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Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

I just want to give props to the spider who made that excellent web in the second picture

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

just another posted:

ugh just enable me please

No. I'd prefer you don't end up hurt and/or with the front of your house ripped off. Secondary concerns are starting a project you aren't equipped to finish.

just another
Oct 16, 2009

these dead towns that make the maps wrong now

Motronic posted:

No. I'd prefer you don't end up hurt and/or with the front of your house ripped off. Secondary concerns are starting a project you aren't equipped to finish.

UGH

Well on the plus side, this job won't get done until the summer anyhow, so I have lots of time to plan and learn, or consider my other options. Unfortunately, with where I live, I either pay less to have a subcontractor do a job I could probably do on my own with some help, or I pay way more to have it done extremely well. It's hard to stomach $40,000 on a porch though when the whole house done to the 9s would fetch maybe $250,000.

For some of the concerns you raised:
Clay soil with a lot of rocks. I was also thinking of pouring temporary concrete bases to carry the weight some, and/or using something like these in place of wood braces: https://ellismanufacturing.com/collections/steel-shores
I'm thinking a week's worth of work at the long end. I'll have some helpers to get it done so it won't be completely solo.
Weather's unpredictable. It'll probably rain at some point no matter how well I plan.
Roof structure will need a proper inspection, yeah. I was already thinking of replacing the soffits with vinyl so that'd be a good time to take a peek at what's under the wood soffits and ceiling.

Jealous Cow posted:

I need to know what’s through that door.
Why it's my beautiful hose & summer tire storage zone.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


I like your soil collection

willroc7
Jul 24, 2006

BADGES? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' BADGES!
I hope that doesn't get below 40F or you shouldn't be storing summer rubber in there.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

willroc7 posted:

I hope that doesn't get below 40F or you shouldn't be storing summer rubber in there.

That's only a thing with super soft high performance summers.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Motronic posted:

That's only a thing with super soft high performance summers.

Go on. I assume this isn't a big deal for overnight dips below 40F? It gets down there in the winter here in Los Angeles but it's obviously not a hard freeze. I'll drive them around the mountains and stuff, not at any kind of speed or on anything frozen. I have ~2014 vintage Hankook Ventus R-S3 XL's on my car. (I would need to double check the rubber stamp on the year, going off my tire rack order.)

willroc7
Jul 24, 2006

BADGES? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' BADGES!

Motronic posted:

That's only a thing with super soft high performance summers.

Well he said summer tires. Is there even such a thing as non super soft summers? Every summer tire I've owned has explicitly said to avoid storing it under 40F.

glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014


Most summer tires aren't damaged by storage in freezing weather, however that tire rack does seem to classify it as an "extreme performance" tire and you should avoid freezing according to their blurb.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

willroc7 posted:

Well he said summer tires. Is there even such a thing as non super soft summers? Every summer tire I've owned has explicitly said to avoid storing it under 40F.

Yes, there is. Non extreme-performance summer tires that are made more for length of wear than stickiness. Those are just called "tires" in the south/other areas where it's warm all year around.

The manufacturer will tell you about storage and/or driving temperatures for the particular tire.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Some Roombas are on sale or something. Since this is the generic homekeeping thread, is there a particularly good option to get (especially for hardwood floors), or is the one on sale at Amazon good enough?

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe

Pollyanna posted:

Some Roombas are on sale or something. Since this is the generic homekeeping thread, is there a particularly good option to get (especially for hardwood floors), or is the one on sale at Amazon good enough?

the 600 series continues to be the best bang for the buck-- if it's a fancier one it'll clean as well but you probably paid too much.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


I just missed a deal by 3 minutes as I was reading the reviews and I am miffed.

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

Hi what floors should we put in our kitchen. I grew up with oak and loved them but we have a fat dog who would destroy something like that probably. Apparently LVP/LVT is the thing to do now?

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost

Bloody posted:

Hi what floors should we put in our kitchen. I grew up with oak and loved them but we have a fat dog who would destroy something like that probably. Apparently LVP/LVT is the thing to do now?

It would work, as would wood-look porcelain tile. With the LVP/LVT it's important to get a sample to attack, as some are rugged and others will scratch easily. I like our Mannington Adura, but there are other great choices out there as well. The cheaper brands and lines can be pretty awful, though.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Qwijib0 posted:

the 600 series continues to be the best bang for the buck-- if it's a fancier one it'll clean as well but you probably paid too much.

Got it - I'll snatch up that 675. Thank you!

