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Furism posted:Man, that's a pretty good discount on that can. Dude. You can’t just randomly compliment somebody’s can.
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Dec 13, 2018 00:37
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Doctor Zero posted:Dude. You can’t just randomly compliment somebody’s can. If they don't want it complemented then they shouldn't leave it out like that.
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Dec 13, 2018 00:38
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R0ckfish posted:A Deff Dread is done! Lots of fun to paint and build, I am definitely gonna paint another of these. This is gorgeous you have a very dramatic painting style.
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Dec 13, 2018 01:05
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Team_q posted:Yeah I had an issue with dog hair, then the old fella died. Sup dead dog buddy? I'm considering buying the road Trailer box and using green stuff to convert the doggo into a hound and making him a tribute model for my boy T. He be The Relic objective marker for my Space Marine chapter...
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Dec 13, 2018 01:32
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NOTE: Big weathering NOT included in box!
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Dec 13, 2018 17:12
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Badablack posted:In my experience flocking is just painting with a different medium, and the same rules apply. Think of the flock like a translucent paint that shows the color beneath. I like using darker colors under my flock, so the flock is like a highlight, and to make it look like exposed dirt in areas where flock is thinner and grass would be trampled and upturned. What do you use as the binder? I used watered down PVA for my first flock job came out less than ideal.
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Dec 13, 2018 17:15
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DrPop posted:NOTE: Big weathering NOT included in box! Crazy they used my titan with such large, out of scale, comic book like weathering to sell models
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Dec 13, 2018 17:26
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Hixson posted:Crazy they used my titan with such large, out of scale, comic book like weathering to sell models Salt can do a real number on paint.
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Dec 13, 2018 17:34
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Get mad or stay bad
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Dec 13, 2018 17:35
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Babbys first paint job questions incoming. Is there an idiots guide to masking off straight lines and stripes that someone could recomend? I'm afraid ill rip off the paint when removing the tape or make some squint line. Also as im sitting here staring at it, how the heck do you paint a tank all over without touching it? Up until now I've primed things by sticking their bases to a cork or pinning them. I've got nothing to hold this by that doesn't need painted, do people just do what they can then let it dry and flip it over to get the bottom?
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Dec 13, 2018 17:38
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Cat Face Joe posted:What do you use as the binder? I used watered down PVA for my first flock job came out less than ideal. Watered down PVA will work fine, but you need a spray bottle to apply it for terrain. Shake well, spray down an even coat, apply flock, let dry, then spray it again to seal it in. Spray between and after every application of more flock. Also no need to really water it down that much. Regular PVA is already mostly water, you just want it in a more sprayable state.
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Dec 13, 2018 17:41
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Does the extra crap in Mod Podge make it better or worse than PVA in this case?
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Dec 13, 2018 18:35
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Mr Teatime posted:Babbys first paint job questions incoming. Is there an idiots guide to masking off straight lines and stripes that someone could recomend? I'm afraid ill rip off the paint when removing the tape or make some squint line. Also as im sitting here staring at it, how the heck do you paint a tank all over without touching it? Up until now I've primed things by sticking their bases to a cork or pinning them. I've got nothing to hold this by that doesn't need painted, do people just do what they can then let it dry and flip it over to get the bottom? Artist's masking tape comes in a variety of adhesive ratings; you want to pick up a "low-adhesive" roll. Your best bet is to go to an art or craft store and start examining the labeling for adhesiveness ratings. Or just buy Tamiya tape, since that's hobby tape developed specifically for masking stuff for painting.
