|
Could be clogged before the pump, especially if you have a broken food chopper/grinder and clogged filter.
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 00:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 12, 2024 21:23 |
|
|
BonoMan posted:We had a new roof installed (with ridge vents where there were none) and our garage foundation lifted. Is your attic insulated? Does any hot water piping or ducting run through the attic? You may have just made things a little worse, since the goal of attic venting is to ensure your attic is the same temperature as outside. If there's insufficient insulation in the attic, this would make your house colder in the winter. Some states/utilities have energy audit programs which might be a cheap/free way to get someone to come evaluate your house (and those people tend to have FLIR cameras too!)
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 00:38
|
|
|
Subjunctive posted:My dishwasher isn’t draining properly. Could be a dead drain pump, or it could be a clogged line. I’m seeing references to using a “rope brush” to clean out the drain line, but the only rope brushes I can find are either for cleaning ropes (of course) or guns (sure, I guess). Do they have another name? Should I use something else entirely? I had this problem before and it was a little stupid rubber flap inside the hose that prevents backflow being stuck. My 2 cents is just buy a new hose and replace it yourself. Cheap fast option, no special tools, and a good thing to do if you end up replacing the pump.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 00:52
|
|
|
MrYenko posted:Franklin Brass 662318 24-Inch Replacement Towel Bar Only https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NOQ4PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YuprCbWTNRHN1 Also available in chromed aluminum, though without the spring loaded end bits. Make sure to get a 3/4" bar because the smaller one will look silly. The spring loaded ends are available separately, but inexplicably only in packs of 10. And that is the story of how I ended up with 8 spring loaded towel rod ends in a drawer somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 02:12
|
|
|
BonoMan posted:We had a new roof installed (with ridge vents where there were none) and our garage foundation lifted. The ridge vents increased the outlet venting of your attic. From inspectapedia- "If the outlet venting is too large relative to the inlet venting for outdoor air, warm air escaping the attic or roof cavity will tend to draw conditioned air out of the occupied space of the building (through leaks into the attic or roof space), thereby increasing the building's heating or cooling costs or both." Is your attic air sealed? This should stop the leakage. You probably still need to have someone that knows their poo poo balance your attic ventilation if the roofing guys just threw ridge venting into the ventilation system because more vents=more better.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 02:15
|
|
|
devicenull posted:Is your attic insulated? Does any hot water piping or ducting run through the attic? lwoodio posted:The ridge vents increased the outlet venting of your attic. From inspectapedia- This sounds like it's probably exactly what's wrong. The attic *is* insulated, but the house almost certainly has a few leaks here and there from the notable "Yazoo Clay" foundation shiftiness around here. I'll see about getting someone in to look at it, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 02:24
|
|
|
Subjunctive posted:My dishwasher isn’t draining properly. Could be a dead drain pump, or it could be a clogged line. I’m seeing references to using a “rope brush” to clean out the drain line, but the only rope brushes I can find are either for cleaning ropes (of course) or guns (sure, I guess). Do they have another name? Should I use something else entirely? We had this issue a few months ago. We just got down on our hands and knees and took the drain apart and cleaned it out. Didn't find anything definitive other than a bit of stuff wrapped around the pump motor shaft. Didn't stop it from moving but just cleaning everything out and putting it back together solved it. It drains fine now.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 02:31
|
|
|
BonoMan posted:This sounds like it's probably exactly what's wrong. Your roofer probably installed the ridge venting without any consideration for the amount of intake air from your soffit vents—if you even have any. This is only exacerbating the natural stack effect in your home that draws cold air in at your basement and first floors to replace the air that leaks out into your attic and out the new ridge vent. This also pulls dank basement air into your living space. Ideally, your attic floor is air sealed from the living space, and all the air that’s drawn out the ridge vent is replaced by soffit vents at the rafter tails so that your attic space isn’t negatively pressurized. This helps to dry and cool your attic roof decking to prevent water and ice issues. There’s a ratio of total venting to attic area you need to follow (1:300 to 1:150 sq.ft), but your soffit venting should equal or exceed your ridge venting. You should probably block off any gable vents (short circuits with your ridge vents) and install continuous soffit vents. goku chewbacca fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Jan 21, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 02:53
|
|
|
