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wesleywillis posted:Put in the drain plug, then cloth oer top of drain, but yeah, what he said. Honestly I don't even see drain plugs these days. Most homes have a trip lever with an internal plug down the overflow. All that old style stuff has been rotted out or replaced by now.
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Dec 5, 2018 20:33
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BubbaGrace posted:Honestly I don't even see drain plugs these days. Most homes have a trip lever with an internal plug down the overflow. All that old style stuff has been rotted out or replaced by now. My old fashioned mentality. I meant the spring loaded type you step on to open/close Or whatever constitutes "plugging" the drain thses days, plus the cloth. JMHO
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Dec 5, 2018 20:48
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And, not that is matters, not applicable here because it's a shower stall with the standard waffle stomp drain. Some painters tape keeps the parts out just fine.
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Dec 5, 2018 21:12
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GWBBQ posted:If this is still happening, there are two things you can try. With or without replacing the valve on the shower, turn off the water supply to your house, open every faucet until it drains, then turn the supply back on and slowly close every faucet, starting from the bottom and working your way to the top. BubbaGrace posted:Could be a couple of things. I've been ignoring it for the time being, given that it's been going on for years and it only happens in the shower, and only at approaching too-hot-to-be-comfortable temperatures. But I have a single handle shower valve, and no idea of what a re-circulation pump is, but there is an expansion tank hanging right near the water heater. But speaking of water heaters, I'm guessing since last night the TPR valve? (coming out the side near the top with a drain hose down the side of the water heater) blew open and basically dumped who knows how many gallons into my basement which conveniently has no drain in the floor. So as of now I merely turned off the incoming cold and opened the hot faucet in the kitchen to empty the tank to stop the flooding until I get someone to come out Monday morning. I'll mention the shower thing to them too.
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Dec 8, 2018 17:20
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metallicaeg posted:I've been ignoring it for the time being, given that it's been going on for years and it only happens in the shower, and only at approaching too-hot-to-be-comfortable temperatures. But I have a single handle shower valve, and no idea of what a re-circulation pump is, but there is an expansion tank hanging right near the water heater. If your T&P is popping like that you have a problem. The only reason that thing would trip like that is thermal expansion. At this point I would call a plumber. Without being there I can't give you any more answers and sleep at night.
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Dec 9, 2018 06:36
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BubbaGrace posted:If your T&P is popping like that you have a problem. The only reason that thing would trip like that is thermal expansion. At this point I would call a plumber. Without being there I can't give you any more answers and sleep at night. Replaced the tank yesterday, as it was dated from 2005
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Dec 10, 2018 18:51
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I had an issue this morning where I turned on my shower and the water pressure was low. The temps hot and cold were both functioning properly. I checked my faucets and they all had same issue - temps functioned, low pressure. I went to the garage to investigate. The house has PEX and the manifold is in the garage. I found water leaking from the top area and the bottom third, circled in the image at the bottom of this post. The water was not gushing out, but it was more than a slow drip. Like if you turn your kitchen faucet on just a little bit so you can barely just see individual drips but its not yet a steady stream. I was already late for work, so I turned off all the individual circuits (the black diamonds on the red/blue caps) and that seemed to stop the leak. The weather last night was a low of 39 (Houston area) and its in a non-insulated garage, so it couldn't have frozen. Yesterday the water in the house was working normally. I don't know anything about PEX, but is it possible one of the fittings could have vibrated loose? It would have had to be one of the top two since there was a leak at the top. Or can water travel inside the manifold? Is this a textbook case of remove and replace the manifold?  Click for bigger Label at top says "MANABLOC Modular Manifold Plumbing System" Label on bottom third says "Vanguard Piping Systems Inc."
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Dec 10, 2018 20:50
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Or can water travel inside the manifold? That is, by definition, what a manifold is for. So yes. You're going to have to come up with detailed pictures of where these leaks are.
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Dec 10, 2018 21:15
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metallicaeg posted:Replaced the tank yesterday, as it was dated from 2005 Which tank? The water heater tank or was there an expansion tank that had failed?
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Dec 10, 2018 22:04
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Motronic posted:That is, by definition, what a manifold is for. So yes. Looks like there are repair kits for the valves available. I'm guessing if it's not a valve, you replace the whole thing since they appear to be in the $200-250 range and made of plastic, so not really made for rebuilds of the other inner parts or the body.
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Dec 10, 2018 22:12
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Looks like there are repair kits for the valves available. I'm guessing if it's not a valve, you replace the whole thing since they appear to be in the $200-250 range and made of plastic, so not really made for rebuilds of the other inner parts or the body. Exactly - and that was what I'm getting at with detailed pics. If it's part of the manifold proper there's not much sense in trying to patch it unless it's VERY temporary. If it's something associated with the manifold, a valve, or a leaking pipe/connector you have a much simpler and cheaper task on hand.
