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Torque converter just exploded in front of a 4l60e. Horrible grinding. Stopped driving almost immediately but truck has to be towed. Is there any chance the transmission isn't a paperweight?
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Jan 11, 2019 02:24
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kid sinister posted:I'm getting ready to sell my old 1988 F150 and something occurred to me. Just how rare is it to have cruise control on a manual? Mine does and I've never seen that before or since. Then again, you don't see many manuals these days. Here's a list of the manuals I've owned. * indicates the ones that had cruise control. * 1988 Honda Accord LXi 1988 Honda Accord DX * 1996 Honda Civic EX * 1995 Honda Civic EX * 2001 Honda Accord LX * 1999 Nissan Altima GXE * 2006 Saturn Ion 3 * 2006 Saturn Ion 2 Of the cars that had it, it was standard equipment for that trim level, not optional, except on the Ion 2 (it's optioned really oddly... has a sunroof, PW/PL/PM, keyless entry... all stuff you normally don't see on the 2 - it's only missing foglights, headlights, the higher trim stereo, and was missing the auto dimming mirror [which I kept from the old car]). It wasn't an available option on the Accord DX; all other trims got it. The Saturns have been smart enough to disengage cruise if you knock it into neutral without touching the clutch; all but the 01 Accord would just bounce off the rev limiter if you did that (the 01 would bang it once, then disengage cruise). tl;dr just as common as on automatics unless it's a stripper or fleet vehicle. GF's 2005 Toyota Matrix (manual) doesn't have cruise, but it's just a matter of adding a $100 kit since her car is DBW (the only options she has are floor mats and a cargo net... doesn't even have the rear wiper). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Jan 11, 2019 |
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Jan 11, 2019 06:53
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My 2003 Cavalier didn't have it, but it had manual windows and mirrors and didn't even have a tape player in the head unit, so...
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Jan 11, 2019 07:17
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It's standard in semis which are 99.9% manual. Even the "it's what's available, new guy" ancient fleet beaters had it when I was doing that. If I wanna attach a water tank under the floor of my van, are sheet metal screws enough or do I have to do some kind of bolt through the floor? I ask because the latter would SUCK now that I have the flooring in and everything else on top of it. Javid fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Jan 11, 2019 |
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Jan 11, 2019 07:23
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Amazingly cruise control is still optional on the Euro-market Fiesta, even in ST trim. Not adaptive cruise control, just plain cruise control. Yes, it's an electronic throttle. The cruise control option is literally just a different face on the steering wheel with one more 5-way control switch and a few bits flipped in software. Somehow this actually makes sense. I'd really have assumed that once a vehicle goes to electronic throttle the economies of scale of producing one steering wheel configuration would outweigh whatever margins they're generating from the artificial segmentation. My '03 Ranger didn't have cruise, but it was a base model other than the long bed and cloth seat upgrades. My '02 BMW, '13 Kia, and '15 Fiesta all have cruise with three pedals.
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Jan 11, 2019 07:29
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Uthor posted:My 2003 Cavalier didn't have it, but it had manual windows and mirrors and didn't even have a tape player in the head unit, so... Yeah, it's an option on the Ion I currently have, though I'd say about half of the 2's I've seen have it. I've seen a handful of 1's (they killed off the 1 after 04 or 05), but they were manual everything, cruise wasn't available on them (they didn't even have as much sound deadening). IIRC the only options available on the 1 were an automatic transmission and air conditioning. I've never seen another 2 with a sunroof or map lights though (pretty sure they come bundled, the sunroof switch is between the map lights). Hell, seeing the sunroof on a 3 (top of the line) isn't that common. The only thing I've been able to come up with is it was probably a dealer demo (going by the miles it had when first registered - about 2000). wolrah posted:Amazingly cruise control is still optional on the Euro-market Fiesta, even in ST trim. Not adaptive cruise control, just plain cruise control. Yes, it's an electronic throttle. The cruise control option is literally just a different face on the steering wheel with one more 5-way control switch and a few bits flipped in software. Somehow this actually makes sense. DBW makes it a lot easier for a dealer to upsell cruise control on a base model car, for "only" $1500 or something stupid like that. Just toss the switch in and flash the PCM. Or if it's a mid 00s Toyota, just add the switch, I guess? I've seen kits on Amazon for GF's car that claim to add factory cruise, and it appears to be just the switches. If that's it, then I'm just gonna go to a junkyard and get the switch and skip paying $150 for a "kit". randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:37 on Jan 11, 2019 |
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Jan 11, 2019 07:33
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e: damnit
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Jan 11, 2019 07:37
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Javid posted:If I wanna attach a water tank under the floor of my van, are sheet metal screws enough or do I have to do some kind of bolt through the floor? I ask because the latter would SUCK now that I have the flooring in and everything else on top of it. How big of a tank? Water is heavy.
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Jan 11, 2019 08:12
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Honestly, if I CAN attach stuff under there, I'll want at least two 5 gallon tanks and possibly one or more coach batteries, since there's a ton of room between the floor and the bottom of the body, and my internal space is limited.
