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Combat Pretzel posted:Is there any decent supplier that's pretty good quality but cheaper than the EKWB stuff? I specced out some Threadripper cooling, and I'm at like 500€ ;_; Watercool.de (Heatkiller) parts are definitely higher quality than EKWB, for around the same price. Just got everything in and I'm kind of shocked at how heavy and well machined everything is, especially this reservoir: 
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Aug 26, 2018 22:35
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Got my EKWB parts, they seem decent enough. Only thing that bugs me is that the core of the 38mm thick radiator is only 20mm. Seems the other 18mm is just headroom on the bracket for fan mounting screws.
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Aug 31, 2018 13:48
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Combat Pretzel posted:Got my EKWB parts, they seem decent enough. Only thing that bugs me is that the core of the 38mm thick radiator is only 20mm. Seems the other 18mm is just headroom on the bracket for fan mounting screws. Every radiator is like that
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Aug 31, 2018 15:09
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My ekwb tank/pump combo came with the tank crossthreaded into the pump base. It was pretty easy to clean up the threads and fix it, but it was was a good thing to discover before I mounted it in the case. 
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Sep 3, 2018 18:19
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How bad is a vortex in the reservoir, anyway? I got the glass reservoir from EKWB and the liquid is spinning. The vortex doesn't reach to the intake, but it kinda looks cool. There's an antivortex PU foam piece, but I didn't use it because people keep saying it's crap that gets brittle and breaks apart.
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Sep 11, 2018 09:45
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It can lead to air getting into the loop. And yes the foam is garbage because it will trap air instead of allowing it to bubble to the top of the reservoir. Mine came with an anti vortex baffle which works pretty well, didn't yours? It's just a piece of perforated plastic you put in the middle of the reservoir.
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Sep 11, 2018 11:57
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Nah, I took the glass version. The glass part isn't threaded, and held together by an acetal top that gets screwed into a metal pipe, to tighten everything. With lower pump speeds, the vortex goes more or less away. Fine then I guess.
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Sep 11, 2018 12:03
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One thing I never tried is to put the foam at the top of the water level, which should prevent the surface from spiralling, and air trapped there shouldn't matter.
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Sep 11, 2018 12:05
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So my first loop was a bit of a learning experience. Turns out you can fit an EATX motherboard, two slim 360mm rads, and EK's dual D5 serial pumps into a fractal r6. But there are a lot of things you can do that you probably shouldn't. I'm using EK's knockoff norprene and that stuff is really hard with compression fittings, barbs and zip ties would have been easier. For vortexes my reservoir only came with the foam. I'm using it right now but I've read that the foam can break down over time so I've ordered one of those bitspower anti-cyclone fittings. Luckily I'll be needing to drain the loop anyway once the new graphics card and water block arrive, so I don't have to do anything unscheduled.
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Sep 11, 2018 19:54
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Well, that didn't take long for one of the Vardars to go to poo poo and create an annoying chirp/high pitched whine. Lesson learned, time for the brown ones. --edit: Apparently the PWM controller got in a tizzy. A reboot fixed it. (?!?) --edit: Spoke too soon, there it is again. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Sep 16, 2018 |
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Sep 15, 2018 23:59
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Thank God for flex tubing. I switched the fans on the radiator without draining poo poo (I didn't put a drain valve in because I don't trust these rotating fittings I've ordered for it. YOLO.) Anyway, I got me some of these fancy A12x25 from Noctua, and they're loving ridiculous. Silent as hell. That, or those Vardars were loud as gently caress. Or both.
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Sep 20, 2018 16:24
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Having used the Vardars before and as an owner of two x25's now, I think it was definitely the Vardars being noisy.
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Sep 20, 2018 16:56
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I'm going to be running two different GPUs in my water loop, and I haven't been able to find an answer on how standard the inlet/outlet port positioning is on GPU blocks. If I get two different brands of blocks will they line up nicely, or could they be off by enough to prevent rigid, straight connectors from working? The tubing in working with is pretty stiff so I'd prefer they just line up straight. I've already got a phanteks block for my non-ref 1080ti, since there weren't too many options. There's nothing wrong with it, but I'm not sure whether I can take my pick of whatever the best block is or whether I should avoid wasting my time and just order the new phanteks block.
