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My ‘70 Cutlass has one of those. I used it once because I had to for a flat tire. After that, a cheap trolley jack stayed in the trunk. Now I have a king sized scissor jack I purloined from a Cash 4 Cars Suburban. Thankfully the Crown Vic came with a reasonable scissor jack.
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Jan 21, 2019 22:53
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Didn't one of those nearly kill a goon?
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Jan 22, 2019 04:22
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Rhyno posted:Didn't one of those nearly kill a goon? If what you're thinking of is what I'm thinking of, that was an actual high lift jack, not one of those factory bumper jacks. It didn't actually fail, it tipped over.
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Jan 22, 2019 06:41
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GF's car. Threw in the new stereo in record time - less than 15 minutes. Not bad for something I've never worked on outside of a brake job! Even got the radio presents set the same, and moved the CD that was in the old head unit to the new one (instead of forgetting a CD like I always do).  ..... I forgot to hook up/run the Bluetooth microphone.  The whole reason I got her a new stereo for her birthday was for bluetooth (Austin has pretty strict laws regarding cell phones and vehicles) (also so we can actually have streaming music when we go on road trips...). So I get to re-do it tomorrow. At least everything just snaps together (aside from the HU - 4x 10mm bolts there).I need to send that drat clock off to be fixed too. Or figure out how to fix it myself. Corolla/Matrix clocks are famous for going dim, through no fault of the actual VFD. Some days it's fine, some days it's at half brightness (like today), some days totally blank, sometimes it'll just sorta fade in and out through the day. big crush on Chad OMG posted:Honestly these days I recommend that folks use an on demand service and pay the one time fee unless they have some unreliable car. Most people don’t use roadside for years so paying a subscription based model is going the way of the dodo. Urgently, Honk, etc. are all companies that offer on demand service and I’ve found the folks who work through those services tend to not be the grizzled, stereotypical tow truck driver. They also offer modern technology - you can report online vs the phone(instant gps coordinates), see the drivers ETA real time on a map, hell you can even choose the tow truck company in a lot of cases. For some people, I'd agree - the subscription based model is outdated. Me? I still carry AAA Plus (100 miles of towing). Why? I drive a lot (~30k/year), and also take a lot of road trips between Austin and Dallas (~200 miles). My car isn't exactly the definition of reliability, and it's only $12/mo for both of us. And I usually wind up using at least 2 service calls a year to help friends out (generally a tow) - it pays for itself with one use. I just checked Urgent.ly for a tow of 101 miles (worst case scenario where I wind up paying something for a tow with AAA - I would pay for 1 mile, and I happened to know of an address 101 miles away from home). Urgent.ly's price for that is $609. I don't quite live paycheck to paycheck, but that would put a serious hurt on my wallet. The $12/month isn't something I notice. I'd not only notice $609, but I'd be eating ramen and skipping a couple of student loan payments. For someone who doesn't drive too far from home, or they don't mind the possible sting of a $500 tow, then the subscription model would make perfect sense. I drive 100ish miles a day on average. I can change my own tire, but I can't fork out the cash for an expensive tow. I should clarify that I have AAA for myself only for the towing; for GF, it's more because she panics if the car doesn't do what she expects. The extra $3/month to have her on it gives her a lot of peace of mind (and prevents my phone from exploding when she gets a flat). Darchangel posted:After that, a cheap trolley jack stayed in the trunk. I've been keeping a trolley jack in the trunk for ages. I need to figure out a way to strap it down though.  I loving hate scissor jacks. I drive enough that statistically, I'm far more prone to a flat tire than the typical driver (and on average I wind up with a couple of flat tires a year; my worst recent year saw 8 or 9 flats), and also wind up helping neighbors when I see one struggling with a scissor jack. Plus, it's always there for the random brake job. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Jan 23, 2019 |
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Jan 23, 2019 07:22
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That reminds me I need to figure out why my Bluetooth calling suddenly sounds like rear end apparently. Just installed the mic 2 months ago when I did the heater core, it was fine then but the other day I used it and no one could hear me clearly in either full hands free or speaker phone; had to disconnect bluetooth and go to handset mode to be heard. E: I am finally getting a new phone delivered on Friday so I'll test it with that, but could it just be an issue with the head unit?
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Jan 23, 2019 16:26
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If it sounded like rear end on speaker phone, then yeah possibly the phone. There's usually a mic gain adjustment, sometimes a noise cancellation adjustment, on the HU. Tried restarting the phone already?
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Jan 23, 2019 22:11
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Installed the freshly painted rollbar and soft top today. 
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Jan 24, 2019 01:08
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STR posted:
You just have to resolder some joints. Right up yer alley.
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Jan 24, 2019 02:43
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Mustache Ride posted:Installed the freshly painted rollbar and soft top today. More scout content please.
