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Wife got me front and rear r package clone lips for christmas. Finally got them fully installed. Hardest part was cutting the mud flaps to fit the rear lip. Luckily my rear bumper still had the markings for where to drill. Front did not so had to measure and mark. Binder clips come in handy for this job.
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# ? Dec 30, 2018 19:12 |
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# ? May 26, 2024 21:44 |
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Just get the rotors off Amazon. They will be cheaper and you won't have to gently caress around with warehouse roulette on RA. Basic Centric rotors are all you need. I put the same ones on my race car. For pads, whatever your local parts store has for ceramics. I just put Wagner ThermoQuiets on the wife's Forester and they seem fine enough.
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# ? Dec 31, 2018 04:27 |
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FatCow posted:Just get the rotors off Amazon. They will be cheaper and you won't have to gently caress around with warehouse roulette on RA. Basic Centric rotors are all you need. I put the same ones on my race car. Sometimes amazon warehouse has raybestos ceramic pads for $5 a set. Where i got mine.
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# ? Dec 31, 2018 05:02 |
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Don that lip looks good. Goons, do you have an opinion on top radiator replacements? I've done some reading on miata.net and the Miata turbo cooling thread. I'm debating between the super Miata cross flow rad, and a koyo down flow as replacements on the red *race car*. Car will see spirited back roads driving, auto cross and maybe the occasional members track day.
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# ? Jan 1, 2019 05:53 |
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FatCow posted:Just get the rotors off Amazon. They will be cheaper and you won't have to gently caress around with warehouse roulette on RA. Basic Centric rotors are all you need. I put the same ones on my race car. I don't know about cheaper, RA has the basic 121 series centrics for 15$ CAD for fronts where as amazon is ~30$ CAD. Shipping might make up the difference though.
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# ? Jan 1, 2019 15:33 |
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Rock Auto is cheaper if you're willing to jump through the warehouse shipping roulette hoops. Always Google a discount code for 5% off too.
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# ? Jan 1, 2019 16:07 |
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Actual numbers for a 2006 Miata to my zip for rotors. Rock Auto: $81.50 Amazon: $77.78 and it comes in 2 days Pads & Rotors: Rock Auto: $156.07 (Because the front pads, that only work in a NC Miata, and the front rotors, that also only work on a NC Miata, are in different places) Amazon: $131.55 Because why should the front and rear rotors be stocked in the same warehouse? The only application for the fronts is the NC Miata, but the matching rear rotors aren't in the same warehouse. This is why I don't even bother with RA anymore. Their piss poor inventory management being made my problem just irritates the poo poo out of me. 3 shipping charges for the pads & rotors when 1/2 the parts only work on a single car. The rear pads only work on a Fiat 124 and NC Miata and come from a different warehouse than the rear rotors they work with. Unless you literally don't care in the slightest at which brand/quality parts you are buying, or are buying only one part, RA is almost never the right choice. Amazon is no better as my latest order came in a ton of different boxes, but they at least isolate me from it and don't make me directly pay for it.
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# ? Jan 1, 2019 22:35 |
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I really like everything about Rock Auto other than their warehouse/shipping nonsense. I feel bad using them to look up part numbers and 95% of the time buying them on Amazon, but what're ya gonna do.
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# ? Jan 1, 2019 22:49 |
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Centric 120 rotors are worth buying over 121, they have a coating on the non-friction surfaces and won't get all rusty on the hats and such. RA and amazon prices are usually around my cost but after all the shipping BS I can usually be pretty close and everything comes from the same place usually. But none of my distributors have a full set of matching rotors for that car and very few pads right now so I'm probably not much help.
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# ? Jan 1, 2019 23:17 |
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FatCow posted:Actual numbers for a 2006 Miata to my zip for rotors. I just checked this same thing for a 2008 Miata (since that's what homeboy has) and did it for front and rear, stuck with centric brand rotors and centric ceramic pads. I expected rock auto to be cheaper since it usually is every other time I've checked, but it was about $.05 more expensive vs. amazon after using the 5% coupon code. Total was $109 and change, so there's my anecdote. I like rock auto anyway, and now have a sick magnet collection.
