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MetaJew posted:It doesn't have dual zone temp controls. Can you elaborate? Ohhhh, totally wrong assumption then. I'd definitely go with IOCs suggestion of getting someone to put a set of gauges on that thing to make sure you aren't chasing your tail around a low refrigerant problem. As previously mentioned, at 8-9 years it's pretty typical to have lost enough refrigerant through seals and barrier hoses to start having cooling problems. This doesn't mean your system is necessarily in need of repair, it's just an expected amount of refrigerant seep. It's worse on stuff with more joints/longer hoses so it's hard to say what is normal for any particular vehicle, but you're definitely in the age range where it wouldn't be surprising on a system that I'm assuming hasn't been touched since new.
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Jan 12, 2019 17:42
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Motronic posted:Ohhhh, totally wrong assumption then. I'd definitely go with IOCs suggestion of getting someone to put a set of gauges on that thing to make sure you aren't chasing your tail around a low refrigerant problem. As previously mentioned, at 8-9 years it's pretty typical to have lost enough refrigerant through seals and barrier hoses to start having cooling problems. This doesn't mean your system is necessarily in need of repair, it's just an expected amount of refrigerant seep. It's worse on stuff with more joints/longer hoses so it's hard to say what is normal for any particular vehicle, but you're definitely in the age range where it wouldn't be surprising on a system that I'm assuming hasn't been touched since new. Appreciate the input! The car definitely has not had much maintenance other than me doing the oil changes. After having a performance shop gently caress up an alignment and ruin a set of tires, too I'm hesitant to go to many shops. There is one that's been around for 40+ years with good reviews that I'm probably going to take both her car and mine to get some diagnoses done though.
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Jan 12, 2019 19:40
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Hey guys, I know there used to be a Toyoburu thread, but I can't find it, so this'll have to go here. I took my 2013 FR-S manual with 26k miles into my local dealer for the valve spring recall. With the engine out, they have also suggested the following: -Replace the clutch: $300 parts, $295 labor (2-3 hours?) as they claim it has unusual wear. Here's the picture they sent with it already out? I don't know what "unusual wear" should look like. The disk is $91 on the Toyota site, though they may be replacing other things too (plus markup of course)? -Replace spark plugs $100 parts, $130 labor (1 hour?) - seems like typical dealer markup on the plugs, and an hour of labor is probably excessive, but also not that much a concern. I know these aren't supposed to be replaced until 60k miles, but it's also six years old at this point. -Clean mass air flow meter of deposits - $91 - this seems like BS -Induction service to clean fuel delivery system - $218 - this really seems like BS -Four wheel alignment as he says they had to remove suspension parts which seems like they should have to pay for it themself as part of the recall - $130 Does this make sense?
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Jan 12, 2019 20:56
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My internet sleuthing is giving a bunch of conflicting answers. Can I not weld in a cat converter in California and have it be street legal? I read that aftermarket is illegal, there is an aftermarket list (whose link doesn't work), apparently I cannot go to a pick n pull and grab a pair there because its not legal to sell used cats in California, All these answers are making it sound like California law makers want you to buy an entirely new car if your cats get stolen/damaged. I'm gonna call up a ref program and see what can be done in regards to a dealer selling me an illegal car, but I want to know if the only answer is gonna be "return the car and get a full refund".
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Jan 12, 2019 21:49
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CAFE. You sweet summer child.
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Jan 12, 2019 21:51
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C-Bangin' it 
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Endless Mike posted:Hey guys, I know there used to be a Toyoburu thread, but I can't find it, so this'll have to go here. I took my 2013 FR-S manual with 26k miles into my local dealer for the valve spring recall. With the engine out, they have also suggested the following: Granted I'm not up on this recall but figured they drop it all so why even break it apart to look at the clutch unless it has an inspection cover.
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Jan 12, 2019 21:55
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Colostomy Bag posted:CAFE. You sweet summer child. I think you mean CARB. https://ww2.arb.ca.gov/aftermarket-catalytic-converters Dagen H fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Jan 12, 2019 |
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Jan 12, 2019 22:09
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Colostomy Bag posted:Granted I'm not up on this recall but figured they drop it all so why even break it apart to look at the clutch unless it has an inspection cover. It's just the engine out, not the whole drivetrain.
