|
Sell the other [non-miata] car, duh.
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2018 14:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 13:54 |
|
|
I wish I lived somewhere that had great weather year-round where I could just have a Miata (or motorcycle) and no other "practical" ( ) vehicle. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2018 20:47
|
|
|
Suburban Dad posted:That car probably also needs a timing belt. None of those things you mentioned maintenance wise are expensive. But the top and good coils (not what he has, IMO) are $$$. If you really wanted those particular mods then buy it and sell yours. Phone posted:the fact that he's listing $200 tires that are halfway through their usable lifecycle as a "1000 value", the harnesses with OEM seats, zero shots of the engine bay, plus all of the timing belt and general maintenance that will have to be inevitably done... with a price tag of $5600? You'll both be delighted to hear that I bought the car. Although I was able to talk the PO down a fair bit, I will still concede that I not a smart man. I now own two Miatas of questionable condition. Nothing like diving in head first right? Welcome to this train wreck. I'm having a blast with these cars while trying to absorb as much information on miata.net about them as possible. I haven't had time to really scrutinize the car very well, as far as I can tell though the car is straight other than needing the fluids changed and CAS O-ring replaced. We'll see how deep the hole I've dug is once my fluids come in. Now I've gotta figure out what to do with the other Miata in my driveway. All the necessary maintenance items come out to ~$600 on Moss Miata. I'm sure I could get the cost lower if I shopped around. Still not sure it's worth all the effort to make selling the car easier. I should probably just re-list the car as is. Here's an engine shot: 
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2018 06:31
|
|
|
that radiator is a ticking timebomb
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2018 07:42
|
|
|
Nice hot air intake
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2018 09:49
|
|
|
Paint the intake black so at least it looks okay. At best it's not hurting power, but it looks really bad with the rest of the engine bay. (Or find a stock one from a junkyard, depending on the junkyards inventory in your area)
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2018 13:00
|
|
|
In all seriousness do not use race harnesses with OEM seats in a Miata. The straps will not stay on your shoulders properly. Use the 3 points until you have at least a race seat and HANS.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2018 16:27
|
|
|
blk posted:I really miss my Miata. Going to look at this tomorrow: https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/d/1993-mazda-miata-mx-5-97k/6754846183.html gooninawell.txt
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2018 16:45
|
|
|
Will running 18s on my '06 NC be doable? The ms6 is making a rear end clunk and I I dont want to dip into the house money so soon. So the solution is to snap the NC interior back together and toss the winters on it for a few weeks. Just until I can stack some more OT.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2018 09:09
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:gooninawell.txt So it wasn't just me thinking that. Goon 1: Hey guise! I think this car is neat, should I buy? Goon 2: No, it's too much Goon 3: Well thought out post with reasons why it's too much and things to fix and reasons to stay away Goon 1: Hey guise! I bought this car despite all advice saying I should pass on it! I will now proceed to spend the car's value fixing all the issues and come here and cry about it. SA:  E: the above post applies to me as well.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2018 14:11
|
|
|
Diametunim posted:You'll both be delighted to hear that I bought the car. Grats? Not sure where you're at but I've always found this time of year awful to sell cars unless it's a winter beater. I wouldn't drop $600 on a car I intended on selling, though. Rhyno posted:Will running 18s on my '06 NC be doable? Nice  post. Yes, 18s will fit I'm sure but you haven't listed actual tire size, wheel offset or anything. Are you planning to swap the wheels from the MS6 to it?
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2018 14:56
|
|
|
Possibly. Depends on what the problem with the ms6 is. I dont want to drop money on fixing a car this month so a wheel swap is my best bet. 215/45-18 on the wheels I'd be swapping on. 18x7 +55 offset Edit: Offset and bolt pattern is the same. Guess I'll find out if I rub too bad! Rhyno fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Nov 26, 2018 |
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2018 15:47
|
|
|
BloodBag posted:So it wasn't just me thinking that. lmao this is why blk posted:I could disable the passenger airbag and put my kid up front while he's still rear-facing (another 2-3 years). Jury's still out how safe it'd be once he's forward facing/in a booster, I need to do more research. If he'd be safe enough, I could renounce women altogether, sell the Saabaru and make the NC2 my only vehicle, practicality be damned.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2018 18:20
|
|
|
Phone posted:that radiator is a ticking timebomb Suburban Dad posted:Grats? Not sure where you're at but I've always found this time of year awful to sell cars unless it's a winter beater. I wouldn't drop $600 on a car I intended on selling, though. FatCow posted:In all seriousness do not use race harnesses with OEM seats in a Miata. The straps will not stay on your shoulders properly. Use the 3 points until you have at least a race seat and HANS. No worries, I know the current setup isn't safe so I'm using the 3 points. The PO did provide me with a Planted seat bracket that was in the car at some point. Diametunim fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Nov 28, 2018 |
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2018 04:26
|
|
|
Diametunim posted:So I've read. I'll make sure to watch for cracks. If it goes, it goes. I understand the AEM intake isn't really doing anything for the car but is it worth swapping intakes between the cars? the other 99 in my driveway has the stock intake on it. The one you have will just make more noise and bring in hotter air.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2018 14:55
|
|
|
What do I say to the mechanics who put in new brake pads and rotors in April 2017 and fails me for inspection November 2018 because of rusted rear rotors
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2018 00:12
|
|
|
ethanol posted:What do I say to the mechanics who put in new brake pads and rotors in April 2017 and fails me for inspection November 2018 because of rusted rear rotors "You have to manually adjust the rear brakes in a Miata, you dickheads." I'm assuming your handbrake doesn't work either? If it does, go do a few hard stops to clean the rust off.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2018 00:20
|
|
|
The hand brake works...
