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STR posted:Grab a new DuraSpark II box (you won't find the OEM one new, but you can find aftermarket ones as an ignition control module). IIRC there's even a place to mount a spare (at least, my 1980 had a factory location to mount a spare). They fail in really weird ways. Forgot Ford uses 'slide on' connectors for the coil so I can't use the spare I had from a past vehicle but have a coil, ICM and brake master cylinder on the way. Put in the new distributor, cleaned all the ICM harness connections and grounds. Timing is still a hair off we'll see if this does anything for the issue. May look more into Duraspark 2 or a aftermarket alternative for future use.
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Dec 2, 2018 17:39
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I have a 2012 Honda Fit Sport, and today I noticed that a part is missing from the rear passenger side door frame: Parts diagrams for the car have not been helpful, but I think it's one of those black stoppers (?) like the one below. Anybody out there know what I need to be looking for / what those are called?
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Dec 3, 2018 00:57
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It's just called a body plug afaik. You can get a plethora of them on eBay, probably at any hardware store too. Just get the right size.
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Dec 3, 2018 01:33
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My 2007 Dodge Charger with 114k miles on it had an issue today and I’m just trying to see what I’m looking at here, hopefully just the battery. So I put the key in the ignition, blow past the accessory and straight to start. Except it didn’t. Dashboard lights and interior lights would flash, CD player tries to eject whatever was in it, but it wouldn’t start. About five minutes later it started, but by then I’d abandoned my plan of going anywhere so I let it run for about five minutes and shut it off. Wouldn’t start again. But when I went to start it I did hear clicks coming from the hood. Dead battery?
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Dec 3, 2018 04:15
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Santheb posted:My 2007 Dodge Charger with 114k miles on it had an issue today and I’m just trying to see what I’m looking at here, hopefully just the battery. Nobody can tell you how hot garbage chryco electronics might behave in a low voltage situation, but the clicking indicates a weak/dead battery. This could be a cause or it could be a s symptom. You need a multimeter to test the voltage when it's sitting and running. If it's bad (under 12v) when sitting but 13.8+ when running it's just a bad battery. If you let that go long enough it will be a bad battery and a bad alternator. There are many other forks on the chart. So we can only guess without some actual measurements. If this scares you off go to advance auto/whatever and ask them to test it and buy whatever they say and maybe it will turn out fine.
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Dec 3, 2018 04:19
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Motronic posted:Nobody can tell you how hot garbage chryco electronics might behave in a low voltage situation, Heh. Adibiatic can. Heh.
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Dec 3, 2018 05:30
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spankmeister posted:It's just called a body plug afaik. You can get a plethora of them on eBay, probably at any hardware store too. Just get the right size. Never heard them called that before, but it checks out (must just be the automotive name for them). I've always heard them called blind grommets or blanking grommets in the electrical, building and appliance trades so if you're trying to find one at a hardware type store ask for them.
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Dec 3, 2018 05:59
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NitroSpazzz posted:Forgot Ford uses 'slide on' connectors for the coil so I can't use the spare I had from a past vehicle but have a coil, ICM and brake master cylinder on the way. Put in the new distributor, cleaned all the ICM harness connections and grounds. Timing is still a hair off we'll see if this does anything for the issue. May look more into Duraspark 2 or a aftermarket alternative for future use. Sounds like you may have DuraSpark 3 instead of 2 if you have a slide on connector on the coil. 2 used a typical old school coil setup. A little more info here, the plug and grommet colors will tell you what you have. PainterofCrap posted:Heh. Adibiatic can. I think kastein may be able to as well.  e: and Javid vvvvvvvv randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Dec 3, 2018 |
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Dec 3, 2018 06:36
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Motronic posted:hot garbage chryco electronics 
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Dec 3, 2018 07:14
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STR posted:Sounds like you may have DuraSpark 3 instead of 2 if you have a slide on connector on the coil. 2 used a typical old school coil setup. I was a bit surprised to see a blue grommet on the box yesterday so I may have some version of ds2. Distributor internal wiring looked pretty bad so I tossed in the replacement. Have too many errands to run after work to take it today but I'll probably drive it in tomorrow or maybe take it for a test drive this evening. Imgur is being lovely so if you want to see poorly lit unfocused pics - https://photos.app.goo.gl/wkVo9xjnjCyNxKzh9 I'm also never buying cheap spark plug leads again, I swear there's no feedback if these stupid things are snapped on or not.