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# ? Jan 2, 2019 13:51 |
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Don Lapre posted:Wife got me front and rear r package clone lips for christmas. Finally got them fully installed. Hardest part was cutting the mud flaps to fit the rear lip. That looks super. Sigh I miss my red 94
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# ? Jan 4, 2019 05:11 |
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Replaced blower motor resistor, which enabled power to the blower again, but it still made knocking sounds and weird transient rpm changes. Replaced blower motor. A look at the old motor and it doesn’t seem too bad but the bearing is definitely worn out and it there’s a fine powder on the motor facing inside of the fan that looks a lot like burn residue however the copper coils look rather clean. Whatever, new one is working great now. I noticed a drip line of corrosion near the wiring though on the passenger footwell behind the glovebox. Another quest to solve a leak. This time I’ve read on some forums it’s a simple plug under the windshield wiper cowl. Guess I’ll check that when it unfreezes outside.
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# ? Jan 10, 2019 22:22 |
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What's the "Best" NB Miata shop book?
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# ? Jan 11, 2019 19:51 |
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These are kind of where most of the info on the internet gets pulled from, but Miatas are so common if you can find a cheap old tablet and have internet service at your garage it could be more useful for less money. https://www.flyinmiata.com/miata-book-bundle.html
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# ? Jan 11, 2019 21:40 |
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Factory service manuals for free. Can't get much better than that. http://www.mellens.net/mazda/
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# ? Jan 11, 2019 23:23 |
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Deteriorata posted:I've owned one for two years and it has cost me nothing, beyond oil and gas. It's been a terrific car. Thanks for your advice. Which trim did you get? Just bought a 2017 Fiata Lusso. My wife fell in love with the limited edition (supposedly only 124 sold in the US) blue exterior. The low end turbo lag was noticeable when I first drove it, but now just too busy having fun to care. E: photo Mandalay fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Jan 14, 2019 |
# ? Jan 14, 2019 04:08 |
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Those Fiats are ridiculously nice-looking. I just hate how down on power they are now against the ND.
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# ? Jan 14, 2019 04:18 |
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Mandalay posted:Thanks for your advice. Which trim did you get? I have a Lusso with manual transmission, bronze with black interior. There is almost no actual turbo lag with this engine. What people complain about is its performance at low RPM, off boost. The solution to that is to keep the revs up so you're always on boost, and it's a blast. That's harder to do with an automatic, though.
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# ? Jan 14, 2019 05:20 |
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What is lag, if not the delay between going WOT and actually making usable boost?
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# ? Jan 14, 2019 05:26 |
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Deteriorata posted:I have a Lusso with manual transmission, bronze with black interior. Um, you just gave the textbook definition of turbo lag.
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# ? Jan 14, 2019 05:32 |
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If one wishes to be technical, he's saying the car has a modest boost threshold, but no lag. Lag, in this taxonomy, refers to how long the engine takes to develop boost after it's already developing enough revs to create some.
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# ? Jan 14, 2019 06:54 |
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For what it's worth, thoroughly into the category of "but the car has soul, man", turbo lag is not always a bad thing. I laughed my rear end off the one time I got a ride in my dad's friend's 930 and the turbos finally spun up.
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# ? Jan 14, 2019 08:28 |
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Yeah, in the MSM, the 3500-6500 pull was always fun, and predictable.
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# ? Jan 14, 2019 09:00 |
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Goober Peas posted:Um, you just gave the textbook definition of turbo lag. No, turbo lag is when the car is on boost, but the turbo does not respond rapidly to throttle changes. In modern cars, traditional turbo lag has all but disappeared, so people have begun calling the lack of boost at low revs from a standing start "turbo lag," as you have to get up to a certain speed before the turbo kicks in at all.
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# ? Jan 14, 2019 16:27 |
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Deteriorata posted:as you have to get up to a certain speed before the turbo kicks in at all. That... That's literally what turbo lag is. Replace "speed" with RPM.
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# ? Jan 15, 2019 01:32 |
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Nocheez posted:That... That's literally what turbo lag is. Replace "speed" with RPM. No, that's boost threshold. Turbo lag specifically applies to when you're in boost and it represents the time it takes the turbos to react to a throttle change. Say you're at 3000 RPM in 3rd gear. With old turbos, you'd step on the gas and get anemic acceleration for a second or so while the backpressure built up in the exhaust and the turbos spun up to generate more intake pressure. Then you'd get a whoosh of power as they finally responded to the throttle change. That's turbo lag. Modern turbos can respond to throttle changes almost instantaneously and there is almost no lag at all. Lack of boost at low RPMs is just an inherent characteristic of turbocharged engines. It's not a flaw or something that can be fixed, short of adding a supercharger. The power curve is nonlinear, and hitting the boost threshold feels like turbo lag in some ways, but it's not lagging. It's nonlinear. The power curve of a turbocharged engine is linear below the boost threshold, then exponential up to maximum boost, then linear again up to redline. That's inherent in how turbocharging works and isn't any sort of "lag" or flaw. It's just different from a NA engine.
