|
kastein posted:Jeep people are really superstitious about sensors but I've literally never had a problem with any sensor I've bought. I'm pretty sure they're superstitious for the same reason they recommend splooging every connector full of dielectric grease when 99% of them are great waterproof connectors these days anyways -reason being "well the guy with the cj5 that I learned Jeeps from said it was true". Sometimes I still default to my learning days technique of "pull an armful of sensors from the junkyard and dicker them down to $20 while they're really drunk on a Saturday just before closing, then stick them in until the explosion machine works again"
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2018 07:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 20:33 |
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Got the manifold Are you using a GM manifold, or the Dorman one?
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2018 08:01
|
|
|
GM. Found one on Amazon Warehouse Deals for $113 "used like new". If that one doesn't pan out for some reason they're only $130+tax.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2018 20:47
|
|
|
8ender posted:Sometimes I still default to my learning days technique of "pull an armful of sensors from the junkyard and dicker them down to $20 while they're really drunk on a Saturday just before closing, then stick them in until the explosion machine works again" Not a bad method. I'll use junkyard sensors in a pinch and I can't argue with the price. I actually had to buy an IAT sensor at the junkyard recently because I used my spare and they're no longer manufactured for RENIX Jeeps. At all.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2018 23:16
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:GM. Found one on Amazon Warehouse Deals for $113 "used like new". If that one doesn't pan out for some reason they're only $130+tax. Sounds like a deal. Aren't all the 4-bolt throttle bodies DBW, or was there some transition period?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 06:11
|
|
|
I believe all of the factory ones are, but there's no shortage of aftermarket ones out there. The one I got even still has the clean pcv inlet air port that newer factory TBs eliminate.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2018 06:35
|
|
|
Raluek posted:Sounds like a deal. Aren't all the 4-bolt throttle bodies DBW, or was there some transition period? I can't speak for the V8s, but at least on the Ecotecs, there was a transition period. Those were all 4 bolt AFAIK, but the first few years were cable operated. Annoyingly, the bolts are moved to different places for different size throttle bodies, so you can't cheat and get a little extra airflow by simply bolting on a TB from a different engine (there's supposedly adapter plates...). IOwnCalculus posted:I believe all of the factory ones are, but there's no shortage of aftermarket ones out there. The one I got even still has the clean pcv inlet air port that newer factory TBs eliminate. Also speaking for the earlier Ecotecs, the PCV port was moved to the silencer directly above the throttle body.  Makes a mess of the throttle body if you don't pull the silencer and clean the TB occasionally (and it gets downright bitchy about idling when it's cold if the TB is gunked up).
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 08:28
|
|
|
125lb of front suspension poo poo showed up yesterday, finally. Of course there's no instructions on the most complex part of the kit, the actual adapters for the coilovers themselves. Emailed CPP to see if I can get that fixed. The process doesn't look bad but as it is right now I've got a box full of brackets and a bag full of bolts, along with conveniently already-fully-assembled upper and lower arms, and the Viking coilovers themselves.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 18:00
|
|
|
Oh man, awesome. Can't wait to see how it goes together. Mines very far away from that stage.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 19:24
|
|
|
Well, turns out that Hot Rod article is the closest thing to instructions that CPP even has. At least this seems pretty straightforward.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2019 21:42
|
|
|
I'm pretty sure they put that or something like it on Hot Rod Garage. The C10 that they changed to a shortbed. Not sure how detailed it is in the episode but may have some pointers.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2019 21:50
|
|
|
Season 5 episode 60 but its QA1.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2019 21:58
|
|
|
I'll have to look that one up. I've already got the old front end off, I just need to start drilling / hammering rivets out to get the old brackets off. Already got a 4.5" hole saw on order since I have no idea where my HF kit went, and I wouldn't expect it to get through that steel anyway.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2019 21:58
|
|
|
Pulled the passenger inner fender to give more room. Only one of the loving speednuts broke, and thankfully it was one easy to get at. Room for activities!  Huh. Did they put some padding between the inner fender and the core support?  No. No they did not. No photos of the matching lip of the fender but it's paper thin and crunches by hand. The core support seems remarkably solid despite flaking off in chunks, but honestly I'm probably going to end up yanking the front clip to replace parts after I get the suspension back on. Speaking of replacement parts, I fired up Rockauto on my phone for shits and grins and was pleasantly surprised to see Goodmark inner fenders for all of $40 each. Added two to my cart to see what shipping was like... $250 truck freight from Canaderp. What the gently caress, Rockauto. Looks like next best is around $100 each plus more reasonable but still steep shipping, because they are indeed big loving parts. Started drilling / chiselling at those rivets holding the bracket on. I think I need a bigger air compressor, my little ~4.5 gallon twin tank was getting mighty toasty and spitting a ton of water down the air line too. Also need to gank some earplugs from work, holy poo poo that air hammer is loud.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2019 06:22
|
|
|
Try running a needle gun inside a steel tank. Sucks about the rust, but at least you found it before things fell off!