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Jan 12, 2019 22:12
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Endless Mike posted:Hey guys, I know there used to be a Toyoburu thread, but I can't find it, so this'll have to go here. I took my 2013 FR-S manual with 26k miles into my local dealer for the valve spring recall. With the engine out, they have also suggested the following: I'll respond inline. -Replace the clutch: $300 parts, $295 labor (2-3 hours?) as they claim it has unusual wear. [url=https://i.imgur.com/0W52uD1.jpg] Eh that looks like typical wear to me. Typical clutch job should include the throwout bearing, clutch disk and a new flywheel or resurfacing it. -Replace spark plugs $100 parts, $130 labor (1 hour?). The engine is already out they could do this in 5-10 minutes. $130 labor when the engine is out is total horseshit. I think spark plugs don't really age except with use but I'll let another AI veteran correct me. -Clean mass air flow meter of deposits - $91 - this seems like BS This is BS. You could do it yourself with 15 minutes and a bottle of electrical contact cleaner for $10. -Induction service to clean fuel delivery system - $218 - this really seems like BS Extra stinky bullshit. -Four wheel alignment as he says they had to remove suspension parts which seems like they should have to pay for it themself as part of the recall - $130 Tell them to pound nails in their dick. Their is absolutely no reason they had to touch the suspension in your car. Raise hell with Toyota Corporate over this. The dealer is trying to take you for a ride. quote:Granted I'm not up on this recall but figured they drop it all so why even break it apart to look at the clutch unless it has an inspection cover.
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Jan 12, 2019 22:17
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Thanks for your response! I figured it was bullshit, and that if the clutch really *is* bad, I'll just end up having to pay for it eventually, anyway. For the curious, here's the technical manual for the recall: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uUifSeVStrBwh9V794hy8a1_dVLZl_w7/view Edit: lol the spark plugs come out as part of the procedure. gently caress these guys. Endless Mike fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Jan 12, 2019 |
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Jan 12, 2019 22:27
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Yeah the spark plug thing is BS, I've used plugs much older than 6 years without problems they are just looking for stuff to sell you. Otherwise what Wrar said is correct as far as I can tell. I can't comment on the clutch as I mostly drive autos.
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Jan 12, 2019 22:30
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Dagen H posted:I think you mean CARB. So basically, SOL as I cannot use one from another vehicle and drat if I can find 2 cats labeled "carb compliant" without having "non" in front of it.
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Jan 12, 2019 22:49
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Leal posted:So basically, SOL as I cannot use one from another vehicle and drat if I can find 2 cats labeled "carb compliant" without having "non" in front of it. This isn’t a rare problem, and it’s not at all unsolvable. I’ve done it at least twice in my car ownership in California - my recollection is that one was an order from summit, the other was either pep boys or autozone.
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Jan 12, 2019 22:55
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Krakkles posted:You’re correct that you can’t put in a used cat, but you absolutely should be able to find new legal cats. What car are you looking for cats for, and what size? 04 Ford Mustang GT, 4.6l. I've checked auto zone, amazon and ebay and all just return parts with (non carb) in the name.
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Jan 12, 2019 23:08
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Looks like rockauto has them, though I don't know if you have the DOHC, SOHC, or supercharged version (or if there is a difference other than header between the first two).
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Jan 12, 2019 23:13
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An 04 Mustang GT is SOHC.
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Jan 12, 2019 23:15
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Eastern-Catalytic-Direct-fit-Catalytic-Converters-50-State-Legal-/163388241419?nav=SEARCH That's about the price for it anywhere, rockauto shows CARB compliant.