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Sep 20, 2018 20:55
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Desuwa posted:I'm going to be running two different GPUs in my water loop, and I haven't been able to find an answer on how standard the inlet/outlet port positioning is on GPU blocks. If I get two different brands of blocks will they line up nicely, or could they be off by enough to prevent rigid, straight connectors from working? The tubing in working with is pretty stiff so I'd prefer they just line up straight. "IT DEPENDS"... Real answer, their technical support should be able to let you know what's up (or at least some measurements you could use to mock it up). If all else fails, you could always order it, try a dry fit and if it doesn't line up just return it and get another phanteks....
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Sep 20, 2018 21:29
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So despite phanteks customer support ensuring me that they'd line up, they didn't line up. Luckily I had enough random fittings sitting around that I was able to build something that connected them in series, which is enough even if I was planning on doing them in parallel. Definitely going to let this leak test for an extended period, though there's no real reason why it shouldn't be fine. Not really impressed with phanteks support on this. Was also surprised that this block, unlike the 1080ti version, isn't compatible with the stock backplate. Good thing aesthetics was never a concern since I can't actually see inside it from where I sit, because I ended up using some needlenose pliers to get things tightened since I could barely maneuver my hands in there. Serial GPUs should be fine for me since I'll generally only be loading one of the two GPUs at a time, and I've got two D5 pumps in serial so flow rate shouldn't ever be a problem. Also not a fan of EK; I can't install the anti-cyclone fitting inside the reservoir because there just isn't enough threading to do it. Leaving me with only their foam, which after only a month has already started to break down - when I just drained my loop I found a little piece of it in the bucket. I've got a replacement reservoir coming in on Monday, which ended up being the fastest solution even over trying to order an acrylic baffle. It's not worth going without my system for the rest of the weekend but I do want that foam out of my loop as fast as possible. I think I'll be avoiding EK in the future if they think this foam is something people should be running.
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Oct 13, 2018 11:50
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I'm probably going full idiot and doing a custom watercooling loop for a new PC in a month or two. I've used AIOs before but custom has always felt overly complicated and not worth it. And it probably still is, but it looks cool and with modern cases and components supporting it well plus a crapton of youtube tutorials I figure I'll go for it regardless. Also, turns out that it's a lot cheaper, relatively speaking, to buy dumb nerd crap you don't really need as an engineer in California than it was as a CS student in Sweden. I figure that the high end stuff like EK Waterblocks, Watercool, Bitspower and so on are probably all fine but it also seems like you pay a pretty big premium for them so I'm looking at the slightly-less-high end. Are there any brands to specifically avoid? I assume Thermaltake are still bad. Current planned purchase is a lot of XSPC stuff, mostly because I really liked what their Ion reservoir looks like in pictures and there's very close to no point in doing a custom water cooling loop where you don't like the aesthetics. A mostly opaque white and chrome loop with clear coolant looks good in my head, at least. Aiming for something like this as far as the loop is concerned:  but with a separate D5 pump somewhere because apparently the pump that's in that combo version of the reservoir is dogshit. Stupid questions: - How much tubing do you need? I'll be getting a midtower (Define R6 probably, O11 maybe) and I wont be doing anything super fancy. - Is matte white soft tubing a thing? All soft tubing I could find was glossy for some hopefully dumb reason. - How many extra random fittings will I want, and which types? - Relatedly, do components with >2 fitting attachment points typically come with plugs for them? - Any point in getting elbow joints for tight turns with soft tubing? - No mixing metals, sure, but aluminium fins are fine on the radiator as long as the tube is copper, right? - Is there a good site to buy this stuff in the US? EKWB is obviously nice, if you're willing buy exclusively EKWB stuff. I used performance-pcs for my preliminary list and they have a lot of different things at what looks like reasonable prices, combined with both the aesthetics and functionality of a geocities storefront ca 1998. Current parts list. GPU block obviously very tentative, depending on what PCB I actually get in a month. Possibly I'll just get the CPU parts first: code:
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Oct 17, 2018 09:44
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Xerophyte posted:
-3m of tubing should do you just fine, if you cant find matte white hosing what you could do instead is get a clear tubing but get a pastal white coolent -if your doing soft tubing then you will only need fittings to connect it all to each point cpu block, radiator etc so 2 fittings per item in the loop though you may want to think about a drain port of some sort as when it comes time to draining the loop you will be thanking yourself so much. -if they have more then 2 ports then yes typically they will come with blanking plugs for the excess ports -elbows and rotary joints can be good for even soft tubing to ensure your not putting kinks or tight bends in the loop so it will depend on how your going to route your tubing. -yes thats fine as like you said the aluminum is not in contact with the loop parts -as im in  I cant comment on this last part sorry  and finally if your going to put a water block on a 2080ti, just get the reference model PCB its more then up to spec to over perform, as just like pascal, turing is voltage locked so all the extra bells and whistles that AIBs put on are useless once you put a custom wc block on top! God I look at that part list and slowly weep when I think how much my cooling loop cost, I spent more then that entire loop in just fittings !
