|
sitting on the couch dicking around with gear and discovered first hand why back-clipping is bad so that’s good I suppose I really need to get back into regular climbing after holiday bullshit though
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 05:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 03:59 |
|
|
SavageBastard posted:Last year, after months on the couch, I started getting into the gym a ton and climbing regularly. By summer I was climbing 5.11 (outdoor) sport routes consistently and making fair attempts at 5.12's on 90 degree humid days. I couldn't wait for the temps to drop so I could start real projects. Unfortunately, just before the weather turned, I came down with a brutal case of medial epicondylitis and possibly chronic compartment syndrome in my forearms (never got it formally checked out). I retrospect, the signs were there and I just chalked it up to training pains. I promptly took a week off hoping it would resolve, which then turned into 2 weeks and now over 4 months. I think I'm ready to start easing back into the gym and I bought some elastic bands to start working on my forearm extensor muscles and whatnot in hopes of staving off a repeat. I'm getting kind of old (40's) so obviously I'm at greater risk for this kind of thing. Are you doing antagonist exercises regularly? I find that to make a huge difference.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 06:30
|
|
|
interrodactyl posted:Are you doing antagonist exercises regularly? I find that to make a huge difference. ^^^^ This - do pushups regularly, or preferably dips if you have a dip bar. Also get a Theraband FlexBar and do the twist exercise they suggest with it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 14:13
|
|
|
Kinda on topic, does anyone have a link to a good exercise program that I can run while climbing two to three times a week? I want to sign up for a climbing gym but I don't want to get skinnier / ignore my legs by having all my excercise be just climbing.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 15:54
|
|
|
interrodactyl posted:Are you doing antagonist exercises regularly? I find that to make a huge difference. What specifically do you find most helpful?
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 16:24
|
|
|
Spikes32 posted:Kinda on topic, does anyone have a link to a good exercise program that I can run while climbing two to three times a week? I want to sign up for a climbing gym but I don't want to get skinnier / ignore my legs by having all my excercise be just climbing. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3526910&perpage=40 I do Program 2 the twice a week version just to have some lifting thrown in each week. I’m usually at the gym 4 times a week so two lifting days with some climbing tacked on at the end.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 16:32
|
|
|
George H.W. oval office posted:https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3526910&perpage=40 So this looks like a good two day program that's complete on its own. Is there value to searching for a program that seeks to specifically address the muscle imbalances that climbing creates instead of a general program in addition to climbing? I appreciate the link and will happily run this one if there's not a big enough reason to try and find one.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 17:34
|
|
|
Re tendonitis, I'm also old as poo poo in climbing terms and have had to deal with this too. Don't forget downclimbing - fit it in to each day. Like for ever 3-4 routes you do, try and downclimb 1
Boner Pill Connoisseur fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Dec 31, 2018 |
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 17:38
|
|
|
SavageBastard posted:What specifically do you find most helpful? Push ups, dips, reverse wrist curls, and shoulder presses. I do them on my off days.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2018 17:51
|
|
|
Boner Pill Connoisseur posted:Re tendonitis, I'm also old as poo poo in climbing terms and have had to deal with this too. Don't forget downclimbing - fit it in to each day. Like for ever 3-4 routes you do, try and downclimb 1 Can you explain how this is helpful regarding tendonitis? Seems like it would work the same muscles the same way just going downwards similarly to how people do negatives before they can do a full pull up. I imagine there's something I'm missing?