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Jan 12, 2019 23:23
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Thanks, now I can actually make a budget for the next few months! E: Assuming the Ref program doesn't have my back
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Jan 12, 2019 23:24
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Leal posted:Thanks, now I can actually make a budget for the next few months! E: Assuming the Ref program doesn't have my back ps eastern catalytic sucks but yeah its most likely your only option did you check craigslist? its illegal to sell used cats but theyre on there all the time, mustang especially. Cage fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Jan 13, 2019 |
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Jan 13, 2019 02:12
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I don’t know what this is like federally, but you really don’t want to get caught doing that in California. Just buy a new one.
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Jan 13, 2019 03:00
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Endless Mike posted:Hey guys, I know there used to be a Toyoburu thread, but I can't find it, so this'll have to go here. I took my 2013 FR-S manual with 26k miles into my local dealer for the valve spring recall. With the engine out, they have also suggested the following: They're loving you. They're trying to pass on their loving on having to pull an engine under recall work. Escalate this to corporate. Leal posted:My internet sleuthing is giving a bunch of conflicting answers. Can I not weld in a cat converter in California and have it be street legal? I read that aftermarket is illegal, there is an aftermarket list (whose link doesn't work), apparently I cannot go to a pick n pull and grab a pair there because its not legal to sell used cats in California, CARB certified cats are tested then given model and serial numbers hence the premium. It is likely that some generic cats will underperform which shows on the dyno test. Get generic CARB legal cats and weld em in yourself. The state or Fed can not stop you from doing your own repairs, especially with new legal parts. even a shitbox $100 HF 110V buzzbox will do the trick. Do not waste your money or time on used catalytics. Period.
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Jan 13, 2019 06:37
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Dagen H posted:I think you mean CARB. I stand corrected.
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Jan 13, 2019 15:21
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Here's my dumb question: According to the official website the 2019 Dodge Challenger SCAT Pack is the width as the Widebody even though it is supposed to be three inches wider. Looking at pictures it seems that maybe the fenders don't go out past the mirrors and that's why the dimensions are the same?
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Jan 13, 2019 17:51
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cursedshitbox posted:They're loving you. They're trying to pass on their loving on having to pull an engine under recall work. Escalate this to corporate. I have an ex that was a service writer at 3 of the 4 local Toyota dealerships. His theory on Toyota reliability is that they did so much premature and/or unnecessary maintenance, the cars couldn't possibly break down.
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Jan 13, 2019 18:46
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There used to be a guy either in AI or in SA mart who would call utilities and insurance providers to negotiate lower bills. Who was that, are they still in business, and/or is there a guide on how to steer a phone conversation with an underwriter to the tune of "I know you're trying to incrementally raise my rates hoping I don't notice, knock it off?"
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Jan 14, 2019 01:59
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Man I just rate shop every few years, probably doesn't look the greatest. But, like, progressive will climb from 50 to 75/month over two years, so I switched to USAA for better coverage for $45. Then, in 2-3 years when USAA is inevitably $65 I'll glomp to Geico or something. Cox rose from $35 to over $60 over four years, and no amount of negotiation fixed it. So I dropped internet for a month and signed up as new for $30. gently caress 'em.
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Jan 14, 2019 02:12
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I think switching every couple years is ok; it's gaps that sometimes worry new insurers from what I've heard. I also switch every two or three years because just nope to ratecreep. I tried to reason with a Nationwide rep one time, bit all I got was a canned "that's the rate" response. So now I switch back and forth with them and Progressive every so often just to keep the rates low. Minor hassle, but saves a couple hundred bucks a year.
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Jan 14, 2019 03:52
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Hey question about body work. A couple weeks ago I bumped the back of a truck and their hitch punched a hole in my front bumper cover, the actual metal bumper is fine aside from a slight dent but the cover itself is kinda torn up from the hitch, so Im pretty sure I'm going to need to replace it. Is it worth buying a pre-painted cover off eBay or something and trying to replace it myself, or is this the kind of job that's cheap/simple enough to just have an average ahop do it? It's a 2010 prius if that affects anything.
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Jan 14, 2019 15:37
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^ You could go the route of buying a pre-painted bumper cover, however it will undoubtedly be darker than the paint on your car due to ~10 years of UV exposure. If you have the work done at a body shop they can match the paint. Get some quotes from local body shops, depending on where its located they may be able to fix the hole without having to replace the entire cover.
