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The first R means it's a boxer motor and the second R means it's naked. God, don't you know anything about Germany?
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Dec 1, 2018 04:56
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pokie posted:Cool, thanks for all the teachings, folks. I like to trail the brakes or be off the gas until I can see the exit of the corner on the street. Once I know I'm clear, transition to maintenance throttle, then power out as I lift the bike up. Ping me, let's go for a ride sometime, I can walk you through it over the intercoms.
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Dec 1, 2018 23:00
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The clutch on my KTM 990 SMT has no pressure so I’m gonna bleed it today. Cap on the master says Magura mineral oil. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BGDKWHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Z1WaCbG3ZD3VR Calls for a 10w oil, I have this poo poo in my garage. Am I about to wreck anything?
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Dec 1, 2018 23:42
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If you need the bike, I'd do it and order the proper stuff and flush it with it when you get it. If you don't need the bike, who knows what weird additive package Magura uses, safest to just use the OEM stuff. KTM clutch cylinders are so finicky for so many people, I've never had a problem using the OEM stuff, so I tend towards superstition on it.
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Dec 2, 2018 00:36
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Yeah I hear the slave cylinder especially on this version of the LC8 is kind of terrible. Well, it’s in, and we’ll see what happens. I’m pretty sure I already have greater issues than just “low fluid.”
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Dec 2, 2018 02:25
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Z3n posted:If you need the bike, I'd do it and order the proper stuff and flush it with it when you get it. If you don't need the bike, who knows what weird additive package Magura uses, safest to just use the OEM stuff. KTM clutch cylinders are so finicky for so many people, I've never had a problem using the OEM stuff, so I tend towards superstition on it. Why would they not use brake fluid like every other hydraulic clutch I've seen?
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Dec 2, 2018 13:46
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Well I hosed up installing the Optimate. Got the seat off, lined the new cable up - and then the terminal bolt fell off the screwdriver into the bowels of the undertray. I could see it initially but trying to get at it made it scamper further in. Looks to me like the ABS gubbins is all in there and there are warning stickers saying not to unscrew bits and pieces. gently caress My thought is to undo the undertray and see if I can get it from underneath, I can't find a full service manual for this bike online but from these instructions for an accessory cable you have to take off all the rear bodywork to get at it. http://powersports.honda.com/documentum/MW01/08E70-MKF-D40.pdf Any advice apart from the obligatory hearty laughter? Any idea where I might find a service manual? (This is all complicated by not being able to stand on both legs so I am loving hopping everywhere)
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Dec 2, 2018 14:16
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knox_harrington posted:Well I hosed up installing the Optimate. Got the seat off, lined the new cable up - and then the terminal bolt fell off the screwdriver into the bowels of the undertray. I could see it initially but trying to get at it made it scamper further in. Looks to me like the ABS gubbins is all in there and there are warning stickers saying not to unscrew bits and pieces. gently caress This and a wire coat hanger are your friends here.
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Dec 2, 2018 14:43
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goddamnedtwisto posted:This and a wire coat hanger are your friends here. That is awesome, thanks. [agh of course it's 4x as expensive in Switzerland. Oh well]
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Dec 2, 2018 15:04
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I've had some bolts that are just lost forever once they fell deep into the bodywork, but I recovered a few with a telescoping magnetic pickup tool. They have some that have lights, but I'd probably get the thinnest one you can find. here's an example
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Dec 2, 2018 16:28
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Next time you lose a bolt or part in some small crevasse, just remind yourself “at least I’m not Jim Silly-Balls, who once lost a piston circlip down inside the crankcase of an engine because he was young, dumb, and his crankcase was not full of rags like it should be”
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Dec 2, 2018 17:51
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Ta-daa Crutches: check. Bike in pieces: check. All back together now, about 3 hours for a 10 minute job. I took all the rear plastics off, couldn't get at it, then found an access panel that opened onto a place I could get my coat hanger into. Magic  That sounds like a nightmare Jim Silly-Balls! Did you get it back?