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2018 01:01
|
|
|
ethanol posted:The hand brake works... In that case I'm over my head without seeing your car. I know from experience that many generic shops don't use the adjuster in the rear brakes because it's well hidden, but that should lead to the handbrake pulling all the way to the stop and barely engaging. If all else fails you could probably drive 20 feet with the handbrake on to scrape the rust off the rotors and pass inspection, but that won't fix the problem of only your front brakes doing any work during regular driving.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2018 02:08
|
|
|
So basically I’m out the cost of the brakes and I need to either do the brakes myself or find the only good mechanic in my state (none) They want to just slap on new rotors and of course those will just rust too I mean I’ll try to engage the parking brake and scrap it off first
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2018 02:11
|
|
|
Paint the rusty rotor silver, problem solved.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2018 02:30
|
|
|
.
puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Jan 4, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2018 02:36
|
|
|
ethanol posted:So basically I’m out the cost of the brakes and I need to either do the brakes myself or find the only good mechanic in my state (none) Don't go to these guys, they're criminals. All rotors* rust constantly, but it should get scraped off as you drive. It's a semi common scam to tell people they need to replace their rusty rotors, even though they will normally clean themselves. The usual reasons to have visibly rusty rotors:
The only thing to worry about on that list is the last one. Everything else can be solved with some spirited driving to get the rears to participate since they do minimal work in relaxed braking. *Except ludicrously expensive ones for supercars Edit: puberty worked me over posted:Does the hand brake manage to engage the caliper piston in a way that fluid pressure from the pedal would not? They're both compressing the caliper piston (one mechanically and one hydraulically) on to the rotor are they not? Close enough to the same thing. Pulling the handbrake (partially!) isolates the rears though. No need to engage the fronts and the rears, especially if some dickhead might have just used a c-clamp to force the piston back into the caliper as is done on cars without parking disk brakes since the brakes then won't adjust themselves back out properly (assuming the calipers don't blow their seals right then and there), which would make the rears too weak to ever engage outside of racing. Cat Hatter fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Dec 1, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2018 03:04
|
|
|
The shop I had replace my rear pads forced the piston in with aC-clamp so I had to replace the calipers the next time, so there's that. Maybe your guys also hosed up the self adjusting mechanism inside the piston, so it works if you pull the handbrake really far, but the piston won't move close enough to the pads for it to engage during normal driving with hydraulics. I'd second just driving with the handbrake on for a bit to clear off the rust and pass the inspection for now. Unless they also test the effectiveness of the brakes, which they do here... mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 11:07 on Dec 1, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2018 11:05
|
|
|
mobby_6kl posted:The shop I had replace my rear pads forced the piston in with aC-clamp so I had to replace the calipers the next time, so there's that. Lucky. I went out to my car a few days after I bought it and all the brake fluid was in a puddle under the car. Replaced that caliper and a week later I parked the car, grabbed a pizza, and when I went to leave the brake pedal hit the floor because the other side was now leaking.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2018 17:02
|
|
|
Hey guys thanks for all the help. I drove around braking extremely hard and occasionally with the ebrake on. The range of the pedal kept changing. At one point after a squealing stop my pedal became almost entirely slack. I could then hear rust scraping off the backs. A few pumps and I got pressure back. I drove back to the shop with clean and HOT rear rotors... and they passed it. The range of the ebrake handle has also moved, but if I pull it it seems to slacken up again up the next pull. I dunno if my brakes are actually adjusting correctly but at least that inspection fee wasn’t wasted. This all seems like either a sticky caliper or I'm adjusting my brakes correctly for the first time maybe having braked hard enough. I'm thinking it's the second because a sticky caliper should only be one brake? Both brakes were rusty and are now cleaning off Also this is a 2008.. wouldn’t a nc have self adjusting rears? Hopefully i didnt blow the line completely haha ethanol fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Dec 1, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2018 18:26
|
|
|
What’s the proper way to move the piston back into the calipers?
