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God im so pissed off. Occasionally my Ender 3 makes a slight "clunk" sound and the whole print skips a millimeter or so. And I can not loving figure out whats the issue. Its always on the Y axis. I tightened all the screws and the belt, checked for obstructions and everything. It kinda sound like it hits something but theres nothing there. Its not hitting the end stops or anything because it even happens with small prints that don't even come close to using all of the build plate. Maybe its just clunking because it gets a weird command or something. So i'm pretty sure its not a mechanical issue. So maybe the motor is hosed? Or the board? Or maybe Octoprint? Or maybe the USB cable? It's really loving frustrating to come home and see a 20 hour print looking perfectly fine except for the upper half being shifted a millimeter to the back. It's also only happening occasionally. sometimes it just prints fine. I might just take this thing apart and put it back together again to see if that solves anything...
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Jan 2, 2019 09:11
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Does the Y axis roll smoothly with the motors off? Mine shipped with the Y axis wheels tightened down too much which caused it to have noticeable flat spots, which resulted in some problems - no clunk, but it’s possible that’s related.
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Jan 2, 2019 14:47
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Grey Hunter posted:While I'm still waiting on my plate I've been doing what i can. I did make a benchy that skewed badly, so I tightened my belt a bit. Shame i can't repeat the magic and get a second one printed. I've seen a similar look on the bottom of some of my prints but never on the sides. I always thought it was spots where it didn't adhere to the bed. Maybe you've got the same thing going on for those middle layers?
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Jan 2, 2019 17:28
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Did you try changing your print speed? It looks like some kind of resonance to me. Go up or down a few percent and see if the pattern changes.
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Jan 2, 2019 17:58
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Kalman posted:Does the Y axis roll smoothly with the motors off? Mine shipped with the Y axis wheels tightened down too much which caused it to have noticeable flat spots, which resulted in some problems - no clunk, but it’s possible that’s related. I took apart the Y axis and can't find anything wrong with it. Belt looks good, rollers are fine. Everything seems fine. At this time i'm thinking its some weird software issue or something is wrong with the motor or the connection. The annoying part is that it only happens sometimes. Its really tough to troubleshoot when its printing fine one day and on the next day it completely fucks up.
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Jan 2, 2019 18:53
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This won't help I'm sure but I used to have an occasional "clunk" that baffled me. Turned out to be the filament spool. It would feed gently at the spool advancing it bit by bit while the spool tilted rather than rolled on its (textured metal finish) spindle and then it would finally tip over with a clunk. I put some silicone grease on the spindle as a test/ quick fix and have simply lived with slightly goopy spool inside rings ever since.
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Jan 2, 2019 19:09
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My Rhythmic Crotch posted:Hey all, I've had my Ender 3 for a few months now, and all has been well up until recently. I'm having what I think is adhesion issues. The print seems to pop off the bed (sticking to the nozzle and making a huge mess) about halfway through print. First few layers go down great though, and it is a glass bed. I have never needed to do anything special to the bed besides clean it, and it has just worked, until recently. Quoting myself... I ended up learning a fair bit to get the printer working again. - I had the glass bed on upside-down. Flipping to the textured side was a big improvement. - The glass bed seems to be warped, the middle is lower than the corners, and my nozzle height and leveling needed to take that into account. - For small parts, I had the movement speed way too fast. I think I ended up with 15mm/s for small stuff.
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Jan 2, 2019 19:52
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Shai-Hulud posted:God im so pissed off. Are the wires on the back getting caught on themselves?
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Jan 3, 2019 04:01
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dyne posted:Are the wires on the back getting caught on themselves? Hm i dont' think thats the problem but better be safe than sorry. I'll route and tie those down properly just to make sure.
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Jan 3, 2019 10:46
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I got a cheap dehydrator to make a filament dryer with. Most of the utility of a PrintDry for $32. Same base unit, this particular one was Rosewill brand. After several reports that it didn't get above 120F\49C I decided to test it first by heating it to the max setting (158F\70C) with a remote probe thermometer. Got up to about 130F\54C. Wrapped it with some reflectix insulation I had and it easily got to 152F\67C. Dialed it back a bit and it can hold steady at around 140F\60C pretty easily for this roll of ABS that's been sitting in the open for a couple years.  Showed a 3g loss in weight after 4 hours, but the scale I was using was questionable at that small of a weight, so I got out my 1 month old roll of PETG with my scale that supposedly is precise to 0.1g. After 7 hours at around 150F\65C it lost 1.2g according to the scale. Just got the final supplies in to make a drybox to store the actively printing roll in. Spool will sit inside with some desiccant and a PTFE tube to go all the way to the extruder.
