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What’s that old one about carpenters blaming their tools? You can usually peen a framing square back square without too much trouble. Combination squares are harder to square back up, but I can’t ever seem to really trust them anyway. e: here’s some lovely wood I’ve been working because it’s the top of the page. I just love mahogany. 
Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Jan 14, 2019 |
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Jan 14, 2019 23:20
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JEEVES420 posted:I grabbed a square at the maker space and someone wrote "not square" on it. Made me laugh as all I could think is "you have one job...be square, how do you gently caress that up?" That seems like putting an empty bottle of milk back in the fridge. Why not just throw it out?
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Jan 14, 2019 23:20
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Tres Burritos posted:That seems like putting an empty bottle of milk back in the fridge. Why not just throw it out? It's still a perfectly good ruler if its non-squareness is made clear to the user.
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Jan 14, 2019 23:27
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That Works posted:I just put a small shim under the sole of my right shoe and fixed it. Laughed at this one Tres Burritos posted:That seems like putting an empty bottle of milk back in the fridge. Why not just throw it out? Like a bucket in my garage with a big HOLE written in sharpie next to a hole in it, it still has a use. Kind of
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Jan 14, 2019 23:28
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Tres Burritos posted:That seems like putting an empty bottle of milk back in the fridge. Why not just throw it out? Super useful when you need a 91-degree angle Harry Potter on Ice posted:Like a bucket in my garage with a big HOLE written in sharpie next to a hole in it, it still has a use. Kind of Basket. Or sieve, depending on hole size.
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Jan 14, 2019 23:46
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Bucket with a hole in it will still hold a trash bag
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Jan 14, 2019 23:53
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Or pretty much any non-liquid contents. Still plenty it can be used for.
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Jan 14, 2019 23:56
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You can usually peen a framing square back square without too much trouble. Combination squares are harder to square back up, but I can’t ever seem to really trust them anyway. They're actually easier! Inside the cast square head are two pads. If the blade/ruler is still sharp, you can take it out and use a corner to shave off half a thousandth or so at a time from whichever pad needs to be shorter to get back to square. Alternatively, a very small file works, or any harder thin sharp cornered piece of steel.
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Jan 14, 2019 23:56
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So my skilsaw circular either sucks or I'm doing something wrong. Cutting 7/16 osb and at some points the goddamn blade just stops turning as if it's caught, usually when I'm toward the middle of the cut so I can't exactly power it back up in the middle because the blade won't turn even there. I did start to think maybe I was going off at an angle with the thing and it was catching because of that, but the next piece I cut I did a makeshift saw guide (okay it was a level clamped at both ends on a line I drew, which I made sure was square) to keep the saw going straight and this still happened. Then I thought maybe this saw is just poo poo and it's not powerful enough to cut through even 7/16 osb. I even checked to make sure the blade was rotating the correct way. This happened on every sheet of osb I cut. I used two sawhorses and supports for the OSB so the edges wouldn't encroach on the blade and cause it to stop turning. If I could cut osb on a miter saw I totally would, but it's looking like the only way to really cut OSB without a table saw is with a circular saw or a hand saw, the latter of which I do not have. So, I have tangent cuts on the edges of the osb, which I'm using for shelves so it's not a huge deal as long as the osb is still covering the 2x4 frames so I have surface area for the screws. What will be the end result is a really rough-looking, imprecise set of wood shelves, but as long as they are square and level when I attach them to the wall, I guess I'm okay with that--but seriously? My circular saw sucks? Or do I suck?
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Jan 15, 2019 00:37
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Sounds like the wood is pinching the blade. When pull the saw out does it run the wood or is it free on both sides? Can you set the blade back in the groove without issue? It might be pinching from underneath or above not the back around the kerf.
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Jan 15, 2019 01:15
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Make sure you're not leaning on the wood to hold it in place. This will cause the wood to bind when it's free enough to twist (usually halfway or more through the cut.) I may or may not have done that a few times...
