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Slugworth posted:Not to be a wiseass on this, the celebration of the birth of our lord and all, but it sure sounds like you're describing a corner here. You're not saying anything I wasn't already thinking, I'm sure he'll will forgive you. My bit of DIY research online brings up the subject but it only seems to be like the outside corners that are addressed that way when its brought up and that's exactly how both my tiled showers were done originally, silicone in 4 corners but nowhere else including transitions from horizontal to vertical like this one. Speaking of... The Gardenator posted:I would use siliconized tile grout caulk, something like this: "Use where horizontal and vertical surfaces meet" Well there you go, thanks for confirming that's the way to go, now I just gotta hope I can find the right color.
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Dec 25, 2018 21:38
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If your shower is constructed properly it really shouldn’t be leaking even with a crack in the grout. There should be a membrane behind the walls that would shield the water from leaking into the floor below. Caulking might be a short term fix but I’d really think about replacing that shower at some point in the relatively near future. No tile/grout is completely waterproof and depending on how many showers are taken in that bathroom you may have moisture behind the tile even if you caulk every crack.
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Dec 26, 2018 05:37
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stupid puma posted:If your shower is constructed properly it really shouldn’t be leaking even with a crack in the grout. There should be a membrane behind the walls that would shield the water from leaking into the floor below. lol, I've seen fewer properly constructed bathrooms BY FAR than "5-10 year bathrooms" in varying degrees of "slap tile on drywall" to "maybe we'll put hardibacker on the walls of the surround and slap tile on that" which is a real step up. Proper water sealing, Ditra or similar on the floors and walls is an astonishingly small proportion of actual constructed bathrooms because most people don't know better or don't care. If you're joe homeowner you're going with the lowest or maybe middle bid. That doesn't get you a good bathroom. If you are a developer you are going with the lowest bid. That will get you a bathroom that survives the warranty/until you "go out of business" and reform under another corporation. While your point about proper quality construction based on modern methods is correct, they way you stated it seems to indicate you think this is something that actually happen in real life on a regular basis.
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Dec 26, 2018 05:49
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My downstairs bathroom is definitely just tile directly on drywall and I can't wait for the day I tear it all down
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Dec 26, 2018 05:52
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How can tile directly on sheetrock not just rot out the wall within a month?? I dunno, I did a shower with Ditra personally, but the others I’ve seen done at friends or family members’ houses used Redban or at least thick mil plastic that would have funneled the water to the concrete drain pan in a cracked grout situation. Maybe I just don’t realize the shower horrors out there...
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Dec 26, 2018 06:18
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It definitely occurred to me that cracked grout or not, that water should just be flowing down behind the tile to the drain, but it appears that while there is cement board behind the tile in this area things aren't setup to prevent water from escaping that encapsulation and flowing where it shouldn't. Unfortunately we just bought this house 2 months before this earthquake and remodeling the bathroom, which had just been remodeled 8 years prior, isn't on our list of priorities. As it is I'm hoping to repair this crack and reseal all the grout to get us another 10 years before we have to consider a tear down remodel to install IoT enabled tiles with integrated cameras and the ability to upload our showering status directly to the instagram of 2030.
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Dec 26, 2018 06:36
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Edit: a ceramic tub surround is not a shower. Not sure if I'd do a shower any different than a tub/shower surround. Mine's tile over cement board on a 60-YO tub. No leaks in ten years. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Dec 26, 2018 |
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Dec 26, 2018 22:51
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stupid puma posted:How can tile directly on sheetrock not just rot out the wall within a month?? Because it's on a wall and therefore not in standing water. Also, thinset isn't nearly as water permeable as basic sanded grout, so you have a layer of "protection" behind the tile. Of course this is likely to crack at joints, so you're gonna get leaks int he corners first. Even when Kerdi or some other appropriate material is used, it all comes down to the installation. You can have a shower fail just as fast if the contractor doesn't care or doesn't know how to use the system properly.
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Dec 26, 2018 23:46
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Hi all, I'm trying to hook up a rackmountable uninterruptible power supply that has a NEMA L5-30R (male) power cord. I have a straight blade NEMA 14-30R outlet in my basement that I'd like to use, but I can't find anything compatible. I bought a "Parkworld 884913 Generator Adapter twist lock 30A L14-30P Male to L5-30R Female" but it has curved connectors on the male end. Is there a reason the straight blade plug adapters are hard to find? Is this an incompatible setup because the outlet is 220V? I seriously doubt the UPS ever actually draws 30A---is it safe to adapt it to a standard 5-20P on its own 15A breaker? Here's some photos of what I'm babbling about : https://imgur.com/a/NTRMQCl
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Dec 28, 2018 22:38
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Greatest Living Man posted:Hi all, The "L" means locking - those curved blades. "R" means receptacle. Your male end is a "P" for plug. A 5-30P goes in a 5-30R. An L5-30P goes in an L5-30R. You're mixing and matching and hoping it will work. I will look at this later but you would be better off in the "don't burn your house down" thread. Also 30 amp 120v plugs are simply not that common.
