|
devicenull posted:Ubiquiti uses a weird non-standard passive 24V POE Yea this is the blind dumb injector that apparently does neogitiate.
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2018 23:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 01:51 |
|
|
devicenull posted:Ubiquiti uses a weird non-standard passive 24V POE Yeah i thought that 48v was their weird non standard and 24v was at/af and got those mixed up. Downside to this passive poe is you might need a DC-DC power supply at the LED strip. They do make 24v LED strips but the passive poe actually outputs 25.5v it looks like.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2018 00:34
|
|
|
BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:Yeah i thought that 48v was their weird non standard and 24v was at/af and got those mixed up. This started after I saw the online RF receiver and driver supported 5-24v.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2018 00:39
|
|
|
You’re probably fine then. 1.5v over is going to sag the instant you put a load on it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2018 01:12
|
|
|
I am planning to run an AC 5050 LED strip in a channel across a lip in my outdoor kitchen. This lip is for a bar-height counter that overlooks a kitchen-height counter. It's there to help illuminate cooking. These two levels run parallel to each other. The circuit is inside the bar-height counter. I have to punch through the few inches of siding I have to provide the power. The difference in heights is small and mostly taken by 2x4s so I can't easily just punch a box there. The LED strip just takes a two prong cable. I'm using PVC for everything right now. What are my options? Is there some kind of small electrical box I could try to mount instead? At the moment I'm inclined to just punch some conduit out right at the end of the strip and have the wire run inside with some goofy sealer. This could get some water in it so I'm not too keen on it. Edit: An image  I think I technically can cram a box in that scape; I previously had one in there. The problem is the outlet plate would have to be trimmed back and the whole mess would be flush with the kitchen counter. That means water could easily get into it. Rocko Bonaparte fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Dec 22, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2018 18:39
|
|
|
You can run 12V wire wherever, drill holes to run it to near a box, have an outlet there, with a power brick plugged into it and the 12V wire going to the brick. Would that work?
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2018 20:45
|
|
|
Is that area accessible from a cabinet or something? If you've got an outlet in there get one of these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LED...d4-ae9e3f2861ef and a plug, mount the power supply in the cabinet and you should be good to go.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2018 21:35
|
|
|
The AC 5050 is 120V. It takes regular US household power. I thought all AC 5050s were like that so I didn't specify. So I am not working with 12V with a transformer. Also, when I turn it on, UFOs descend and try to communicate with it. poo poo is bright. I am bouncing it off my counter so it is actually perfect that way. Edit: Default course of action here is to change the external single-gang box on the side of the kitchen to a double-gang and connect the light circuit to that--aesthetics be damned. I think anything else I jury rig won't be hold up and will look uglier. Rocko Bonaparte fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Dec 23, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2018 23:45
|
|
|
Is there a variety or brand of christmas lights I can buy that doesn't lose a third of the string when one single bulb burns out? I would like to not have to ever deal with that poo poo again in TYOOL 2018++
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2018 01:46
|
|
|
Javid posted:Is there a variety or brand of christmas lights I can buy that doesn't lose a third of the string when one single bulb burns out? I would like to not have to ever deal with that poo poo again in TYOOL 2018++ No but led strings are less likely to have that happen.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2018 02:18
|
|
|
Yeah, they go by various names but the one that comes to mind is "stay lit". Been out for at least several years. Note that cheap xmas lights won't have this feature. https://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-Stay-Lit-Platinum-Outdoor-Christmas/dp/B01LZPZGC4
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2018 12:24
|
|
|
That thing plugs in and takes 3 AAAs? I don't really get how that works but I'll take it over the alternative.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2018 18:22
|
|
|