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Dec 3, 2018 11:25
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Santheb posted:My 2007 Dodge Charger with 114k miles on it had an issue today and I’m just trying to see what I’m looking at here, hopefully just the battery. If it did some funky poo poo, but didn't start, and then five minutes later it did, check your battery connections and ground cable.
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Dec 3, 2018 12:24
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wesleywillis posted:If it did some funky poo poo, but didn't start, and then five minutes later it did, check your battery connections and ground cable. I went to do this and while I was down there figured I’d disconnect the ground while I was there because I’m gonna have to take this thing out one way or another eventually and well the clamp sort of disintegrated when I went to take it off the terminal. It’s time to call in the big guns *calls dad* Edit: ruh roh. Took the battery to AAP and they hooked it up to a reader. Came back good, here are the numbers. 12.41v 900 rated/843 CCA measured. Temperature 74 F. Really hoping it’s the corroded clamp, got a new top post and some wire cutters and hoping for the best. Ugh please don’t be anything worse. Santheb fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Dec 3, 2018 |
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Dec 3, 2018 17:42
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Just replace the whole cable - the corrosion will run way past what you can strip back to connect a new terminal (though absolutely do just the clamp for now to keep it running). If I remember right, the ground connects to the body close to the battery, then continues to the engine block on the passenger side somewhere. You can get 2 separate cables and connect them to the same bolt where they attach to the body, if it's easier that way. Resting voltage is a little low, but that battery is drat healthy if it's putting out those kind of amps
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Dec 3, 2018 22:14
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I've got another stupid question for you folks... 1990 Toyota 4Runner 22re I did a bunch of work on it this weekend, and it was a largely successful endeavor. No more oil leaks, fan works properly, no ore valve ticks, etc. Unfortunately my upper radiator hose refuses to not leak where it connects to the thermo housing. Should I just replace it? It hasn't gone stiff or has any cracks. The housing for the thermostat looked a little worse for wear when I took the hose off, I might replace that too. I kinda just want to ignore it till it goes away but I know better than to do that with this particular vehicle.
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Dec 3, 2018 22:34
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Last time I had that issue it turned out to be a cracked housing so you may want to double-check that.
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Dec 3, 2018 22:37
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STR posted:Just replace the whole cable - the corrosion will run way past what you can strip back to connect a new terminal (though absolutely do just the clamp for now to keep it running). Replaced the clamp and she fired right up three times in a row, no struggling. Phew! And you’re right, the ground runs about an inch and a half to the body and through the passenger side. Thanks guys!
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Dec 3, 2018 22:52
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Bi-la kaifa posted:I've got another stupid question for you folks... Never mind, I'm dumb. I do need a new rad now though. Should I get the OEM or get a 3 row one?
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Dec 5, 2018 02:24
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cursedshitbox posted:
What do you think a starter solenoid is?
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Dec 5, 2018 03:40
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kid sinister posted:What do you think a starter solenoid is? And the turn signals. I think those were the 3 relays (2 in the box, starer solenoid was of course on the fender) along with the 7 glass fuses in my '74 f250.
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Dec 5, 2018 04:05
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I forgot to disconnect the battery on my car that I haven't driven (more than moving it once in October) and the battery is completely drained. Doesn't even turn on interior lights. The battery is no more than 2 years old. Is it hosed or can I hook up a charger to it at a later date?
