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Pyrolocutus posted:Is MDF scrap recyclable or does it have to go into the trash? I just got a load of MDF stuff from TTCombat but I'm wondering about all the scrap left over from punching the pieces out of their frames. Broadly speaking, no. The chemicals in it make recycling difficult, and most of the time it goes into a landfill. However, it's been proposed that recycled fiberboard sawdust can be applied to agricultural land, so it's probably a good idea to check your area to see if there's a way to recycle it. If you're in the UK, it might already be recyclable, but you'd have to dig further than me to find out for sure. If not, you can always hang on to the scraps and use it for projects or basing. Just be careful when cutting it and wear a respirator.
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Dec 16, 2018 17:59
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Slimnoid posted:Broadly speaking, no. The chemicals in it make recycling difficult, and most of the time it goes into a landfill. However, it's been proposed that recycled fiberboard sawdust can be applied to agricultural land, so it's probably a good idea to check your area to see if there's a way to recycle it. If you're in the UK, it might already be recyclable, but you'd have to dig further than me to find out for sure. Yeah, I was afraid of that. Some Googling popped up some stuff from 2013 about "recyclable" MDF showing up in the UK, so I was wondering if that was a thing now. Recycling where I am doesn't seem to take fiberboard, so into the trash it goes I guess. E: I already have balsa and other materials, so I don't think I'm going to mess with respirator et al.
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Dec 16, 2018 18:38
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Cross posting from other thread. Pure white is indeed very troublesome to work with, although a pot of Ceramite stayed nicely smooth (unlike Skull White).
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Dec 16, 2018 19:15
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I got some progress done on my Ultramar sigil while sitting at home with a fever all day. I really hosed up by aligning the pattern to the left edge of the shield, but I'm reasonably pleased with it otherwise. I think I can save it by either adding a black edge to the white border or painting the border gold. I've been thinking of adding a laurel beneath the golden eagle, but holding off on that until I have the bird in place.
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Dec 16, 2018 21:26
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Crossposting from the 40k thread:Inspector_666 posted:Also finished up this pretty, good-smelling boy: And another detail shot of the gut gears which I think look really cool for some reason:  Anybody got any tips on how to make the stuff in the tank look better? Was thinking about maybe hitting the window with some 'Ard Coat. EDIT: Also poo poo, just noticed some drips under the gears that can probably use some Nurgle's Rot.
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Dec 16, 2018 21:37
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Inspector_666 posted:Crossposting from the 40k thread: The... Cracks? Scratches? on the class could probably do with more highlighting.
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Dec 16, 2018 21:40
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Cthulu Carl posted:The... Cracks? Scratches? on the class could probably do with more highlighting. Yeah, I was thinking they need something, there's nothing there now, what you're seeing is the actual light bouncing off. EDIT: Would I hit that with straight-up white, or gray? Or something like Pallid Wych Flesh? Inspector_666 fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Dec 17, 2018 |
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Dec 16, 2018 21:43
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I added the aquila, and I'm pretty pleased with how it looks. Does it need anything more? Less white? Stronger dividing line between the pattern and the white border?   The pictures suck, sorry. There's very little sunlight around these parts this time of the year. At least they're huge enough to show all the flaws. 
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Dec 17, 2018 15:16
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Hey quick question, I've always used vallejo 72.002 white primer as my primer of choice. Now they've changed the name to arctic white, is it still a primer? I would have thought if it was a primer, they'd mention that in the name somewhere. Though then again keeping the same colour code but changing from primer to regular paint also sounds odd.
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Dec 17, 2018 16:28
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Captain Hair posted:Hey quick question, I've always used vallejo 72.002 white primer as my primer of choice. Now they've changed the name to arctic white, is it still a primer? I dunno, I use the ones labeled "Vallejo Surface Primer"
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Dec 17, 2018 16:34
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Aren't some of Vallejo's paints named 'primer' just regular acrylic paint but rather to match the color of a primer for military models?