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Dec 28, 2018 23:11
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H110Hawk posted:The "L" means locking - those curved blades. "R" means receptacle. Your male end is a "P" for plug. A 5-30P goes in a 5-30R. An L5-30P goes in an L5-30R. You're mixing and matching and hoping it will work. I will look at this later but you would be better off in the "don't burn your house down" thread. Also 30 amp 120v plugs are simply not that common. I crossposted to the electrical thread. Thanks for the explanation. I guess I was originally trying to buy a L5-30R to straight 14-30P.
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Dec 29, 2018 01:49
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My house's insulation is pretty crappy and possibly nonexistent. I had to open up one of the exterior walls awhile back to fix some water damage, and some of the stud bays were empty while others had some crumpled-up fiberglass insulation at the bottom. I'd like to improve my insulation; can I just blow in cellulose insulation regardless of what might already be in the wall? I also kind of assume that once you blow cellulose in, any time you open up the wall again in the future you're going to make a big ol' mess as the cellulose will spill out. In other words, this is the kind of thing that should wait until after I'm done adding outlets, reworking circuits, etc. Correct?
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Jan 4, 2019 00:15
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I would...if you have a plan for re-setting and -routing receptacles, etc in the near future. Having said that, it's not the end of the world if you have to open a wall...just have a large-capacity wet-vac on hand. My son & I blew in insulation into my 1930 balloon-frame house a few years back, using Home Depot's kit; it cost less than $500, most of that going for diamond hole saws to cut through the asbestos exterior hard-board tile. I cut through the tile with a 2-1/4" saw, then through the underlying Dutch lap with a 2" hole saw, which opened each bay for the blower/injector system.  I had to stuff the bottoms of the chases with batt insulation from the basement. There was no leakage into the interior. Afterwards, I glued the tile discs back in place, caulked & painted them over. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Jan 4, 2019 |
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Jan 4, 2019 01:05
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My house's insulation is pretty crappy and possibly nonexistent. I had to open up one of the exterior walls awhile back to fix some water damage, and some of the stud bays were empty while others had some crumpled-up fiberglass insulation at the bottom. I'd like to improve my insulation; can I just blow in cellulose insulation regardless of what might already be in the wall? Are you going to be opening the walls all the way? If so, just add batts.
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Jan 4, 2019 02:09
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kid sinister posted:Are you going to be opening the walls all the way? If so, just add batts. I'm still sorting out what exactly I want to do. I'd hope that opening up the walls to that extent won't be required, but if/where it is then a proper batt is obviously preferable to cellulose.
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Jan 4, 2019 02:49
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PainterofCrap posted:I would...if you have a plan for re-setting and -routing receptacles, etc in the near future. Does this have to be done from the outside? Or can you do it from inside? I need to do this and I don't want to cut up the outside.
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Jan 4, 2019 16:18
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Does this have to be done from the outside? Or can you do it from inside? I need to do this and I don't want to cut up the outside. You can, and in most cases it is done from the inside. However, plaster walls or something else that would make the inside walls a PITA to patch would make the outside approach preferred. If you have something like vinyl siding, it may be easier to pop off a panel, drill/fill, and pop the panel back on than it would be to patch a zillion drywall holes. Also, fireblocking in the walls can make this job require more holes than expected.
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Jan 4, 2019 16:46
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One of my bathroom mirrors has two old tube lights along each side. One is burnt out and needs to be replaced. I can't figure out how to remove the light from the fixture. There are these covers on each end that hold the bulb but don't seem to be removable. Thanks for any insight/help! 
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Jan 4, 2019 19:00
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This should be a quick question. My wife and I are installing tin tiles over the tile backsplash in our kitchen. The previous owners installed the tile all around the sides of the pass throgugh: My wife wants to install the tin tile all the way up to cover the last of the tile. The issue is that she wants to install it so that the finished edge is against the cabinets (ignore the finished edge on the top):  I think it's going to bother me to have that edge running straight down and hitting the tile running along the bottom. Does anyone have any ideas about how to transition into the tile? I thought about getting a t-shaped edge trim and putting it between.
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Jan 4, 2019 21:53
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cpranger posted:I think it's going to bother me to have that edge running straight down and hitting the tile running along the bottom. Does anyone have any ideas about how to transition into the tile? I thought about getting a t-shaped edge trim and putting it between. My money is on you not noticing it after a month.