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Jan 4, 2019 02:32
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How did you make the trays work? Cut out the bottoms or do they come off and leave you with a ring? If I was seeing them correctly on Amazon, it looked like they were shallow grid bottom trays and then a lid on top instead of any kind of deep lid/collar.
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Jan 4, 2019 04:29
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Hypnolobster posted:How did you make the trays work? Cut out the bottoms or do they come off and leave you with a ring? If I was seeing them correctly on Amazon, it looked like they were shallow grid bottom trays and then a lid on top instead of any kind of deep lid/collar. You can just cut the grids out of a couple of the rings with some flush cutters or whatever. On mine the outside edge of the ring cracked but I just put some packing tape on it. This guy shows cutting them up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q46MARHhxAQ&t=293s
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Jan 4, 2019 05:06
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Rexxed posted:You can just cut the grids out of a couple of the rings with some flush cutters or whatever. Bingo. A couple of the cuts cracked a bit, but nothing that broke all the way through the remaining bit. I ran a bit of 120 grit sandpaper around the little nubs and it rounded the cuts off enough I'm not concerned about cutting myself on them. You can also search thingiverse for "Dehydrator" and find all sorts of things people have made instead. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3027142 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1618037 I checked out some local Goodwill\Savers type stores over the last few weeks hoping to find a cheap one to wreck, but no such luck.
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Jan 4, 2019 05:19
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So I think my problems with the Ender 3 are, again, down to lovely connectors. I just started a print and after a minute the head just spazzed out for a second like it did when the connector was loose. Maybe thats what's causing the shifting of the prints.
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Jan 4, 2019 17:46
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So, I got an Ender 3 a couple days ago and everything has been near-flawless so far. The only issue that's been coming up occasionally to varying degrees is weird layers at the start of a gap/hole/feature. On a couple prints it came up as 2-3 layers of banding, and on another it turned into lack of adhesion or under-extrusion (I think). The second would have still been a functional part if I had more infill/solid on such a thin wall, at least. Good example of the weird banding only at the start and end of the holes. Tiny bit of under-extrusion on one, I think?  This one has the lack of adhesion/under-extrusion all the way around the part at the slot ending layer, and has the more usual banding down on the other side of the slot which is hard to see because lovely picture. Using Cura, Hatchbox PLA at 205/60, .15 layer, usually 55mm/s print speed although I've been playing with print speed a bit here and there depending on the part.
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Jan 4, 2019 17:54
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I've been messing around with some of these TPU filaments, and thought that I should finally make a cup/base for my hydroflask-alike. I dropped it a few months ago and it hasn't sat level on the table since, but a carefully designed sleeve fixed that.   First try, fits perfectly.
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Jan 4, 2019 19:18
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I've been printing on my new Ender 3, all the mods mentioned and a few other things (like a Mayan Skull Death whistle which I highly recommend). I've had a some bed level issues; small things that use a 4x4 inch center of the bed do fine, but as I go to the outside edges I have adhesion problems. So I ordered a glass bed. Which should be here in time to install for the weekend. Anything I should be aware of beyond rough side up, move the z axis sensor. Do I pull the blackish bed material (with the Ender logo) or put the glass on top of it. Do I need to adjust my bed temp? (Right now I've found I need a bed temp of 65 degrees instead of the default 60). Also, the default of the nozzle is 200 degrees, I print in an area with an ambient temp of around 65F, should I adjust this up? Are the auto bed levelers worth it on a low end machine like this?
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Jan 4, 2019 20:42
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porktree posted:I've been printing on my new Ender 3, all the mods mentioned and a few other things (like a Mayan Skull Death whistle which I highly recommend). I've had a some bed level issues; small things that use a 4x4 inch center of the bed do fine, but as I go to the outside edges I have adhesion problems.
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Jan 4, 2019 22:31
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porktree posted:Do I pull the blackish bed material (with the Ender logo) or put the glass on top of it. I just put the glass on top and it’s been fine. You’ll need to adjust the Z and relevel, obviously. quote:Do I need to adjust my bed temp? (Right now I've found I need a bed temp of 65 degrees instead of the default 60). I find that I need to set it about 5 degrees higher than just the aluminum bed.