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Dec 2, 2018 18:33
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MomJeans420 posted:
Yes this place rules very hard, go there.
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Dec 2, 2018 21:40
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So my Harley Sportster '72 is a loving nightmare to try and get the battery out of. I ordered this: http://www.oxfordproducts.com/motorcycle/brands/oxford/battery_care_and_power_accessories/oximiser_888_anniversary_edition_uk/ and some croc clips. The only problem is, it's seemingly a loving nightmare to get the battery out or to even get access to the negative terminal on the battery. I've previously charged it up before with a smart charger by connecting positive > positive and negative > the metal. My question is, if I hook the above item up the same way, will it still work as intended? Will it be able to read the state of the battery and automatically adjust the charge level and all that other fun stuff it claims on the box?
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Dec 3, 2018 19:18
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Yoshimo posted:So my Harley Sportster '72 is a loving nightmare to try and get the battery out of. I ordered this: Nope, because the measurements it uses for the conditioning are based on the internal resistance of the battery, running it through the frame and earth strap are going to gently caress that over. If you can easily access the earth strap itself that *might* do the trick but possibly/probably not.
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Dec 3, 2018 19:25
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Could you wire up an SAE connector and charge it through that? I mean, you'd still have to get access to the terminals, but at least you'd only need to do it once. Supposed to be able to jump through SAE connectors as well. Note: This may be dumb advice as I am a dumb person. Although, as a previous owner of a g650gs I know all about having to go through way to much effort to access the battery.
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Dec 3, 2018 21:55
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knox_harrington posted:
Yes, thankfully the bike in question was my Kawasaki KDX 80, and so was a two stroke with a sealed combustion chamber. At the advice of my local mechanic, I poured enough oil into the crankcase to touch the bottom of the crankshaft, then just spun the motor. Eventually the circlip got pulled up in the oil that the crankshaft was bringing with it and showed up on top of the crank About the third time that happened I managed to snag it 
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Dec 3, 2018 22:32
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Nope,
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Dec 3, 2018 23:06
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Lexorin posted:Could you wire up an SAE connector and charge it through that? I mean, you'd still have to get access to the terminals, but at least you'd only need to do it once. Supposed to be able to jump through SAE connectors as well. I was going to suggest this as well. I thought Harley dealers installed this guy as part of delivery prep.
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Dec 4, 2018 01:31
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Why would they not use brake fluid like every other hydraulic clutch I've seen? Who the gently caress knows. Probably so they can sell expensive mineral oil.
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Dec 4, 2018 05:46
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Yoshimo posted:So my Harley Sportster '72 is a loving nightmare to try and get the battery out of. I ordered this: Is your model different from this? https://www.hdforums.com/how-tos/a/harley-davidson-sportster-how-to-replace-battery-412756 Doesn't seem all that bad for access to stick a cable on.
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Dec 4, 2018 07:42
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:What makes you say this? I've often hooked up smart chargers to bikes without accessible negative terminals by just clipping alligators to the frame. Only time I've seen issues is when there weren't clean metal places to clip to. Well you cropped out the reason i said this, which is more or less a direct quote from the Optimate people.
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Dec 4, 2018 08:32
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Yeah I read it but from the range of experience I've had with many different smart chargers it doesn't seem to be a legitimate reason, sounds more like Optimate covering their rear end. Understandable if there's no clean metal on the bike, which is common with modern bikes, but if you can find something to clip onto it's fine. It's not like the frame/engine of a motorcycle conducts electricity poorly.