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


We have laminate flooring that was designed for dogs (and is also perfect for kids.) Water resistant, scratch resistant, good traction.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


We just redid our main floor with LVP, and I really recommend it. It's been great for our pets, install was easy, and it looks really good. We went with the Smartcore Ultra from Lowes.

Ben Nerevarine
Apr 14, 2006
I'm looking into insulating my house's rim joists. The previous owners hastily stuffed some fiberglass batts cut to size into them and they don't really do anything, and everything I've read online says explicitly not to use fiberglass for this application.

If I buy some foam insulating boards and cut them to size, would I need to put a vapor barrier behind them? Or could I just cut them to size and seal in place with expanding foam around the edges?

I've also read that insulating board is flammable and so requires drywalling over. I'd really rather not have to do that, if possible. This product I found that seems like it would do the job says "Polyiso rigid foam board offers superior fire protection properties compared to any other rigid foam board insulation" but I'm not sure I trust that.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Thermas...13010/100573703

I found this blog post that says a product called THERMAX Heavy Duty insulation doesn't require a fire barrier, but hell if I can find a source for it online.

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?
Anyone familiar with Aprilaire humidifiers? I have one installed (600 series I believe). I'm not very satisfied, I recently installed a Nest thermostat so I'm finally getting a reading and I can't get my house above 30%. Any suggestions?

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber

wandler20 posted:

Anyone familiar with Aprilaire humidifiers? I have one installed (600 series I believe). I'm not very satisfied, I recently installed a Nest thermostat so I'm finally getting a reading and I can't get my house above 30%. Any suggestions?

Water supply on? Humidistat on? Bypass flap(s) open? Pad replaced, and not just a cake of calcium deposits?

That’s the checklist, but my bypass unit sucks too. Seems to be the norm.

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?

eddiewalker posted:

Water supply on? Humidistat on? Bypass flap(s) open? Pad replaced, and not just a cake of calcium deposits?

That’s the checklist, but my bypass unit sucks too. Seems to be the norm.

Yup, checked those things out.

Might have to get a supplemental unit.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber

wandler20 posted:

Yup, checked those things out.

Might have to get a supplemental unit.

General air-sealing and insulation is the real solution.

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?

eddiewalker posted:

General air-sealing and insulation is the real solution.

Makes sense. I do need to add insulation to my attic, been putting it off.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
You’re losing humidity as dry outdoor air seeps in. Attic insulation is a good thing, but leaky windows and such are what really cause dryness.

I used to have dry nostrils, static-y blankets and such, but I drilled down on leaks with some new windows, caulking, weather stripping and such.

Now it’s been around 20F for a few weeks and my house is 40%RH just from showers/cooking etc. I haven’t even bothered turning on the bypass humidifier.

I had a blower door test to find leaks because my utility co paid for it, but honestly all their suggestions were pretty common sense. It all adds up.

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?
Thanks for the tips, I appreciate it. It really does make sense because I know my windows aren't what they should be for North Dakota weather. I'm going to have to break down and replace them sooner than later, especially the west facing ones. Our house builder was not qualified to build a house here. I think they were from Nevada. I've had to fix more things than I'd like to admit.

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost

eddiewalker posted:

You’re losing humidity as dry outdoor air seeps in. Attic insulation is a good thing, but leaky windows and such are what really cause dryness.

I used to have dry nostrils, static-y blankets and such, but I drilled down on leaks with some new windows, caulking, weather stripping and such.

Now it’s been around 20F for a few weeks and my house is 40%RH just from showers/cooking etc. I haven’t even bothered turning on the bypass humidifier.

I had a blower door test to find leaks because my utility co paid for it, but honestly all their suggestions were pretty common sense. It all adds up.

Sigh. I unfortunately need to get around to this. The old house is loving drafty.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Easy solution is to have about 500 gallons worth of aquariums scattered throughout the house.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Enos Cabell posted:

We just redid our main floor with LVP, and I really recommend it. It's been great for our pets, install was easy, and it looks really good. We went with the Smartcore Ultra from Lowes.

I just looked into this and it talks about installation over old flooring is fine. What did you end up doing and any tips on purchase decision/install?

I think regardless of what I end up getting I want to remove the 2-3 layers of linoleum bullshit in my kitchen which means I need to look into the best removal methods for that stuff.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


I'm sure as long as the floor was level, there would be no problem laying this stuff right over the top of it. In our case, we were replacing carpet in the main living room / family room areas and linoleum in the kitchen. The carpeted areas were easy, just pulled up carpet and pad and laid the vinyl plank right on the subfloor. In the kitchen the linoleum was laid on top of a 1/4" sheet of plywood over the subfloor, so we had to pull that out too so that the floors were the same level. I was thankful to have that plywood layer actually, because removing the linoleum and glue loving sucked. Other than having to cut around my cabinets, it was all pretty easy to remove with some long pry bars.