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Jan 14, 2019 16:25
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Geoj posted:^ Doubtful, plastic bumper pieces are usually a replace item if there’s more than 2-3 hours of repair, and with missing material from a hole they’ll want to replace it.
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Jan 14, 2019 17:37
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If the surrounding parts aren't too bad (i.e intact clear coat), a good compounding and polish will likely help to the colours to the point of being very closely matched. Kinda depends on type of paint and condition.
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Jan 14, 2019 18:13
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A shop will give you a much more consistant result and they'll blend the paint so if there is a color difference you won't easily be able to tell, eBay parts are doable but depending on your paint color it will almost certainly be a bit off assuming the ebay supplier even properly matched it in the first place. It's a bit of a roll of the dice, I replaced the rear spoiler on my Camry from ebay and it matched perfectly but I knew a guy who got a rear bumper for his white corolla and it wasn't even close and started to yellow as it got older.
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Jan 15, 2019 00:27
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Autoexec.bat posted:Hard to say, it sounds like the torque converter failed internally and ate itself in which case your trans may be fine. There is still a chance the trans failed suddenly and the torque converter was locked which could break a weak converter. Either way you probably need to have it looked at and best case you'll need to have the trans opened up to check for torque converter shrapnel that may have gotten into the main trans. I had it towed to a garage. They quoted me 1500 for a trans rebuild due to reverse not working. I suspect they're thinking broken sunshell. I'm inclined to say torque converter because the grinding occurs in park (and other gears) and since as far as I know only the torque converter is moving in park nothing else could be causing the grind. Grinding mostly disappeared when truck was in drive but coasting. Fluid is bright red. No signs of wear. I also noticed the car ate through a lot of gas very quickly. 2000 s10, 4l60e trans, 2 wheel drive for anyone tuning in.
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Jan 15, 2019 18:26
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A 2000 S10, I'd have a hard time not just throwing a junkyard trans at it and calling it good. Especially if it's one already attached to a V8.  I'm personally having a hard time understanding how a torque converter can fail in a way that it would grind but wouldn't have visible damage, and the sun shell is a common failure on the 700R4 family.
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Jan 15, 2019 18:58
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The no reverse and grinding sound like sunshell to me. And $1500 is a fair price.
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Jan 15, 2019 19:03
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IOwnCalculus posted:A 2000 S10, I'd have a hard time not just throwing a junkyard trans at it and calling it good. rdb posted:The no reverse and grinding sound like sunshell to me. And $1500 is a fair price. Dolphin fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Jan 15, 2019 |
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Jan 15, 2019 19:06
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Stripped out sunshell sends bits everywhere. It could have contaminated the pump or any number of bearings. It needs a tear down.
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Jan 15, 2019 19:12
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I'm not relying on this truck so I'd rather just shove it in my garage and throw another trans into it. Is there any way to make sure another transmission isn't going to do exactly the same thing or is it literally just a crapshoot? Like I said this one supposedly had 50k miles but only lasted a month and a half. I definitely don't trust myself to do a trans rebuild.
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Jan 15, 2019 19:26
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Dolphin posted:I'm not relying on this truck so I'd rather just shove it in my garage and throw another trans into it. Is there any way to make sure another transmission isn't going to do exactly the same thing or is it literally just a crapshoot? Like I said this one supposedly had 50k miles but only lasted a month and a half. I definitely don't trust myself to do a trans rebuild. It's a crapshoot. That junkyard trans could be the reason that car is in the junkyard. You could grab one from the junkyard and drop it off at a rebuilder, then take it home, put it on and fill it up.
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Jan 15, 2019 22:54
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Your best bet on a junkyard trans is to take it from a car that either had a bad accident or rusted out or something else obvious. If it looks pristine it likely has a bad trans or engine in it. Still no guarantee that you'll get a good one or one that will last and that's why they are generally so cheap. From your description though I would trust the mechanic's diagnosis on this one. I personally would either save to have the mechanic fix it or find a good used one and have it looked at before installation.
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Jan 16, 2019 00:48
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