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Yeah, it's a CVT. I do tons of highway driving and am using 0w20 synthetic. I guess I'll just keep going til I get to 20-30% and just pay attention to the maintenance minder.Deteriorata posted:I looked at the OM and the section on the MM tells you how it works. It monitors mileage and pops up codes now and then that you have to decode to determine what needs to be done. Thanks, although I was familiar already with the maintenance minder. I had been hoping I just missed the section where the manual listed recommended maintenance frequency (since that's what most people say to consult), but I guess it's just not there.
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Nov 27, 2018 17:14
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I guess when you think about it, the fixed mileage recommendations are based on the worst case scenario for your driving: they have to give a suitable interval assuming that you rev the tits off it from cold, for short journeys, every day, with 5 fat people in the car. So, the monitor recommendation is going to be much longer than that if you are a kinder driver. I know for my car, it wants to keep the oil going for much longer than I would guess it would because my driving style/journey type are pretty much the idea for engine longevity.
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Nov 27, 2018 17:16
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I think someone has asked before, and I probably even answered no, but there is not a lighting thread in AI is there? I'm pissed. I picked up a set of HIR bulbs. 9012s if I'm not mistaken (low beam bulbs). They were made by VOSLA. Those bitches lasted less than a year. One burned out a few weeks ago, the other a few days ago. Thats as bad as the Slyvania Silverstars I bought at Canadian Tire years ago, but at least those ones were cheap, and I didn't have to wait a week for shipping. The set I had before that were the Toshibas, and before that, Phillips. They all lasted for a couple years before burning out. I turn my full headlighting system on when I'm driving, so yeah I get it, more run time means that they're going to burn out sooner. I'm only on my second set of 9011s in like 9 years. the DRLS in my car are the highbeams burning low intensity. Has anyone else had problems with those bulbs? I didn't touch the glass, with my bare hands, I was wearing Nitrile gloves when I installed them, and I was careful as gently caress to not let the glass touch anything else when installing.
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Nov 29, 2018 12:30
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Would be nice to have a lighting thread. While 100% against the slightest possibility of blinding oncoming traffic, I would also be very interested if there actually are any LED lights that work in halogen projectors without being an rear end in a top hat / drawing attention / looking dumb. Mainly because they should last much longer at the same or slightly better output.
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Nov 29, 2018 12:58
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^ I've seen assemblies that are designed to fit inside of a halogen reflector and secure via a threaded stud that sticks back through the hole for the bulb (requires opening the headlights to install), but short of some technological breakthrough you're never going to be able to make LEDs mimic the light pattern of a halogen filament, and modern halogen headlights are very specifically designed around the filament of the bulb they're intended to use. wesleywillis posted:I think someone has asked before, and I probably even answered no, but there is not a lighting thread in AI is there? For starters I'd suspect any bulb coming from a no-name manufacturer. In addition, HIR increases light output by reflecting infrared radiation back onto the filament - making it hotter and therefore brighter - but at the expense of bulb lifespan, especially as compared with halogens that are designed to have exceedingly long lives. Geoj fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Nov 29, 2018 |
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Nov 29, 2018 15:40
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MrOnBicycle posted:Would be nice to have a lighting thread. While 100% against the slightest possibility of blinding oncoming traffic, I would also be very interested if there actually are any LED lights that work in halogen projectors without being an rear end in a top hat / drawing attention / looking dumb. Mainly because they should last much longer at the same or slightly better output. Projectors would probably do a better job of controlling scatter than reflectors, but as Geoj said the light pattern coming off a filament is really hard to replicate with LEDs while maintaining useful brightness levels in a formfactor that can fit in the same places. The right bulb for halogen filament optics is a halogen filament, end of story. It seems plausible to me though that a halogen projector could also be easier to remove and replace with a xenon or LED projector compared to a similar retrofit job on a reflector assembly. So far I think the most promising design to actually be able to achieve plug-and-play status involves a filament-shaped phosphor tube excited by a laser module. You'd mount the laser source elsewhere and feed the energy to the "bulb" over a fiber optic cable, which also solves the heat issue that plagues current LED conversion bulbs. I haven't seen any movement towards a product from that group in years though so it's not clear if the idea has died off or not.
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Nov 29, 2018 16:30
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I'm planning on replacing the gas pedal assembly in my 2002 VW Golf tdi. There is no cable, the gas pedal has a potentiometer at the top of it that is wired to the ECU. Will I have to calibrate the new pedal, or is it simply plug and play? I've read on some tdi forums that there's a calibration procedure that's something like: accessories on -> pedal to the floor for five seconds -> ignition off But I can't find any confirmation that this really works. I've also read about a vag-com 'adaption' procedure to calibrate a new pedal, but I think that's on gas cars that have throttle bodies. The part is just under $200 here, and shops want a few hours labour (which also makes me think there's a calibration procedure, since I was able to take the pedal out in twenty minutes), so if I can do this myself, it would be awesome. Thanks!!