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Jan 5, 2019 00:32
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porktree posted:I've been printing on my new Ender 3, all the mods mentioned and a few other things (like a Mayan Skull Death whistle which I highly recommend). I've had a some bed level issues; small things that use a 4x4 inch center of the bed do fine, but as I go to the outside edges I have adhesion problems. I have a glass bed on my Ender 3. I ripped off the stock buildtak style stuff as I didn’t care for it. You’ll just have to re-level, and possibly move your endstop depending on how much travel your springs have. I have an EZABL on all of my machines (except my A20M, that has a bltouch) and I can heartily recommend it. I hardmounted my bed with some bushings as well, so there are no changes to the mesh ever. I have perfect layers every print and any machine I get I will be putting some form of ABL on it.
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Jan 5, 2019 02:41
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I added a BLTouch to my Ender 3 and im pretty happy with it. Leveling the bed was just a chore and the included bed never was really level anyway. I just do a 5x5 mesh leveling before every print now and the first layer comes out fine without any hassle. I'm still tinkering with the probe offset though. On another note:  These are supposed to be straight supports. This layer shifting is starting to really piss me off. I'l start project "Hotglue everything" today and see if that helps. I'll also purge and reinstall every piece of software i use just in case. Can this be a problem with overheating motors? I put dampeners on mine so they get a bit warmer than usual.
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Jan 5, 2019 14:24
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Shai-Hulud posted:I added a BLTouch to my Ender 3 and im pretty happy with it. Leveling the bed was just a chore and the included bed never was really level anyway. I just do a 5x5 mesh leveling before every print now and the first layer comes out fine without any hassle. I'm still tinkering with the probe offset though. Thats pretty extreme, is there a CA-CHUNG sort of sound when it happens? Maybe the motor that runs your Y axis isn't getting enough power, or is overloaded at certain points? I had my extruder motor do this when I was trying to run it too fast, or it was dying, or a combination of both. It would start fine then arbitrarily start making ka-Chunk sounds every few minutes, then every few seconds if I left it on. It would stop feeding filament when it did this leading to large thin patches everywhere on my prints where it was just pulling material from the melt zone but not feeding any more down the bowden tube. I had to use my multimeter to read the voltage that my stepper drivers were putting out, then adjust the trim pot with a screwdriver until it was closer to what a random internet guide said it should be. It worked for a while but eventually started doing it again when I wanted to print faster so I replaced it, but adjusting the stepper driver worked temporarily.
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Jan 5, 2019 15:33
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bring back old gbs posted:Thats pretty extreme, is there a CA-CHUNG sort of sound when it happens? Maybe the motor that runs your Y axis isn't getting enough power, or is overloaded at certain points? Yes! It's making a weird sound and then it starts loving up! How did you measure the voltage? Just send a move command to the motor and check the cables? I'll also try gluing all the connectors down again. Maybe it just rattles loose a bit and can't get all the power to the motor.
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Jan 5, 2019 16:57
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Shai-Hulud posted:Yes! It's making a weird sound and then it starts loving up! How did you measure the voltage? Just send a move command to the motor and check the cables? The stepper driver boards have a reference point to measure on and a potentiometer to adjust it. If you adjust the potentiometer and the vref voltage increases, the motor receives more current. This is a pretty good overview of the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVlee67TQxs Just be careful not to increase it too much as more current means hotter steppers. Any improvements in the smoothness and ease Y axis movement would be something to tackle first before adjusting the drivers.
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Jan 5, 2019 19:41
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simmyb posted:I've been trying to find a specific grommet / strain relief for my bike without much luck for a few days, so I thought why not try to make it myself? Quoting my own post for context... injecting RTV was a massive failure. It would go in fine but adhere to the mold too much and tear when opening. My clever wife asked why I didn't just use Sugru. So instead I made ripoff Sugru (silicone caulk and corn starch), made the mold into a compression mold, and voila! Working parts  
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Jan 5, 2019 19:46
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. I have a feeling the silicone I used was too thick and mold probably laughably bad, so may not have got into all the fine details. Might try some flowable silicone if it fails.