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Jan 15, 2019 01:31
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JEEVES420 posted:Sounds like the wood is pinching the blade. When pull the saw out does it run the wood or is it free on both sides? Can you set the blade back in the groove without issue? Im voting this. The section of wood that you have already cut is weakening the rest and causing it to bow slightly and pinch the blade, I reckon.
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Jan 15, 2019 01:52
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NPR Journalizard posted:Im voting this. The section of wood that you have already cut is weakening the rest and causing it to bow slightly and pinch the blade, I reckon. Agreed. How are you supporting the piece? It should be supported within a few inches of the blade on either side of the cut as well as further out.
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Jan 15, 2019 02:06
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JEEVES420 posted:I grabbed a square at the maker space and someone wrote "not square" on it. Made me laugh as all I could think is "you have one job...be square, how do you gently caress that up?" Oh hell it happens all the time. One drop on a slab will bend a framing square enough. Trick I learned was you can take a hammer and nail set and if the square is pinched < 90, smack a spot or 2 on the inside area of the angle. It will splay it out. Hit it more toward the outside corner area if it's wider than 90.
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Jan 15, 2019 02:27
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:What’s that old one about carpenters blaming their tools? Christ, that's pretty. No wonder the English trimmed their fine staterooms and warship cabins with it when they ruled the world, it's the stablest lumber, the king of woods. On a totally different note, has anyone ever heard of treated (exterior) cedar? Like for fencing? Neighbor swears the old man who runs the mythical lumberyard past Slaughterville Road said he has some...
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Jan 15, 2019 02:35
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Mr. Mambold posted:Christ, that's pretty. No wonder the English trimmed their fine staterooms and warship cabins with it when they ruled the world, it's the stablest lumber, the king of woods. It soaks up everything like a sponge and I hope you're planning on spraying because if not... lemme know how it goes
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Jan 15, 2019 02:46
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:It soaks up everything like a sponge and I hope you're planning on spraying because if not... lemme know how it goes So you're saying it's available treated? The guy wants it stained/sealed anyway. I'm trying to talk him into regular treated lumber, aka pine. All I'm seeing in a brief goog is pressure treated cedar toned, which sounds like stained pine to me
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Jan 15, 2019 02:53
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If it’s treated and/or getting stained/painted, why would anyone waste cedar on that? Even considering regional stuff. I doubt treated cedar is an actual thing. And sealing it is fine, but staining? Nahhhhh
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Jan 15, 2019 03:02
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Isn't the whole point of using cedar for outdoors is it's "naturally treated"?
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Jan 15, 2019 03:05
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Cedar does look pretty sexy under urethane, imo.
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Jan 15, 2019 03:14
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Mr. Mambold posted:So you're saying it's available treated? The guy wants it stained/sealed anyway. I'm trying to talk him into regular treated lumber, aka pine. All I'm seeing in a brief goog is pressure treated cedar toned, which sounds like stained pine to me No idea there sorry, sounds like pine to me as well Bad Munki posted:If it’s treated and/or getting stained/painted, why would anyone waste cedar on that? Even considering regional stuff. I doubt treated cedar is an actual thing. I did mitered corners in cedar channel shiplap on a house that was later painted. Client had an idea and wouldn't budge. As long as the client is happy I'm.. I can't even lie on that one, that sucked
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Jan 15, 2019 03:16
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JEEVES420 posted:Sounds like the wood is pinching the blade. When pull the saw out does it run the wood or is it free on both sides? Can you set the blade back in the groove without issue? It goes back in the groove with no issue. It has to be pinching the blade because I can’t start the saw in the groove—it seizes. SouthShoreSamurai posted:Make sure you're not leaning on the wood to hold it in place. This will cause the wood to bind when it's free enough to twist (usually halfway or more through the cut.) I may or may not have done that a few times... I don’t think I was leaning on it, but anything is possible when I’m focusing on cutting straight and overall safety. NPR Journalizard posted:Im voting this. The section of wood that you have already cut is weakening the rest and causing it to bow slightly and pinch the blade, I reckon. TooMuchAbstraction posted:Agreed. How are you supporting the piece? It should be supported within a few inches of the blade on either side of the cut as well as further out. Has to be that then. I didn’t think it was pinching. If it was solid wood, I’d have thought I was hitting a knot by how quickly it stopped. I was supporting on either end overhanging the sawhorses with some sawhorses I cobbled together with scrap. I must have been off in my height measurement a bit, so will probably just buy two more of the same sawhorse to cut osb from now on. The saw itself is refurb, blade points are facing toward me so it’s cutting up and counterclockwise. I double checked that numerous times but I could just be a complete idiot and still not have it right—just never had an issue before. Afaik that’s how the blade is supposed to be oriented.
