the tones spread across the histogram (kind of like that video, but only one channel). Then you do curves or whatever to add in some contrast if you like.
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Nov 4, 2018 23:06
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eggsovereasy posted:Well the base is grey, so there's no color balancing needed, but setting the black and white point with the levels tool can get the tones spread across the histogram (kind of like that video, but only one channel). Then you do curves or whatever to add in some contrast if you like. Thank you. I was just thinking if I was maybe losing a little bit of information by not "cancelling" the base layer, but yeah, I don't think that makes much sense in the end...
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Nov 4, 2018 23:46
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Nov 6, 2018 06:26
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 poo poo I'm really digging shooting film 
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Nov 13, 2018 19:55
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Pooper Trooper posted:
 
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Nov 14, 2018 05:51
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Alright, I have a question. The photos I've been taking all have this sort of yellowish muddy hue to them, coming straight from the dev lab. I don't mind it that much, it feels pretty ~authentic~ but eventually I'll want to move on from the generic vintage feel I suppose, and try to take better photos. Am I doing something wrong or is it due to the film I use (Kodak Color Plus 200)? Does it have to do with the development process? I've bought a roll of Fuji Pro 400H to see how it compares, but I won't get to try it for a few days until I finish the roll that's currently loaded in my camera. Here's some sample photos, unedited, indoors and outdoors so you can see what I mean about the colours.    
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Nov 14, 2018 09:14
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it has to do with your lab doing all of the color and scanning for you
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Nov 15, 2018 22:22
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removed.
Revolucion fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Nov 29, 2020 |
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Nov 16, 2018 06:01
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Just some dude from NASA: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/roundshot-panoramic-enlarger-with-photos.108016/ 'Strip' enlargers are a thing but inherently require some mechanization: https://people.rit.edu/andpph/text-strip-enlarger.html
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Nov 16, 2018 07:11
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ansel autisms posted:it has to do with your lab doing all of the color and scanning for you I was afraid that would be the case. Oh well, time to learn a new skill I guess 
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Nov 16, 2018 07:40
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Random question for all you film shooters, has anyone noticed upcoming black friday film sales this year? Was there anything last year beyond typical x% off store coupons that you could apply to whatever (ie. film)? I'm guessing it would have to be expired for any real savings either way, but hey you never know.
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Nov 17, 2018 02:43
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I don't think I've ever seen film on sale anywhere that wasn't short dated.
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Nov 17, 2018 04:27
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*develops slide film* Holy shitballs Two more rolls to develop and we'll see how it holds up to scanning. The new ektachrome curls weirdly while drying but hopefully it flattens out.
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Nov 18, 2018 02:05
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Very different negatives after I fixed my shutter speeds (all speeds were 1.5 to 2x faster than they were supposed to be). Shot on Kosmo Foto Mono (rebadged Fomapan 100), developed in rodinal. DSC01379 by Andrew Burns, on Flickr  DSC01358 by Andrew Burns, on Flickr
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Nov 20, 2018 10:02
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Hi, guys. I'm starting to get into film after cutting my teeth on digital, and I've got a basic availability question: My family and I will be going to the UK from the US for Christmas, and I'd like to take my film camera with me, but the whole exposing undeveloped stock to x-rays issue has me a bit worried. To mitigate that, I might just purchase some film while we're over there, that way it'll only go through scanning a few times on the way home. Do any UK goons know a place that regularly stocks film? Not looking for anything fancy; cheapo 200 or 400 speed color film would do. There's a Boots near where we'll be, so perhaps there? Thanks!
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Nov 20, 2018 15:57
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Ooh, I like this composition.
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Nov 20, 2018 15:58
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You can carry it through security and tell them you have film you want hand checked instead of sent through the scanner.
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Nov 20, 2018 16:32
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 How big of a problem are x-rays for film? The last (and only) film I brought on a trip seemed to come out fine. What kind of adverse effects would be expected from them being scanned? I'm planning on bringing some film for my trip in a few weeks, maybe now I'll need to be a little more careful with it 
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Nov 20, 2018 16:48
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Fools Infinite posted:You can carry it through security and tell them you have film you want hand checked instead of sent through the scanner. Yeah, I'd heard of that, but we'll be travelling with a five-year-old, so the more streamlined security is, the better! pseudorandom posted:
Here's a thing: https://filmadvance.com/2013/10/how-to-flying-with-film/
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Nov 20, 2018 16:51
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I fly with film a lot. Unless you have a very roundabout trip - more than 5 or 6 legs - or you are carrying really fast film (ISO1600 and above), you don't need to worry about airport x rays. Exposed film is a bit more sensitive than unexposed film though so bear that in mind. You can ask the security dudes to hand-check your film but this is a bit hit-or-miss. Make it easy for them to say yes by having it already in a clear ziplock bag and handing it to them when you make the request. Mostly they'll go with it but don't be surprised if they just stick it on the belt and put it through with the rest of your bags. Don't put your film in a metal case to protect it, all that will do is encourage the scanner guy to turn up the gain to see what's inside. At that point your film is having a bad day. Try not to have film loaded in your camera if you can help it. Sometimes they want you to take a photo with the camera to prove that it's not a blank case to hide drugs or a bomb. They often get confused when you tell them it's a film camera and you might need to open the back. Having said all of that, film in the UK is pretty easy to find, especially if you're in a decent sized city. There's really no reason to carry a lot of it with you from the US unless you are into particularly rare stocks. Boots might sell film, if they do it'll be the cheap and cheerful Kodak Gold 200 kind of stuff, don't expect to find Portra or Velvia there.