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Dec 4, 2018 19:08
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Sooo I'm having to work on a late 80's BMW K75 that decided to catch on fire. I really, really hate working on german bikes and generally try to avoid them but I got roped into this one. Thus far it hasn't been too painful, but the pointlessly complex electrical system (why can a japanese bike have a flasher relay with literally two terminals yet this thing needs a control module with like 18 pins?) is triggering PTSD from my old life fooling around with sharknose BMW's; everything looks the same, almost like they built a bike out of spare car parts. It also has an ECU that only runs the fuel side of the efi, the spark is independently controlled by a CDI-like device and they communicate in a limited way. Anyone reading this who's worked on an L-jetronic E23/24/28/30: yup. Anyone reading this who thinks old german cars are cool: yes they are but making a bike out of one was and still is a terrible idea. Anywho, the guy's problem is he came home, turned the bike off...and it kept running. Eventually he found a way to stall the thing and at that point the battery cables, starter wiring and starter relay all started to burn. The starter is destroyed on the inside, it was quite possibly running continuously while he was riding. I've replaced the relay, repaired all of the above ('luckily' the harness as a whole doesn't appear damaged so he doesn't 'need' a whole new bike) and it seems to operate normally. I'm waiting for a starter to turn up to actually test for cranking, but meantime I want to make some headway on the original problem so it doesn't just burst into flame when I finally get it running. The whole starting system is pretty self-contained except for one wire that runs from the starter to the 'load shedding relay':  So my questions are: What the crikey gently caress is a load shedding relay? I'm guessing it's to cut power to the headlights etc so the battery has less work to do when you're cranking? Why a weaksauce 750CC triple with a battery the size of my head needs this, I don't know (yes I do the answer is germans). For some reason, rather than running this relay off the starter relay switching circuit (or just doing it in a completely different, less stupi-ahahahahaha gently caress off it's germans), they decided to run a wire all the way down to the starter lug to directly operate the relay whenever the starter gets power. Which brings me to my second question: I am getting 12V coming out of that wire regardless of kill switch position or anything else, the only time it goes dead is when the ignition switch is turned off. Looking at the diagram it looks as if the black wire is intended to get power from the starter when cranking, trigger the LS relay, flow up the green wire, through the kill switch and do...something...? But then it also looks like it's supposed to get power when the ignition is on, which is what I'm getting, but wouldn't that mean the starter would just be trying to crank constantly through a 1mm wire? It just makes no sense and I don't understand, please help. All of this reeks of the usual pointless over-engineering and if I can just disable it all I'd prefer to do that. Maybe someone can have a look at the diagram and explain to me how it's meant to work? Highlighted for the reading impaired: 
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Dec 8, 2018 21:13
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Slavvy posted:Sooo I'm having to work on a late 80's BMW K75 that decided to catch on fire. I really, really hate working on german bikes and generally try to avoid them but I got roped into this one. Making some assumptions about old German motorcycle wiring diagram standards, it looks like Ign On and emergency cutout in Run likely puts a ground on the load shedding relay coil (you guessed right as to its purpose), and when the starter motor engages it provides power the coil to open the relay switch and shed the loads attached to it (looks like lights).
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Dec 8, 2018 21:40
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E: actually no, that still doesn't make any sense. If you follow the wire (not the one I've highlighted, the other one that comes from the kill switch) carefully from the kill switch you'll find it goes to the fuse box and ignition coils, so hitting kill switches off power to the coils and cdi, as well as the ignition barrel, as well as the LS relay. This makes sense because hitting kill literally switches off the entire bike as if you've turned the key off, and on the diagram you can clearly see kill switch set to off is open circuit. But it doesn't make sense, because that would mean the starter is constantly getting 12v through the LS wire so I'm back where I started. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Dec 8, 2018 |
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Dec 8, 2018 22:54
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Slavvy posted:
OK, right, so you've got power going to the through the kill switch to the ignition switch and load shed relay, so the starter supplies the ground to open it and shed the lighting loads. (I assumed the opposite because I'm not used to motorcycle wiring diagrams, and also good at making excuses! It's going to be one or the other!) Edit - you've got a high potential at one side of the relay coil, that just sits there until the starter gives it a ground (probably a switch inside or something) and the relay opens. Once the starter disengages, the ground is removed and the relay relaxes to closed and puts the lights back on. Finger Prince fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Dec 8, 2018 |
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Dec 8, 2018 23:28
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Nope, no way. The wire you're thinking of as the LS earth literally bolts to the same lug as the starter power wire, the starter is a totally ordinary bike starter with no extra bits etc. So if you hit the start button and the starter relay switches on, that wire will also get power. That's what's confusing me. None of this is normal for a bike, normal bikes are wired up in not-stupid ways 
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Dec 8, 2018 23:35
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I've worked on weird electrical poo poo on K bikes before and suspected the load shed relay and it always turned out to be something else. Never seen one catch fire though. I'm speculating but it might be something like the LS relay does actually get ground through the starter until the starter gets power and then the starter positive wire becomes positive and therefore effectively cuts ground to the LS. Dumb as it sounds, older BMWs and other bikes did things like that in some circumstances.