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Jan 15, 2019 03:30
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If you want a hell dodgy solution, get another piece of scrap 2*4 or something, roughly the width of the piece of OSB you are cutting, and then use that to support the edge where you started the cut. Then you can plunge the saw into the existing cut and keep going, albeit slightly downhill.
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Jan 15, 2019 03:40
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JEEVES420 posted:Isn't the whole point of using cedar for outdoors is it's "naturally treated"? It rots though, given time. And bugs will eventually chow down on it. Bad Munki posted:If it’s treated and/or getting stained/painted, why would anyone waste cedar on that? Even considering regional stuff. I doubt treated cedar is an actual thing. Typically stain/sealer combo, 2 coats, boom. Stain gives it a more uniform color. SOME PEOPLE LIEK THAT KAY?
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Jan 15, 2019 03:50
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NPR Journalizard posted:If you want a hell dodgy solution, get another piece of scrap 2*4 or something, roughly the width of the piece of OSB you are cutting, and then use that to support the edge where you started the cut. Then you can plunge the saw into the existing cut and keep going, albeit slightly downhill. Just move the saw horses closer so more weight of the board is on the outside, push through fast and it'll fall away in a ^ shape instead of in, in a V shape. the last inch will be the only hard part. It might cut straight! or put 4 2x4's on the ground, 2 close to the cut on either side, 2 at the ends and set the depth of the saw recycling bins in my area make great sawhorses, throw a coupe of those around evenly gently caress it just put one 4' 2x4 down the middle of the cut and set it to half inch and have at it
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Jan 15, 2019 03:50
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When I'm cutting a full sheet of something, usually plywood, I just cut it on some rigid foam insulation so it's well supported through the entire cut. I have however upgraded to these things http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=76830&cat=1,43455 one of the main benefits for me is that they don't blow away in the wind like the insulation panels do.
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Jan 15, 2019 03:53
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The foam insulation set up is pretty great, that's what I've been using since I've become too lazy to go to my hackerspace and use their panel saw / giant double sawstop setup
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Jan 15, 2019 04:40
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Sockser posted:Ended up just screwing it together in my garage and poo poo Your joysticks are like 1 or 2 inches too short. You have to route out the underside and inset those on wood control panels
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Jan 15, 2019 06:59
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moron izzard posted:Your joysticks are like 1 or 2 inches too short. You have to route out the underside and inset those on wood control panels Yeah, it was a collab with a dude from new york, and he did the control panel. Problem with routing out the underside of the top is he got flat mounting plates and not S plates, so you lose all the material that would hold in screws, and given that this is 1/2" ply, there's not much there to begin with, and running bolts through the top really uglies the thing up something fierce. There's some extended joystick posts on the way, though, which will sort the problem out just fine.
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Jan 15, 2019 08:01
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JEEVES420 posted:Isn't the whole point of using cedar for outdoors is it's "naturally treated"? Yeah, but it depends on the climate. Someplace that's pretty dry, it will last decades. A humid place with lots of wet/dry cycles will rot it out in about 10 years. If you treat it with some sort of stain or clear coat, you can keep it around forever with proper maintenance. The most important trick that I have learned is that you never expose end-grain facing up (like posts/rails, etc) and if all possible when doing a deck, screw/fasten it from the bottom so that you don't have nails or screw heads letting water penetrate the wood.