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Nov 21, 2018 04:43
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It’s three flights each way, so I’ll probably see what I can find in town when we land. I’m willing to take my chances having undeveloped film exposed to carry-on x-rays two to three times, but four to six is definitely more worrisome. I’m a turbo-noob when it comes to film, so the cheap stuff is a-okay with me. I bet I could probably just have Amazon drop ship some film to where we’ll be staying too. Might look into that...
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Nov 21, 2018 11:51
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Unless you are in some really tiny village, I'm going to say that finding film for sale in a local UK store will not be a problem. Where will you actually be staying?
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Nov 21, 2018 12:10
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Just outside of Ripon. There’s a Boots in town. Harragate’s not far either.
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Nov 21, 2018 12:27
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Every camera store I went into in Reading had film for sale, just ask and they'll probably pull out a box from under the counter.
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Nov 21, 2018 13:04
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President Beep posted:Just outside of Ripon. There’s a Boots in town. Harragate’s not far either. Leeds: https://wycameras.com/ https://www.dalephotographic.co.uk/448192-film-processing Harrogate: https://www.jessops.com/store-finder/harrogate
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Nov 21, 2018 13:07
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Awesome! Thanks!
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Nov 21, 2018 14:57
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Megabound posted:Every camera store I went into in Reading had film for sale, just ask and they'll probably pull out a box from under the counter. Thanks. That's good to know too. I suppose I could've just as easily googled camera shops myself, but I'm unsure of the convention over there (if there is one) of actually keeping things in stock.
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Nov 21, 2018 14:59
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I haven't had issues with slower film in the past. Definitely just buy locally if you're concerned. Here's another thing, complete with comparison photos: https://thedarkroom.com/bringing-film-airport-security-effects-x-rays-film/
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Nov 21, 2018 15:15
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I've never had an issue getting film hand inspected at any North American airport I've gone through. It won't even surprise them. The last time I went through Whitehorse, Yukon I asked the agent (who couldn't have been older than 20) how often he sees this stuff and he said about a dozen times a week and that's at a tiny airport in the middle of nowhere. They're still trained on how to handle film so they won't be pulling the strip out of the can or whatever. Europe on the other hand? It gets scanned. Everything gets scan. Shut up or you're going through the scanner as well.
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Nov 21, 2018 18:24
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Pulled off my first home development job just now! I was a bit stressed out, especially as I’d heard horror stories about the C-41 process, but I did it! I feel like a kid who’s just learned to ride his bike. 
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Nov 23, 2018 02:08
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Seeing as you can correct most developing errors C41 isn't nearly that bad.
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Nov 24, 2018 00:16
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President Beep posted:Pulled off my first home development job just now! C-41 Developer Water (Room Temp) 800.0ml Potassium Carbonate 32.0g Sodium Sulfite 3.5g Potassium Bromide 1.5g Hydroxylamine Sulfate 2.0g CD-4 5.0g (https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/CD_4_Color_developer) Water to make 1.0L C-41 Stop Bath - required Glacial Acetic Acid 10.0ml Water to make 1.0L C-22 Bleach formula Water 750.0ml Potassium Ferricyanide 80.0g Potassium Bromide 20.0g Water to make 1.0L The Fixer is made using Kodak Fixer - same as B&W Kodak Fixer 244.0ml Water to make 1.0L Processing Schedule (at 100F/38C) Dry Warmup 5:00 Developer 3:15 Stop Bath 0:45 Rinse 1:00 (2x 0:30) Bleach 2:30 Rinse 1:00 (2x 0:30) Fixer 2:30 Wash 4:00 (8x 0:30) The Bleach and Fixer can be reused until the the bleach/fixer times extends beyond the times listed above. https://www.artcraftchemicals.com/products/ Shamelessly stolen from: https://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/photo/c41_ra4_chemicals.htm A few frames of Kodak Gold 400 @ 500 developed with the above process.      
Father O'Blivion fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Nov 24, 2018 |
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Nov 24, 2018 04:08
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So cool. Is there any economy in buying the separate chemicals and homebrewing vs. the prepackaged kits? What about qualitative differences in the results? Assuming you've got experience with both.
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Nov 25, 2018 03:57
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Dry chemicals have a better shelf life than liquid kits when stored in a oxygen & moisture free environment. There's an outdated breakdown of cost per roll on the Swiss page linked above, but its cheaper than a kit, particularly when doing small development runs over a long period of time with separate bleach and fix steps. The bleach is composed of salts already on hand if you're doing cyanotype printing and DIY silver gelatin emulsions. The fixer is the same as used on any B&W film stock. I think a lot of the je ne sais quoi of lab development comes from how the developer has been seasoned and potentially replenished after the processing of multiple rolls. A seasoned developer inevitably leads to (hopefully subtle) color shifts and paradoxically greater accutance provided the bleach step is included since the activity of the silver-reducing component of the developer is lessened but the activity of the dye forming components are increased. The color dye produced in the final negative is a function of the components present in developer having already been exposed to the dye layers present in the film. The freshly mixed C-41 developer above would be described as high-activity, producing high contrast and potentially blown highlights when used freshly mixed with box speed exposures. I don't develop enough film to study effects of developer re-use across multiple rolls with or without replenishment so I tune my exposures and development time to account for using freshly mixed developer. I have limited experience with kits, but my guess is that they're formulated to be a bit weaker in their silver-reducing action to tame contrast, probably by altering pH. The color response seems mostly the same but I've never re-used developer mixed from a kit either.
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Nov 25, 2018 05:41
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