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2019 02:32
|
|
|
AriTheDog posted:Can you explain how this is helpful regarding tendonitis? Seems like it would work the same muscles the same way just going downwards similarly to how people do negatives before they can do a full pull up. I imagine there's something I'm missing? Eccentric/negative exercises are specifically recommended to heal/strengthen tendons.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2019 03:40
|
|
|
more small potatoes, but I climbed the fastest I think I ever have on a c. 60' 10a and it took me from falling off an overhang on the first attempt to crushing it in like a minute flat including a shakeout on the second go-around I feel good even if I also fell like two feet from the end of another 10a
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2019 06:41
|
|
|
Tippecanoe posted:Eccentric/negative exercises are specifically recommended to heal/strengthen tendons. I'm pretty sure they're already damaged in tendonitis, usually because of overuse and imbalance between flexors and extensors (climbers are more prone to medial epicondylitis because that's where your finger flexors attach too). Doing very light eccentric exercises are possibly beneficial but most people are just going to gently caress up their tendons more by downclimbing.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2019 22:06
|
|
|
crazycello posted:I'm pretty sure they're already damaged in tendonitis, usually because of overuse and imbalance between flexors and extensors (climbers are more prone to medial epicondylitis because that's where your finger flexors attach too). Doing very light eccentric exercises are possibly beneficial but most people are just going to gently caress up their tendons more by downclimbing. I agree with this. Rice bucket, reverse curls, the hammer or band pronation exercise, all will be more effective at treating the tendonitis referenced earlier. Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Jan 10, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2019 01:27
|
|
|
whoo, cleaned my first 10c tonight and it felt totally doable I kinda feel like I haven't been pushing myself enough, I've had this mentality where I feel the need to do like every 5.9, every 10a, etc. before I 'move up' hopped on a new 10b/c immediately after and pumped out, it felt pretty achievable though if I hit it fresh and approached some of the moves a little better
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2019 02:38
|
|
|
I took a break from climbing over the holidays; after a two and a half week hiatus I BOMBED at the gym. I felt clumsy, I back-clipped, I barely had any strength to make it up, and burned out quickly. Usually for biking or running I can jump back in. for climbing I sucked. Is this a phenonemon for newbs (I started lead climbing over the summer) or it is typical for any climber?
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2019 02:13
|
|
|
I generally have the opposite happen. I will be climbing hard but getting burn out. 2 weeks off and I come back crushing. You will be fine though. Just get back out there.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2019 02:18
|
|
|
Mokelumne Trekka posted:I took a break from climbing over the holidays; after a two and a half week hiatus I BOMBED at the gym. I felt clumsy, I back-clipped, I barely had any strength to make it up, and burned out quickly. Anecdotally for me, its depended on where the length of years in my climbing life. Early on I would experience what you have; nowadays after more than two weeks off I come back with strength, but the endurance is awful.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2019 04:08
|
|
|
Anyone going to Hueco Rodeo this year? https://americanalpineclub.org/hrr/
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2019 04:13
|
|
|
I had a terrible time at the gym today after my holiday break, but I'm gonna put it down to being tired from yoga earlier today + just not eating enough before exercise. I will try again Wednesday.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2019 06:25
|
|
|
Mokelumne Trekka posted:I took a break from climbing over the holidays; after a two and a half week hiatus I BOMBED at the gym. I felt clumsy, I back-clipped, I barely had any strength to make it up, and burned out quickly. I've been climbing for many years and this still happens to me. After a one week break I generally don't notice much loss of fitness, but after anything longer I usually have 1 or 2 pretty terrible sessions and then I'm right back to where I left off. Probably doesn't help that most of my >1 week breaks coincide with holiday feasts... but yeah, point being, lower your expectations for those first couple sessions back but a relatively short break like that almost certainly won't impact your fitness or progression in any meaningful way over time
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2019 22:49
|
|
|
20 days off. I got my rear end kicked day 1 back. Some of the problems I approached, I had previously cleared (and some flashed). I couldn't send some. I took multiple tries to do others. This was mostly due to my loving hands. I simply couldn't maintain grip, either through lost strength. I do, however, like to blame my idiot shoes. They sat in my bag the entire time I went to England, in a ziplock so they wouldn't stink everything up. Never went climbing. When I put them on after returning they were loving slimy on the inside and slippery (think wet moss near moving water). Real loving gross. Now I'm shopping around for dif shoes, because goddamn.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2019 18:07
|
|
|
Cannon_Fodder posted:
