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I was all set to remove the plague that is popcorn ceilings from my house this weekend... gently caress you, popcorn ceilings. I guess I'm stuck with you for now.
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Dec 1, 2018 05:25
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Fats posted:I was all set to remove the plague that is popcorn ceilings from my house this weekend... Plaster skim over the top of it instead?
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Dec 1, 2018 10:37
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immoral_ posted:Oh , then run away. I can’t run I live here.
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Dec 1, 2018 14:29
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willroc7 posted:I can’t run I live here. That's what the family in Poltergeist said
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Dec 1, 2018 18:52
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wandler20 posted:I'll look into a bigger unit. I had it professionally installed so you'd think they would know what size I'd need but apparently not. They could know that, but it takes actual work and testing. Manual J, manual S plus a door fan test. No one actually does this in residential. But they should.
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Dec 1, 2018 22:28
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The electrician re-wiring my garage is an idiot. (That's H/N reversed.) This screw decided to make an appearance from somewhere above while I was hammering in a staple on an adjacent stud. Box is hot. Totally didn't make me jump I swear. 
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Dec 2, 2018 01:53
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I blew a bunch of fiberglass insulation in my attic today. My house was probably about R30 before but it was rolled insulation. I dumped quite a bit more in there and filled any cracks. I should now be near R60. About 3 hours of work and $450 so not bad at all. Not sure if it's a coincidence but my Nest is now reading 34% humidity and before the highest I saw was 31%. It's also been freezing rain outside so that may play a factor.
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Dec 2, 2018 02:48
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So I don’t really know what thread to put this in because it’s not totally plumbing, but apparently our dishwasher isn’t insulated and that’s why it has been absurdly loud. The OEM wrap is pretty much a felt blanket that does nothing. How hard is it to insulate a dishwasher and is there any particular type of insulation I should use?
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Dec 4, 2018 20:42
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Insulate.. a dishwasher? Is that some sort of American thing?
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Dec 4, 2018 20:54
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KKKLIP ART posted:So I don’t really know what thread to put this in because it’s not totally plumbing, but apparently our dishwasher isn’t insulated and that’s why it has been absurdly loud. The OEM wrap is pretty much a felt blanket that does nothing. How hard is it to insulate a dishwasher and is there any particular type of insulation I should use? What dishwasher do you have? Because mine isn't wrapped beyond the OEM stuff and it's pretty quiet but that's because I bought a quiet dishwasher. Doing some googling you can open up your dishwasher door and DIY insulation in there, replace or add to your wrap, and throw a sound absorbent panel on the backside. I would stay away from fiberglass insluation but otherwise shouldn't really matter, the more dense the better it should absorb soundwaves.
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Dec 4, 2018 21:16
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Jaded Burnout posted:Insulate.. a dishwasher? Is that some sort of American thing? Is it? They sell them insulated everywhere I thought.
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Dec 4, 2018 21:17
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TheManWithNoName posted:Is it? They sell them insulated everywhere I thought. I mean, maybe they're insulated inside somewhere, but mine have always looked like this: 
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Dec 4, 2018 22:14
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KKKLIP ART posted:So I don’t really know what thread to put this in because it’s not totally plumbing, but apparently our dishwasher isn’t insulated and that’s why it has been absurdly loud. The OEM wrap is pretty much a felt blanket that does nothing. How hard is it to insulate a dishwasher and is there any particular type of insulation I should use? Search for Hushmat. Most American households use slide in dishwashers over the stand alone units. 
HycoCam fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Dec 4, 2018 |
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Dec 4, 2018 23:05
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Is your dishwasher's body plastic? As far as I know the biggest difference between cheap loud models and more expensive models is the fact the latter are typically metal bodied. I replaced a "premium" but broken GE steel model with a bottom of the barrel plastic frigidaire model and while the GE did come with some external foam insulation frankly I can't see how it did much given its loose coverage. I did go ahead and make use of that loose foam insulation though and even then the difference in sound was laughable, good god that frigidaire was loud. PS don't buy a GE dishwasher... or a $250 dishwasher unless you're like me and literally under contract to buy a new house when your dishwasher breaks on you.
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Dec 5, 2018 10:05
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My Bosch dishwasher is amazingly quiet. I just wish it had heated drying.
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Dec 5, 2018 14:35
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Yeah, my Bosch is fuckin sweet. It actually has a laser it shines on the floor so you know it's running.
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Dec 5, 2018 15:34
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tetrapyloctomy posted:My Bosch dishwasher is amazingly quiet. I just wish it had heated drying. Are your glass and ceramic dishes coming out wet? Mine spends the last 30 minutes doing... Something. Pretty sure it is heated dry. Which model do you have?
