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I've got an '05 Impreza with no owner's manual. What's the 'official' procedure for changing a headlight, and what size bulb do I need? I know that on my wife's '13 outback they're accesed from the wheel well.
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Nov 21, 2018 19:15
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For a headlight bulb on a 97, 03, and 06 Impreza there are big plastic screw-on caps on the back of the headlight. Open the hood, reach on in there and unscrew the cap. Then you have to pinch a pair of metal prongs to release the bulb. I'm assuming it's the same for the 04-05. You might have to unbolt the intake horn from the front end to reach the passenger side headlight. That's two 10mms and it just slips off. For the drivers side you probably have to pull the battery out to get enough room to work. I'm guessing your 05 wants an H1 bulb for low-beam. As you probably already know: replace in pairs, wear clean gloves, don't touch the headlight bulb with bare fingers. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Nov 21, 2018 |
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Nov 21, 2018 23:29
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18 Crosstrek. Rear passenger door won't open, and looks like the lock isn't unlocking. It's pretty chilly out, so not sure if that caused an issue? I have an appointment for the first.oil change in a few weeks, but anyone know what might cause that? Lock switch isnt working, and I can manually unlock it from the inside either
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Nov 22, 2018 23:47
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The Slack Lagoon posted:18 Crosstrek. Rear passenger door won't open, and looks like the lock isn't unlocking. It's pretty chilly out, so not sure if that caused an issue? I have an appointment for the first.oil change in a few weeks, but anyone know what might cause that? Lock switch isnt working, and I can manually unlock it from the inside either Sounds like the linkage got disturbed. If so it probably won't be anything you can fix yourself; prepare for a warranty claim. If the door is locked closed and the interior trim can't be removed with a closed door they're going to have to scope and grab it or more likely break the interior trim panel to access the inside of the door.
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Nov 23, 2018 06:30
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The Slack Lagoon posted:18 Crosstrek. Rear passenger door won't open, and looks like the lock isn't unlocking. It's pretty chilly out, so not sure if that caused an issue? I have an appointment for the first.oil change in a few weeks, but anyone know what might cause that? Lock switch isnt working, and I can manually unlock it from the inside either Make sure that it isn't just frozen shut because of ice. If you can hear clicking when you lock and unlock the power locks then it could just be water that froze.
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Nov 23, 2018 13:04
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The inside lock switch won't move if I try to open it, and I tried after a drive and the heat was on and same thing. Going for a longwr drive tonight,.I'll blast the heat and see if that looseness anything up
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Nov 23, 2018 15:37
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Frozen door usually just presents as locks/handle working but being unable to physically pull open the door. If the lock mechanism is jammed my money is something with the internal linkage.
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Nov 23, 2018 15:40
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Alright. Is this something that should be covered by the base warranty? Only had the car for 5 months
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Nov 23, 2018 15:49
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Absolutely, you should have already made an appointment with a dealer to get it checked out. Likely it's a minor issue and they'll fix it within a few hours (dealers can be slow)
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Nov 23, 2018 16:07
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Alright. Is this something that should be covered by the base warranty? Only had the car for 5 months Yes, this is warranty covered unless you were in a demolition derby last week.
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Nov 23, 2018 16:16
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Bajaha posted:Absolutely, you should have already made an appointment with a dealer to get it checked out. I just noticed it yesterday when we left to drive to Thanksgiving dinner. I'll give the dealer a call
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Nov 23, 2018 16:25
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What would make my top rad hose touch the fans? Engine mounts old and hard breaking? And i have what im 99% sure is a wind whistle from the wheel well plastic that is super loud, everything is cable tied and feels solid but i cant figure it out. Any ideas?
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Nov 24, 2018 05:36
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How's the pitch stop mount and bracket on the firewall look? I hear those break off occasionally. Stock radiator and hoses?
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Nov 24, 2018 05:45
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Yeah was the stock hose. The whistle is gone now that a new pipe is in even though the whistle sounded like it was in the wheelwell ooppsite the side of the car to the pipe. ???????? Ill upload a video of the whistle when i get home
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Nov 24, 2018 06:15
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How dumb do you think it is to go back on the track. Im pretty sure its bled and it didnt take much. Sat there for like 10 mins at 2k and let it cool down such that you could comfortably touch everything, overflow level maybe raised a bit and the top resevoir was at the level of its overflow pipe. E: the pitch stop looks fine to me visually though im not sure what im looking for. A lil bit of lateral play maybe. Missed last call so w/e, missed the long fun version of the track 
underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Nov 24, 2018 |
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Nov 24, 2018 06:25
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I'm not really sure what you're saying happened. And what car is this on? But as far as the pitch stop goes you might need to take off the intercooler to really check. Or have someone yank on the motor and look closely at it, especially where it mounts to the firewall. But even assuming all that's fine a motor can move around enough on track to touch the hoses to the fans or p/s pulley. Stiffer motor/trans/pitch stop, either group n or aftermarket like cusco+kartboy will stop that plus I like to trim the edges of the hoses to get as much clearance as possible on a cars that go on track. Learned that lesson the hard way a long time ago.