goku chewbacca posted:Your roofer probably installed the ridge venting without any consideration for the amount of intake air from your soffit vents—if you even have any. This is only exacerbating the natural stack effect in your home that draws cold air in at your basement and first floors to replace the air that leaks out into your attic and out the new ridge vent. This also pulls dank basement air into your living space. No basements or crawl space, just a slab foundation, but I do have soffit vents. The attic floor is pretty well insulated. But our kitchen and living room have angled roofs that don't allow, or have rather, proper insulation.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 02:58
|
|
|
BonoMan posted:But our kitchen and living room have angled roofs that don't allow, or have rather, proper insulation. During the roofing job was the time to correct this - unless you really want to pull sheetrock.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 11:54
|
|
|
Subjunctive posted:My dishwasher isn’t draining properly. Could be a dead drain pump, or it could be a clogged line. I’m seeing references to using a “rope brush” to clean out the drain line, but the only rope brushes I can find are either for cleaning ropes (of course) or guns (sure, I guess). Do they have another name? Should I use something else entirely? Could be something in the pump. I've seen dishwashers where you can take out the filter at the bottom and open a small hatch revealing the pump-wheel (?). I've pulled broken glass and once a cherry-pit out of those. If you can't reveal the pump, you could try sticking your finger in the drain hole to see if you can move the wheel. Caution is advised, because maybe glass splinters.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 14:02
|
|
|
Motronic posted:During the roofing job was the time to correct this - unless you really want to pull sheetrock. Nah the part I'm talking is accessible via the attic. Gonna take pics of it later
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 14:07
|
|
|
angryrobots posted:The spring loaded ends are available separately, but inexplicably only in packs of 10. Home ownership is 10% pride, 10% maintenance, and 80% remembering where the extra bits, bobs, screws, washers, and doo-dads you picked up at Home Depot and didn’t return are.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 16:50
|
|
|
Facebook Aunt posted:Maybe a tube brush or a pipe brush would be what you're looking for? The ones I’m finding look too short and rigid, but I’ll keep looking because it’s turning up better stuff than “rope brush”! I have seen people propose attaching a garden hose and blasting it clean, but I would have to wait until April to do that here. FogHelmut posted:Could be clogged before the pump, especially if you have a broken food chopper/grinder and clogged filter. I will try to locate the grinder and check it, thanks. Wasabi the J posted:I had this problem before and it was a little stupid rubber flap inside the hose that prevents backflow being stuck. I will try replacing the hose tonight possibly, though I fear that it is a good but insufficient idea; see below. BonoMan posted:We had this issue a few months ago. We just got down on our hands and knees and took the drain apart and cleaned it out. Didn't find anything definitive other than a bit of stuff wrapped around the pump motor shaft. Didn't stop it from moving but just cleaning everything out and putting it back together solved it. It drains fine now. RabbitWizard posted:Could be something in the pump. I've seen dishwashers where you can take out the filter at the bottom and open a small hatch revealing the pump-wheel (?). I've pulled broken glass and once a cherry-pit out of those. If you can't reveal the pump, you could try sticking your finger in the drain hole to see if you can move the wheel. Caution is advised, because maybe glass splinters. I opened it up but there isn’t a clear path to the actual drain. I suspect another part comes off, but I haven’t yet found the right manual to tell me what/how. I did clean and poke at the pieces that are accessible, though... ...and now it makes a grinding/buzzing noise even when it’s not running a cycle, so I turned the breaker off. If I start a cycle I get a new error code which apparently means there is water where water shouldn’t be, and it of course continues to make the alarming noise.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 17:52
|
|
|
goku chewbacca posted:Your roofer probably installed the ridge venting without any consideration for the amount of intake air from your soffit vents—if you even have any. This is only exacerbating the natural stack effect in your home that draws cold air in at your basement and first floors to replace the air that leaks out into your attic and out the new ridge vent. This also pulls dank basement air into your living space. This is incredibly insightful. I’m dealing with an attic that’s very hot in the summer and damp in the winter I’d really like to fix. The problem is finding a pro in the area who can explain and not just sell me a bill of goods. I was looking at finishing the attic as a project and continuous soffit vents was the first part of the project. Looks like that couldn’t hurt either way.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 18:23
|
|
|
LingcodKilla posted:This is incredibly insightful. I’m dealing with an attic that’s very hot in the summer and damp in the winter I’d really like to fix. The problem is finding a pro in the area who can explain and not just sell me a bill of goods. See if there are energy efficiency programs in your area. They should be able to show you a bill of goods based on empirical testing they do to your house specifically. They should be up in all corners of your attic and looking closely at doors and windows. From there they should be able to show you in plain language and pictures the problem, the proposed solution, and how they will retest your house to prove it worked. (Ask for a before and after blower door test if you aren't offered one.)
