|
I have the Integra version of the 8270 and it’s a solid receiver that pushes legit 100 watts. If it had room correction and pre-outs it would be amazing.
|
# ? Jan 3, 2019 21:40 |
|
|
# ? Jun 5, 2024 21:39 |
|
Are there any reasonable HDMI receivers that have passthrough jumpers between the pre and main stages so I can insert some other equipment in the small chain? That used to be common in vintage stereo receivers, but now it seems nonexistent.
|
# ? Jan 3, 2019 21:50 |
|
Decided to upgrade my currently 8-year-old HT setup of a Denon AVR-1611 and Polk speakers (2x Monitor60 towers, CS2B center, RC60i ceiling surrounds). My only 'good' speaker is my SVS PC-2000 sub which I bought last year to replace a Polk PSW10 and it made the Polk look pretty laughable in comparison. Bought a Denon AVR-X3400H so I can have 4K / AirPlay / Spotify / more HDMI inputs / Audyssey XT32. Shopped around a bit for 5.0 speakers in the $1k price range and settled on Chanes, specifically three A2.4 for LCR and two A1.4 for surrounds. I will keep the cheap Polk RC60i's in the ceiling for 5.1.2 Atmos for now. Ascend Acoustics and Chane were the two brands that seemed to be the best value for the $ in that price range and caused me to rule out things like ELAC Debut / ELAC Uni-fi / SVS Prime. I was a little concerned about the lack of professional reviews, and am mostly just taking Internet people's words for it, but hoping for the best because people on AVSForum seem to love the Chanes. Seems like the biggest gripe against Chane is that they have had supply issues in the past with people waiting months for things to come back in stock, but I placed my order this morning and they have already been shipped to arrive on Tuesday. Will follow up with a report next week either way because it is hard to find people's reviews outside of the cult of Chane on AVS. Parker Lewis fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Jan 3, 2019 |
# ? Jan 3, 2019 23:11 |
|
AVS people loving love Chane, I’m curious to hear how you like them. I was considering them but they were out of stock when I was buying and more importantly I’d have to put electrical tape over their awful comic-sans-rear end logo.
|
# ? Jan 3, 2019 23:39 |
|
qirex posted:AVS people loving love Chane, I’m curious to hear how you like them. I was considering them but they were out of stock when I was buying and more importantly I’d have to put electrical tape over their awful comic-sans-rear end logo. It caught my attention when people on AVS were preferring the Chanes over speakers like the SVS Ultra or Ascend Sierra 2 when the Chanes should have in theory been a tier below those others in price/performance. I worried that the reviews were almost all too good to be true and that the same few forum posters kept showing up in different threads to push the Chanes. But I also read through most of a pretty huge owner’s thread, and talked directly to a few Redditors who own them, to convince myself to at least give them a try.
|
# ? Jan 4, 2019 00:54 |
|
Here's what I suspect is a dumb question: is there anything about a center channel speaker that makes them only good as a center, or could you use two centers as L and R in a home theater setup? Basically I have a center that's not doing anything and was thinking of just getting it a twin and using them as a pair in a second room.
|
# ? Jan 4, 2019 02:36 |
|
Listerine posted:Here's what I suspect is a dumb question: is there anything about a center channel speaker that makes them only good as a center, or could you use two centers as L and R in a home theater setup? Basically I have a center that's not doing anything and was thinking of just getting it a twin and using them as a pair in a second room. There’s a possibility the tweeters aren’t designed to be used off axis so if you turn them on their side it might not be optimal. A lot of other speakers are cool with it. Some you can rotate them 90 degrees.
|
# ? Jan 4, 2019 04:02 |
|
Is there any real benefit to bi-wiring speakers vs. using jumpers? In a shocking twist to audio discussions there is an insane amount of conflicting information on this.
|
# ? Jan 4, 2019 07:54 |
|
fknlo posted:Is there any real benefit to bi-wiring speakers vs. using jumpers? In a shocking twist to audio discussions there is an insane amount of conflicting information on this. I wouldn’t necessarily call it a benefit, but theoretically, yes. Biwiring can affect the frequency response at the crossover frequency: https://www.st-andrews.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scots_Guide/audio/biwire/Page3.html First you would have to determine if the change was even audible, and then you would have to determine if the change was actually an improvement. Both of those answers would require blind testing, and I can all but guarantee that none of the biwire proponents have done that.