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2019 17:32
|
|
|
I honestly doubt it's progressed much in the past 15 years, but yeah. Thanks to shipping, just about anywhere for these parts is $500-600. Which truly isn't bad for some giant hunks of steel, but in the era of Amazon Prime, it's annoying to see so much of that be just the cost to get it to me. There used to be two local shops that would likely have these parts (or be able to get them without eating as much on shipping) but both of them closed ages ago.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2019 18:55
|
|
|
No further progress on the truck yet, but I did get a new compressor and ran some conduit / a new outlet for it since it won't fit under my workbench like my old one. Might try to hammer some rivets tomorrow after I move the air hose reel.
|
|
#
?
Feb 3, 2019 04:35
|
|
|
Didn't get to actually giving the compressor a hot supper until tonight, but got two rivets out and another started before I ran out of time. Much nicer being able to hammer for more than two seconds without cycling the compressor immediately. It would be faster if I had a grinder to take the rivet heads further first, but those inboard rivets are probably too closed in from all sides to get at with anything wider than a drill anyway.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2019 04:15
|
|
|
Truck work: Bought a better air hammer that takes the rivets out faster without doing anything else to them first, than the $15 Walmart special did after driling them to death. I've got all four rivets out on both sides now: Driver's side core support and inner fender lip are in vastly better shape.  While these are horrible rust-prone spots on these trucks, it makes sense because my truck spent a few years parked with the passenger side getting sprayed multiple times per week by the neighbor's sprinklers. Most of that damage was repaired when it was repainted the first time in 1990. It's making me lean a bit more towards repair instead of replace on these panels, since after shipping that's $600 of steel for all three. Next step is I need to clean all of the piles of metal shavings and Nixon-era grease off the floor so I can climb under and undo the last bolts holding those brackets on. Then I'll be able to start bolting on the coilover adapters and line up the 4" holesaw. Also, since I'm already in here chiseling poo poo, I'm probably going to knock off the bracket on the top of the frame that can be seen on the right of the image. Fairly certain it was part of the original clutch linkage. While I'm not going to rule out eventually swapping it back to a stick, it sure as poo poo won't be a mechanical clutch linkage if that happens. On the WJ, because of course it's a loving Jeep... changed the oil, filter, air filter, belt, and idler/tensioner pulleys since one of them was rattling. Neither bearing felt lovely when I pulled them off but it was definitely quieter with the new parts. While changing the oil, I noticed the front of the transfer case looked awfully wet:   Doesn't seem to be the front output shaft, and the back of the case is dry (only old residue from the prior rear leaks). Looks like the shift shaft seal. Need to figure out what the part on it is and how to replace it. Rockauto only lists one for the 242, not the 247.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2019 04:45
|
|
|
Because of course it is, it looks like that seal is only accessible from inside the loving case.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2019 05:32
|
|
|
I've actually never seen someone replace that seal unless doing a full rebuild, yeah. Unless it's really pouring out I'd just top it off regularly.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2019 14:48
|
|
|
Yeah. I'll have to figure out how bad it's actually leaking but given that it's not dripping, it can't be much. If it gets bad then I might consider doing a 242HD swap.
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2019 17:59
|
|
|
One month antiarchival bump. Nothing really happening so far on the cars, though that might change very soon. Been busting my rear end (and my back) on the backyard since it's been neglected far too long.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2019 23:42
|
|
|
It seems I have done A Thing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2019 21:05
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2019 02:43
|
|
|
After the race car gets finished I need to overhaul my 95 Suburban. There aren't many donor vehicles though up here - I may have to find one from the states to get all the bits I need. The previous owner for example: added toggle switches instead of buying a new headlight switch... added momentary switches to adjust temperature instead of buying a new climate panel. The list goes on.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2019 03:41
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Speaking of replacement parts, I fired up Rockauto on my phone for shits and grins and was pleasantly surprised to see Goodmark inner fenders for all of $40 each. Added two to my cart to see what shipping was like... $250 truck freight from Canaderp. I have the opposite problem with Rockauto body parts and this post makes me sad. All of my parts are in Texas. Why Rockauto why.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2019 06:32
|
|
|
I still haven't decided what to do about the C10's inner fenders, but thanks to ridiculous freight costs I'm leaning heavily towards finding someone to fab a new lip on the passenger one and sending it. As far as the Wrangler... picked it up today. $4500 for an '02 TJ, 4.0 / NV3550 5-speed, 173k miles. Has the TUPY head so should be solid there. Also has what appears to be a 3" lift, and a 1" transfer case drop, in order to barely support 33" tires. Eventually I'll throw a slip yoke eliminator on it and get rid of the transfer case drop at the same time as a skid plate install. Paint is turbofucked (it's black but at the very least filthy and more likely the clear coat is somewhat opaque) but mechanically it's good. Tires are a must-do before I drive it any further, they're almost as turbofucked as the paint. The current set is 285/75R16 BFG All Terrain KO. Not KO2, KO. With 2010 date codes. Likely going to get some 33x12.5x15s and some 15x8 soft 8 clones from Discount Tire Direct this weekend.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2019 08:25