I'm looking to install a GFCI/AFCI combo receptacle in my bedroom for an aquarium, I've never installed an outlet before and I have a few questions. Some info up front, the circuit is on a 20 amp breaker, I'm unsure if the receptacle I want to replace is first in line, I want to wire it in such a way that only that specific receptacle is protected. From my research I've learned that you have to use the pigtail method if I want to isolate the outlet. I noticed that this Leviton outlet has channels for 2 wires per post, is that so that you can isolate it without the use of wire nuts? Is it necessary to determine where this receptacle is in the circuit if I don't want to protect any other outlets? I've noted the safety procedures for installing an outlet, and I'm going to pick up a non-contact voltage tester and GFCI tester as well. I'll be cutting the power and taking some photos of the outlet in question later today, and I'll use the voltage tester to determine if it's the first in the circuit. Google Butt fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Dec 23, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2018 21:45
|
|
|
Google Butt posted:...2 wires per post, is that so that you can isolate it without the use of wire nuts? Is it necessary to determine where this receptacle is in the circuit if I don't want to protect any other outlets? You can pigtail it or land both wires on the line side of the gfi. This will gfi protect only this outlet and make no difference to anything else on this circuit.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2018 01:02
|
|
|
Javid posted:Is there a variety or brand of christmas lights I can buy that doesn't lose a third of the string when one single bulb burns out? I would like to not have to ever deal with that poo poo again in TYOOL 2018++ GE brands this specific functionality as "ConstantON". They come in a variety of different colors/sizes -- I've got a few strings of these for outside and have never had a single problem going on four years now: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Energy-Smart-Colorite-50-Light-LED-Multi-Color-C9-Light-Set-97765HD/203267284 Mini Bulbs: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Energy-Smart-Colorite-50-Light-LED-Warm-White-Mini-Light-Set-97116HD/203267276 fake-edit: This is a good view of their product line. https://shop.geholidaylighting.com/ It makes it appear like ConstantOn is specifically their incandescent bulbs , but I definitely see the branding on LEDs. The LED "StayBright" feature seems similar? v  v
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2018 02:47
|
|
|
Hubis posted:GE brands this specific functionality as "ConstantON". They come in a variety of different colors/sizes -- I've got a few strings of these for outside and have never had a single problem going on four years now: I have a bunch of the ConstantOn GE LED bulbs, they're pretty good for what they are. The ConstantOn ones are the ones with the green label, vs the blue label, which is their bottom shelf variety. A note: in incandescent varieties, the only difference between ConstantOn (green label) and StayBright (blue label) is how they fail. But with LEDs, there's another difference: the cheaper ones have the 60hz flicker, which drives me nuts, personally. If you notice that and it bugs you, stick to the ConstantOn line when buying LED strings. They also seem to be a bit brighter (probably just because of the duty cycle difference.) That being said, if you want to do it right, buy bulk strings and get screw in LED bulbs. The strings come in rolls of like 100, 200, 500 feet, and you can just clip them to whatever length you want and tape the end up. You can buy them in whatever socket spacing you want: 6", 8", 12", whatever. They come with empty sockets, and you just buy bulbs to screw in. The bulbs take 120V directly, so they are all wired in parallel, which means no bulb's survival affects another, and the wire is just the two conductors in a single bonded bundle, like a lamp cord (but rated for exterior use, like landscape lighting wire). For terminating the hot end, you just slap a little vampire plug on there, or put a typical extension cord plug on that you can get for a couple bucks at any hardware store. The bulbs are also much more robust. These bulbs are designed to be a drop-in replacement for the old incandescent bulbs, so the only thing you're doing different is swapping out bulb tech. This is how the professionals do their light installs, by buying that empty socket wire in bulk, cutting to length, and installing whatever bulbs the customer likes. The bulk wiring is also generally heavier duty (check the grades, you want SPT2 I think? I forget on that one) so it'll stand up to more seasons of use, and can carry more current, which means longer single runs. Oh, and the lights are waaaay brighter, like 10w bulbs instead of .7w or whatever. You can also get extra sockets that just vampire on to the blank wire if you need to do something weird. So many options! I didn't look into this until after I had all my lights up this year. Don't be like me and buy a bunch of (okay for what they are) LED Christmas lights; instead, channel your inner Clark Griswold and install commercial grade bulk LED lights. As an example, here's a hundred feet of blank cord with 6" spacing C9 sockets, that'll maybe get you started: https://www.christmas-light-source.com/100-foot-c9-christmas-light-cord-6-inch-spacing-green-wire Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Dec 24, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2018 04:05