|
# ? Jan 4, 2019 08:33 |
|
fknlo posted:Is there any real benefit to bi-wiring speakers vs. using jumpers? By 'real' benefit do you mean something you'd ever notice? If so, no. If it made a difference, manufacturers would offer speakers without crossovers as standard if only because they could then charge you extra for them (and they'd be 'amazing' and necessary. the fact there's no real market for passive crossovers suggests the ones supplied are more than fine) Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 12:14 on Jan 4, 2019 |
# ? Jan 4, 2019 12:11 |
|
OH BOY BIWIRING RANT TIME! Whether wire 1, containing everything is sent to both the woofer and the tweeter, Or wire 1, containing everything is sent to the woofer, and wire 2 containing everything is sent to the tweeter, It's still being sent the same full range signal! You're still attaching the wires to the same post on the amp! Now, biamping, that's actually real because instead of sending 100w to all drivers, you can send 100w to the woofer from amp channel #1, and 100w to the tweeter from amp channel #2. Or you could use your amp in bridge mode [edit] My dennon is 7.1 capable but since I use it for 5.1 it allows me to send the unused channels (front highs / front wides) to the Left/Right channels in Biamp mode Ak Gara fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Jan 4, 2019 |
# ? Jan 4, 2019 15:47 |
|
Ak Gara posted:OH BOY BIWIRING RANT TIME! Yeah, this was basically my thought process as well. It doesn't actually matter since I have no speaker wire because Amazon/UPS can't get poo poo out on time any more and I'm not paying 4x more for some at Best Buy. e: I saw someone mention it, but the built in chromecast seems really bad. It was freezing up constantly and jumped the volume up to 100 for half a second when I touched a slider in chrome. poo poo's loud yo. I'll probably just go pick up a chromecast to plug into the receiver. fknlo fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Jan 5, 2019 |
# ? Jan 4, 2019 19:52 |
|
I have an assortment of (mostly passive) speakers. I have a computer with HDMI and optical S/PDIF outputs. What I don't have is anything to bridge the gap between them, so at the moment it's just using a pair of Logitech satellites with a hardwired sub. My understanding is that I want an amplifier or, if I'm ok with extra features that I'll never use like AM/FM radio and input selection, a receiver. It doesn't seem like a basic S/PDIF receiver with 3.1 or 5.1 outputs should be too expensive, especially considering that the OP says a basic 5.1 setup should run ~$500 including the speakers and cables, which leaves, what, $100-$150 for the amp/receiver? But I'm having a lot of trouble finding stuff that isn't either (a) extremely basic "HDMI passthrough to 2-channel audio" or (b) extremely expensive multi-source 7.1 output everythingboxes. What keywords, brand names and/or shops should I be looking at for something relatively inexpensive that does digital input and 3.1 or 5.1 output and not really anything else?
|
# ? Jan 5, 2019 04:50 |
|
This is currently the cheapest option on A4L and should do you just fine: https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/pionvsx531/pioneer-vsx-531-5.1-ch-x-80-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html This one is stereo only (so less wasted features) and will get you sightly more watts (no sub output though): https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/yamrn301bl/yamaha-r-n301-2-ch-x-100-watts-networking-stereo-receiver/1.html
|
# ? Jan 5, 2019 05:03 |
|
I have (what I'm pretty sure) is a silly question. I recently bought a house and it came with speakers built into the great room wall behind where the TV is, the ceiling of the kitchen and the bedroom. Those rooms are all adjacent, so it seems the previous owner used them more for whole-house music rather than as a home theater system. I'm looking at the Onkyo TX-NR676 to utilize for both home theater and whole-house audio purposes (I know that it won't be actual home theater sound, but my wife wants the TV to play over the speakers, as well as ability to stream music from her phone to the speakers). If I want to play my PS4, I'm likely going to want to have the audio over just the TV speakers since it will be more accurate than using the house speakers. I'll have the ability to choose that option correct? Probably something in my TV settings for where to output the sound? Thanks for accommodating my naivety
|
# ? Jan 6, 2019 02:41 |
|
Your TV should have that option, yeah. Not sure what you mean by "more accurate" though.
|
# ? Jan 6, 2019 02:59 |
|
Normally the connection goes PS4 -> receiver -> TV, not PS4 -> TV -> receiver.
|
# ? Jan 6, 2019 03:10 |
|
Finally got around to setting up the KEF Q150s moving from ELAC B6 and holy hell I can actually hear details in sound aside from treble and bass Denied the Isengard battle from Two Towers, some stuff on Edge of Tommorrow, and the chase scene with the trucks in Dark Knight and holy heck it sounded great. Now do I add a sub... and upgrade from the s910w to the x1400h. Decisions decisions.