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Dec 10, 2018 22:22
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Motronic posted:Exactly - and that was what I'm getting at with detailed pics. If it's part of the manifold proper there's not much sense in trying to patch it unless it's VERY temporary. If it's something associated with the manifold, a valve, or a leaking pipe/connector you have a much simpler and cheaper task on hand.
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Dec 10, 2018 22:25
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Looks like there is a class action lawsuit brewing over Flowguard CPVC. I hate the stuff and refuse to install it. Every time I run into it out in the field I am terrified to touch it because of how brittle it can get. Would love nothing more than to see it go the way of QEST.
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Dec 11, 2018 00:16
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BubbaGrace posted:Looks like there is a class action lawsuit brewing over Flowguard CPVC. I hate the stuff and refuse to install it. Every time I run into it out in the field I am terrified to touch it because of how brittle it can get. Would love nothing more than to see it go the way of QEST. Whats your experience with Kitec piping? Just found out a few weeks ago my condo is full of it.
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Dec 11, 2018 12:26
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wesleywillis posted:Whats your experience with Kitec piping? Never seen it personally, but I know it's bad business as it also was the subject of a class action lawsuit. They stopped selling it around 05. The life expectancy is 10 years or less due to the deficiencies. You are on borrowed time friend. Get rid of it.
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Dec 11, 2018 12:54
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Getting a tankless water heater installed. They're suggesting a "Takagi TK510" (Appears to be http://www.takagi.com/products/tankless-water-heaters/tk-510c-ni ) - How good/bad of brand is it? One random review board seemed to think it was the worst thing since sliced bread. Our tap water is ~60F in the winter, I just went and measured it. Looking at the spec sheet that yields ~5.75GPM @ 120F set point.
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Dec 12, 2018 01:03
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BubbaGrace posted:Looks like there is a class action lawsuit brewing over Flowguard CPVC. I hate the stuff and refuse to install it. Every time I run into it out in the field I am terrified to touch it because of how brittle it can get. Would love nothing more than to see it go the way of QEST. CPVC seems to be, IMHO, a unfairly targeted whipping boy. It can get somewhat brittle on hot lines, but if it's installed correctly (cleaned/primed/glued/no pressure for 2 hours) and not overly restricted from expanding, I haven't seen many issues. It's not going to take the same amount of abuse as copper, so you do have to be careful around stub outs. A bunch of crusty old plumbers try to cut older CPVC with shears (when it explicitly says to use a screw tubing cutter), and then act shocked when it shatters instead of slicing like new pipe. Besides, it's not like various flavors of PEX haven't had ambulance chasing lawyers going after it too. What PEX suppliers/systems won't have lawsuits 10-15 years from now? I see plenty of internet discussions from some of those crusty old guys ripping on PEX, likely due to soldering skills quickly becoming obsolete on new builds. CPVC installed correctly not exposed to sunlight or extreme cold is just fine.
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Dec 12, 2018 03:22
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Are there non-bendy plastic toilet seats? We need a new toilet seat and need to sit on the lid (the cat has a ritual in the bathroom and for this we must be sitting). I was going to get a wooden one but all the ones I found on Amazon say either the hinges broke or the seat itself cracked. Is this just  Americans or is it really hard to find non-bendy seats that won't break somehow?
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Dec 12, 2018 04:15
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effika posted:Are there non-bendy plastic toilet seats? We need a new toilet seat and need to sit on the lid (the cat has a ritual in the bathroom and for this we must be sitting). I was going to get a wooden one but all the ones I found on Amazon say either the hinges broke or the seat itself cracked. I've had a plastic slow-close seat for years; I'm a huge fat-body, and have had no problems, Doesn't flex at all. Got it at Home Depot.
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Dec 12, 2018 05:01
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PainterofCrap posted:I've had a plastic slow-close seat for years; I'm a huge fat-body, and have had no problems, Doesn't flex at all. Got it at Home Depot. Hmm, ill see what I can find locally with a sturdy lid. I forgot stores sold them because I never see them in Target. Usually the seats are fine, it's the lids that will be terrible and flexible.