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Nov 24, 2018 18:25
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Sorry i was very tired and frustrated and running on not enough sleep. I was describing how I bled it. Ill pull the intercooler off when i get a chance, but I think the left side engine mount is torn because it was clunking the whole way home, enough that Im going to borrow my sisters car to get to work this week. Its all factory apart from the fairly stiff coilovers. I might not have a chance to look at it this weekend Its an 05 wrx. How common is ripping the pitchstop mount from the firewall with group n vs aftermarket mounts. The nasioc thread about it is full of idiots. The correct way to inspect the engine and trans mounts is just to look at them and then push the motor and trans with a breaker bar, right? People have told me to put the handbrake on and try come off the clutch slowly, which sounds pretty dumb.
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Nov 25, 2018 03:13
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Pitch stop bracket is an issue on newer cars. Yours is probably fine. And those probably mostly break when guys just install a solid pitch stop and leave everything else alone. That puts a lot more stress on it vs changing all the mounts to similar parts. I do prefer the Cusco mounts to oem because they have captive bushings oriented in the right direction. Oem are a piece of rubber between two plates and they tear, even group n. Cusco are stiffer and louder and more expensive though. But probably make sure that's the problem first. Stock mounts on a 05 are probably pretty floppy though. I'd just get under there and pry on stuff when you get a chance. jamal fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Nov 25, 2018 |
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Nov 25, 2018 03:57
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I'll get under it when I get a chance. It's raining though and I don't have anywhere both flat and undercover that doesn't have a broken car in it already so it might not be for a while. Thanks.
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Nov 25, 2018 05:23
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OK, I can't seem to get a straight answer from the internet. I'm needing to replace sway bar end links and a few bushings, and replace my rack and pinion on my 09 Legacy and want to install new shock/struts while I have all this poo poo taken apart. I'd like to drop the ride height by just a bit, like 1", and have really no plans to do anything further with my car except commute. It seems like there are some budget coilover options, but those also seem like more than what I need, and Subaru forums (which have posts that are anywhere from 2-8 years old) say that anything aside from a $2k set of coilovers is just a waste of time and money. So are there any options for shock/strut that will be a bit of performance upgrade over stock and allow for slight drop in ride height, or am I stuck with coilovers? And if so, any recommendations for daily driver?
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Nov 25, 2018 22:22
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The KW V2 or RCE Tarmac 1 are about the only two coilovers out there for that car that I like all that much. Otherwise it's stuff like tein flex and hks and bc racing, and the options are pretty limited for that car since it does not share a rear suspension design with any other cars (with other generations you can usually use impreza/wrx parts). The problem with the cheap coilovers is that they are overly stiff and short on travel and are not as well made or durable. The camber plates on an $800 coilover for example are garbage and are just going to result in a lovely ride and a ton of extra noise, even before they start clunking. KW would be the best coilover option, however, they do not have any available in the US right now. Turnaround for special ordering from germany is fairly quick, but I'm not sure ~$1700 on KWs is the best option for you either way. Because of the spec b, bilstein does make shocks and struts for these. So some Bilstein B6s plus a set of lowering springs to go with them would be cheaper, easier, ride better than most coilovers, and last longer. There are a few additional things needed with the bilsteins like new front top mounts but nothing that's a big deal. What bushings are you looking for and why do you need a new steering rack? Also if you want pricing on parts or anything because I sell most of this stuff send me an email (peter at functionauto.com)
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Nov 26, 2018 00:02
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What I'm assuming is on of the seals on the input shaft on the top of the rack is leaking, as I had a loss of power steering fluid and tracked it back to a nasty spray all over the place from the top of the rack. I've read that the rebuild kits aren't great and it's usually recommended to just replace the entire rack. If that's not the case I'm open to suggestion. I already have some bushings, I got some polyurethane ones for the swaybar and something else I can't recall now. Definitely would be OK with a Bilstein and lowering spring. I was able to find some people recommending Eihbach springs, but then is looks as though the part number isn't manufactured anymore...?
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Nov 26, 2018 03:25
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Laminator posted:What I'm assuming is on of the seals on the input shaft on the top of the rack is leaking O-Rings on the high pressure line going into the rack more than likely TBH. Not a fun job but doesnt require a rack rebuild. Front springs will directly swap from any pre 08 WRX ad so will struts. Ask me how I know (dont, that car turned into a pile of poo poo) Contrary to some thoughts, rear struts from a 08 WRX can fit, I believe the lower bolt mount needs to be exchanged but still doable. Springs are availible from Australia.