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2018 20:33
|
|
|
.
puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Jan 4, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2018 21:01
|
|
|
ethanol posted:Also this is a 2008.. wouldn’t a nc have self adjusting rears? When I did my 2011's brakes, I didn't mess with any adjustment and didn't have any problems like you're describing. So I guess they're self-adjusting? Or maybe I got lucky? Sorry, I'm no mechanic.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2018 21:30
|
|
|
Also the easiest way to reset your ebrake after is pull ebrake to 6 clicks then tighten the caliper hex bolt till the wheels stop turning..
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2018 02:15
|
|
|
Anyone know if the cost of ownership of a Fiata is noticeably higher than that of a Miata ND? Looking at getting a used 2016-18 model of either the Fiat 124 Spider Lusso or the Mazda MX-5 soft-top GT in automatic. My wife and I will probably swap DDing the car but that's only about 5-7k miles per year.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2018 02:28
|
|
|
Mandalay posted:Anyone know if the cost of ownership of a Fiata is noticeably higher than that of a Miata ND? I've owned one for two years and it has cost me nothing, beyond oil and gas. It's been a terrific car. Edit: I guess I can add a bit to that. I know of one problem that is reasonably common. The thermostat is a Mazda unit and sometimes has trouble talking to the FIAT ECU. This results in it maintaining too low of an engine temperature which sets a CEL. The fix is replacing the thermostat and/or reflashing the ECU. It's handled under warranty, so it's not costing anyone anything. I have not had that problem, myself. Other poo poo I see people complaining about are mostly due to the mods they're making screwing up sensor data and that's their own drat fault. Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Dec 12, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2018 02:55
|
|
|
How bad is the gas though? Like shredded wheat levels or black bean nacho levels?
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2018 05:50
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:How bad is the gas though? Like shredded wheat levels or black bean nacho levels? Broccoli and onion soup
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2018 18:44
|
|
|
I'm in the middle of rebuilding the shifter bushings and boots. Anyone have tips for removing the two locator pins in the turret housing, should I just whack away with a hammer and punch until one comes lose? If I can't push a pin lose would separating the upper and lower turret housings to get better access to the pins be a good idea? e: These pins are the worst. I've tried using several punches and the vice grip/socket method to press these pins out and I can't get them to budge. I'm hoping some PB Blaster overnight will free these bastards up. e2: These loving dowel pins  . I'm about to take the upper turret housing to a machine shop. Hopefully somebody can press these bastards out.
Diametunim fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Dec 20, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2018 14:51
|
|
|
Yesterday, I had the little Miata out in the snow... ...ever so briefly. It was just in order to turn it around and wrangle it at an angle into the workshop, to get to pulling the engine.  Me+brother spent a few hours unbolting and removing all the things. I'm pulling the engine with the trans, and was fearing the PPF bolts. While the big one one on the diff was very hard to move, they all came out nicely, as did pretty much everything else. Only things that didn't were one of the bolts for the exhaust manifold heat shield that got rounded off and a bolt for the hood prop that broke (which I then realized didn't have to come out as I could just remove the prop from the bracket). I think it's just about ready to come out. It's parked an hours drive from where I live, and next time I'll return with a hoist and a pickup truck and hopefully get everything out. All that I know is left to remove is the fuel line (I lacked the appropriate tool for those clips) and some wiring. I know I haven't removed all the engine grounds and alternator wiring, and I guess there's still some cables and hoses attached in the area under the intake manifold that are very hard to get to. In all, it's pretty exciting, and so far worked better than I had expected.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2018 09:54
|
|
|
Can I get a recommendation on 08 NC which brand or where to buy rear brake rotors and pads? I'm going to attempt my first brake job on this car
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2018 19:20
|
|
|
What do you plan to do with your car? Street driving? Autocross? Track days?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2018 23:26
|
|
|
mariooncrack posted:What do you plan to do with your car? Street driving? Autocross? Track days? Street and lots of salt
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 06:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 13:54 |
|
|
Rock Auto. Most centric brand stuff is decent for cheap rotors. Pads choose based on how much dust, noise, and stopping power you want. Ceramics are low dust and noise, and wear rotors less generally. They don't have the feel or stopping power of semi metallics though. That's kinda how it goes as you increase friction coefficient/material up to performance street or track pads which dust like crazy, are noisy but stop you much faster and can do so repeatedly. Good ceramics are fine for most but it's a sports car so choose based on how you like to drive. ...And it's the rear so it won't matter much anyway. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 14:23
|
|