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Dec 9, 2018 01:11
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Ok I can kind of see that but then what, the starter just sits there constantly turning really slowly while the bike is running? Wouldn't the starter draw just immediately melt that wire and everything else? To clarify the LS relay wasn't melted or damaged at all, the wire going to the starter was destroyed and I'm trying to establish if there's a short or if the whole LS circuit is working normally because I still don't know what caused the original problem. So either that wire and circuit is the cause (starter trying to run through a tiny wire) and the actual starter circuit was collateral damage, or the problem was elsewhere and that wire only melted because it's physically strapped to the starter cable. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Dec 9, 2018 |
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Dec 9, 2018 01:30
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Slavvy posted:Ok I can kind of see that but then what, the starter just sits there constantly turning really slowly while the bike is running? Wouldn't the starter draw just immediately melt that wire and everything else? I'm having difficulty making sense of what the starter/cutout switch diagram is trying to convey, but it's possible, if you use a bit of imagination, that the power circuit for the load shed relay may only be closed while the start switch is being held in the start position. When you release it, it may open the circuit. But that's making some assumptions of what the balls and lines inside the boxes mean. Slavvy posted:To clarify the LS relay wasn't melted or damaged at all, the wire going to the starter was destroyed and I'm trying to establish if there's a short or if the whole LS circuit is working normally because I still don't know what caused the original problem. So either that wire and circuit is the cause (starter trying to run through a tiny wire) and the actual starter circuit was collateral damage, or the problem was elsewhere and that wire only melted because it's physically strapped to the starter cable. Based on that and nothing else, I'd suspect corrosion on the start relay or starter lug, slightly raising the resistance in the circuit, gets hot, heat causes more corrosion/resistance, wire gets hotter, etc, etc, with every start until eventually the starter relay and starter wire slags. Finger Prince fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Dec 9, 2018 |
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Dec 9, 2018 01:58
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Those bar and circle symbols are normal bike nomenclature, what the kill switch symbol shows is that it's open circuit when off, closed when on. We're talking about the kill switch here which is separate to the start button in an electrical sense despite being the same button. I can buy the bad contact leading to a vicious cycle theory except it doesn't explain why he couldn't switch the bike off, that's the part that's bugging me.
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Dec 9, 2018 02:17
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The main (big) starter wire was fried or the little LS one was fried? K bikes have a safety cutout on the starter so even if you hold the button down forever it'll disengage when the engine is over a certain RPM so that shouldn't be a problem. Unless the starter relay itself fused on, I've seen that on other bikes. When the guy said it wouldn't stop, did he mean it was really running or was the starter just cranking? Although that wouldn't explain the LS starter wire melting. Just FYI I looked at your mspaint of the wiring diagram and the way you referred to it and I think maybe you interpreted the wire from the kill switch to the LS as running through the kill switch to go to the LS. I don't think that's right, it's actually coming from the ignition switch and going to the LS, it just happens to splice in at the input side of the kill switch. Not sure if that's relevant.