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 18:34
|
|
|
Subjunctive posted:The ones I’m finding look too short and rigid, but I’ll keep looking because it’s turning up better stuff than “rope brush”! Something like this? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/155cm-Flexible-Cleaning-Tube-Ended-Double-Brush-Aquarium-Filter-Pump-Pipe-Hose/32853406197.html I have one for my aquarium hose and it works pretty well. They must sell them somewhere other than aliexpress.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 21:39
|
|
|
Subjunctive posted:I opened it up but there isn’t a clear path to the actual drain. I suspect another part comes off, but I haven’t yet found the right manual to tell me what/how. I did clean and poke at the pieces that are accessible, though... Yeah, sounds like something in one of the 2 pumps. Also, maybe, there was some water spilling/running out. You have kind of a pan below dishwasher with a swimmer attached to a sensor. That may trigger the "water where water shouldn't be-sensor". Either you figure out where the pumps are and can check them, otherwise (because developers of household appliances don't give a gently caress - and I'm working with German Miele/Bosch here) you are hosed.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 23:26
|
|
|
Subjunctive posted:My dishwasher isn’t draining properly. Could be a dead drain pump, or it could be a clogged line. I’m seeing references to using a “rope brush” to clean out the drain line, but the only rope brushes I can find are either for cleaning ropes (of course) or guns (sure, I guess). Do they have another name? Should I use something else entirely? Do they mean something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YE7JCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6TKrCbAJEBM15 On phone, so I am not going to look for a better one, but that is the kind of thing I think they mean.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2019 23:47
|
|
|
RabbitWizard posted:Either you figure out where the pumps are and can check them, otherwise (because developers of household appliances don't give a gently caress - and I'm working with German Miele/Bosch here) you are hosed. Yeah, the cabal that includes Thermador apparently is not very invested in my ability to resolve this myself. Khizan posted:Do they mean something like this? Oh hello! They even ship to Canada! Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2019 03:42
|
|
|
LingcodKilla posted:This is incredibly insightful. I’m dealing with an attic that’s very hot in the summer and damp in the winter I’d really like to fix. The problem is finding a pro in the area who can explain and not just sell me a bill of goods. If by finish you mean turn into a heated/air-conditioned living space, then everything about ventilation for a cool (outdoor temp) attic goes out the window. The best approach is to insulate straight to the air-sealed roof deck, and then install a 2nd roof deck on the outside with an air gap ventilation channel made using 2-bys laid on their side. If that’s too expensive, then spray foam straight to the roof deck with no ventilation space (unventilated roof). Do not make an unventilated roof using any air and vapor permeable insulation like fiberglass or cellulose. Least expensive is to leave a 1-2inch air gap between your roof deck and AIR-SEALED foam board. Air-sealing, vapor-barrier, and condensation point are all especially important on cathedral ceilings above finished spaces. If not, your ceiling can cause so much condensation of warm, moist interior air it can start raining inside your house.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2019 14:42
|
|
|
I just got done helping my girlfriend install some LVP. She did not have baseboards, just some trim from the old carpeting that we removed. I left a gap between the drywall and the edge of the flooring so now we need to put down some new trim/baseboards. Is there any reason for me not to put the baseboards flush with the floor? Is there any type of trim/boards that wouldn't be appropriate to use for non intuitive reasons?