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Dec 5, 2018 19:06
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MrOnBicycle posted:I forgot to disconnect the battery on my car that I haven't driven (more than moving it once in October) and the battery is completely drained. Doesn't even turn on interior lights. The battery is no more than 2 years old. Is it hosed or can I hook up a charger to it at a later date? You can hook it up to a manual charger and probably get it back, albeit with reduced capacity. When I get stuck with poo poo like this I usually use the old rear end transformer charger for 30 minutes or so so it has SOME charge in it and then switch over to the auto charger so I don't forget about it and cook off the battery. You could also see if the local parts store will put it on the carbon pile load tester. That will charge it and give you an idea of just how worse for wear it is.
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Dec 5, 2018 19:22
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I mean, best case scenario is it comes back to life with reduced capacity and a greatly reduced remaining lifespan. On the plus side, if it's less than two years old, it probably has a warranty?
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Dec 5, 2018 19:45
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They're not going to replace it under warranty unless it tests bad.
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Dec 5, 2018 19:58
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IOwnCalculus posted:I mean, best case scenario is it comes back to life with reduced capacity and a greatly reduced remaining lifespan. Yeah, just charge it up and keep using it. Buy one only when you have to.
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Dec 5, 2018 20:11
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Cool, thanks. Annoying to have screwed up a 2 year old battery (no warranty), but poo poo happens. On that same now, how often do I need to move the car in other to not have the tires go wonky (unless that's a myth). They are pretty much new. I would have put the car on jackstands if i could but yeah. Car is standing on shingles, not a asphalt or concrete.
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Dec 5, 2018 20:38
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Do you park near an outlet? If you're in the US and have a Harbor Freight nearby these float chargers will keep your battery topped off when the car isn't being driven.
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Dec 5, 2018 20:41
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MrOnBicycle posted:Cool, thanks. Annoying to have screwed up a 2 year old battery (no warranty), but poo poo happens. On that same now, how often do I need to move the car in other to not have the tires go wonky (unless that's a myth). They are pretty much new. I would have put the car on jackstands if i could but yeah. Car is standing on shingles, not a asphalt or concrete. Depending on your local weather, once a month is good for stopping things like brakes seizing up
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Dec 5, 2018 20:44
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Godholio posted:They're not going to replace it under warranty unless it tests bad. It might test bad after being fully drained, and at any rate that's why I buy batteries at Costco now.
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Dec 5, 2018 21:14
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MrOnBicycle posted:Cool, thanks. Annoying to have screwed up a 2 year old battery (no warranty), but poo poo happens. On that same now, how often do I need to move the car in other to not have the tires go wonky (unless that's a myth). They are pretty much new. I would have put the car on jackstands if i could but yeah. Car is standing on shingles, not a asphalt or concrete. I've left cars in the garage for a good 4-5 months before and the tyres didnt have any noticeable flat spots, all of my cars are fairly light (sub 1500kg) though. Motronic posted:When I get stuck with poo poo like this I usually use the old rear end transformer charger for 30 minutes or so so it has SOME charge in it and then switch over to the auto charger so I don't forget about it and cook off the battery. Side question, I did this except forgot like a dumbass and left it on the old rear end transformer charger for a good chunk of an evening, when I got back to it it was hissing. I haven't tried to hook it up yet, but it's probably trashed now, right?
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Dec 5, 2018 22:12
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Someone hit our car and we just noticed. I think it was probably last night in a parking lot, but the place doesn't have cameras so we can't know for sure. Am I obligated to report it to the insurance? If I do report it, I'm concerned that the damage will be enough to increase our rates even though it's a hit and run since there's nobody else to go after in this case and we can't prove we didn't just take a baseball bat to it. It's just the rear bumper on a 19-year-old Ford, but I'm also concerned that by virtue of it being an old Ford it will get totaled.
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Dec 5, 2018 23:25
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Someone hit our car and we just noticed. I think it was probably last night in a parking lot, but the place doesn't have cameras so we can't know for sure. No. This only interested party would be a financial institution holding the title while you pay it off, but I'm assuming something that's old enough to vote has long since been paid off.