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Jan 24, 2019 04:37
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angryrobots posted:You just have to resolder some joints. Right up yer alley. Is that it? The ebay services offering to fix it made it sound like it also needs a re-cap and possibly other components, though that's not the end of the world (my soldering skills aren't great, but I can handle that). If that's all, then gently caress it, I'll knock it out while she's sleeping. I figured it was more than solder joints since smacking it doesn't help. I disconnected it for about 15 minutes today while I had the stereo back out to hook up the mic, and it was totally blank once I hooked it back up - it sort of faded on after about 5 minutes, but just barely (couldn't read it, I could barely see a few segments in the middle). Keeps time just fine in any event. sorta related, when the gently caress is Toyota going to randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Jan 24, 2019 |
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Jan 24, 2019 07:06
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I've never seen any Toyota clock fade or fail even after 500,000+ KMs in old Hiaces. Anyway the new design Camry and Corolla no longer have separate clocks.
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Jan 24, 2019 07:26
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Fender Anarchist posted:That reminds me I need to figure out why my Bluetooth calling suddenly sounds like rear end apparently. Just installed the mic 2 months ago when I did the heater core, it was fine then but the other day I used it and no one could hear me clearly in either full hands free or speaker phone; had to disconnect bluetooth and go to handset mode to be heard. For the record, the state hosed over those laws.
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Jan 24, 2019 13:00
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EIDE Van Hagar posted:For the record, the state hosed over those laws. idgaf about the law, I just like the convenience of not tying up a hand or being unable to clear blind spots.
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Jan 24, 2019 14:26
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dissss posted:I've never seen any Toyota clock fade or fail even after 500,000+ KMs in old Hiaces. The one in our Camry is intermittent and will vary in brightness from almost off to full brightness over time, Mine's a 4th gen with 340k miles (~550km). I've just been too lazy to fix it. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Jan 24, 2019 |
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Jan 24, 2019 22:54
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So I finally got all the parts to change one of the three engine/gearbox mounts in my car. I posted a video in the stupid questions thread showing a mount that basically flopped around when being moved. I went to one of thewell knowns specialist online stores and found that they didn't offer the same part that was on my car anymore and that (which I learned through emailing them) that Alfa had recently changed the part. Ok, I'm thinking great! I'm assured it'll fit and it's a part from a stronger engine, which in theory should mean better durability and performance. Well.... upon inspection I found that I need 130mm bolts instead of 65mm ones. Ok no problem. I order some bolts from loving France (because of course I get no reply when asking the same store that sold me the mount about getting the correct size bolts...) Ok. Ok. Still good. ........and the the mount didn't fit without fouling on the A/C line running behind it. I refused to fit the old one and spend time and money on returning the item, so I filed the fouling bit down until it fit. Fortunatly it was only bits that have minimal impact on the structural integrity of the mount. But it meant taking at least one more our of trial and error. Not to mention risking Ł80 by not being able to return the part. Oh and I held up the engine with a jack from below before taking the old mount off. Maybe raised it 1cm max. I kept wondering why the new one was being so hard to fit on the engine. Turns out I had to raise the engine 5-8cm to get it to the correct (default) position. I guess the old mount was way more hosed than it appeared. Hopefully nothing has been damaged from all the time the engine and transmission has spent slanted. At least now everything is fitted and all is well. Can't wait to test drive it tomorrow. I also put on an original air fillter because I don't trust the PO and his lovely K&N filter. I opened the box up and wasn't at all surprised to see a ton of oil residue from him using way too much oil on the filter. Good times!
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Jan 24, 2019 22:56
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Sub-zero temps followed by torrential downpours here sort of have been hampering my RX7 air leak diagnosis but I put the new fuel pressure gauge in to confirm that I was getting appropriate pressure. The Holley setup calls for 6psi and I’m getting just shy of 6.5 so I’m calling that good.
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Jan 24, 2019 23:25
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Turned my W124 coupe into some kind of bizarre offroader. The (30 year old, factory original) front springs were sagging from age, so I replaced them with direct OEM replacements which have lifted the thing enormously high, despite advice online suggesting otherwise. I even used the minimum height spring shims to drop it by a centimetre. What I was expecting:  What I got:   I know that they will settle a bit over time, but no way are they going to settle enough..
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Jan 25, 2019 00:39
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You’d be surprised. Even jacking one corner makes a car look hilariously lifted.
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Jan 25, 2019 01:50
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Grakkus posted:
Did you tighten the bushing bolts with the corner in the air?