|
# ? Jan 6, 2019 19:43 |
|
Sub
|
# ? Jan 6, 2019 19:47 |
|
Does anyone have an opinion on Kali LP-6's? Are they as great as the hype says they are? Thinking of getting a set of powered monitors for the main living room TV. Just a simple 2.0/2.1 I got my eye on a set of JBL 306p's too.
|
# ? Jan 6, 2019 22:26 |
|
Kloaked00 posted:I have (what I'm pretty sure) is a silly question. From what you describe, you have 3 zones (Great Room, Kitchen, Bedroom.) The TX-NR676 has 2 zones. You might want to consider an avr with 3 zones if you want to be able to stream unique sources to all three zones. Having said that, there is often a big jump in price to avrs that support 3 zones. There are other ways to do it using a two zone avr like a speaker selector. Or, a separate amplifier just for music sources to the bedroom and kitchen with a Chromecast Audio as the source. (Assuming you don't need TV sound in kitchen and bedroom)
|
# ? Jan 7, 2019 03:35 |
|
KillHour posted:Normally the connection goes PS4 -> receiver -> TV, not PS4 -> TV -> receiver. I have to do the second one, since my receiver doesn't support HDR
|
# ? Jan 7, 2019 09:06 |
|
Crossposting from the quick audio questions thread, as this may be a more appropriate place for it: Anyone have a suggestion for a 2 channel ~110w/channel home amplifier that supports remote control and RCA input? I don't need any other features and don't care what it looks like as it'll be in a utility closet. Long story short, my Marantz SR6011 supports 7.2.4 but 2 channels need to go to a secondary amp. I've been using my old Denon AVR-S710W for this purpose, but it's complete overkill and I'm not using any of that amp's features. A friend could make use of that amp, and I'm happy to part with it, but I want to replace it with something decent for the purpose. Anyways, something that would fit that bill that has comparable audio specs to the Marantz SR6011 and supports a remote control (so that my Harmony Smart Control can turn it on/off with everything else) would be great - doesn't need any fancy features, just 2 RCA inputs and 2 speakers outputs with comparable specs. Edit: auto power control based on RCA signal would work too - I just don't want it on all the time.
|
# ? Jan 7, 2019 19:49 |
|
Don't forget about trigger. You can hook up a $3 cable between them and tell the receiver to turn the amp on/off when it powers on/off. Looks like it's labeled "DC OUT" on the 6011. https://smile.amazon.com/TNP-3-5mm-Mono-Cable-3FT/dp/B01MA18DPL Amps with trigger are going to be widespread: https://smile.amazon.com/Audio-Source-AMP100VS-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00ZSEFU94
|
# ? Jan 7, 2019 22:55 |
|
I completely forgot about that feature. Thank you! Any specific recommendation on that amp in particular? Or just a "hey you can consider a lot more amps than you thought" post?
|
# ? Jan 8, 2019 02:10 |
|
No specific recommendation for it.
|
# ? Jan 8, 2019 05:40 |
|
I'm looking into getting a subwoofer for my hometheater and was looking at a few different options, sadly, a lot of the common recommendations I've seen are US only or, in the case of SVS, outside my budget. I was wondering if anyone could speak to any of these options, which I've taken into closer consideration: Canton AS 85.3 - 8" 200 Watts RMS, Frequency Response 25 ~ 200 Hz, Lowpass Crossover Adjustable from 55 ~ 200 Hz Mivoc Hype G2 - 10" 120 Watts RMS, Frequency Response 20 ~ 180 Hz, Lowpass Crossover Adjustable from 40 ~ 180 Hz Polk HTS 10 - 10" 100 Watts RMS, Frequency Response 25 ~ 180 Hz, Lowpass Crossover Adjustable from 30 ~ 120 Hz Klipsch R-100SW - 10" 150 Watts RMS, Frequency Response 32 ~ 120 Hz, Lowpass Crossover Adjustable from 40 ~ 120 Hz
|
# ? Jan 9, 2019 06:59 |
|
Save up some more money then, a good subwoofer lasts for years, while you'll want to replace a poo poo one pretty soon. Buy cheap, buy twice. Or as a friend is fond of saying: Pay once, cry once. You should look at the used market as well.
|
# ? Jan 9, 2019 08:36 |
|
It's supposed to be "Buy once, cry once." It rhymes - that's why it's a saying. Tell your friend I hate them.
|
# ? Jan 9, 2019 08:43 |
|
Buy once, shed tears only singularly, got it.