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Nov 29, 2018 16:35
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Apartment livers: where do you work on your cars? Should I pack up my tools and drive to the local O’Reilly and set up in the parking lot? At my old place, there was room for me to work in my spot, but not anymore. I’m about to replace a taillight assembly and I don’t want to get booted and have to drive around with it missing while I find a new spot.
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Nov 30, 2018 02:31
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I can't imagine anyone giving you poo poo for fixing a light. As long as you aren't doing anything that will leave fluids on the ground or an immobile vehicle in the lot... Real answer, I would do work in my parents' garage. 150 miles away... 
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Nov 30, 2018 03:13
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MrOnBicycle posted:Would be nice to have a lighting thread. While 100% against the slightest possibility of blinding oncoming traffic, I would also be very interested if there actually are any LED lights that work in halogen projectors without being an rear end in a top hat / drawing attention / looking dumb. Mainly because they should last much longer at the same or slightly better output. There is nothing at all that is even close to DOT legal on this front, and it's near 100% likely there never will be because the barrier to entry (not only development but testing) is high and the market is very small (think about doing this for all of the different light housing out there......how many of each would you realistically be able to sell?).
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Nov 30, 2018 04:41
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Motronic posted:There is nothing at all that is even close to DOT legal on this front, and it's near 100% likely there never will be because the barrier to entry (not only development but testing) is high and the market is very small (think about doing this for all of the different light housing out there......how many of each would you realistically be able to sell?). Depends on the vehicle. There are dozens of options for the Wrangler, for example. I'll admit that's an outlier, and for most vehicles you're spot on. But there are others that would actually support a reasonable aftermarket.
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Nov 30, 2018 05:15
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Godholio posted:Depends on the vehicle. There are dozens of options for the Wrangler, for example. I'll admit that's an outlier, and for most vehicles you're spot on. But there are others that would actually support a reasonable aftermarket. The wrangler. You know, the same ones that fit on my 1985 Porsche. So yes, anything the looks like a 7" sealed beam is probably good to go. It's such an astonishingly small exception to this that I literally forgot I own these things.
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Nov 30, 2018 05:27
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Don't a lot of states have really draconian laws regarding headlight mods anyway
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Nov 30, 2018 05:45
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shovelbum posted:Don't a lot of states have really draconian laws regarding headlight mods anyway Yes, but they're rarely if ever enforced.
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Nov 30, 2018 05:47
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Geoj posted:Yes, but they're rarely if ever enforced. Seems like easy revenue to just ticket the gently caress out of anything with LED sealed beams though
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Nov 30, 2018 05:57
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The HVAC blower in my Mazda is noisily dying, would there be any good reason to spend $170 on an OEM one instead of $70 on an aftermarket version?
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Nov 30, 2018 07:53
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Wouldn't a sealed beam setup be the ideal use case for LEDs? Your product has to include the reflector anyway so you can just make it whatever works with your bulb and there's no way for the user to shove the wrong light in the wrong housing and blind everyone.
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Nov 30, 2018 08:49
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I've seen a lot of Jeep LED retrofits that are just as blinding, if not moreso, than dropping an HID into a halogen housing. There's plenty of lovely LED sealed beam retrofits that just throw light everywhere instead of focusing it.FBS posted:The HVAC blower in my Mazda is noisily dying, would there be any good reason to spend $170 on an OEM one instead of $70 on an aftermarket version? Depends - how hard is it to get to? If it's hard, go OEM (even if it's a used junkyard part), because most aftermarket ones won't last too long. Check Rockauto as well; they'll sometimes show who actually made the OEM part (under a different name). eBay is sometimes a safe bet for new-old-stock stuff too (pay close attention to feedback and how long the seller account has been active).
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Nov 30, 2018 08:52
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SaabKyle04 put Grote LEDs on his Jimmy that were of those sealed US type ones. He claimed them to be "fully DOT compliant and legal for all 5x7" inch systems" which I interpret as "not approved but won't raise a fuss because they would be if the law caught up" or something. Edit: Stupid question: Do suspension parts have a "best before date" for modern cars? Like if I found a 30k miles complete suspension that's from 2013, and probably have been sitting in a junkyard warehouse for a year or two. ~$400 for what's rebranded Koni FSD's. Including front springs. Or bad idea at that mileage? MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Nov 30, 2018 |
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Nov 30, 2018 09:06
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Motronic posted:There is nothing at all that is even close to DOT legal on this front, and it's near 100% likely there never will be because the barrier to entry (not only development but testing) is high and the market is very small (think about doing this for all of the different light housing out there......how many of each would you realistically be able to sell?). To add to this, a lot of vehicles with a good aftermarket demand will have someone custom fabricating lights using proper projector housings and hand fitting them to OE style enclosures. Still not technically DOT legal, but following the spirit of the law. They generally run $500+ for a pair and that's if the person doing it isn't trying to make a ton of money. The raw components to do it yourself are something like $300. These aren't hot sellers when most people are fine with the $80 garbage from Amazon.