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Jan 15, 2019 08:07
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Mr. Mambold posted:Christ, that's pretty. No wonder the English trimmed their fine staterooms and warship cabins with it when they ruled the world, it's the stablest lumber, the king of woods.
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Jan 15, 2019 14:07
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Blistex posted:Yeah, but it depends on the climate. Someplace that's pretty dry, it will last decades. A humid place with lots of wet/dry cycles will rot it out in about 10 years. If you treat it with some sort of stain or clear coat, you can keep it around forever with proper maintenance. The most important trick that I have learned is that you never expose end-grain facing up (like posts/rails, etc) and if all possible when doing a deck, screw/fasten it from the bottom so that you don't have nails or screw heads letting water penetrate the wood. I built a picnic table out of cedar (my first real woodworking project), and used a transparent finish on it to help with the water. I think it was https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-Pr..._-100112585-_-N Aside from all the other crap that I don't like about how I built the thing*, the finish went on really easily and has been holding up well. I'll throw another coat or two on this next summer and then I'd go every other year or so depending on how it's looking. *Pocket screws into soft cedar don't like to sit where you want them to sit exactly. And the angles on the bench supports don't match the table and it bothers the crap out of me.
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Jan 15, 2019 15:58
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Blistex posted:The most important trick that I have learned is that you never expose end-grain facing up (like posts/rails, etc) and if all possible when doing a deck, screw/fasten it from the bottom so that you don't have nails or screw heads letting water penetrate the wood. Is that just for cedar or for exterior wood in general? I helped my parents put in some posts for a retaining wall over the holiday break, and that's just 4x4 PT Douglas Fir with nothing above it. We did treat the cut ends with wood preservative though.
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Jan 15, 2019 16:51
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Does this thread ever discuss sustainable vs. non-sustainable wood? I ask partly due to the recent discussion of mahogany, but just more generally. It seems like most of my local lumberyards make no particular attempt or distinction, so you have to go out of your way to try and get information about the source of (especially exotic hardwood) lumber. I'm in California and I know for example we have programs around for recycling used wood, and there are sources like orchards that cycle through their trees every few years, orgs that harvest urban/suburban trees that have died or need to be felled for a project. I've also got an acquaintance through my wife who has property up in Navarro, near Mendocino; after a fire up there a few years ago, road crews went along felling thousands of burn-killed trees along roadways and after asking permission he was able to harvest a lot of useable hardwood and softwood. Mostly he uses it for firewood for firing a big wood-fired ceramics kiln, but some of what I saw was good enough for fine woodworking. I imagine it varies a lot depending on your local suppliers and resources, just wondering if most of you guys intentionally seek out sustainable wood, or if it's difficult or impossible to do that. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Jan 15, 2019 |
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Jan 15, 2019 22:03
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I just heard a Wood Talk show about this subject, and the host's tl;dr was that by being on the CITES list, it created something of a collector's fervor for the wood in question, which then spawned the suppliers to increase the planting of those trees, which would pull it out of endangered status. I haven't done nearly enough ww to have a personal response, but I thought this might interest you if you like podcasts.
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Jan 15, 2019 22:53
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I finally finished this goddamn shelf: What some of you might have done in an afternoon, took me four days. All 2x4 and 7/16 OSB with pocket holes for the shelf support frames (thanks all who recommended I just go ahead and get the Kreg jig, it's fantastic and easy to use) and wood glue at the pocket hole joints. It's really rough as far as measurements and construction go. I realized later I should have built it differently--I made the three frames/shelves and attached the OSB first, where it would have been easier on me to attach the 2x4s for the frames to the upright 2x4s and add the OSB after all else was done. So, I did it the hard way by laying down the already-made shelves on three 2x4s. The problem this created was screwing the shelves to the upright 2x4s, because some screws just would not go in and I stripped numerous screw heads and one Spax bit, even though I was using a 120v corded hammer drill. I would have had an easier time without the OSB there because I lost a lot of leverage pushing on screws. Some of them I had a ton of leverage and they still wouldn't go in, and I made sure many times that they weren't running into any other screws and I still don't know what the deal was there. I wonder if I had too much power in the drill and maybe should have used a battery-powered drill instead to avoid stripping screw heads and bits. Maybe Spax screws and bits just suck. It probably isn't that, though--it's more likely that I just suck. I should mention that for all screws besides the ones I used for the shelves and frames, I loving drilled 1/8 pilot holes (#10 screws) and still couldn't get the motherfuckers in all the way so wasted too many screws in the long run. Other than that it was easy I guess. I feel accomplished for finishing up my first project without loving anything up too badly, but also kind of stupid for only realizing after I was 90% finished that I could have made it a lot easier on myself. 