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2019 19:23
|
|
|
Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I just got done helping my girlfriend install some LVP. She did not have baseboards, just some trim from the old carpeting that we removed. I left a gap between the drywall and the edge of the flooring so now we need to put down some new trim/baseboards. Is there any reason for me not to put the baseboards flush with the floor? Is there any type of trim/boards that wouldn't be appropriate to use for non intuitive reasons? It’s fine. You’re never going to get baseboard totally flush. Resist the urge to caulk the gaps between baseboard and floor. It’ll look like poo poo soon. If the gaps really bother you, builders use quarter-round over the baseboard, but I wouldn’t bother in my house.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2019 19:50
|
|
|
Just be careful not to in any way prevent the floating floor from expanding under the trim. Don't nail the trim/quarter round down from the top or anything that would get in the way or go into the planks. In other words, install the trim/QR correctly.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2019 19:54
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:It’s fine. You’re never going to get baseboard totally flush. Resist the urge to caulk the gaps between baseboard and floor. It’ll look like poo poo soon. If the gaps really bother you, builders use quarter-round over the baseboard, but I wouldn’t bother in my house. I feel like quarter round usually gets added to baseboard when someone puts in a new floor but doesn't want to remove the baseboard so they just use quarter round to cover the flooring gap. I much prefer a baseboard only look with a small gap (as you will get) at the bottom.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2019 20:05
|
|
|
tangy yet delightful posted:I feel like quarter round usually gets added to baseboard when someone puts in a new floor but doesn't want to remove the baseboard so they just use quarter round to cover the flooring gap. I much prefer a baseboard only look with a small gap (as you will get) at the bottom.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2019 20:36
|
|
|
Elem7 posted:
I'm probably too late on this, but don't use that caulk in your shower. That stuff is not meant for showers - read the third bullet point "Do not use in areas with constant water exposure" It will fall apart pretty quickly. I know it's confusing because of the wording "for use around sinks and showers" but it doesn't mean INSIDE sinks and showers. Use some actual silicone caulk, not "siliconized". There's a brand called Latasil you can look up that comes in a ton of colors and will work much better for that application. CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Jan 22, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2019 20:36
|
|
|
lwoodio posted:The ridge vents increased the outlet venting of your attic. From inspectapedia- Didn't even think of this. I've been thinking about getting a whole house fan, and I would need to increase my outlet ventilation for that to work properly. I was looking at adding a few dormer vents. I've only got a gable vent on the one end, and this style around the soffits/eaves whatever its called -  The attic is insulated with the original R-13 fiberglass, then I rolled out R-30 on top going in the opposite direction. I definitely did not pull up the original insulation to air seal anything.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2019 20:41
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:This may be regional, because in my area, shoe is standard, even in new construction. Carpeted rooms are the only exception. Yeah I was taught that the benefit of shoe was it could confirm to the natural dips in the floor.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2019 20:48
|
|
|
So then what's to prevent a spill from running under any gap and flowing under the flooring? I'd guess if its flush but not caulked or anything a small spill isn't going to necessarily do much if anything and a big spill is its own set of problems but prior to putting down this floor I'd never thought about even a little bit of water getting under and what to do about it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2019 20:49
|
|
|
Teabag Dome Scandal posted:So then what's to prevent a spill from running under any gap and flowing under the flooring? I'd guess if its flush but not caulked or anything a small spill isn't going to necessarily do much if anything and a big spill is its own set of problems but prior to putting down this floor I'd never thought about even a little bit of water getting under and what to do about it. What's under the floor? LVP shouldn't get damaged by water.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2019 20:54
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:What's under the floor? LVP shouldn't get damaged by water. Concrete slab (its a condo), but it's more of a curiosity/maybe not understanding how constructed homes have already thought about this sort of thing