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Jan 11, 2019 08:44
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You need to listen to this guy:Uthor posted:How big of a tank? Water is heavy. 20kg tanks of water? Sheet metal screws will rip right through the floor. Even bolts with 1" washers are probably going to fail in a short space of time. You'll need to make a cradle that bolts onto a pair of chassis rails and sit the tanks onto it. Google for van conversions into campers for your particular model and see what options you have.
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Jan 11, 2019 11:41
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Javid posted:It's standard in semis which are 99.9% manual. Even the "it's what's available, new guy" ancient fleet beaters had it when I was doing that. Javid posted:Honestly, if I CAN attach stuff under there, I'll want at least two 5 gallon tanks and possibly one or more coach batteries, since there's a ton of room between the floor and the bottom of the body, and my internal space is limited. So that's over 40 lbs of water in each tank, not counting the tank itself. Now imagine that in an accident where forward momentum stops rapidly. Yes, of course it needs to be bolted through the floor, as well as being in proper tanks made for this purpose, otherwise they'll have to be strapped appropriately and likely need what the poster above me mentioned.
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Jan 11, 2019 15:46
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Honestly, enough sheet metal screws will hold the tank. And the sheet metal will most likely tear away like tissue paper.
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Jan 11, 2019 16:03
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Dolphin posted:Torque converter just exploded in front of a 4l60e. Horrible grinding. Stopped driving almost immediately but truck has to be towed. Is there any chance the transmission isn't a paperweight? How's the fluid look?
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Jan 11, 2019 16:56
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C-Bangin' it 
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Why do some cars blow huge clouds of white condensation when it's cold outside, but others don't? My current working theory is that turbos cause everything to heat up so much faster that they don't blow visible water vapor when warming up like most cars seem to.
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Jan 11, 2019 17:27
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My gf bought a 2016 Toyota Camry XLE from Carvana, which according to the Carfax came from New Jersey. The car has 22k miles on it. We live in Arizona, where things don't really rust, and I was inspecting the car and noticed some rust here and there. Can anyone who is familiar with this sort of thing tell me if this is an acceptable amount to see on the struts + engine if the car is only about 3 years old?  
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Jan 11, 2019 18:49
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That's nothing.
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Jan 11, 2019 18:56
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Oh sweet summer child.
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Jan 11, 2019 18:57
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My nail clipper has more rust.
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Jan 11, 2019 18:58
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They roll out of northern factories with more rust.
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Jan 11, 2019 18:59
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Cool, good to know. Sorry you guys live where you have the bad seasons.
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Jan 11, 2019 19:01
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Big Bowie Bonanza posted:Cool, good to know. Sorry you guys live where you have the bad seasons. I live in Phoenix and have had cars come with more rust than that from the lot 
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Jan 11, 2019 19:07
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I don't see any rust. What you talk about?
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Jan 11, 2019 19:44
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I think my WRX in Wisconsin had that much rust by the end of its first summer. I guess I can have infinite fresh water from a backyard well that I don't have to worry about going dry or being used up by everyone around me so it's a tradeoff.
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Jan 11, 2019 20:57
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shortspecialbus posted:I guess I can have infinite fresh water from a backyard well that I don't have to worry about going dry or being used up by everyone around me so it's a tradeoff. You're just jealous that you don't get to practice living in a Mad Max hellscape already.
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Jan 11, 2019 21:52
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MetaJew posted:Does anyone here own a Hyudai Genesis Coupe or another similar vintage Hyundai? I'm trying to diagnose and fix a problem I noticed on my girlfriend's 2010 3.8 gen coupe. Sorry to be that guy, but bumping this question to the new page.
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Jan 11, 2019 22:04
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Can you find a copy of the factory service manual online? Generally speaking things like that would be best solved with that information. You could also blindly take apart the dash.
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Jan 11, 2019 22:38
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Dolphin posted:Torque converter just exploded in front of a 4l60e. Horrible grinding. Stopped driving almost immediately but truck has to be towed. Is there any chance the transmission isn't a paperweight? Hard to say, it sounds like the torque converter failed internally and ate itself in which case your trans may be fine. There is still a chance the trans failed suddenly and the torque converter was locked which could break a weak converter. Either way you probably need to have it looked at and best case you'll need to have the trans opened up to check for torque converter shrapnel that may have gotten into the main trans.
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Jan 11, 2019 23:01
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Edit, reading is hard.
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Jan 11, 2019 23:09
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Wrar posted:Can you find a copy of the factory service manual online? Generally speaking things like that would be best solved with that information. You could also blindly take apart the dash. I just found an FSM actually and was going to edit my post. Looks like a pretty easy job to access the part.  
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Jan 11, 2019 23:20
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MetaJew: Which side of the car do the refrigerant lines enter/exit the evaporator - passenger side? Reason I say this is my CR-V had that exact same symptom, where it is a single-zone system with just one blend door / one actuator motor. A/C would be cold on the passenger side, warm to full on ineffective on the driver's. System pressures seemed okay, it definitely wasn't leaking anything. It ended up being the expansion valve was failing and eventually stuck closed. Enough liquid refrigerant would get through to cool the first part of the core, but it would all evaporate long before it got to the far end (driver's side) of the core. The way I ended up diagnosing it was I decided to go ahead and do a full recharge on the system, which finally made the valve stick shut for good. The compressor would generate good pressure on the high side, but had a hard vacuum on the suction side no matter how much I fed it. It was, of course, a royal motherfucker of a job to do for a $40 part. The other possibility is that the blend door itself has failed.