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Jan 25, 2019 02:26
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Grakkus posted:Turned my W124 coupe into some kind of bizarre offroader. The (30 year old, factory original) front springs were sagging from age, so I replaced them with direct OEM replacements which have lifted the thing enormously high, despite advice online suggesting otherwise. I even used the minimum height spring shims to drop it by a centimetre. Looks fine to me, now throw some mudders on there. Also, lol, that's a bigger gap than my truck.
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Jan 25, 2019 02:55
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Update on the RX7: My father-in-law came over and since he’s an old school muscle car guy he figured out the issue right away. The screw for the fast idle cam was turned all the way in. We turned it back and got the car to idle at 1500 on the fast idle cam and 750 normally. The instruction sheet for the carb from RB didn’t list the fast idle screw at all, as it only listed the idle screw as an adjustment point. Sometimes it’s good to take a step back and enlist the help of people who know more than I do and my carb knowledge is FAR behind my FI knowledge. Five years ago I would have killed myself with stress trying to figure it out but taking a week off was definitely the right move.
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Jan 27, 2019 21:24
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Today I discovered that tempered glass does not just shrug off welding slag as I had assumed based on nothing whatsoever: I had to weld near glass because the door hinge bolts stripped, but at least I got them out:  The threads weren't even rusted in place. Screw you inverted hex!  Oh the door still isn't coming off. Is there something on top?  Wait a minute, the spacing on those fasteners . . . could it be . . .  Hallelujah! One of them is completely inaccessible. I furrow my brows and shift my pea brain into high gear. The engine lugs and whines before reluctantly pooping out a tiny nugget of insight: Does the door come off from the bottom?  Jesus, yes it does. The setup is some kind of threaded square head rod screwed into a welded nut and up into the bottom of the door, with a nylock jamnut holding it in place, covered in centuries of rust and maybe manure. I had assumed the door just had a rod stuck on it that was jammed into a hole in the floor. I called it a day after spraying the nut down with penetrating fluid and extreme indignation. The reason I need that door off? It's in the way of 4-5 rivets I need to put in to put a piece of the door frame skin back on. Why did I take the skin off? It sits under a riveted trim piece that goes all the way up to the roof and the space behind it will only ever be accessible for adding insulation now, when I have the trim piece off. Why is that trim piece off? The roof is leaking so I have to re-do the sealing. So in order to fix a leak in the roof I have to take one of the side doors off 
Xy Hapu fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Jan 28, 2019 |
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Jan 28, 2019 02:11
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Update on the RX7: Isn't fast idle only engaged when the choke is on? I admit I'm mostly ignorant because 2/3 of my carbs don't have a fast idle at all, and the other one is stock so I never have to mess with it.
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Jan 28, 2019 02:19
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Raluek posted:Isn't fast idle only engaged when the choke is on? I admit I'm mostly ignorant because 2/3 of my carbs don't have a fast idle at all, and the other one is stock so I never have to mess with it. Yeah but the choke is automatic so when it was cold it would kick the idle up to like 4K rpm on a stone cold motor. It should fast idle at like 1500 then drop to 750 when the choke opens.
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Jan 28, 2019 02:45
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Yeah but the choke is automatic so when it was cold it would kick the idle up to like 4K rpm on a stone cold motor. It should fast idle at like 1500 then drop to 750 when the choke opens. Oh. I don't like auto chokes, so I've never used one. Shows what I know! 
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Jan 28, 2019 02:56
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Headlight went out recently. Diagnosed the issue: Now waiting on solution: non sealed Hella replacements from Amazon. 
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Jan 28, 2019 03:19
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Xy Hapu posted:Today I discovered that tempered glass does not just shrug off welding slag as I had assumed based on nothing whatsoever: This reminds me of one of my favorite books as a kid, which was published after a Sesame Street skit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_2Ky_nU2ys
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Jan 28, 2019 03:53
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Raluek posted:Oh. I don't like auto chokes, so I've never used one. Shows what I know! I like auto chokes as long as they're the electric kind. The heat riser ones are universally terrible.
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Jan 28, 2019 05:06
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 Put all the bits on the big Pajero in anticipation of selling it to a couple brothers that are flying in from Michigan to drive it back home.  Sold the white 2-door Pajero to a guy that's going to roadtrip it up the east coast to Connecticut (!), he seems extremely excited.  Bought another LandCruiser (!!!)
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Jan 28, 2019 05:43
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I ordered a BDS 4” coilover lift, 18” wheels, and 35x12.50s for my 2017 F-150, and I hope I do not regret it. Like I both worry about “I shoulda just left it stock” and also “I shoulda gone 6””
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Jan 29, 2019 19:09
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I drove it around today. I have been recovering from hernia surgery and this is the first time I've really driven it in the last two weeks, went to the doctor for my post-op appt. then drove around for a couple of hours taking logs. I have the rest of the week off of work so I hope to get more datalogging in for my tuner, we are up to 20 lbs of boost and the 4th revision of the tune. The MagnaFlow catback is loud and a bit flashy, I enjoy both the sound and looks but the car is basically a rolling ticket waiting to happen at this point. Thanks, California! Anyway, the Si coupe is the best looking 10th gen Civic, thanks for reading.