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Jan 4, 2019 22:12
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cpranger posted:
Well I agree that it should cover all the old tile, but I think the new metal should line up with the rows below it, which means no finished edge left or right. I assume you were going to caulk the edges in or something? Maybe some grey silicone? ↓↓↓ Edit, the pattern should line up, that's what I meant. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Jan 4, 2019 |
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Jan 4, 2019 22:32
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The pattern lining up matters more than the factory edge. Don’t you have finishing strips? 
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Jan 4, 2019 22:32
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I agree that the pattern should line up. I've also been told that we aren't doing that as my arguments that the factory edges don't matter failed. I was shooting for ideas that would cause my brain not to burn.
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Jan 4, 2019 22:46
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*shrug* I put those finishing pieces all over and they look nice.
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Jan 4, 2019 22:58
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Does this have to be done from the outside? Or can you do it from inside? I need to do this and I don't want to cut up the outside. I did it from the outside because the interior walls are all plaster on lath and I like my house to be habitable, and free of plaster + newspaper insulation dust for the next ten centuries. That poo poo gets everywhere. Even with a breeze, working outside, we were coated in insulation dust. It can be done from the inside, but drat, it's messy, and a giant pain in the rear end if you're actually living there (as opposed to renovating before moving in). PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Jan 4, 2019 |
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Jan 4, 2019 23:17
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groundsfordivorce.jpg
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Jan 5, 2019 00:33
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Haha, I see how someone might think in their head that that idea is the way to go, but no, it was the wrong choice.
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Jan 5, 2019 00:51
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cpranger posted:groundsfordivorce.jpg  That would drive me insane
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Jan 5, 2019 00:57
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mutata posted:Haha, I see how someone might think in their head that that idea is the way to go, but no, it was the wrong choice. angryrobots posted:
She's very proud of it, and I'm trying to figure out how to take it down while she's gone.
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Jan 5, 2019 01:03
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cpranger posted:She's very proud of it, and I'm trying to figure out how to take it down while she's gone. That sounds extremely healthy.
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Jan 5, 2019 03:09
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H110Hawk posted:My money is on you not noticing it after a month. This is silly. The truth is that no other human being will ever notice one way or another, but it will haunt him every day for the rest of his life, just like every other small mistake on a project.
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Jan 5, 2019 14:20
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Doing it that way is wrong in two directions... it should die into the ceiling.
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Jan 5, 2019 14:36
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Obviously there is nothing that I can do about it. I'm disappointed because we spent a lot of time and a lot of money fixing all the things that the previous owner supremely messed up (for example, he used expandable foam to fill a hole where the deck attached to the house and let water enter the back wall).
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Jan 5, 2019 15:15
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Slugworth posted:This is silly. The truth is that no other human being will ever notice one way or another, but it will haunt him every day for the rest of his life, just like every other small mistake on a project. I’m in construction/real estate so I tend to notice the poo poo out of that stuff. Had a friend put down hard wood floors in his place. I visit him and he’s so proud to show me the work he did all by himself. And he specifically points out how well he aligned the the seams in both directions. And it was all I could do to say “Looks great, buddy.”
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Jan 5, 2019 16:50
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cpranger posted:She's very proud of it, and I'm trying to figure out how to take it down while she's gone. Take down the rest and move it over so it's lined up properly with that part. You know that is the only way to make this work for everyone involved.
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Jan 5, 2019 18:22
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Motronic posted:Take down the rest and move it over so it's lined up properly with that part. A friend came over this morning and went in the kitchen. I didn't tell him anything before he did. All of a sudden I hear "Ah, chabuduo" (he's from China).
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Jan 5, 2019 18:34
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lol. Almost indeed.
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Jan 5, 2019 18:38
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cpranger posted:groundsfordivorce.jpg Oh no no no. cpranger posted:A friend came over this morning and went in the kitchen. I didn't tell him anything before he did. All of a sudden I hear "Ah, chabuduo" (he's from China). Ahahaha Moist von Lipwig fucked around with this message at 07:59 on Jan 6, 2019 |
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Jan 6, 2019 07:55
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nashona posted:One of my bathroom mirrors has two old tube lights along each side. One is burnt out and needs to be replaced. I can't figure out how to remove the light from the fixture. There are these covers on each end that hold the bulb but don't seem to be removable. Thanks for any insight/help! I have a similar fixture, and just drove myself batshit trying to remember how to get the bulb out. Turns out there's a screw on the underside of the socket:  Also, if you replace the bulb and it still doesn't work, and if yours has one, try replacing the starter, they're cheap: 
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Jan 6, 2019 17:47
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cpranger posted:A friend came over this morning and went in the kitchen. I didn't tell him anything before he did. All of a sudden I hear "Ah, chabuduo" (he's from China). GOD I love that word. For a great long-format on the history of "chabuduo," peep this great article that I read immediately upon returning from China, which still reads as the truest thing I've ever read. https://aeon.co/essays/what-chinese-corner-cutting-reveals-about-modernity
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Jan 7, 2019 16:42
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