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2019 23:43
|
|
|
Teabag Dome Scandal posted:Concrete slab (its a condo), but it's more of a curiosity/maybe not understanding how constructed homes have already thought about this sort of thing
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2019 04:35
|
|
|
goku chewbacca posted:If by finish you mean turn into a heated/air-conditioned living space, then everything about ventilation for a cool (outdoor temp) attic goes out the window. The best approach is to insulate straight to the air-sealed roof deck, and then install a 2nd roof deck on the outside with an air gap ventilation channel made using 2-bys laid on their side. If that’s too expensive, then spray foam straight to the roof deck with no ventilation space (unventilated roof). Do not make an unventilated roof using any air and vapor permeable insulation like fiberglass or cellulose. Least expensive is to leave a 1-2inch air gap between your roof deck and AIR-SEALED foam board. Air-sealing, vapor-barrier, and condensation point are all especially important on cathedral ceilings above finished spaces. If not, your ceiling can cause so much condensation of warm, moist interior air it can start raining inside your house. drat. Do you have a link to a YouTube video talking about this? I’m not sure I’d search using the right words to find a decent video.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2019 04:47
|
|
|
LingcodKilla posted:drat. Do you have a link to a YouTube video talking about this? I’m not sure I’d search using the right words to find a decent video. Search for “ventilated” and “unventilated cathedral ceiling” and how to insulate knee walls like in a Cape Cod house (hint: don’t insulate the knee wall, insulate the roof/rafters and bring the space behind the knee wall into the conditioned space). Unless you’re in a really mild climate, it’s almost impossible to adequately insulate to just the depth of your rafters unless you’re using spray foam. So unless you feel like replacing your existing roof deck with external insulation or a second ventilated deck, you’ll need to fur out your rafters for more insulation space or use foam board across the rafters (this is the better way, stops thermal bridging through rafter and acts as your vapor barrier).
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2019 20:07
|
|
|
Posting this in this thread too. Would it be worth getting those garage door insulation kits if my garage doesn't have insulation in the walls? The walls are rocked, but without insulation.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2019 21:01
|
|
|
Teabag Dome Scandal posted:Concrete slab (its a condo), but it's more of a curiosity/maybe not understanding how constructed homes have already thought about this sort of thing Did you put a vapor barrier between the floor and the concrete? I did laminate (definitely not waterproof) in my condo a few years ago, and it required I put plastic sheeting between it and the slab. It's been mopped plenty of times, and I never had an issue. I never even considered large spills going through the baseboards. I would think without a vapor barrier, the spill would just soak into the slab, and with vinyl there should be no worry about the floor getting ruined either way. AFewBricksShy posted:Posting this in this thread too. Yes, a thin metal garage door is going to have more thermal conductivity than exterior siding, sheathing, an air gap, and sheetrock. I'd also shore up any weather stripping around the door. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Jan 23, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2019 21:05
|
|
|
On insulation, what's the most cost effective loft insulation I can buy in the UK? I want to insulate my garage which is currently just plasterboard ceiling, no insulation whatsoever.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2019 15:32
|
|
|
Subjunctive posted:Yeah, the cabal that includes Thermador apparently is not very invested in my ability to resolve this myself. Let me know if that works, please. Edit: I googled a random Termador dishwasher. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMJoBoELwu4&t=72s Below the thingy that is taken out at 1:17 is the pump sump, from there may/should go a channel as thick as your pinkie to the the pump. This is where you may be able to access the pump wheel. Put a screwdriver in there and move it left to right a a few times. Try starting the machine again. RabbitWizard fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Jan 24, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2019 19:32
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 12, 2024 21:23 |
|
|
Anything better than great stuff foam to seal a window frame with? I am having a porch built, and the old window trim is off and I can see the back of the drywall from outside. I was gonna foam it with the low expansion foam, but wanted to make sure that was the smart move.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2019 21:53
|
|