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Oct 17, 2018 11:07
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Scarecow posted:-3m of tubing should do you just fine, if you cant find matte white hosing what you could do instead is get a clear tubing but get a pastal white coolent I feel your pain with fittings (this isn't even all of them):  So I'm about to embark on an all-straight, acyrilic tube adventure with a shitload of passthrough fittings in a PC-V3000. It's got a similar configuration to the SMA8 but the "basement" isn't a completely separate compartment. Got any tips for measuring/drilling the holes for the passthroughs? My plan is to just build the thing, one link at a time, and measure out the tubes (one end compressed in the fitting with the other end "bare") until the bare end is flush with the case, then mark the circle on top of some painters tape. Once I've got the circle drawn (and re-measured/triple checked), I'll take it all apart (so metal shards don't get trapped in bad places) and use a 19mm hole saw with some drill oil to cut the basic circle. I've got a tungsten cutting attachment for my Dremel that I'll use to chamfer the edges and expand the hole to 20mm (for the Barrow fittings I've got). Then I'll install the fittings, and trim the the bare end of the tube using this thing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074B3PY7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Yml4BbZG3HT0P Until everything is nice and snug. Do I have this figured out or am I missing something critical? I haven't actually cut anything yet except some tubes to test this little thing (which kicks rear end for cutting acrylic tubing): https://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html Now I just need to figure out how to attach a diamond disk to it so I can eventually replace the tubing with boro glass 
forbidden dialectics fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Nov 6, 2018 |
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Nov 6, 2018 00:07
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Water Cooling: This isn’t even my final fitting
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Nov 6, 2018 00:57
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drat though, what's wrong with cutting some home depot ABS or PVC pipe to size, and purple primering and gluing some fittings on? It'd be like $30. Cut + well-sealed boro glass would be a badass sight.
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Nov 6, 2018 02:22
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Posted this in the overclocking thread before I saw this one, might be more appropriate here. I'm going to be upgrading my system from a 6700k to a 9700k, so new mobo/ram/psu the works. I've currently got a Noctua NH-U14S on my 6700k, but that will probably be getting sold on with the rest of the stuff. Was thinking of sticking with Noctua and going with a NH-D15, but at that price I'm getting into AIO water cooler territory. I've got a Corsair Carbide 600 case, which has room for a front 280mm and bottom 360mm radiators. I haven't really looked too hard into water cooling before, so with a budget of say $200ish and the goal of max OCs without breaking my ear drums, which route would you all take? Also, if I wanted to add cooling for a 1080ti, that would take a separate AIO correct? Do they make AIO units that can do both GPU/CPU or is that custom loop territory?
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Nov 6, 2018 19:48
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Enos Cabell posted:Posted this in the overclocking thread before I saw this one, might be more appropriate here. Quiet while extracting "max OCs" and cooling a big GPU is firmly custom loop territory, because you could easily be approaching 500w heat output in that scenario.