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Nov 30, 2018 15:58
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FBS posted:The HVAC blower in my Mazda is noisily dying, would there be any good reason to spend $170 on an OEM one instead of $70 on an aftermarket version? The aftermarket one probably won't last as long. It depends on how long you intend to keep the car and how much trouble it is to replace it. I tend toward OEM parts just because I've been burned a bunch by cheap aftermarket parts that break in a couple years.
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Nov 30, 2018 16:14
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Deteriorata posted:The aftermarket one probably won't last as long. It depends on how long you intend to keep the car and how much trouble it is to replace it. Buy BWD parts with lifetime warranty and keep your receipts. Then your only cost is labor.
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Nov 30, 2018 21:18
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There's a shallow chip in my windshield that I just noticed, probably no bigger than my pinky fingernail. Can I get this filled in at any decent mechanic, or should I be looking for a place that specializes in auto glass? 2011 Ford Escape.
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Nov 30, 2018 22:46
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Most glass repair services will come to you, and sealing a chip takes all of 10 minutes.
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Nov 30, 2018 23:42
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Geoj posted:
I'd never heard of Vosla before I got these bulbs, but that doesn't mean poo poo. Just because I've never heard of it doesn't always mean they're some new fangled company. That being said, a quick goole search shows that they've been around for 70 some years. I guess though, that that doesn't necessarily mean they're any good. I know some poo poo about auto lighting (not tons though) and whatnot, but I thought the advantage of the HIR bulbs was increased light output while sacrificing very little life compared to all the mad sykk euro blue headlight hache eye dee lights or what ever that have (what I've heard referred to as) "over driven" filaments? My other sets of HIR low beams lasted a couple years or something, vs these at maybe 9-10 months.
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Dec 1, 2018 03:50
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Motronic posted:The wrangler. You know, the same ones that fit on my 1985 Porsche. Sorry buddy, let me update my spreadsheet that tracks what vehicles everybody in AI owns. gently caress off. I even said it was an obvious example, but it still isn't the only one out there with an aftermarket for lights. STR posted:I've seen a lot of Jeep LED retrofits that are just as blinding, if not moreso, than dropping an HID into a halogen housing. There's plenty of lovely LED sealed beam retrofits that just throw light everywhere instead of focusing it. Yeah, they range from "what the gently caress, this thing is an obvious fire hazard and can't aim lower than the average car's roofline" to "actually tested and capable of meeting the DOT requirements for headlights" when it comes to quality. Godholio fucked around with this message at 07:14 on Dec 1, 2018 |
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Dec 1, 2018 07:11
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MrOnBicycle posted:Stupid question: Do suspension parts have a "best before date" for modern cars? Like if I found a 30k miles complete suspension that's from 2013, and probably have been sitting in a junkyard warehouse for a year or two. ~$400 for what's rebranded Koni FSD's. Including front springs. They'd most likely be fine - they don't really have a shelf life, it's more miles and types of roads that wear them out. Bushings may be beginning to show some rot, but if they've been indoors that's a lot less likely. A set of shocks may sit on a shelf at a parts store or dealer for years.
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Dec 1, 2018 08:36
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C-Euro posted:There's a shallow chip in my windshield that I just noticed, probably no bigger than my pinky fingernail. Can I get this filled in at any decent mechanic, or should I be looking for a place that specializes in auto glass? 2011 Ford Escape. Check your insurance details but you might be covered for a free repair that shouldn't affect your claims
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Dec 1, 2018 14:13
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1982 Ford F100 4.9L (300) I6 Automatic Transmission 2wd, power assist brakes Truck is dying shortly after getting to operating temperature. Will drive fine but once the needle hits where it usually rests it loads up, stumbles and dies. Popping it into neutral and trying to keep it going has never worked. Starts right back up on 1st or second crank. May be more running time than temperature related as the old thermostat had failed open and was dying in the same rough areas. Fairly strong smell of gas on restart so I suspect something fuel related. Replaced thermostat two weeks ago. Spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor replaced ~3 months ago. Have a new distributor ready to go in at some point. Before the electrical replacements it would die idling for more than a few minutes then would die a couple minutes from the house but start right up. The thermostat seems to have extended the drive time by 10 or so minutes before it dies. This happens 9/10 of the time or better that we drive it but it only dies once then will run the rest of the day, assuming it doesn't sit for hours between, just fine. I've had it kill on the on-ramp, started right up then made a 500 mile trip without a hiccup. Another issue: Brake pedal intermittently not returning when pressed. Truck has vacuum assist brakes. Pedal returns fine when truck not running. This happens about 2/3 of the time we use it. Brakes feel fine otherwise and fluid level is good, last flushed a year ago. Seems likely the vacuum assist is failing. Havne't tried it without assist connected yet.