|
|
|
Rocko Bonaparte posted:The AC 5050 is 120V. It takes regular US household power. I thought all AC 5050s were like that so I didn't specify. So I am not working with 12V with a transformer. I personally hate AC LED strips (Also LED Christmas lights) because they’re almost always half wave and the 60hz flicker hurts my eyes. I’d just get a 12 or 24v DC strand if it were me
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2018 04:41
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:But with LEDs, there's another difference: the cheaper ones have the 60hz flicker, which drives me nuts, personally. How do these not do the 60hz flicker? I hate you for showing me this.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2018 04:47
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:How do these not do the 60hz flicker? I'm guessing full bridge rectifiers.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2018 04:50
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:I'm guessing full bridge rectifiers. So they take the 120v as DC instead? He said they take the 120v directly which made me think they were on AC at the diode.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2018 05:22
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:So they take the 120v as DC instead? He said they take the 120v directly which made me think they were on AC at the diode. Apparently it has an 8A inverter according to the product notes. So I just looked at the chunk it was talking about and right near the plug it's there. The prong end has an "AC" label and the light end has a "DC" label. I'm now really happy I looked at this. My wife was trying to convince me to just castrate the cable, run it through a hole in the outdoor kitchen, and splice it into a box inside. If I had done that, I wouldn't be worrying about a 60 Hertz flicker, I'd be worrying about a one hurt flash.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2018 07:15
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:I have a bunch of the ConstantOn GE LED bulbs, they're pretty good for what they are. The ConstantOn ones are the ones with the green label, vs the blue label, which is their bottom shelf variety. A note: in incandescent varieties, the only difference between ConstantOn (green label) and StayBright (blue label) is how they fail. But with LEDs, there's another difference: the cheaper ones have the 60hz flicker, which drives me nuts, personally. If you notice that and it bugs you, stick to the ConstantOn line when buying LED strings. They also seem to be a bit brighter (probably just because of the duty cycle difference.) This post is the thing I always determine to do in January, forget about until November, and then in December decide it is too late to do until next year.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2018 15:28
|
|
|
Hubis posted:This post is the thing I always determine to do in January, forget about until November, and then in December decide it is too late to do until next year. That post is what I came up with doing precisely what you’ve described.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2018 17:13
|
|
|
Google Butt posted:I'm looking to install a GFCI/AFCI combo receptacle in my bedroom for an aquarium, I've never installed an outlet before and I have a few questions. If you don't want to protect other outlets, then no, it's not necessary to determine where it is on its circuit. As long as you only use the line terminals of the outlet and don't even touch the load terminals, no further protection will be granted. And yes, that's what the 2 slots on the screw down plates are for: attaching 2 wires to one screw. Now if you ignore that plate and loop the wire around the screw, then you can only attach one wire there.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2018 18:39
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:If you don't want to protect other outlets, then no, it's not necessary to determine where it is on its circuit. As long as you only use the line terminals of the outlet and don't even touch the load terminals, no further protection will be granted. And yes, that's what the 2 slots on the screw down plates are for: attaching 2 wires to one screw. Now if you ignore that plate and loop the wire around the screw, then you can only attach one wire there. Cool, thanks for the confirmation. Question about AFCI, if I have the outlet isolated, then my space heater up stream on the same circuit definitely will not trip it? Just looking for a sanity check before I put my fish's lives in the hands of my space heater.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2018 00:29
|
|
|