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Nov 6, 2018 20:28
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Enos Cabell posted:I've got a Corsair Carbide 600 case, which has room for a front 280mm and bottom 360mm radiators. I haven't really looked too hard into water cooling before, so with a budget of say $200ish and the goal of max OCs without breaking my ear drums, which route would you all take? Caveat: I haven't used any of this stuff in particular, but I have spent the last month trying to figure out the state of the market so I'm replying anyhow. For $200 you can get a really nice 360mm AIO like a H150i Pro or a Kraken X72 which will be easy to install, have a warranty, and outdo even very large air coolers, if not by that much. This is almost certainly the good and sane choice at your budget point. As for AIOs that can be extended to do both CPU and GPU, there's EK's modular liquid cooling stuff which sort of counts, I guess? You buy a pre-filled radiator+pump combo with quick disconnects, and then you can attach and detach similarly pre-filled waterblocks as you please without needing to do any tedious loop maintenance. It'll cost around $270 for radiator + CPU block and you'll be locked into the MLC series, but you can extend your now semi-custom loop with GPU block or an additional radiator later so you can get better performance or less noise. It's not going to be much different than a real AIO by default, but it has flexibility. There's also the occasional dual CPU & GPU AIO like this thing that I wouldn't use. Combo AIOs never really took off. The next step up is EK's Fluid Gaming stuff which is meant to be baby's first custom loop, and runs $300 for a 360mm radiator, pump, reservoir, cpu & gpu blocks, etc. Far as I understand it's pretty good quality for the price but you likewise become very locked in to that particular product line. The components are all aluminium everything, which is cheap but also means you should avoid mixing them with any copper parts or fittings to avoid corrosion. You're also in full custom loop territory and will need to assemble everything, fill your loop, bleed your loop, maintain your loop and live in constant fear of your loop exploding all over your PSU because you over-tightened a fitting. If you're willing to completely blow your budget you can of course also make a proper custom loop, for at least 50% more money than the aluminium stuff.
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Nov 6, 2018 20:53
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Thanks guys, looking like the Kraken X72 is in my future. Checking reviews it looks to be both quieter and cooler than the Noctua D15. Probably not enough to justify the extra $90, but then again jumping from a 6700k to 9700k isn't the smartest use of money anyway!
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Nov 6, 2018 21:11
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A heavy package from China arrived! I wonder what's inside? Oh geez ok this is a bit better  First time with hard tubing and cutting holes in cases, turns out if you just use a ruler and some tape and carefully measure and mark things, it's not too bad! 
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Nov 11, 2018 07:49
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Nice! Please show us how it looks when you’re done.
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Nov 12, 2018 03:55
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At the point now where I can't really do much more until I get my motherboard and CPU. I've ordered the 9900k finally (Newegg had them in stock for $569, decided to jump on it before the stock situation gets any worse) and it's on it's way to Silicon Lottery for delidding. I'm planning on using an EVGA z390 Dark which is coming "mid December" according to their latest feed. Bottom rad is an XSPC RX480 V3. It's a really tight fit - even with soft tubing, you need some funky angled connectors and it ends up looking pretty gnarly. I think this is a pretty good solution - I used adjustable couplers to bulkhead fittings through the front of the case. There's about 50mm of clearance in the front - plenty for angled fittings and soft tubes.  This shows the couplers - there's a temperature sensor on the top (this will be the "out" sensor at the end of the radiator part of the loop).   The idea being that I can route a bunch of soft tubing to the opposite side of the case where you can't see it.  Bulkhead fittings on the other side of the "basement", opposite the radiator compartment.  Skip forward a bit - test fitting fans and the front radiator, with the res and filter mounted.  You can see the drain port on the bottom right of the 480 radiator. Just a Barrow ball valve that I'll hook a barb/soft tube up to.  The front is a HWlabs GTS360. Since a 420 rad will be going up to, there's zero clearance to route tubes.  So, the same thing up top with adjustable couplers:  This is all hidden by the front of the case. I tested it and it does take a small toll on airflow, but nothing significant with this much radiator.  Aquaero 6LT and a bunch of Splitty9s to run a test on the fans. The final build will be much cleaner with holes drilled in the case to properly mount everything.  Another D5 hides underneath the main res. It's the Aquacomputer PWM version, and since I'll have a flow meter, I plan on tweaking both pumps to average out the flow rate to ~1GPM at idle and ~1.5GPM after a certain temperature delta. Since I have a lot of fittings and restrictive pieces, I figured, why not? 