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Dec 1, 2018 14:31
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If i'm not mistaken there is a return spring in the master cylinder that should make the pedal come back up.
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Dec 1, 2018 15:17
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NitroSpazzz posted:1982 Ford F100 Sounds like a bad coil. A break in the wires will close when cold, then open up when it gets hot.
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Dec 1, 2018 15:55
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STR posted:They'd most likely be fine - they don't really have a shelf life, it's more miles and types of roads that wear them out. Bushings may be beginning to show some rot, but if they've been indoors that's a lot less likely. Roads are generally pretty good in Sweden. Bit of a "how long is a piece of string" question, but where would 30k miles rank on the worth it or not scale? Junkyard is rating them as "A", which is the second highest ranking behind being almost new parts. I've actually never had to replace suspension parts in a car, so don't have a good feel for how long they should last on modern cars.
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Dec 1, 2018 16:18
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wesleywillis posted:If i'm not mistaken there is a return spring in the master cylinder that should make the pedal come back up. Deteriorata posted:Sounds like a bad coil. A break in the wires will close when cold, then open up when it gets hot. I need to dig up my schematics check all the relays, there must be something that triggers or turns off once warm. Maybe something related to the cold start circuit or auto-choke.
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Dec 1, 2018 16:25
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STR posted:There's plenty of lovely LED sealed beam retrofits that just throw light everywhere instead of focusing it. A lot of them aren't DOT legal, so people shouldn't be looking at $60 7" sealed beams from amazon and saying "LEDs suck". Proper 7" sealed beam DOT legal LEDs cost real money. https://www.autoanything.com/lights/sylvania-zevo-led-sealed-beam-replacement-headlights
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Dec 1, 2018 16:43
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NitroSpazzz posted:That's what I was thinking but the fact it works fine without vacuum seems odd. I might rebuild master and booster since they're probably original This era of ford had an archaic electronic ignition system... make sure it's not overheating and doing something silly. Nthing coil/ballast too... Relays on a 80s Ford? surely you jest. the horn has one, doubt anything else does. Motronic posted:A lot of them aren't DOT legal, so people shouldn't be looking at $60 7" sealed beams from amazon and saying "LEDs suck". Proper 7" sealed beam DOT legal LEDs cost real money. https://www.autoanything.com/lights/sylvania-zevo-led-sealed-beam-replacement-headlights Trucklite cures all that ails your ancient round headlights.
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Dec 1, 2018 17:56
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NitroSpazzz posted:1982 Ford F100 Grab a new DuraSpark II box (you won't find the OEM one new, but you can find aftermarket ones as an ignition control module). IIRC there's even a place to mount a spare (at least, my 1980 had a factory location to mount a spare). They fail in really weird ways. Also, as others said, check the wiring to the coil. MrOnBicycle posted:Roads are generally pretty good in Sweden. Bit of a "how long is a piece of string" question, but where would 30k miles rank on the worth it or not scale? Junkyard is rating them as "A", which is the second highest ranking behind being almost new parts. I've actually never had to replace suspension parts in a car, so don't have a good feel for how long they should last on modern cars. Depending on the car, shock/strut quality, roads, and if the car was used for towing, anywhere from 50-150k. How much would these parts run you new? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Dec 1, 2018 |
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Dec 1, 2018 20:24
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Does anyone use a dashcam? I'm thinking about getting my wife one for Christmas. Does it obstruct too much of the windshield? Do you need to have messy cords running around? Do you actually find it useful?
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Dec 1, 2018 22:39
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The Grey posted:Does anyone use a dashcam? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3597215 An entire thread about them. Yes I use one I hide it behind the mirror and cannot see it all all when driving. Cable runs around the windscreen and only dangles from the glovebox to the socket because I am lazy. Used it to report a dangerous driver. Have a friend who lost an insurance case because he didn't have one.
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Dec 1, 2018 23:00
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spog posted:https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3597215 Thanks... don't know how I missed that tread.
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Dec 1, 2018 23:04
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cursedshitbox posted:This era of ford had an archaic electronic ignition system... make sure it's not overheating and doing something silly. Nthing coil/ballast too... Also JW Speaker.
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Dec 1, 2018 23:14
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