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Jan 29, 2019 23:59
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I finished re-carpeting my sub box and installed that, rewired the rear speakers and replaced the fronts and fitted tweeters. Fitted some car mats from a later model Levin that I got for free and cleaned up. Finally have 90% of the interior back together after putting a screw through the window wiring and having to fix that and replace the well hidden fusible link.
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Jan 30, 2019 00:28
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2 days, really. Yesterday: Drove to Dallas and back, staying in Dallas 30 minutes. Had to grab some things from a friend. Mileage was absolutely lovely for this car (27 mpg for a car rated low to mid 30s highway), but it's also leaving puddles of gas on the ground now (  plastic lines from the pump to the filter that love to crack, thanks GM ). Need to get it in the shop, GM's supposed to cover it.Today: finally got around to hooking my sub and amp back up. Super lovely install kit that's honestly overkill (even though it uses CCA) for my amp, I need to order a smaller fuse though (that fuse could handle the loving starter for my car...). Also used this guy, which made connecting the positive cable a shitload easier vs the old car (where I turned a ring terminal into a spade terminal and jammed it under the cable). Just need to wrap it in tape or something, I'm a little nervous about the exposed metal right next to the spare tire and 4 way wrench. My old car was the same year/make/model, just a different trim. On the old car, since I originally amped it with the factory head unit, I just pulled the amp turn on to the back seat power outlet (switched), and also ran the RCAs down the tunnel. On this one, I ran them down the side. I really wish I'd done them down the tunnel on this one; it would have saved a lot of swearing trying to zip tie the wires up under the dash from the kick panel. I was also reminded of how cheap Pioneer is with their harnesses - this was a fairly high end single DIN head unit several years ago. The remote turn on lead - along with every other wire in the harness it came with - is 20-22 ga. I haven't touched the amp gain since removing the sub from the old car months ago (I had the same head unit in the old car too, with the same settings), the heavier wire seems to have made a decent difference in how hard it hits before distorting. Old car had 8 gauge copper.
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Jan 31, 2019 09:45
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Nothing but think bad thoughts about it, because it decided to dump nearly all of its transmission fluid on the way back home. It's just sitting in the driveway, waiting for me to figure out what the hell happened, because  and cold weather. Leak seems to originate somewhere near the radiator where the transmission line runs into the cooler portion. So I'm thinking it's a busted line or a busted radiator.
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Jan 31, 2019 16:15
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STR posted:2 days, really. Cable size is your limiting factor. Depending on the length you can get excessive voltage drop, and the gauge basically limits your current. Larger cable leads to more efficiency. From my alternator to the battery in my 300C, I have 3 runs of 0 cable. According to the charts, I should have no voltage drop. Most head units have 22-24 gauge wires. They're basically control voltage. Remote/att is just a voltage signal, the things connected to them aren't pulling a load.
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Jan 31, 2019 16:36
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Yeah, but 22 ga. is a pain to work with. Too thin. At least throw 18 ga. on there.
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Jan 31, 2019 22:52
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yeah i tend to use 18 ga with nice soldered and heatshrunk things unless i feel lazy and get a crutchfield pre done up one because
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Jan 31, 2019 22:57
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EvilBeard posted:Most head units have 22-24 gauge wires. They're basically control voltage. Remote/att is just a voltage signal, the things connected to them aren't pulling a load. My head unit is pushing my main speakers; only the sub is on a separate amp. I really don't see how 22-24 can carry 22 RMS/50 peak. The factory wiring is actually thicker, FFS. GF's low end Kenwood had much more substantial wire when I hooked it up. Power was 14 or 16, everything else was 18ish.
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Feb 2, 2019 08:19
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STR posted:My head unit is pushing my main speakers; only the sub is on a separate amp. I really don't see how 22-24 can carry 22 RMS/50 peak. The factory wiring is actually thicker, FFS. 24 awg wire is rated at 3.5A, and 50W into a 4 ohm driver would result in a load of 3.53A. You'll probably never see 50W in reality. My guess is the engineers that designed the head unit did the math. Sure, you feel better about having beefier wire, but will handle the load.
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Feb 2, 2019 08:32
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| # ? May 27, 2024 00:37 |
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Oh I know I won't see the full 50W, but when the penny pinching GM engineers put in beefier wire (both behind the dash and inside the doors) on an economy car vs what Pioneer includes in their harness on what was then almost the top of the line single DIN head unit.... 
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Feb 2, 2019 08:39
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