life is killing me fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Jan 15, 2019 |
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Jan 15, 2019 23:05
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Hey dude that was building his own table saw fence, I entirely forgot I had bookmarked this link. If you've got some metal cutting and shaping tools, you can do this. https://vsctools.com/diy-guide-rails/
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Jan 16, 2019 02:04
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Mr. Mambold posted:Hey dude that was building his own table saw fence, I entirely forgot I had bookmarked this link. If you've got some metal cutting and shaping tools, you can do this. Thanks! That was me but I already made one (previous post or two back). I'm just going for something to tide me over for a few months until I get a better fence system. The Delta T3 30" ones are well reviewed and only around $200.
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Jan 16, 2019 02:10
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Leperflesh posted:Does this thread ever discuss sustainable vs. non-sustainable wood? I ask partly due to the recent discussion of mahogany, but just more generally. It seems like most of my local lumberyards make no particular attempt or distinction, so you have to go out of your way to try and get information about the source of (especially exotic hardwood) lumber. You can get lumber that is certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC). In my experience much domestic hardwood is already FSC certified, and sometimes exotic stuff is too. I have no idea if it is really a meaningful designation-my forester uncle says it is a bunch of paperwork for the landowner to fill out that says he is in fact practicing all the best practices he is already practicing to grow quality hardwood lumber. I can't say I really think it means much when it comes to exotic tropical hardwoods from not very developed countries. We pretty well decimated our forests in the pursuit of economic growth 100 years ago, and now we grow much more timber than we harvest and are a huge exporter of lumber worldwide. Hopefully developing countries can learn from our mistakes and do things more sustainably, but I don't think we have much right to tell them they can't utilize the natural resources they have. I think in countries with poor rule of law/property rights where it is very unclear who owns what, and the tragedy of the commons plays out, or the local dictator du jour cuts everything he can to get as rich as he can while in power. Much of the big virgin mahogany has been cut out of South America, and as those countries have developed they've started regulating themselves to be a bit more sustainable. There's a good bit of south american mahogany that is plantation grown now. Lots of mahogany is coming out of Africa now, and it is a fairly good substitute for South American stuff appearance wise. I've had lumber cut from blown down trees a few times with mixed results-not great for oak, but pretty good and usable for cherry. There's a guy near me who only uses local lumber that he mills himself from stuff from tree people and blowdowns. There may well be a similar mill near you. I've done some work with reclaimed heart pine and oak beams, and but you into problems there too-they're full of nails or powder post beetles, but often very beautiful wood. Worse yet, people think it's reclaimed so it should be free, when in fact it takes a ton of extra labor vs. just buying new lumber. I think Ikea is the least sustainable furniture in the world-anything you have to replace every 3 years is unsustainable, even if it is made out of recycled particleboard. I do alot of antique reproductions (hence the large quantities of mahogany), and I think they should last 200 years like the originals. Wood is the most sustainable building material we have-we just have to quit cutting it down faster than it can regrow itself. I console myself that wherever the wood comes from, I think I am putting it to a very good use that should last a very long time.
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Jan 16, 2019 02:29
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life is killing me posted:I finally finished this goddamn shelf: I’m assuming by Spax you’re referring to the ones that are Star-drive? You have to work pretty hard to strip star drives. You might just be driving them too fast and not putting enough pressure on the bit. Maybe switch your drill into first gear next time?
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Jan 16, 2019 02:37
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