The floor itself goes in pretty easily, I'd for sure pick up the install kit that has the tapping blocks and spacers. Also highly recommend some decent knee pads!

Vulture Culture
Jul 14, 2003

I was never enjoying it. I only eat it for the nutrients.
The only thing that sucks about LVP is that if it does end up getting scratched to the point where you need to replace planks, you need to cut them out and glue the new ones down, and then you lose the water resistance from the plank interlock in that spot.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

wandler20 posted:

Anyone familiar with Aprilaire humidifiers? I have one installed (600 series I believe). I'm not very satisfied, I recently installed a Nest thermostat so I'm finally getting a reading and I can't get my house above 30%. Any suggestions?

They are pretty top notch units. You already got good advice, but to restate some of it in a different way: your unit, if it it running properly, is undersized. This is very common.

You can decrease the load factor (air sealing) or increase the unit size. Or some of both.

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?

Motronic posted:

They are pretty top notch units. You already got good advice, but to restate some of it in a different way: your unit, if it it running properly, is undersized. This is very common.

You can decrease the load factor (air sealing) or increase the unit size. Or some of both.

I'll look into a bigger unit. I had it professionally installed so you'd think they would know what size I'd need but apparently not. Also, I can't complain much because they never charged me for the unit or install. They also did all the duct work when I was finishing my basement. I called after like 2 months for a bill and they said they'd look into it. Never got one, that was 4 years ago lol.

willroc7
Jul 24, 2006

BADGES? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' BADGES!
Speaking of duct work, I just discovered that the previous owner but sheets of fiberglass insulation INSIDE the duct work in about 1/3 of my house, in the duct work running above the basement and garage (raised ranch construction). I'm having an HVAC company come out next week. Does the seller have any liability here? Should it have been disclosed? I'm assuming it's been blowing fiberglass particles all over the house since they did this. The duct cleaning company said they've never seen anything like this. Mental. I have allergies and asthma and have had mild to moderate breathing problems (mostly congestion) since moving in.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

willroc7 posted:

Speaking of duct work, I just discovered that the previous owner but sheets of fiberglass insulation INSIDE the duct work in about 1/3 of my house, in the duct work running above the basement and garage (raised ranch construction). I'm having an HVAC company come out next week. Does the seller have any liability here? Should it have been disclosed?

Welcome to being a (previously owned home) homeowner. Part of the fun is finding sloppy, hack-y, and downright dangerous DIY jobs the P.O. or his lovely 'contractors' did.

That definitely ranks up there on the 'WTF were they thinking' scale.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

willroc7 posted:

Speaking of duct work, I just discovered that the previous owner but sheets of fiberglass insulation INSIDE the duct work in about 1/3 of my house, in the duct work running above the basement and garage (raised ranch construction). I'm having an HVAC company come out next week. Does the seller have any liability here? Should it have been disclosed? I'm assuming it's been blowing fiberglass particles all over the house since they did this. The duct cleaning company said they've never seen anything like this. Mental. I have allergies and asthma and have had mild to moderate breathing problems (mostly congestion) since moving in.

That's entirely normal.

https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?172189-Insulation-INSIDE-supply-ductwork

immoral_
Oct 21, 2007

So fresh and so clean.

Young Orc
Yeah, fiberglass board insulation isn't uncommon in hvac duct. It should be 1/2 to an inch thick, and black under all the accumulated dust.

It's in there to reduce noise and to prevent condensation from forming on the duct and then dripping all over stuff.

Now if it's just some batt insulation thrown in there, there's a problem.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

immoral_ posted:

Now if it's just some batt insulation thrown in there, there's a problem.

That's what I thought willroc7 meant with "fibers blowing around".

willroc7
Jul 24, 2006

BADGES? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' BADGES!
Yea it’s batt.

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immoral_
Oct 21, 2007

So fresh and so clean.

Young Orc

willroc7 posted:

Yea it’s batt.

Oh , then run away.

I do ductwork all day everyday so when I see something about insulation I'm not thinking batt, but since you said someone else had looked, I thought I'd at least give them some benefit.

Duct insulation is fiberglass based but it's compressed, unlike the floofy poo poo that batt is.

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