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Jan 11, 2019 23:31
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If I'm putting a new ground into sheetmetal, does it matter what kind of bolt I use? (I'm mostly thinking of finish type - I'd like to use black bolts, something like this: https://www.mcmaster.com/94414a361 ) Is that going to instantly rust or galvanize something it shouldn't? Does it matter if I have a stainless nut on a black-finish bolt, or something like that? Krakkles fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Jan 12, 2019 |
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Jan 12, 2019 00:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:MetaJew: Which side of the car do the refrigerant lines enter/exit the evaporator - passenger side? Yeah that is my fear-- that something is hosed in the refrigerant system itself. I believe the refrigerant lines on the Genesis enter on the passenger side. I am debating what to do. It's tempting to just try replacing the blend door actuator and see if that fixes the problem. If it doesn't I guess I could just take it into a local import auto shop and ask them to diagnose it if it's an issue with the refrigerant system. I don't think my girlfriend is really interested in keeping the car much longer or putting too much money into it, though. And, after helping my brother overhaul the entire AC on a 2001 Tacoma, I don't think I want to get into tearing apart the dash on the genesis. So it might be trade-in time. She tells me she wants a 2015+ Cayman (Which I selfishly wouldn't mind her getting, but I keep trying to impress on her that we will have to do a better job of keeping the maintenance up to date, and she actually has to tell me when something starts acting weird.) Thanks for the advice!
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Jan 12, 2019 00:26
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MetaJew posted:Yeah that is my fear-- that something is hosed in the refrigerant system itself. I believe the refrigerant lines on the Genesis enter on the passenger side. If you have a low refrigerant charge and that type of setup (where they are in series with the pass side fed first) you'll get those same symptoms, and it could be a "toss in a pound because it's 9 years old and that's a totally normal amount of refrigerant to lose in that time".
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Jan 12, 2019 00:41
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Motronic posted:Not knowing that car's AC layout - it's entirely possible that it's got an evap on each side. Check the FSM for that. CTRL+F'ing through the FSM, it looks like there is just one evaporator: 
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Jan 12, 2019 01:11
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Krakkles posted:If I'm putting a new ground into sheetmetal, does it matter what kind of bolt I use? (I'm mostly thinking of finish type - I'd like to use black bolts, something like this: https://www.mcmaster.com/94414a361 ) How much current are you grounding? I typically use a sheet metal screw with a star washer to dig in.
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Jan 12, 2019 01:59
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Motronic posted:So that's over 40 lbs of water in each tank, not counting the tank itself. Now imagine that in an accident where forward momentum stops rapidly. Tanks built for this have what, something like built-in bolt holes/flanges? I hadn't even considered that possibility, I had assumed I would be running straps around whatever tanks I found. So like a bolt with huge fender washers + lock nuts would be the standard here? The existing subfloor battery box is all sheet metal screws, but it's not hanging from them.
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Jan 12, 2019 02:38
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StormDrain posted:How much current are you grounding? I typically use a sheet metal screw with a star washer to dig in.
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Jan 12, 2019 02:54
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MetaJew posted:CTRL+F'ing through the FSM, it looks like there is just one evaporator: With a single blend door, I'm not seeing any way the blend door or actuator would be able to fail in a way where you get part hot part cold. If you can get to it easily no reason not to spend the time diagnosing it further, but I'd bet your next steps should revolve around the refrigerant system. An evac/refill by itself is not difficult.
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Jan 12, 2019 03:15
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Javid posted:Tanks built for this have what, something like built-in bolt holes/flanges? I hadn't even considered that possibility, I had assumed I would be running straps around whatever tanks I found. Depends on the tank material. If it's plastic it probably has a plastic flange on at least 2 sides, with some sort of strapping going to a piece of metal that covers the entire flange, and a matching piece of metal (or one you need to make/buy) to go UNDER your sheet metal, then both through both of them. with the tank and sheet metal in the middle. To demonstrate why this is so important, some quick calculations: if you are doing 60 MPH and hit something the impact force of each of those tanks is over 1000 lbs. So your fastening system better be able to hold more than double that unless you think having a couple of half ton boxes flying around the cabin sounds like a nice cheery on top of an already bad day. IOwnCalculus posted:With a single blend door, I'm not seeing any way the blend door or actuator would be able to fail in a way where you get part hot part cold. That's my take based on the diagram as well, but I'm going to guess there might be another blend door outside of that diagram for individual front temps (probably just something in the ductwork to the driver's side).
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Jan 12, 2019 16:34
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Motronic posted:That's my take based on the diagram as well, but I'm going to guess there might be another blend door outside of that diagram for individual front temps (probably just something in the ductwork to the driver's side). It doesn't have dual zone temp controls. Can you elaborate?
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Jan 12, 2019 17:09
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