|
|
|
Same year as mine - I'm a little disturbed that you got it so cheap. I don't want to acknowledge that values can go down. Holler if you have any Wrangler specific questions that aren't answered by the three million forums out there.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2019 16:22
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:Same year as mine - I'm a little disturbed that you got it so cheap. I don't want to acknowledge that values can go down. Holler if you have any Wrangler specific questions that aren't answered by the three million forums out there. Yeah, when I saw it pop up for sale I nearly did a spit-take, and again when they said it was still available. Best I can figure is all of the following played into me getting it for cheap: *Posted only on cars.com, and for at least a day or two it would show up on autotempest but error out when you tried to actually view the listing *Posted with lovely blurry photos *The seller appears to have bought it from the original owner in 2016 - I didn't do a full Carfax or anything, but AZ titles show the previous title date on it, and the title previous to theirs was issued in August 2002 *The seller knew next to nothing about the vehicle. I think the original owner actually wheeled it, the previous owner bought it for their (college age maybe?) kid. *The seller seemed to be more motivated by getting it out of the way than anything else. Didn't even counter my $4500 offer on a $5k listing. Still a solid deal. The last one before this that went on CL for a similar price was a '98 4cyl, and when I sent that listing to my wife she remarked that she could "smell the stale deer piss and cigarette butts from here". Which was true, that poo poo was beyond filthy and it still sold within hours. I'm not in a rush to list the WJ but I'm going to see if by some chance I can sell it for around what I paid for it, if I can find a buyer who cares about the lift, sliders, and skid plate. The TJ is so short that I can fit it in-line in the driveway with either the Honda or WJ behind it, so I'm not hurting for space. The tire carrier / bumper on the TJ is a Rockhard (lmao) unit  . Cost nearly $1k new by itself. Of course the wingnuts to hold a high lift jack on it are long gone but that's hardly the end of the world.Unlike the WJ, I have only two maintenance records. One is the windshield sticker about how it got an oil change sometime in the last 300 miles, and the other is a receipt in the glove box for nearly $600 to replace the blower fan and blower fan plug. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2019 17:18
|
|
|
Want to see a WJ with 33s, on only a spring lift and no metal trimming?
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2019 20:40
|
|
|
New wheels and tires on last night. Backspacing ended up a bit more than I realized, so they rub at full lock. Got some spacers on order.  Extremely dusty, but surprisingly dry. The oil pan gasket has definitely been replaced by a Felpro at some point already. Swapped the transmission and transfer case fluids today. Used some of my stash of $1/qt Dexron VI for the transfer case, and Redline MTL for the NV3550. Messy as hell job despite the small amounts of fluid involved. Of course my wife takes it for a short drive (literally in the neighborhood) and it comes back and spits some coolant. Not sure where from yet though. Wasn't even remotely hot, but it was low yesterday so I wonder if there's a leak somewhere that is now being discovered.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2019 03:40
|
|
|
Those new wheels are much better looking, assuming the ones it came with are the same as the spare mounted on the back in your first pic. Those things are so tacky. Why are 4x4 wheels always so tacky.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2019 00:51
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Why are 4x4 wheels always so tacky. Try finding anything for an 8-lug truck that isn't the worst thing you've ever seen. Good god, there is ZERO for options other than OEM.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2019 01:33
|
|
|
I know it depends on what you're looking for, but I've seen some decent aluminum wheels that I think look pretty good.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2019 01:36
|
|
|
opengl128 posted:Those new wheels are much better looking, assuming the ones it came with are the same as the spare mounted on the back in your first pic. Those things are so tacky. Why are 4x4 wheels always so tacky. Yep, a hideous matching set. Give me D-windows any day.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2019 02:00
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Of course my wife takes it for a short drive (literally in the neighborhood) and it comes back and spits some coolant. Not sure where from yet though. Wasn't even remotely hot, but it was low yesterday so I wonder if there's a leak somewhere that is now being discovered. I mean, it's a 4.0, coolant is optional anyway. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2019 06:12
|
|
|
Sold the wheels in just over 24 hours. No idea why so many people want them but hey. The money will come in handy since I have confirmed the coolant leak is definitely the upper radiator tank. Edit: while true, even 4.0s eventually die when roasted in an AZ summer
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2019 06:12
|
|
|
This thing is super easy to tear down, at least to this point: So much more room than the WJ. Only problem now is I can not get anywhere near enough of a grip on the fan clutch. I suspect someone has used an air chisel to get it off in the past given the marks on one side, but it's too late to go banging away with that right now. Also, I feel like poo poo thanks to coworkers who don't loving stay home when they're sick.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2019 05:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 20:33 |
|
|
Took some finagling but: AutoZone loaner holding tool, with a wood block on the inner fender to push back, and some random bolts I had laying around. Cheater bar on a crescent wrench and the fan spun right off. Also, glad I'm going through the whole system:  Check that pitting under the impeller.
|
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2019 20:19
|
|