I’m no electric expert so I’m looking for a little help. Home is a 1956 build. Home inspector noted knob and tube and non metallic sheathed wiring. Kitchens and bathrooms have been gutted and redone, so I’m presuming that they’ve been rewired with the romex I see at the breaker box, but I’d verify. 200 amp main breaker and 50 amp aux breaker. Bathrooms and kitchen have GFCI outlets but otherwise 2 prong outlets throughout. I can see some K&T in the attic but unsure if they’re live. My question - is it possible to tell the wiring type (k&t, cloth covered wire, etc) based on what I can see at the breaker? Trying to figure out what I’m looking at to update the electric. It’s a 2 story with a basement, so maybe rewiring may not be a total nightmare if it comes to that? I guess the first floor ceiling fixtures would be the biggest pain.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2018 20:34
|
|
|
Well, my MWBC with two 20 amp legs feeding two dedicated outlets is installed and my house has not burned down. The only issue I ran into is the grounding screw wouldn't fit in any of the holes in my metal box. However looking online it *appears* it's OK to use self grounding outlets, pigtail the grounds, and ground the outlets themselves. The EMT will end up grounding by way of the self grounding outlets. Is that right? Or do I need to get a grounding clip that I also saw people were suggesting online?
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2018 15:11
|
|
|
Alright. I just got my big UPS. According to the spec sheet this UPS is supposed to have a 20 amp plug on it. However it looks like someone installed an aftermarket plug at some point: This looks like a 15 amp plug to me. Is that right? The input is supposed to be a NEMA 5-20p. If it is a 15 amp plug am I safe to use it. Or should I go pick up an aftermarket 5-20p and swap them out?
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2018 16:15
|
|
|
Comrade Gritty posted:Alright. I just got my big UPS. According to the spec sheet this UPS is supposed to have a 20 amp plug on it. However it looks like someone installed an aftermarket plug at some point: Embossed into the white plastic is the plug rating. Looking at yours it seems like it's above the straight blades and says 15a-125v. I would swap it out to the correct plug. It's really easy, Hubbell ones are literally all philips screws start to finish.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2018 16:27
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Embossed into the white plastic is the plug rating. Looking at yours it seems like it's above the straight blades and says 15a-125v. I would swap it out to the correct plug. It's really easy, Hubbell ones are literally all philips screws start to finish. Ah didn’t notice that. Thanks. I guess I’ll run to the store later today and pick one up before I plug this in.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2018 16:30
|
|
|
big crush on Chad OMG posted:I’m no electric expert so I’m looking for a little help. It's hard to tell what the entire run is based on what you see at the breaker. If something has been spliced then elsewhere then you'll have no idea. It's against code to splice into/extend knob and tube but that doesn't mean that it wasn't done anyways. If you've got two prong outlets and see knob and tube then it's probably live. Get a cheap non-contact tester to verify. Just replace it, it'll be worth the pain in the long run. I was in a similar situation to you, my house was built in 1910 with two floors and a basement, and had a single remaining K&T circuit that fed the first floor ceiling fixtures. In my situation this was fine because i ripped out the badly cracking plaster ceilings. Comrade Gritty posted:Well, my MWBC with two 20 amp legs feeding two dedicated outlets is installed and my house has not burned down. A lot of times boxes come with the screw already installed, or there is a raised "bubble" which is where you screw in your pigtail 
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2018 18:44
|
|
|
BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:It's hard to tell what the entire run is based on what you see at the breaker. If something has been spliced then elsewhere then you'll have no idea. It's against code to splice into/extend knob and tube but that doesn't mean that it wasn't done anyways. Thanks. I'm leaning toward this as the house will be empty and I can finagle a bit of time in corporate housing to get the work done. I'm thinking I may be able to do some of the wire fishing myself to save labor. There is quite a bit of recessed lighting on the first floor, so hopefully I can pop some of those out to aid in getting the romex ran across to update the light fixtures just by virtue of having easier access. Second floor should be easier as I can go up into the attic then drop down into the walls and ceiling fixtures. First floor outlets I can hit from underneath. There is a plaster ceiling in part of the basement which I think will be the biggest obstacle, everything else in the house is drywall.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2018 20:13
|
|
|
Does your wire run have to be in conduit to install the dual gfci/afci outlets?