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Dec 17, 2018 16:54
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darnon posted:Aren't some of Vallejo's paints named 'primer' just regular acrylic paint but rather to match the color of a primer for military models? Yes, though they're typically in the model color line rather than the game color line like 72.002. I'd suggest sending vallejo an email asking about it.
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Dec 17, 2018 16:55
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Inspector_666 posted:Yeah, I was thinking they need something, there's nothing there now, what you're seeing is the actual light bouncing off. One option would be to look the picture you took and paint on the light how it hits the tank in your photo. Could be difficult though. Another would be to hit the bottom edges of the cracks with grey and then do a bit of white at the corners where the cracks cross each other. Then on the slime I'd start by mixing your green and then some yellow 1:1 and hit the top 1/4 of it. It wouldn't have to be neat. Then do the top edge with 2:1 yellow to green. Thinner at the left and right side and thicker in middle.
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Dec 17, 2018 20:40
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I have airbrush woes. My old reliable brush had a part failure. Any tips on how to remove the threads stuck inside after my nozzle broke? https://i.imgur.com/XRMs29W.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3DbahBQ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/PM6tL3N.jpg I also have one of these https://i.imgur.com/olHINJY.jpg The issue is that I have never been able to successfully use it. Every time I try air bubbles come back up through the cup. I have no clue what to do to remedy this problem. Otherwise it is been completely unused and therefore shouldn’t have any parts that have failed as far as I know. Any suggestions to either problem? E: update. Got the threads out with a tiny slotted screwdriver. E2: any good Canadian sources for iwata replacement parts? Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Dec 18, 2018 |
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Dec 18, 2018 00:30
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Indolent Bastard posted:Every time I try air bubbles come back up through the cup. I have no clue what to do to remedy this problem. Air bubbles coming up through the cup usually means airflow is restricted in the tip. Blockage of some kind or issue with the needle tip. For Canadian parts: https://hobbywholesale.com/ They're located in Edmonton. Good service and shipping isn't too bad.
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Dec 18, 2018 02:53
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Anyone have any good tips/videos for painting Flesh? I've never been good at it. I painted my Steelheart's Champions recently and I accidentally hosed up this guy's eyes really bad, and his lower jaw doesn't blend well. I hit it with another wash (GW's Sepia I think?) and then used a better brush for the eyes:  But now he's way too dark. I could try to lighten him up a little, but I don't really want to spend more time on this 1 model when I've got plenty more Stormcast to paint - so I'm more just looking for advice on painting flesh going forward (rather than how to salvage this mess) e; I think my steps were: A mix of: Pale Flesh + Cork Brown + Red + White Wash Highlight with the above combination Then since I hosed up the eyes, re-wash and tried to highlight a little bit but couldn't quite get the color right Sab669 fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Dec 18, 2018 |
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Dec 18, 2018 19:26
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Sab669 posted:Anyone have any good tips/videos for painting Flesh? I've never been good at it. Easiest flesh is: Bugmans, Cadian, Thinned Reikland (Medium works well) Kislev Highlights. For eyes, put a drop of Drakenhoff in the sockets, then attempt to do the off white for the pupils (Ulthuan/Screaming Skull). If it messes up, just reapply Drakenhoff and try again. These are all pretty much painted the same way (The Ogre's eyes are supposed to be that of a lobotomised puppet)   This one is Cadian, Kislev, thinned VMC Purple Shadow (like stupidly thinned to almost invisible), Ushabti Highlights 
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Dec 18, 2018 19:39
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Question about paint/hobby supply storage solutions. I used to have a tall, large plastic storage solution with multiple drawers, on wheels, had it for probably a decade before damage / moving made it unusable. The top drawers swung out rather than pulled out, and were just deep enough to fit Citadel paints. Probably 3 feet tall, foot and a half square. Black plastic. I was able to store paints, brushes, hobby supplies, all kinds of things. I have searched online but can't find anything similar. Does anyone have any ideas where I could find something similar? My mom didn't remember where she got it (it was a birthday gift as a teenager). It's in this photo:  Thanks!