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Dec 12, 2018 05:25
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B-Nasty posted:CPVC seems to be, IMHO, a unfairly targeted whipping boy. It can get somewhat brittle on hot lines, but if it's installed correctly (cleaned/primed/glued/no pressure for 2 hours) and not overly restricted from expanding, I haven't seen many issues. It's not going to take the same amount of abuse as copper, so you do have to be careful around stub outs. A bunch of crusty old plumbers try to cut older CPVC with shears (when it explicitly says to use a screw tubing cutter), and then act shocked when it shatters instead of slicing like new pipe. I always use a fine tooth hacksaw blade to cut any existing CPVC. The really devil when it comes to CPVC are these loving things...  Also the current thing for old guys to rage about, at least from what I've seen, is Pro Press. They hate it much more than PEX for some reason. BubbaGrace fucked around with this message at 11:30 on Dec 12, 2018 |
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Dec 12, 2018 11:15
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BubbaGrace posted:Never seen it personally, but I know it's bad business as it also was the subject of a class action lawsuit. They stopped selling it around 05. The life expectancy is 10 years or less due to the deficiencies. You are on borrowed time friend. Get rid of it. Yeah, there was a meeting with all the owners a week or so ago. they were all like "yeah so this poo poo could catastrophically fail at any time, we're working on it, oh BTW, its probably going to cost 5+ Gs and you'll probably only get a hundred bucks out of the class action".
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Dec 12, 2018 13:11
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BubbaGrace posted:The really devil when it comes to CPVC are these loving things... I totally agree with that. CPVC valves, ball or gate, are absolute garbage. I always convert to threaded and put a nice brass one on there, properly secured to something so cranking on the valve isn't transferring that force to the pipe. It's funny, because PEX manifold shutoffs are basically PVC valves. I have a feeling those aren't going to shut the water off fully in 10 years.
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Dec 12, 2018 13:54
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effika posted:Hmm, ill see what I can find locally with a sturdy lid. I forgot stores sold them because I never see them in Target. I bought a wooden one from lowes, and it hasn't broken.... I'm not sure I've *ever* seen a broken toilet seat. I was curious and looked at some amazon listing.. this review is terrifying: https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R3N082KXJ8UBMA/ quote:I hate to knock a product that looks so nice. The bamboo wood is fine, but the hardware, unfortunately is not. I purchased this in February 2016 and 10 months have passed. Now it is hanging on by one hinge. The metal simply deteriorated into ugly black crumbs. The picture says it all. The seat is also somewhat small and it barely covers the bowl. It is very flat and not molded like most toilet sets. In other words, it is hard and uncomfortable. Maybe I can convert the lid into a nice cutting board. Anyone want some used toilet seat cutting boards?
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Dec 13, 2018 01:00
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devicenull posted:I bought a wooden one from lowes, and it hasn't broken.... I'm not sure I've *ever* seen a broken toilet seat. If they would stop pissing all over the toliet the pins wouldn't be corroding.
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Dec 13, 2018 03:17
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BubbaGrace posted:If they would stop pissing all over the toliet the pins wouldn't be corroding. Indeed, but really, this is a use case for fittings that don't corrode when exposed to urine.
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Dec 13, 2018 03:33
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BubbaGrace posted:If they would stop pissing all over the toliet the pins wouldn't be corroding. The quality of toilet seat hinges is definitely pretty poor: I've had to replace 3 seats in 5 years because the hinges has corroded and the top layer flaked off and looked really manky. And it's not due to them being hosed down with pee.
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Dec 13, 2018 09:22
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spog posted:The quality of toilet seat hinges is definitely pretty poor: I've had to replace 3 seats in 5 years because the hinges has corroded and the top layer flaked off and looked really manky. Yeah, any of the cheaper ones with "chrome" hinges fall apart instantly. Stick with the white plastic hinges and you're good.
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Dec 13, 2018 13:51
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Slugworth posted:Yeah, any of the cheaper ones with "chrome" hinges fall apart instantly. Stick with the white plastic hinges and you're good. Unfortunately, in the UK it seems that you can only get plastic hinges with the really cheap and nasty plastic seats. Anything above poverty-rental spec has those 'chrome' ones.
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Dec 13, 2018 14:20
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Slugworth posted:Yeah, any of the cheaper ones with "chrome" hinges fall apart instantly. Stick with the white plastic hinges and you're good. This. I bought a BEMIS easy-clean slow-close with the lockable nylon hinges (1/4-twist on each hinge removes the entire unit for cleaning) and have had no problems in five years.
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Dec 13, 2018 14:23
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I want to re-route the PVC under my kitchen double-basin sink. It currently flows straight down from one side to a T, with the disposal on the other side going straight across, and then from the bottom of the T to a P trap. It then goes out in front of the old disposal and has a slight angle connector before a long straight run to the wall. All PVC is 1 1/4 which I am fine with unless there is a good reason to go to 1 1/2 (seems like a lot of work to change?) Basically I don’t know if this is currently the proper way to run from the two basins. It seems like the disposal and the second basin should both drop to the ends of a T that has a P in the middle. I also don’t know if I can run the remaining piping behind a new smaller disposal, or if those long runs currently in front are needed since the angle to the wall is a little weird. I can take pictures if that would help. I’ve done this before at an old house, but my current piping is kind of weird and i don’t want to cause a problem.