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Dec 5, 2018 15:48
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tetrapyloctomy posted:My Bosch dishwasher is amazingly quiet. I just wish it had heated drying. if you're not already, run with sanitize so it gets to 160F, and that retained heat helps to evaporate the moisture from most things for me.
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Dec 5, 2018 15:56
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Ghostnuke posted:Yeah, my Bosch is fuckin sweet. It actually has a laser it shines on the floor so you know it's running. Yes! It's amazing how stupidly useful this feature is. Especially considering there are no buttons/lights on the front.
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Dec 5, 2018 16:15
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Ghostnuke posted:Yeah, my Bosch is fuckin sweet. It actually has a laser it shines on the floor so you know it's running. What a simple solution to this stupid "no visible buttons" trend. I need that.
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Dec 5, 2018 16:21
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H110Hawk posted:Are your glass and ceramic dishes coming out wet? Mine spends the last 30 minutes doing... Something. Pretty sure it is heated dry. Which model do you have? Qwijib0 posted:if you're not already, run with sanitize so it gets to 160F, and that retained heat helps to evaporate the moisture from most things for me. Also, it has a lower height than many other manufacturers, which helps if, like in my kitchen, the counters are a little low.
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Dec 5, 2018 16:38
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tetrapyloctomy posted:My Bosch dishwasher is amazingly quiet. I just wish it had heated drying. Miele, baby. Mine even opens the door a little after drying to let the moisture out. I guess another continental difference is we largely got rid of warm water intakes years ago; all of them heat the water internally, so there’s no (need for a) sanitize option.
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Dec 5, 2018 19:49
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Aren’t these European brands annoying when they age and need repairs and parts take weeks to show up?
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Dec 5, 2018 19:56
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Jaded Burnout posted:Miele, baby. Mine even opens the door a little after drying to let the moisture out. The US Bosch models also have internal water heaters-- code here requires a mixing valve on hot water to prevent scalds so they'd rarely see an input over 120F.
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Dec 5, 2018 20:01
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Jaded Burnout posted:I guess another continental difference is we largely got rid of warm water intakes years ago; all of them heat the water internally, so there’s no (need for a) sanitize option. All of the US-based ones I've seen heat their own water also, even the most basic models. They usually have an element in the bottom of the tub (like an oven), and water fills this at the start of the cycle, then the DW heats the water to its preferred temp (>130F.) This element can also performs the heated dry step, if available. I think most washers still expect to be connected to a hot water line because if it had to heat the water all the way from cold, it would have a longer cycle. Presumably, you also have a water heater that is less expensive to make hot water than the electric element (gas/heat pump.)
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Dec 5, 2018 20:08
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Jealous Cow posted:Aren’t these European brands annoying when they age and need repairs and parts take weeks to show up? Dunno, I’m European. B-Nasty posted:I think most washers still expect to be connected to a hot water line because if it had to heat the water all the way from cold, it would have a longer cycle. Presumably, you also have a water heater that is less expensive to make hot water than the electric element (gas/heat pump.) There must be some kind of trade off because I’ve not seen one with a hot input in years.
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Dec 5, 2018 20:16
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Qwijib0 posted:The US Bosch models also have internal water heaters-- code here requires a mixing valve on hot water to prevent scalds so they'd rarely see an input over 120F. Watching mine go through a cycle on a Kill-a-Watt it definitely kicks on the heating element several times throughout the cycle. Uses ~1.0KWh/cycle on "auto" with no sanitize selected. I do use Jet Dry. Another thing is to check your configured options in the hidden menu. Read your manual, it controls how much like Jet Dry is dispensed and how long it stays on in standby mode when not running. I had to notch mine up from the default of like 4? to 7? with the max being 9. It's been like this for 2 years now so don't quote me on that.
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Dec 5, 2018 20:19
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So here is what I found out about this dumb dishwasher, and maybe that can help out here: It is a Whirlpool DV810SWPQ0, a rental grade unit. There is a blanket around it, but there is no foam inside the door to deaden the sound. This I found out by taking the inside panel off from the outer door. It is pretty much just open space and a few plastic supports. I don't mind getting some foam, I don't know what to get. I am assuming some type of styrofoam or is there a foam insulation that has a mild adhesive back that I can just cut to size?
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Dec 6, 2018 01:44
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KKKLIP ART posted:So here is what I found out about this dumb dishwasher, and maybe that can help out here: It is a Whirlpool DV810SWPQ0, a rental grade unit. There is a blanket around it, but there is no foam inside the door to deaden the sound. This I found out by taking the inside panel off from the outer door. It is pretty much just open space and a few plastic supports. I don't mind getting some foam, I don't know what to get. I am assuming some type of styrofoam or is there a foam insulation that has a mild adhesive back that I can just cut to size? I guess automotive sound deadener might work. It’s adhesive. Kind of a tar sheet cover in foil. There’s a bunch of small rolls on eBay. Here’s a random one. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152984068986
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Dec 6, 2018 02:36
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To repaint my kitchen cabinets please tell me if these steps sound right: 1. Remove doors. 2. Strip lovely old paint. I have a heatgun for this. Wet sanding if needed(?) 3. Clean with TSP. 4. Paint. Does type of paint matter? Some sort of kitchen sealer coat?