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Nov 23, 2018 02:12
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forbidden dialectics posted:At the point now where I can't really do much more until I get my motherboard and CPU. I've ordered the 9900k finally (Newegg had them in stock for $569, decided to jump on it before the stock situation gets any worse) and it's on it's way to Silicon Lottery for delidding. I'm planning on using an EVGA z390 Dark which is coming "mid December" according to their latest feed. That's awesome! I have the same case and considerably less competence. I haven't done a custom loop before this so everything to do with tubes has been very new and also very scary. So far I've bled the loop 0 times and the loop has bled me 3 times. Parts, minus fans and GPU waterblock (which is arriving today):  WIP after my first day wrangling tubes. Pardon the crappy flash photos, it was late and I'm lazy.   No plan survives first contact with the motherboard I guess. I was unsurprisingly going to have 4 fans for the top radiator with the fittings on the left side, which would let me route the tube from the rad to the reservoir behind the radiator itself and keep most of the case clear of tubing. Turns out that with the motherboard's ostentatious IO cover and radiator thickness I can't put either fittings or fans on the left end. I could probably make it work with some grinding or just a slimmer rad, but even then I'd need to rout the CPU cables and front panel HDMI some other and more annoying way. So I ended up with stupid tube going across the entire case and a 3/4 radiator. Meh. I'm thinking about how to fix it all but I'll leave it this way for the immediate future. I need more 90 and 45 degree fittings (apparently you always need more angle fittings) to do a better tube route and it doesn't seem a pressing concern.  I ended up getting an EK pump and reservoir. Pump isn't quite mounted properly, but I admit I kinda like the slight angle I had to use to get it on the case's mounting plate. I was not prepared for how much force was required to get the 5/8" tubing over the barbs, I'm reasonably worried I might have broken part of the pump assembly when attaching the tubing. The compression fittings don't quite feel like they compress that much but on the other hand the barb seal is ridiculously tight; guess I'll see what the leak test yields.  Bottom compartment is indeed a very tight fit. I was going to put the drain here but that was nearly impossible with the big XSPC ball valve so I just used it for the temp sensor and put the drain at the pump inlet above the radiator. I'll probably try to move it down and closer to the case wall just to better center the fans, but it doesn't seem possible to center them all that well. Hopefully I can finish the drat thing today or tomorrow and take some pictures with non-garbage lighting, fewer greasy fingerprints and less lint. Xerophyte fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Nov 23, 2018 |
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Nov 23, 2018 19:05
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Looks much cleaner than my first build! You could probably route that top tube through the cable gasket right above the motherboard, through the back, then out through the 3.5" drive bays on the other side. Might look a little cleaner than having it run across the front.
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Nov 24, 2018 01:30
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Here's my PC-V3000 system. It's a great case. The pump is in the chamber behind the 480mm radiator, below the reservoir. 
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Nov 24, 2018 15:33
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While doing a system upgrade I decided to finally get rid of the optical bay in my Corsair Obsidian 750D: Before:  After:  It isn't a custom water loop if you haven't taken a Dremel (or other high speed cutting tool) to your case to make it fit better. Makes that 420mm EKWB behemoth look slightly less out of place since a third of it isn't inside an unused drive bay anymore. I might get a right angle fitting or two now to straighten up the tubing runs, although the length and flex as is allowed me to reuse the whole loop with a new motherboard without having to cut any additional tubing. Also glad I didn't waste money on putting a drain in the loop after all, since it is soft tubing I just released the pump/res mount opened the port at the top and tipped it over into a bucket which drained the whole loop with minimal effort. If it was a hard tubing loop it would be a different story for sure. As for temps, I set BIOS to let 250w through this i9-9900k, threw Prime 95 v28.5 (AVX) small fft at it which made it pull 196w, and it hit about 80C after a couple minutes. Once I get some proper fan/pump speed profiles setup (speedfan doesn't work with this motherboard!  ) I might go for a longer run just to see where it equalizes, but I know from experience this loop can vent 300w and change without making a sound and not rising more than about 5C from the initial surge.