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Dec 5, 2018 23:44
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Grakkus posted:Side question, I did this except forgot like a dumbass and left it on the old rear end transformer charger for a good chunk of an evening, when I got back to it it was hissing. I haven't tried to hook it up yet, but it's probably trashed now, right? Maybe not. Is it sealed or can you open it and properly refill with distilled water?
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Dec 6, 2018 00:39
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Went to get my 04 Ford Mustang GT smogged today, was told I couldn't pass because the intake doesn't have an ID number on it and that my car may or may not have a catalytic converter (car is lowered, guy said to come by later so they can lift it). Looked it over with my brother and things don't seem right Alright so thats the number for the air meter. Where would the number for the intake be? Google is failing me on this.  Here is an overall view. The welds are too clean, the plug is installed tightly. This doesn't look like some kid wanted to soup up the car and did a hack job at it. E: As for the converter, its a cat back Borla exhaust, it plugs into a converter. I can't imagine not having one. Leal fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Dec 6, 2018 |
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Dec 6, 2018 02:47
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I just googled it and apparently CARB regulates air intakes in California like they do exhausts. Companies have to get a special code/stamp from CARB for each of their products basically saying it's not actively harming the environment. Yours looks like some generic intake from eBay and possibly didn't spend the money to make their products not illegal in one state. Is this your first time getting it inspected? It is for shizzle not stock. A "cat back" is technically everything behind the cats (mufflers, resonators whatever) and doesn't include the actual catalytic converters in it's description. Catalytic converters are generally on a midpipe, which is between the engine and catback. You could have converters down there, or you can have a totally open empty pipe. Does your exhaust smell like every other cars exhaust on the road or is it maybe a little stinkier that you've noticed? Can you snap a picture under there? Cage fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Dec 6, 2018 |
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Dec 6, 2018 05:43
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Yeah seconding everything Cage said. That seems like a halfway decent aftermarket kit, but aftermarket all the same.
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Dec 6, 2018 06:03
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If you have or can find a stock intake it's a 20 minute swap. Nothing is welded, those are just tubes with clamps connecting them. If not, you have to buy a carb certified intake. If you have an open midpipe (no cats) that is slightly longer even if you've done it four or five times, it never seemed to get easier. I, too, jumped into the world of car inspection troubles owning the same mysteriously modified car in NY, which follows CA rules for exhausts.
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Dec 6, 2018 06:20
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The number he was asking about is the CARB exemption number for that aftermarket intake. If it's a CARB approved intake, it would have come with a sticker either on the intake, or to attach somewhere under the hood. You're gonna need to find a stock intake, air box, and resonator. Installing the resonator will likely require pulling the bumper. It's all going to be plastic bits. Alternatively, find a CARB approved aftermarket intake - BBK seems to still make one for a bit under $200 (and it's pretty much identical). Borla is good stuff, and generally goes through the trouble to get their exhausts CARB approved. But depending how anal the inspector is, he may want to see proof of the exhaust brand/model/CARB numbers (Borla may have welded a plate somewhere).
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Dec 6, 2018 06:35
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Grakkus posted:I've left cars in the garage for a good 4-5 months before and the tyres didnt have any noticeable flat spots, all of my cars are fairly light (sub 1500kg) though. <1200kg car, so should be fine then. Thanks! I changed position of it less than 2 months ago and now again. Will probably do it once more before the end of the year. I'll take the battery out and get it charger/tended as well. Planned on it initially but forgot. Oh well.
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Dec 6, 2018 08:46
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Motronic posted:Maybe not. Is it sealed or can you open it and properly refill with distilled water? It's sealed - but surely that means the water won't escape?
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Dec 6, 2018 10:54
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No, they're still vented so that gasses can escape, and if you boiled away the electrolyte that's exactly how it would have left.
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Dec 6, 2018 17:57
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