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Dec 9, 2018 15:15
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Dumb question but are you supposed to tip your instructor if you do a private track day? My friend and I are doing a private lesson through a supermoto school, and the instructor is not the owner of the school. Also, this is in America so we tend to tip for more things than some of you guys in other countries do.
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Dec 10, 2018 20:23
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MomJeans420 posted:Dumb question but are you supposed to tip your instructor if you do a private track day? My friend and I are doing a private lesson through a supermoto school, and the instructor is not the owner of the school. Also, this is in America so we tend to tip for more things than some of you guys in other countries do. are you paying him already? Then no
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Dec 10, 2018 21:46
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Paying the school (they just choose a teacher for you), not him directly. I was going to assume the answer is no, but I'm not sure what protocol is here.
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Dec 10, 2018 22:46
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:The main (big) starter wire was fried or the little LS one was fried? K bikes have a safety cutout on the starter so even if you hold the button down forever it'll disengage when the engine is over a certain RPM so that shouldn't be a problem. Unless the starter relay itself fused on, I've seen that on other bikes. When the guy said it wouldn't stop, did he mean it was really running or was the starter just cranking? Although that wouldn't explain the LS starter wire melting. Both were fried but it looks like the main starter/battery cables were the ones that actually burst into flame, even the earth cable was completely melted, and the LS wire was just collateral damage. There's no safety cutout or any other kind of cleverness in this starter, it is 100% electrically identical to a normal japanese bike starter. Literally just an armature and a brush holder and a lug. The bike was definitely running, he couldn't switch it off. That's why I'm thinking it was back-feeding up the LS relay somehow but none of it really makes any sense. If the starter relay was stuck shut, it had un-stuck itself by the time I cut it open. Internally it didn't look particularly damaged in any way. I get what you mean about the wire, what I'm meaning is if you actually look at the diagram and follow the traces coming out of the kill switch, you can see the kill switch gets battery power first and then supplies it to the ignition barrel and LS relay when you set it to run. This gels with the fact that turning the kill to off kills the entire bike as if you've turned it off with the key, and it does appear like the LS relay loses it's earth when power comes back upstream from the starter lug. But that doesn't explain how the LS relay can earth through the starter without the starter trying to turn the entire time, that's the part I don't understand.
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Dec 10, 2018 23:52
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Slavvy posted:Both were fried but it looks like the main starter/battery cables were the ones that actually burst into flame, even the earth cable was completely melted, and the LS wire was just collateral damage. There's no safety cutout or any other kind of cleverness in this starter, it is 100% electrically identical to a normal japanese bike starter. Literally just an armature and a brush holder and a lug. quote:I get what you mean about the wire, what I'm meaning is if you actually look at the diagram and follow the traces coming out of the kill switch, you can see the kill switch gets battery power first and then supplies it to the ignition barrel and LS relay when you set it to run. This gels with the fact that turning the kill to off kills the entire bike as if you've turned it off with the key, and it does appear like the LS relay loses it's earth when power comes back upstream from the starter lug. But that doesn't explain how the LS relay can earth through the starter without the starter trying to turn the entire time, that's the part I don't understand. However now that I'm looking closer at the diagram, I'm noticing that the path doesn't go through any fuses before it hits the coils and spark unit. This seems implausible to me so I'm wondering if that diagram is wrong. Maybe my eyes aren't working but I've looked that circuit over like 5 times now and that's what I'm seeing.
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Dec 11, 2018 00:54
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MomJeans420 posted:Paying the school (they just choose a teacher for you), not him directly. I was going to assume the answer is no, but I'm not sure what protocol is here. Had a private instructor for a few hours. Paid through a business and tipped the instructor $20. It didn't seem like he expected it but it was appreciated.
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Dec 11, 2018 06:20
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| # ? May 16, 2024 16:48 |
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Down one tooth on the front sprocket means one link shorter on the chain, right? Is it that simple?
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Dec 18, 2018 19:16
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