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Dec 14, 2018 14:21
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1 1/4" is too small for a kitchen sink. Yes, please take some pictures.
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Dec 14, 2018 17:10
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Imgur album: https://imgur.com/a/vXZ4uwO     I am replacing the disposal with a much smaller unit. The new disposal comes with a plug, but can be hardwired. Is it a better idea to hardwire it or should I install a GFCI under the sink next to the disposal control switch? You can see the great craftsmanship of whoever did this piping, as it is crooked and flows uphill slightly from the P to the wall. The zip ties are a nice touch - I guess it doesn't hurt, but I doubt this is how it's supposed to be done correctly. The only problem I've had is when filling the second basin (with no disposal) and then draining the water it will overflow at the connector above the P. The little black box hanging off of the junction in the back controls the lights below the counters. I'm guessing this probably isn't right either? The kitchen was redone by the previous owners in the late 2000s. Like I said, ideally I'd like to get the pipes behind the disposal if possible, but if not it's not a big deal since there's still plenty of usable room.
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Dec 14, 2018 18:55
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Bigass Moth posted:Imgur album: I want to murder the “plumber” that did that
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Dec 14, 2018 19:10
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Bigass Moth posted:Imgur album: You could make that a lot simpler by putting the disposal in the right basin. In fact, that would be your best bet for getting the slopes correct. You can't install GFCIs in cabinets. That's against the "easily accessible" requirement for them. Just install a regular outlet down there. I prefer having an outlet down there as it makes it easier to install the wiring. I can attach a plug to the disposal outside the cabinet where there's lots of room. Got a closer picture of the light box? From your picture it actually looks pretty good.
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Dec 14, 2018 19:23
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kid sinister posted:You could make that a lot simpler by putting the disposal in the right basin. In fact, that would be your best bet for getting the slopes correct. Yes, I've attached a picture of the light box as well as the switch that controls the disposal and two shots of the wall inlet for the PVC (does this look bad with the green spots?) We had most of the main piping replaced with Pex when we re-did our basement, but this drain wasn't replaced. Can this support 1 1/2" PVC or is it sized for 1 1/4" only? [timg]https://i.imgur.com/KSXKy7b.jpg[/url][/timg] [timg]https://i.imgur.com/BFTGF6F.jpg[/url][/timg] [timg]https://i.imgur.com/HWOESak.jpg[/url][/timg] [timg]https://i.imgur.com/fKhwGLi.jpg[/url][/timg]
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Dec 14, 2018 19:36
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Oh god, the more I look at this, the worse it is. Kitchen drains are supposed to be 1-1/2". Your slip pipes are all 1-1/2" and I bet that the drain at the wall is. You would have to take off that no hub coupling at the wall and measure its internal diameter. 1-1/2" PVC is actually a touch over 1.5" inside. As for why the PO used 1-1/4", he's an idiot. If the plumbing work is this bad, I'm going to suspect the electric too. First off, exposed NM is a no-no inside cabinets. It can get damaged with pots banging against it. It will need to be put in conduit or use MC cable instead. Second, I can't see over the edges of those face plates, but I bet the PO didn't use cable clamps in the box knockouts. You know, if you got the switch to the disposal down there and need an outlet for a corded disposal, you could just use one of those switch/single outlet combos along with a new face plate.
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Dec 14, 2018 21:51
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I appreciate all the help. I'll report back when I get time to make the changes. Is there a reason other than stupidity that they used 1 1/4" pipe?
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Dec 14, 2018 22:10
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Because it fits inside 1-1/2?
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Dec 14, 2018 22:10
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Queen Combat posted:Because it fits inside 1-1/2? Oh god. That reminds me of the hack job in my own house. I was wondering why my only bathroom sink was draining slow no matter how much I snaked it. I looked in the cabinet underneath and discovered a gigantic wad of JB Weld at the wall. With no marvel adapter in sight, I started cutting with a hacksaw right there. Inside the 1-1/4" slip joint P, I found... another pipe glued into the lead pipe at the wall! Some PO managed to break the lead drain pipe off at the wall and epoxied in an even smaller PVC pipe as an internal coupler. No wonder it drained so slow! So after chipping open the wall and putting in a proper no hub coupling and appropriate PVC pieces glued together... my drain was still slow. The sink doesn't have an overflow tube in it, so I had to buy a pop up drain that popped up higher.
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Dec 15, 2018 18:39
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