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Dec 7, 2018 00:28
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1B. Remove all hardware. I'm not a paint genius but a thinner coat is better (according to my experience with lovely sticky overpainted cabinets) so check sprays and stains.
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Dec 7, 2018 01:23
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tangy yet delightful posted:To repaint my kitchen cabinets please tell me if these steps sound right: Painters caulk and putty to fill in gaps, cracks and holes. If you’re going from a dark stained wood I guarantee there are imperfections that will jump out once painted lighter. Putting on some primer first will help spot them. Label the doors but still expect to “massage” some hinges later. The glossiest paint you can get for clean-ability. Brush strokes show especially bad in glossy paint so mix a little Floetrol into your paint. It makes paint flow better so cheap paint acts like $90/gal paint store stuff. Smooth foam rollers. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Dec 7, 2018 |
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Dec 7, 2018 02:55
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Godspeed on that project. I attempted to repaint mine once. I gave up, bought wood, and made new kitchen cabinet doors.
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Dec 7, 2018 04:46
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Make sure to use a good self leveling, alkyd based paint, like Benjamin Moore Advance: https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/interior-exterior-paints-stains/product-catalog/awiap/advance-interior-paint Preferably sprayed through a HVLP gun with Flowtrol mixed in with the paint. We did a small kitchen worth of cabinets, 10 or so doors and 4 drawers and it literally took like 40 hours over a week and it turned out just ok. We went all in on prep, too. So, don’t paint your cabinets.
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Dec 7, 2018 04:57
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So what I'm getting from this cabinet painting discussion is that whenever we decide to look into it, we should hire someone.
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Dec 7, 2018 05:02
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Thanks for all the info. I'm going to at least attempt the stripping as I've been hearing that painters don't want to do that and want to just come out and paint. So perhaps I'll bail halfway I dunno but I should have 4-5 days I can work on this solid at the end of this year so I may knock it out to save the money. If I do I'll post results.
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Dec 7, 2018 06:34
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couldcareless posted:So what I'm getting from this cabinet painting discussion is that whenever we decide to look into it, we should hire someone. No, it’s really not that bad. At worst try one cabinet door and see if you like the results before hiring.
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Dec 7, 2018 12:23
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Yeah TBH we did the same thing recently and it was freaking exhausting and took about 4x as long as we expected. (And we really still need to do more, like touch-ups and probably a coat of something like polycrylic to protect it.) Painting a whole room is a piece of cake by comparison. It's definitely doable, but I wouldn't blame anyone for hiring out. Of course, we have 2 toddlers so...
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Dec 7, 2018 13:49
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Does anyone have tips/experience regarding drafty double French doors? Last year around this time we put duct tape over the cracks (mostly the middle, but also some on the sides) and that made a noticeable difference, especially to our thermostat. Over the summer we had someone come and adjust the doors a little -- they were slightly crooked and didn't press up against the middle bar properly, to the point where you could actually see daylight. He also replaced the weather stripping. Of course, the middle bar can only be weather-stripped so much -- it does have some, but it's hard to see how it could really be made air tight. This year we seem to be having the same problem again; I think it's a little better, but it is still causing our HVAC to kick into overdrive most nights. Obviously the best solution is probably just getting new doors (these have probably been here since the house was built in 1987), but are there any other little things that can be done to help until then? Taping them up works, but it's annoying and ugly. I had once tried some adhesive foam type stuff (in the middle, which is the main problem), but it was hard to do it in such a way that both doors could be freely opened and closed. Perhaps I should try it again now that they're less crooked. I feel like the ideal would be some kind of... magnetic flap? Like across the middle, attached to one door and it slaps closed on the other. I sense that they still don't form a great deal against the middle bar, but I don't know how much else could possibly be done to make them do that. So just slapping some kind of seal over that crack seems better, but I still want to be able to open them. I think the sides, top, and bottom are all relatively good at this point. Sir Lemming fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Dec 8, 2018 |
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Dec 8, 2018 16:26
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Jealous Cow posted:Make sure to use a good self leveling, alkyd based paint, like Benjamin Moore Advance: https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/interior-exterior-paints-stains/product-catalog/awiap/advance-interior-paint Follow up question re: HVLP gun Would a 21gal Harbor Freight air compressor be good enough for the job (figuring I'd buy it for the job then sell afterwards, Home Depot charges only $20 less for a rental for a week)? Also what about a Harbor Freight HVLP gun? Or should I go Husky brand, or something else?
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Dec 8, 2018 18:52
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