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Nov 26, 2018 04:15
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My 2000 Outback 5MT has a very high idle when it's cold out, like 3000+, I have already replaced the IAC valve which helped reduce engine speeds and frequency but it hasn't gone away completely. What should I check next?
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Nov 26, 2018 05:31
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Probably a vacuum leak. Could be injector seats, manifold gasket, throttle body gasket, or more likely a leak at one vacuum lines or the pcv hose coming off the intake manifold. That's extra air the ecu can't account for and the throttle plate and iacv can't stop from coming in. Or maybe the throttle cable is sticking slightly, you can check that easily by just trying to physically close the throttle with your hand when the car's running.
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Nov 26, 2018 05:37
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Diagnostic help plz 2004 Forester X Really bad squeal when Cold. Using a stethoscope, it seems to be coming from the power steering pump. Goes away after warming engine up, but can be replicated when I turn the wheel at low speed or when stopped. Do I have to replace the whole PS pump? PS fluid is topped up and clean-ish.
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Nov 26, 2018 21:53
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Try a new belt or a bit more tension first?
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Nov 26, 2018 22:00
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I can give that a shot. Know of a good tutorial on belt replacement and tensioning?
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Nov 26, 2018 23:38
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It's pretty straightforward. The alternator is the tensioner, just make sure to loosen both bolts holding the alternator before you start turning the long adjuster bolt. Also make sure your p/s reservoir doesn't have bubbly/foamy fluid in it if the pump is making a growling or loud whirring type noise. If so the hose and clamps and o-ring on the pump fitting should be replaced.
jamal fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Nov 27, 2018 |
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Nov 27, 2018 02:14
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DrakeriderCa posted:I can give that a shot. Know of a good tutorial on belt replacement and tensioning? This video covers it pretty well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NAVA4oS3_mE It's pretty simple, just did mine a couple months ago and only took a few minutes. No more belt squeal and jerky steering when cold.
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Nov 27, 2018 02:21
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Cool, thanks guys. I'll try the belt first!
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Nov 27, 2018 04:50
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BH Legacy EJ251, w 4eat. Wife says when it's cold and you put it in drive and keep your foot on the brake there is a terrible vibration. Somewhat smooths out when getting warm, and isnt that noticeable when driving. Also when you pop it into neutral the vibration in the car stops. The nasioc/legacygt forums have described this as a dying injector, but that seems crazy to me, any thoughts?I would have assumed it was something with the trans (bad valve body). Car has 180,000 miles on it. It has had maintenance done it's whole life.
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Nov 28, 2018 07:11
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:BH Legacy EJ251, w 4eat. Wife says when it's cold and you put it in drive and keep your foot on the brake there is a terrible vibration. Somewhat smooths out when getting warm, and isnt that noticeable when driving. Also when you pop it into neutral the vibration in the car stops. Firstly, check transmission oil level. My guess here is more torque converter related. And LOL an injector? HAHAHAHAHA
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Nov 28, 2018 08:27
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:BH Legacy EJ251, w 4eat. Wife says when it's cold and you put it in drive and keep your foot on the brake there is a terrible vibration. Somewhat smooths out when getting warm, and isnt that noticeable when driving. Also when you pop it into neutral the vibration in the car stops. Driveshafts. Most aftermarket front driveshafts cause exactly this due to the design and quality of the CVs. Find a decent rebuilt genuine shaft and it will probably fix it.
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Nov 28, 2018 11:12
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ChunksNensja posted:Driveshafts. Most aftermarket front driveshafts cause exactly this due to the design and quality of the CVs. Find a decent rebuilt genuine shaft and it will probably fix it. My bets on this. You can quasi confirm by crawling forward slowly and finding a wheel orientation where the vibration stops, in my case it did that although it's not really a definitive test. Inspect your shafts and verify your CV boots are intact, again not definitive since it can do that behavior with perfect CV boots but if they're they're torn it's another reason to just get replacements.
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Nov 28, 2018 13:02
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ChunksNensja posted:Driveshafts. Most aftermarket front driveshafts cause exactly this due to the design and quality of the CVs. Find a decent rebuilt genuine shaft and it will probably fix it. My wife's did this after the shop used lovely ones on replacement. Fixed with better ones afterwards.
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Nov 28, 2018 14:43
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CT where do you and your subaru friends get parts from?
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Nov 29, 2018 06:45
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I know a guy...
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Nov 29, 2018 07:13
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jamal posted:I know a guy... Hows your shipping to Brisbane though?
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Nov 29, 2018 07:24
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 14:29 |
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underage at the vape shop posted:CT where do you and your subaru friends get parts from? Various places. Rising Sun Subaru is right near you for one. BCW (Mechanical Stig) is another. I also have a stockpile and we have motorsport pricing (Better than trade!) at Subaru. What in particular do you need?
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Nov 29, 2018 07:31
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