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Nov 24, 2018 15:48
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Indiana_Krom posted:It isn't a custom water loop if you haven't taken a Dremel (or other high speed cutting tool) to your case to make it fit better. --edit:  (Not exactly the most prettiest, but it needs to mainly just keep a Threadripper cool.) Indiana_Krom posted:Also glad I didn't waste money on putting a drain in the loop after all Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Nov 24, 2018 |
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Nov 24, 2018 16:34
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Indiana_Krom posted:As for temps, I set BIOS to let 250w through this i9-9900k, threw Prime 95 v28.5 (AVX) small fft at it which made it pull 196w, and it hit about 80C after a couple minutes. Yeah, unfortunately even with a really good water setup, the bottleneck for heat transfer is still the processor itself. The IHS, the somewhat lovely solder, the extra thick silicon on the top of the die. So pop that IHS off and get sanding
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Nov 24, 2018 17:54
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forbidden dialectics posted:Yeah, unfortunately even with a really good water setup, the bottleneck for heat transfer is still the processor itself. The IHS, the somewhat lovely solder, the extra thick silicon on the top of the die. I delidded my last processor and gave it the liquid metal treatment, but 80C in prime95 AVX hell while dissipating 196 watts is acceptable for now .
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Nov 24, 2018 18:26
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I dunno if anyone saw, but Jays 2 cents figured out that some of the 9000 series CPUs have rounded heat spreaders. Delidded temps are almost the same as lapping.
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Nov 24, 2018 18:37
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redeyes posted:I dunno if anyone saw, but Jays 2 cents figured out that some of the 9000 series CPUs have rounded heat spreaders. Delidded temps are almost the same as lapping. Lmao they really shat out these soldered heat spreaders as quickly as they could.
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Nov 25, 2018 23:01
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Malcolm XML posted:Lmao they really shat out these soldered heat spreaders as quickly as they could. Yeah I'll probably go direct die or get one of those Rockit heatspreaders. Most IHS in the past have been slightly convex (to increase the mounting pressure iirc) but this is kind of crazy.
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Nov 26, 2018 01:15
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redeyes posted:I dunno if anyone saw, but Jays 2 cents figured out that some of the 9000 series CPUs have rounded heat spreaders. Delidded temps are almost the same as lapping. That was dumb, he delidded only to put regular thermal paste back in there. The gains from doing that are usually very small. I don't know how accurately the video reflects his benchmarking either but in the recorded content the thermal benchmarking seems to consist of eyeballing the core peak temperatures a grand total of one time - not really that accurate a measurement. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Nov 26, 2018 |
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Nov 26, 2018 01:52
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Indiana_Krom posted:Once I get some proper fan/pump speed profiles setup (speedfan doesn't work with this motherboard!
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Nov 26, 2018 03:23
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forbidden dialectics posted:You could probably route that top tube through the cable gasket right above the motherboard, through the back, then out through the 3.5" drive bays on the other side. Might look a little cleaner than having it run across the front. I tested and I could indeed do that ... if I had more right angle fittings and tube. Oh well, something to fix once I go full idiot and add that 2nd GPU. I've been down with a norovirus most of the weekend but finally got back to finishing the loop and doing leektesting. There was one disgusting leek, for which I blame EK's stupid recessed G1/4 inlet on their stupid reservoir not working with other people's fittings; it was easily fixed by adding one of their included EK extenders, at least. Now doing the boring "tune my overclocks, run stress tests and see if I won the lottery" part. At minimum I can run my "XC Gaming" GPU at clocks faster than the $200 more expensive "FTW3", and my 9900K at 4.9GHz all cores without touching voltage, apparently, so lottery status is looking pretty good. It's weird and strange how little noise the thing makes after being used to not having 960mm worth of radiator. 3dmark is pegging my GPU (or CPU) to 100% and my loop is happily keeping my coolant at 40C while running at 20% PWM for the radiator fans. The loudest part of my build under load is the PSU, and that's probably just because I haven't enabled the EVGA "eco mode" on it. lovely photo of the finished loop, with the sort of bad lighting I said I wouldn't use again:  Need to add storage, manage cables and figure out how my intake fans will work.
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Nov 28, 2018 08:13
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