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I've been aware of homebrew sugru for years but I always forget it's an option for stuff like that. Nice job
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Jan 5, 2019 19:55
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porksmash posted:The stepper driver boards have a reference point to measure on and a potentiometer to adjust it. If you adjust the potentiometer and the vref voltage increases, the motor receives more current. This is a pretty good overview of the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVlee67TQxs yeah I just followed a blog from the guy that sold me my printer but he seems to have cleared his old posts out and I cant find the article https://matterhackers.dozuki.com/Guide/Tuning+Motor+Current/37 this is a guide in text form Rather than doing math or figuring anything out I just turned the little pot 1/4 of the way around and tried a print and repeated until the problem went away 
bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Jan 5, 2019 |
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Jan 5, 2019 19:57
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bring back old gbs posted:yeah I just followed a blog from the guy that sold me my printer but he seems to have cleared his old posts out and I cant find the article Thanks for the guide. I'll have a look at it. Im pretty sure the problem is more pronounced when its trying to print stuff thats further apart. So maybe i'll reduce speed and acceleration a bit and see if that helps something. It definitely looks like the motor cant keep up with the printer.
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Jan 5, 2019 20:29
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simmyb posted:Quoting my own post for context... That looks like it turned out great! Silicone caulk plus cornstarch is a nice thing to have in the toolbox, so to speak.
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Jan 5, 2019 21:36
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simmyb posted:So instead I made ripoff Sugru (silicone caulk and corn starch), made the mold into a compression mold, and voila! Working parts I see those kinematic couplings! The nice thing about them is that they always align in exactly the same way. The unfortunate thing about them is that if they're slightly off, they're always slightly off in exactly the same way.
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Jan 5, 2019 21:42
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Sagebrush posted:I see those kinematic couplings! They worked great for this. No fussing about getting pins to line up, especially when I couldn't really see them through all the excess rubber. Just line them up roughly and smush 'em together
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Jan 5, 2019 22:20
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If someone made an app that split a body along a plane and generated configurable kinematic couplings that’d be worth something.
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Jan 5, 2019 22:57
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simmyb posted:Quoting my own post for context... If you ever get the itch to mold RTV again you could use some sort of release agent to make sure it doesn't stick to the mold.
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Jan 6, 2019 02:45
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Carnuba wax works well. Use the nylon brush from those $2.99 3-packs at the hardware store (use the brass or steel brush to scrub your nozzle), and scrub the mold vigorously with a bit of it. It will not take much ... the best real mold releases are aerosol and take a quick pass, not a hosing-down.
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Jan 6, 2019 03:04
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Explain automatic bed levelers to me. Do they compensate for a slightly off bed, or do they help you achieve a perfectly level bed (with manual adjustments?) Or do they simply ensure that 0 on the z-axis is exactly where it should be?
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Jan 6, 2019 13:13
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bolind posted:Explain automatic bed levelers to me. Do they compensate for a slightly off bed, or do they help you achieve a perfectly level bed (with manual adjustments?) While you will still want your bed as level as possible, they can help compensate by moving the z up and down slightly as it prints the first layer. Helps when you have a slightly warped bed that is hard/impossible to get perfectly level.
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Jan 6, 2019 13:43
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I've just run into a rather unusual problem with my Makergear M2 (dual V4 extruders, latest version of controller): In the middle of printing a rather large piece, it stopped with the following errors in the communication log:quote:READ: echo:Unknown command: ".258 Y125.854 E1523.3722" ...but when I checked the G-code file, the "unknown commands" were cut off from valid lines of code G1 X21.258 Y125.854 E1523.3722 and G1 X108.018 Y31.157 E24.9708 respectively. I was printing from the SD card, the same one which had shipped with my printer (which I had purchased in January 2015). I had just reformatted it after having trouble getting the controller to read it. Does anyone know what might be wrong here? Thank you.
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Jan 6, 2019 14:59
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Cockmaster posted:Does anyone know what might be wrong here? Thank you. The SD card has probably finally reached its end of life, leading to random file corruption. Get a new one.
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Jan 6, 2019 15:03
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You know what. Some issues i've been having actually might have been because of a faulty Mini USB cable. I used and old one from some old SD card reader because who the gently caress uses mini USB anymore. Seems like some wires were slightly hosed in that one.
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Jan 6, 2019 15:13
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foosel posted:The SD card has probably finally reached its end of life, leading to random file corruption. Get a new one. Thank you, I found one I used with an old Raspberry Pi and it seems to have worked.
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Jan 7, 2019 02:58
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