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2018 20:27
|
|
|
big crush on Chad OMG posted:Thanks. I'm leaning toward this as the house will be empty and I can finagle a bit of time in corporate housing to get the work done. I'm thinking I may be able to do some of the wire fishing myself to save labor. Real talk ripping out plaster is a huge pain in the rear end. It's heavy as all hell so you'll need a dumpster, and it's even messier than you imagine. I'd do it again but boy I was not prepared for the amount of work I had ahead of me. Google Butt posted:Does your wire run have to be in conduit to install the dual gfci/afci outlets? No. Comrade Gritty ran his in conduit because it was in an unfinished basement and romex is not suitable when subject to physical damage.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2018 22:19
|
|
|
BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:Real talk ripping out plaster is a huge pain in the rear end. It's heavy as all hell so you'll need a dumpster, and it's even messier than you imagine. I'd do it again but boy I was not prepared for the amount of work I had ahead of me. It’s all drywall except the basement ceiling, thankfully.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2018 01:42
|
|
|
https://www.nydailynews.com/new-york/nyc-crime/ny-metro-reports-explosion-con-edison-facility-queens-20181227-story.html
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2018 04:51
|
|
|
Crossposting from the quick questions thread: I'm trying to hook up a rackmountable uninterruptible power supply that has a NEMA L5-30P power cord. I have a straight blade NEMA 14-30R outlet in my basement that I'd like to use, but I can't find anything compatible. I bought a "Parkworld 884913 Generator Adapter twist lock 30A L14-30P Male to L5-30R Female" but it has curved connectors on the male end. (Other thread suggests the "L" stands for locking, i.e. curved.) Is there a reason the straight blade plug adapters are hard to find? Is this an incompatible setup because the outlet is 220V? I seriously doubt the UPS will ever actually draw 30A, since I'm just hooking up <1000 VA---is it safe to adapt it to a standard 5-20P on its own 15A breaker? Here's some photos of what I'm babbling about : https://imgur.com/a/NTRMQCl
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2018 01:46
|
|
|
What is the UPS you're trying to hook up? Any chance it can run on 240V? Assuming not, it seems like the better choices here would be to either change the breaker and receptacle to single pole / 120V receptacle and abandon one of the wires, or maaaaaybe replace the receptacle with a subpanel.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2018 02:22
|
|
|
Greatest Living Man posted:Is this an incompatible setup because the outlet is 220V? Basically, yes. NEMA plugs are designed to make it impossible to get voltage and current ratings wrong. The safe answer here is: the UPS can draw 30A, its internals are rated for 30A, you should connect it to a circuit that's safe providing 30A. That plug in your basement is 30A on a 2-pole breaker with a neutral and ground. If you replace its breaker with two single-pole 30A breakers and a pair of 30A outlets, that would be ideal. A "this isn't a completely terrible idea" is to find a 220V 4-wire outlet and just not hook up one of the hot wires in the plug over to your UPS. The breaker MAY be OK tripping on a single-phase load, but it's not great.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2018 02:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 01:51 |
|
|
As others have said, you've got incompatible wiring. Lookup a NEMA plug table and you will see what everything means. `5` is 125v for example (and what you think of as a normal outlet), and `14` is the outlet you have. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector You can basically build-a-bear what you need from there but your device input plate, breakers, wiring, etc, all have to match. You can only adapt in limited circumstances. This is my go-to source for parts: https://www.stayonline.com/category/plug-adapters.asp . They've been around a long time and have always helped me out.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2018 05:46
|
|