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# ? Jan 15, 2019 02:19 |
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Low intake pressure in turbo is the “lag”anybody talks about. It can be caused by low rpms or low throttle. It’s real pedantic to call one boost threshold and the other lag. I’m not sure where you got the idea that low rpms and low throttle have to be exclusively different named types of turbo power loss. They both mean the turbo is essentially in a lower output state waiting for you to increase power to its fan so it can compress air. The “lag” time after you start delivering power and the fan actually compresses air is definitely not what people solely mean by turbo lag. Anyways you must start a whole lot of arguments over this so you might already begin to see the err in your reasoning. “The turbo don’t do nuthin at low rpms until you get to higher ones is the pretty standard layman definition of lag dude ethanol fucked around with this message at 13:49 on Jan 15, 2019 |
# ? Jan 15, 2019 13:35 |
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ethanol posted:Low intake pressure in turbo is the “lag”anybody talks about. It can be caused by low rpms or low throttle. It’s real pedantic to call one boost threshold and the other lag. I mean, you're entitled to your opinion, but it's wrong. The rpm that the turbo starts making additional power, and turbo lag, are two totally different things to *most* any enthusiast.
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# ? Jan 15, 2019 19:57 |
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Not really. Say I'm accelerate from a stop, and the turbo doesn't make full boost until 3200rpm. When I am below that and floor it, that delay is not turbo lag, it's being below the boost threshold. Now take a different situation where I'm on the highway and downshift to 4th and take my foot off the throttle. Revs are like 4500rpm, throttle plate is closed, boost is zero, manifold under vacuum. Then I floor it. That delay from going to manifold vacuum to full boost is the turbo lag. I know that people and magazines and whatever refer to both as "turbo lag" but there is a difference.
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# ? Jan 15, 2019 20:53 |
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As Hermes Conrad once said, "being technically correct is the best kind of correct!" Certainly the colloquial use of "turbo lag" is something to be aware of, but that doesn't change the technical differentiation between the turbo spooling up but not delivering boost, and the turbo not yet even spooling up. On one hand it doesn't matter what the "laymen" think about what "turbo lag" actually is, and on the other hand what's actually happening in the system doesn't matter to the laymen because the end result is the same. The actual cause of the delay in boost (lag vs. high threshold) is important if you're going to tinker with the system to address that delay, so the semantics are meaningful in that regard. The average driver certainly won't care about the distinction, however.
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# ? Jan 15, 2019 20:56 |
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ethanol posted:Low intake pressure in turbo is the “lag”anybody talks about. It can be caused by low rpms or low throttle. It’s real pedantic to call one boost threshold and the other lag. Then go post about it on "layman car forums" instead.
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# ? Jan 15, 2019 21:00 |
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Russian Bear posted:Then go post about it on "layman car forums" instead.
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# ? Jan 15, 2019 21:12 |
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I had no idea turbo lag was a concept people had difficulty understanding. An oldie but goody. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTw_Qr5uLA4 Start at 0:30. You can hear in this video how he actually stomps on the throttle a second or so before boost actually builds. He's probably already doing 40-50 mph and doesn't downshift. The delay between full throttle and choo choo is turbo lag.
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# ? Jan 15, 2019 21:34 |
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So does antilag fix turbo lag or adjust the boost threshold?
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# ? Jan 15, 2019 22:26 |
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DeNofa posted:So does antilag fix turbo lag or adjust the boost threshold? It fixes turbo lag.
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# ? Jan 15, 2019 22:33 |
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DeNofa posted:So does antilag fix turbo lag or adjust the boost threshold? Sort of both. Antilag is essentially an afterburner that burns raw fuel in the exhaust ahead of the turbo to keep it spinning regardless of engine RPM.
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# ? Jan 15, 2019 22:46 |
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Itt nerds argue about spool and lag.
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# ? Jan 15, 2019 23:49 |
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FatCow posted:Itt nerds argue about spool and lag. I mean, yeah, it's too cold to rip the suspension out of my Miata right now, so might as well argue about dumb poo poo online.
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# ? Jan 15, 2019 23:51 |
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FatCow posted:Itt nerds argue about spool and lag. *flicks cigarette at you*
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# ? Jan 15, 2019 23:58 |
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# ? May 26, 2024 21:44 |
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Russian Bear posted:Then go post about it on "layman car forums" instead. Do you think they’ll put up with my shameful NC Miata? No way. I need you guys
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# ? Jan 16, 2019 01:15 |