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Dec 18, 2018 20:51
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I would try Dick Blick, it looks sort of like an artist's taboret.
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Dec 18, 2018 23:09
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I over-dullcoted something and it's gone satin/glossy. What do. I've hit it with another light pass of dullcote, but not seeing much change. I've never really had this issue before.
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Dec 19, 2018 01:37
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Enentol posted:I over-dullcoted something and it's gone satin/glossy. What do. Hit it with another layer of Dullcote but from a fresh spray can, and make sure to shake the hell out of it for like a full minute before spraying?
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Dec 19, 2018 01:45
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Stephenls posted:Hit it with another layer of Dullcote but from a fresh spray can, and make sure to shake the hell out of it for like a full minute before spraying? Yeah, the new pass was from a new can, after having warmed it and shaken it for a few minutes like crazy. I guess I'll give this a day to completely cure and hit it again tomorrow.
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Dec 19, 2018 01:48
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Hey Guys! I am pretty much an absolute beginner while I am finishing up my second model I was wondering if you guys can tell if I am thinning my paints properly. It looks decent in person but when I take pictures of the model the paint does seem not to be as smooth as it could be.
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Dec 19, 2018 05:26
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It's not unusual to be loved by Gulliman It's not unusual to have fun with Gulliman But when I see you hanging about with Abaddon
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Dec 19, 2018 05:55
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T___A posted:Hey Guys! I am pretty much an absolute beginner while I am finishing up my second model I was wondering if you guys can tell if I am thinning my paints properly. It looks decent in person but when I take pictures of the model the paint does seem not to be as smooth as it could be. First, white is straight dildos to paint, don't let anyone ever tell you otherwise. However, what you've got now isn't terrible, but as you probably thought, it is a little thicker than it should be. Honestly, I've used both Ceramite White and White Scar, and I'd recommend Ceramite White when doing any sort of white anything (armor, robes, whatever). Yes, it's technically a "base" paint, but that just means you can thin it way more than "layer" paints and still have a decent amount of pigment, and white is definitely a color you want to have as thin and smooth as possible. You'd actually be surprised how thin you can go with the Ceramite and still have it be usable. I'll also recommend starting with an off-white (Celestra Grey, Rakarth Flesh, maybe Ionrach Skin?), depending upon the rest of your color scheme, and go up to white, rather than try and start right from white and shade down. There's also a little bit of color bleeding here and there; the pauldron trim, kneepad, left hand, gun body under the plasma coil, and gun stock where it hits the pauldron all have a little bit of another color on them that they shouldn't. All in all, a good start, you just need to tighten up your paint placement and thin your paint a little more, but that's something you'll get a feel for as you paint more. If you're a visual learner, I'd not only recommend Duncan's videos on Warhammer TV, but also Sorastro's various game painting guides. While Duncan is obviously geared towards GW games, Sorastro also has some decent videos as well, and he tends to use GW colors without trying to shill at you. In other news, more mini 'hams.   Reworked the shield rune to stand out a bit better. A hero/command unit, with Swordmasters of Hoeth.    Close-up of the shield freehand. Hands still suck to paint. Second Swordmasters hero/command unit.    Better shot of shield freehand. A full unit of Swordmasters of Hoeth.    Focus on the command stand, with reworked freehand on the shield and banner.   And the rank-and-file Swordmasters. Working on some Shadow Warriors right now, then maybe bang out another hero or two while I start on the Dragon Rider.
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Dec 19, 2018 08:39
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Crosspostin'EAThief posted:Haven't painted in ages but these Primaris Marines were calling to me, so here are the Amethyst Paladins (AKA the Easter Marines[AKA the PASTEL BIG BOYS])
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Dec 19, 2018 08:43
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gradenko_2000 posted:What can I do about (mostly) dried-out paint? My wife has a small pot of flesh-colored paint from her Paint By Numbers boxed kits that I'm using, and I've just been dabbing a little water on it to get some paint into the bristles and that kinda sorta works, but I'd like to know if there's anything particular I can do to salvage it truly. You can try mixing airbrush medium or water in to reconstitute the paint, but once acrylic goes, it's gone. Also, please don't tell us you're using Paint by Numbers paints for miniatures.