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Dec 13, 2018 19:32
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Mr Teatime posted:Babbys first paint job questions incoming. Is there an idiots guide to masking off straight lines and stripes that someone could recomend? I'm afraid ill rip off the paint when removing the tape or make some squint line. Also as im sitting here staring at it, how the heck do you paint a tank all over without touching it? Up until now I've primed things by sticking their bases to a cork or pinning them. I've got nothing to hold this by that doesn't need painted, do people just do what they can then let it dry and flip it over to get the bottom? Painting straight lines really just boils down to steady hands. I mean sure, there's [url="https://"http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87177_87179/index.htm"]masking tape[/url] that can definitely help if you've got the shakes, but there's always that likelihood of pulling paint off with it (as you mentioned). Best way I've seen people do that kinda stuff is by lightly drawing the lines with pencil, then going back over those with paint. If you want an idea as to how to do that with curves, check google for Lamenters chapter painting tutorials, as they have a check pattern on their left pauldron. As for tonks, if you're really paranoid that you'll rub paint off as you're going over another area, a quick pass of dullcote will cover your rear end in that respect. Usual varnishing/finishing caveats apply, so make sure you're not in the mid-Arctic or sub-Sahara regions, and you should be good.
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Dec 13, 2018 19:41
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Hixson posted:Crazy they used my titan with such large, out of scale, comic book like weathering to sell models Probably in the "How not to paint your model" section on GW, right? Duncan just sadly shaking his head, as a single tear trails down his cheek?
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Dec 13, 2018 20:53
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grassy gnoll posted:Does the extra crap in Mod Podge make it better or worse than PVA in this case? Is that the stuff you spray on puzzles to glue them down? I’m not sure if it would be as effective, part of why you water down what you’re spraying on the flock is because flock is basically just shredded sponge dyed a variety of colors. It absorbs the watered glue as sponges are wont to do, then as the water evaporates it leaves behind the clear glue shell. If it can be watered down then yeah it should work fine since it doesn’t yellow or get weird when it dries/ages.
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Dec 13, 2018 21:47
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So I've finished the Chieftain Troop, my first ever Team Yankee models. I think they turned out okay for my forst ever attempt at 15mm Brirish Cold War armour. Let me know what you think and check out the 360 shots. 360 rotations: https://spinzam.com/shot/embed/?idx=101571 https://spinzam.com/shot/embed/?idx=101572 And some pics    
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Dec 13, 2018 22:06
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big_g posted:So I've finished the Chieftain Troop, my first ever Team Yankee models. I think they turned out okay for my forst ever attempt at 15mm Brirish Cold War armour. Let me know what you think and check out the 360 shots. These are so awesome, great work!  How did you make the camo netting? Gauze?
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Dec 13, 2018 22:58
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:These are so awesome, great work! Thanks very much. Yes it’s medical gauze dipped in dilute PVA coloured with green paint in the mix then draped on. It then conforms and dries nicely. When dried out I just did a couple layers of dry brush.
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Dec 13, 2018 23:06
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Hey judging by the minis posted in this thread y'all know a lot about painting Cool Dudes. Any advice on tools/supplies to get someone who's gotten super into painting Cool Dudes? My housemate has been absolutely consumed by Warhammer 40K mini painting in the last year and for Christmas I wanna help expand and improve his toolkit/supplies. I don't paint models so I don't know what sorts of gadgets make it easier. Like, he has a little clamp-on-a-handle for holding and turning models when he paints them? That kinda thing. I want to equip him to paint the coolest loving robot-knights.
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Dec 14, 2018 04:08
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He probably has all the paints he currently thinks he’ll ever need. Another painting handle could be good, you can never have too many of those. Mixing pots, nice brushes, maybe specialized ones for dry brushing, a painting pot, a cutting board, a basing kit, weathering powders, micron pens, there’s lots of little hobby tools one can always use.
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Dec 14, 2018 04:26
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You know where he's at better than we do. Effects powders, Vallejo basing gel, GF9 basing material are usually solid. If he's relatively new to the hobby and you don't think he has them (poke around a little when you're at his place, the bottles are pretty big and don't look like pots), matte medium, glaze medium, and flow improver are always good. If he already has those, a #1 kolinsky sable brush plus brush soap. If you want to spend more, a dual action gravity feed airbrush ($100ish for a good one). If you want to spend a lot, add a compression. Also, dental tools from Amazon plus a roll of green stuff is great.
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Dec 14, 2018 04:41
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They did just come out with an XL model of the Citadel Good lighting is also a useful upgrade.