|
# ? Jan 9, 2019 09:14 |
|
KillHour posted:It's supposed to be "Buy once, cry once." It rhymes - that's why it's a saying. Tell your friend I hate them. I'll pass that along My only cheap hifi buy is annoying me now, and I'm going to have to buy a new set of fronts for my living room due to my bad choices when I moved last. Sigh. Granted I only wasted $150 or so, but still.
|
# ? Jan 9, 2019 12:56 |
|
Incessant Excess posted:I'm looking into getting a subwoofer for my hometheater and was looking at a few different options, sadly, a lot of the common recommendations I've seen are US only or, in the case of SVS, outside my budget. No sure how handy you are, or if you have the tools, but DIY subs might be an option. You can get a lot of output for a lot cheaper than an SVS or equivalent but they require some work and skills.
|
# ? Jan 9, 2019 15:12 |
|
In my case, I saved up and got an SVS 12" and holy poo poo is it so nice. It's on another plane of existence from the Polk PSW125 that it replaced. I agree with the guy a couple posts up who suggested saving up if you think it's feasible.
|
# ? Jan 9, 2019 15:17 |
|
I would build a 12" sub rather than getting a 10" that only plays down to 40 or 50 Hz.
|
# ? Jan 9, 2019 15:37 |
|
Scrapez posted:No sure how handy you are, or if you have the tools, but DIY subs might be an option. You can get a lot of output for a lot cheaper than an SVS or equivalent but they require some work and skills. Obligatory THT video post... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZglcBoKBuaY quote:20Hz: 114dB at 4.5% THD. I did not push any further, as the panes in my windows were moving about 1/16" at the time. I think they would have broken if I went further. Above 20Hz, you can get damned near as much as you want dB-wise, all clean. Basically, from 16 or so Hz on up, you have strong bass, from 20Hz on up, INSANE bass. I designed the system to give me great sound at -10dB from reference (with Dynamic EQ frequency correction to account for equal loudness curves), which it does with flying colors flat down to around 16Hz before dropping off. Useful output down to 12Hz. All at less than 5% THD. In a sweep and distortion test of a $9950 sub, the Genelec HTS6... the Genelec runs over 10% THD at 115dB. This is significant, in that a sub almost 20 times less expensive to build can seriously compare with one of the best subs available. 2 is overkill (but the best kind, you can always turn them down) and even the little brother the table tuba is pretty loving fantastic for HT use. Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Jan 9, 2019 |
# ? Jan 9, 2019 16:48 |
|
Incessant Excess posted:I'm looking into getting a subwoofer for my hometheater and was looking at a few different options, sadly, a lot of the common recommendations I've seen are US only or, in the case of SVS, outside my budget. The subwoofer forum on AVS could probably help here, I know there's a British company that makes affordable subs that look similar to Hsu designs but I can't remember the name.
|
# ? Jan 9, 2019 17:44 |
|
Incessant Excess posted:Buy once, shed tears only singularly, got it. What country are you in? I agree with everyone else that a 12" sub is such a huge upgrade over a 10" that I would rather live without one and put the money in a bank for 6 months until I saved up the difference. Here's my nuclear take on the SVS - the big upgrade wasn't replacing the Polk PSW505 in the living room with with SVS. It was replacing the PSW10 in my 12*20 office with the PSW505. I can have a proper rave in here, now. Edit: The only bad thing is the PSW10 was the PERFECT height to use as a footrest under my desk. The 505 is too big. KillHour fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Jan 9, 2019 |
# ? Jan 9, 2019 19:37 |
|
More specifically on the DIY route, you should check out the V.B.S.S. (Value Buster Subwoofer System) It uses the Dayton PA460 18" subwoofer that's $100 on Parts Express and can be built using a single 4x8 sheet of mdf. You would also need to buy an amplifier but it doesn't require gobs of power so that helps with the cost there. It's one of the best bangs for your buck you could get. Scrapez fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Jan 9, 2019 |
# ? Jan 9, 2019 20:44 |
|
Scrapez posted:More specifically on the DIY route, you should check out the V.B.S.S. (Value Buster Subwoofer System) Seems like a pretty decent design considering the output. Factor in the suggested new inuke amp with DSP, a sheet of MDF (I loving hate MDF for speakers), cables, connections, glue and such and you're well under $500.
|
# ? Jan 10, 2019 15:04 |
|
|
# ? Jun 5, 2024 21:39 |
|
Thanks for the advice guys. As I lack the skill and knowledge needed to build my own subwoofer, I ended up going with a manufactured alternative.
|
# ? Jan 10, 2019 17:52 |