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Dec 19, 2018 14:37
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berzerkmonkey posted:Also, please don't tell us you're using Paint by Numbers paints for miniatures. only the flesh one because I only just recently found an FLGS that sells Citadel paints ... and technically they're the cheapo army men toys. I want to paint a couple of squads for practice and confidence and make sure I have all the kit I need before I buy a warhams starter kit I imagine I'm still really bad at this, but here's the last one I did (next to an unpainted figure) 
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Dec 19, 2018 14:46
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Holy poo poo guys, Army Painter has an Ogryn Flesh equivalent
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Dec 19, 2018 14:57
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Booley posted:Yes, though they're typically in the model color line rather than the game color line like 72.002. I emailed them (no reply yet but it's Christmas time so expect it to take a while) but yeah, looks like I've been using a base coat of white paint as a primer on everything I've ever painted... I mean, I guess if it works then no harm done?
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Dec 19, 2018 15:55
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Ok so when it comes to mixing up custom colors, how do folks measure the inputs? I want to lighten up a gray for my AdMech's pants, but I'm currently just using stuff right out of the GW jars and eyeballing the mixture seems like a great way to end up with a whole army of different shades. Do I just need to transfer stuff to dropper bottle and count drips or what? Inspector_666 fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Dec 19, 2018 |
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Dec 19, 2018 17:23
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I primarily use Vallejo paints, which come in droppers, but for P3 / GW paints I just have a specific brush I use to scoop out some paint. It's not 100% accurate, and it's a bit wasteful because I often don't need an entire scoop's worth, but it's a lot easier than transferring everything to dropper bottles.
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Dec 19, 2018 17:32
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I have not tried it myself, but what about using a weed scale to measure the exact weight of each color you are using in the mix?
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Dec 19, 2018 17:46
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Mikey Purp posted:I have not tried it myself, but what about using a weed scale to measure the exact weight of each color you are using in the mix? I was thinking about using my food scale to do that but I dunno if it's sensitive enough, I guess I'll test it when I get a dropper bottle I can mix 'em in.
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Dec 19, 2018 17:48
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Gilgameshback posted:I would try Dick Blick, it looks sort of like an artist's taboret. Thank you! I was able to find it and god dammit I should have tried to repair it, I did not realize how expensive these things are.
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Dec 19, 2018 17:51
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My guess is that a food scale would not be sensitive enough, although you could make a bigger pot and then you'd probably have measurements to recreate it when you run out.
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Dec 19, 2018 17:52
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Inspector_666 posted:Ok so when it comes to mixing up custom colors, how do folks measure the inputs? I want to lighten up a gray for my AdMech's pants, but I'm currently just using stuff right out of the GW jars and eyeballing the mixture seems like a great way to end up with a whole army of different shades. I just use drops. Also I've got all my Citadel stuff transferred to dropper bottles.
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Dec 19, 2018 21:15
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Thats not a bad theory but the problem with those mans is that they're just lumpy plastic with no details. The best thing you ciuld do is to learn about paint consistency/coverage, AKA 2 thin coats, but using gatbo paint will not really help that. Stephenls posted:I just use drops. For large amounts i mix up a full dropper bottle and mark the quantities on the side.
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Dec 19, 2018 22:05
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I'm fitting to paint some warmachine minis with a digital camo scheme. Do people usually shade/highlight each color? All the tutorials I've seen online have you use Color A, Color B, Color C then they move on. The camo looks good, but they look kind of flat because they're just flat base coats. What do?
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Dec 20, 2018 05:41
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Inspector_666 posted:I was thinking about using my food scale to do that but I dunno if it's sensitive enough, I guess I'll test it when I get a dropper bottle I can mix 'em in. It probably won't. You want something with more resolution, like the aforementioned "weed scale" - these deal with grams, not dozens or hundred of grams like the kitchen ones do!
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Dec 20, 2018 09:10
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