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Dec 14, 2018 04:41
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If you don't mind waiting a couple weeks you can get them cheap from China. I got this model and it works well. And if you buy two at once you can save a whole .70! Too good of a deal to pass up https://www.ebay.com/itm/BZBRLZ-3-L...ZyLko:rk:1:pf:0 
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Dec 14, 2018 04:52
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What can I do about (mostly) dried-out paint? My wife has a small pot of flesh-colored paint from her Paint By Numbers boxed kits that I'm using, and I've just been dabbing a little water on it to get some paint into the bristles and that kinda sorta works, but I'd like to know if there's anything particular I can do to salvage it truly.
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Dec 14, 2018 06:36
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You can't really go wrong buying him a nice brush, can you? Figure out what he uses and buy a "better" one (this is subjective) or the same one. He'll need it eventually!
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Dec 14, 2018 14:14
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Further questions in beginner painting, If im applying a wash thats been thinned down with white spirit do I 100% need to apply a varnish coat before doing so? If I don't will I be damaging the previous paint layers and plastic? Also the spirit I've got is just stuff I picked up at homebase, is it all the same concentration or is stuff for models more diluted?
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Dec 14, 2018 17:23
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Why are you thinning acrylics with neutral spirits? It's not the worst thing you can do, but I'd start over with distilled water if you can.
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Dec 14, 2018 18:50
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Personally, I always varnish prior to oils. The varnish does two things. First it protects the paint that you spent so much time on. Secondly, it provides a uniform finish for the model. If the surface of your model is rough in some areas (i.e. matte) and smooth in others (i.e. glossy), your oil paint could behave differently across those areas. The smoother the surface, the more your oils will run to the edges. The rougher, the more they will color/remain on flat surfaces. Edit: I am assuming you are talking about oil paints and white spirits.
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Dec 14, 2018 18:53
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Yeah Dexefiend has it. The varnish is mostly to protect your paint job. I’ve rubbed off paint before by accident in the past. White spirit is pretty harsh
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Dec 14, 2018 19:33
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Mold line removal tool is also a really solid quality of life upgrade if they don't have it. You can google what it looks like it's really distinctive.
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Dec 14, 2018 19:44
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Yeah ive got an enamel wash and plan on giving oil a go too. So varnish is the way to go beforehand then. Ill probably make a hash out of it anyway.
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Dec 14, 2018 23:15
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What you need to think about most with enamels and it's thinners together with acrylics is of the acrylics has had enough time to dry. If you are like me, a dad with limited hobby time and a spastic focus, then you're probably applying three was over paint that has been drying for days/weeks/months. Then it should be no problem. But the shorter time the paint has had to dry and set, the more careful you should be.
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Dec 15, 2018 20:16
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Klir/Klear/Whatever The Name Is These Days is dirt cheap and supposedly works very well for that sort of things. Also it dries super fast. I leave it overnight and never had a problem, but it's not like I painted dozens of figurines so YMMV.
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Dec 15, 2018 22:07
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Does anyone have any magnets they swear by for magnetizing weapon options? The stronger the better, i'm ideally trying to magnetize a Deff Dread arm to switch out ranged wrapon options. Probably looking for 4mm diameter, possibly 6mm? Thanks in advance.
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Dec 15, 2018 22:19
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The Jumpoff posted:Does anyone have any magnets they swear by for magnetizing weapon options? The stronger the better, i'm ideally trying to magnetize a Deff Dread arm to switch out ranged wrapon options. Probably looking for 4mm diameter, possibly 6mm? Thanks in advance. You want neodymium n52 discs of whatever size you need. I use 5mm x 1mm or 2mm for a lot of vehicle things.
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Dec 15, 2018 22:46
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I've used the magnet barron a few times and like their service
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Dec 15, 2018 22:58
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Magnet Baron is nice because the have kits for specific applications, but if you want something they don't offer you need K&J Magnetics, best selection and great prices.
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Dec 15, 2018 23:40
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Thanks for the great answers, i'm excited to get magnetizing after the holidays now.
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Dec 15, 2018 23:48
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Is MDF scrap recyclable or does it have to go into the trash? I just got a load of MDF stuff from TTCombat but I'm wondering about all the scrap left over from punching the pieces out of their frames.
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Dec 16, 2018 17:25
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