oh man something like that happened with my shoes too. they were in my day pack with a bottle of apple cider that had one of those wine bottle plugs in it. evidently these don't withstand any sort of pressure, and it burst in my bag. of course my shell jacket didn't absorb a drop, but my shoes got a good spray of it. holy fUK they were so slippery for like an entire bouldering session.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2019 18:13
|
|
|
Lmao drop em off at an elementary school so they have a good exhibit on bacteria growth and good conditions that let it thrive.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2019 18:14
|
|
|
Yeah, never leave your sweaty shoes in an airtight container, next time tie them to the outside of your bag or something
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2019 18:19
|
|
|
I spray my shoes with lysol as soon as I get home - it works great. Dear goons, please lose weight. I have dropped 15 lbs since the beginning of November and it has had a bigger impact on my climbing than any training I've tried.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2019 00:15
|
|
|
nvm
Baronash fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Jan 15, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2019 05:43
|
|
|
armorer posted:^^^^ This - do pushups regularly, or preferably dips if you have a dip bar. Also get a Theraband FlexBar and do the twist exercise they suggest with it. Make sure you have somebody checking your form on the dips and pushups! They can be as terrible as they can be great if you have any predisposition towards forward rotated shoulders, rotator cuff injuries or impingement syndrome - and many climbers do.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 11:39
|
|
|
Electoral Surgery posted:I spray my shoes with lysol as soon as I get home - it works great. i also did this exact same weight loss in this exact same timeframe, but i feel about the same edit: that said, i dropped from 210 to 195 which is somewhat likely to be a smaller fraction of my weight than you Verviticus fucked around with this message at 12:29 on Jan 17, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 12:17
|
|
|
Verviticus posted:i also did this exact same weight loss in this exact same timeframe, but i feel about the same I'm on track to do something similar; I've lost 7 pounds since late Dec (212 to 205). Yay to losing weight in order to climb harder.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 16:03
|
|
|
I'm working there with other chonks. Trying to go from 198 back to 170ish, eventually. That will take awhile, but at least I'm back to 193. Also I bouldered the other day for the first time in awhile, as I've just been top roping. I flashed 2 new v3s and cleaned another, which was new for me. I am now sore and reminded I need to boulder way more. ShaneB fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Jan 17, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 16:15
|
|
|
I'm just starting week 6 of an 8-12 week break (I go back when my doctor says it's ok) and gently caress I want to climb something so much it hurts aaaaaaaaahhhhhhh On the plus side I've recovered enough now that I can do some training but it's really loving boring doing nothing but pure arm exercises
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 18:15
|
|
|
RabidWeasel posted:I'm just starting week 6 of an 8-12 week break (I go back when my doctor says it's ok) and gently caress I want to climb something so much it hurts aaaaaaaaahhhhhhh I feel you buddy. I haven't climbed since December 19th... Hopefully back to easy climbing on April 1st!
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 18:27
|
|
|
I've lost 15 pounds in 6 months. While it has made certain types of problems easier, it has also had a very noticeable effect on my energy levels. I get tired way faster for example.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 18:51
|
|
|
Good job guys. I can basically only way around so I am getting fat...........
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 19:04
|
|
|
190 to 180, can't tell if my strength improved or if I'm just hauling less. Either way, I'm getting better and have surprised myself by flashing a few V4s (though rarely).
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 19:21
|
|
|
Before rupturing ACL: fat, sending 5.10a 8 months after surgery (no climbing the entire time): lost 20# and sending...5.9. I worked back up to where I was in about a week. Maybe this is the year of 5.11, who knows.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2019 00:03
|
|
|
enraged_camel posted:I've lost 15 pounds in 6 months. While it has made certain types of problems easier, it has also had a very noticeable effect on my energy levels. I get tired way faster for example. i think im really lucky, because even when i was on a 1000 cal deficit (for the first couple weeks i was trying to lose ~2lb a week) if anything i had more energy. now im around -400 calories and im still probably better than i was before i started losing weight kinda excited to see if going back to eating maintenance at 190 is going to increase my energy or what
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2019 00:49
|
|
|
I was a solid V4/5 climber at 195. Training for a year and dropping to 170 put me in V9 range. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2019 15:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 03:59 |
|
|
gamera009 posted:I was a solid V4/5 climber at 195. No it's not. There are two ways to hold tiny things: stronger tendons or reduced weight. If you have weight to lose, one of those things is a lot easier to achieve than the other I lost 5 lbs over winter, and I jumped 1.5 grades overnight
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2019 15:48
|
|