|
richyp posted:It's a good colour. I got my smartphone settings sorted out and got a better picture, so you can see Baharroth Blue and the other 7 of the edge colours in their true pastel glory. I really want to paint up a Pastel model now. Not the beefcake though, I don't want to copy yours.
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2019 02:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 01:28 |
|
|
richyp posted:It's a good colour. I got my smartphone settings sorted out and got a better picture, so you can see Baharroth Blue and the other 7 of the edge colours in their true pastel glory. That’s .... loving radical. Yeah, that’s the proper adjective.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2019 05:02
|
|
|
X-post, just finished reworking my Primaris Uriel Ventris to fix a bunch of stuff that was bugging me about him. I re-based him and re-painted the power sword to keep him more consistent with the rest of the army, gave him a banner that didn't defy physics by swooshing in the opposite direction to his cape, and gave him a suitable bare head instead of the kinda dull helmet. I think he came out much better. Before:  After:  With best bud Pasanius:  Primarch, Chapter Master and 4th Co. Captain: 
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2019 16:27
|
|
|
 Another five boyz done! That makes a total of... ten. Only 110 to go! I'm pretty happy with them, though. I finished them much faster than the first five, and I think they turned out better (not just because I actually based them). Hopefully I gain even more speed as I go along. I plan on working on my warboss and painboy next before hitting some more boyz. If I can get 1000 points by my birthday in late July, I'll probably make a Forge World order. Not sure exactly what I'll get, but I'm definitely going to treat myself.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2019 18:52
|
|
|
Figured I owed you guys pictures after pestering you with questions. Also that's a lie, I just want to show these to people. First thing I ever painted, Space Marine at GW's PAX Unplugged booth:     The color selection at the booth was limited and they didn't have any red or white, so I made do with his helmet (I decided he is somehow a fancy lad and that's why he got gold) and the chapter symbol, and they had nothing remotely paper-y so I improvised like hell on the oath paper with black over flesh and I think it came out pretty okay. That picture of his back isn't great and it's hard to tell, but I did detail work on all of his jetpack exhausts that I'm proud of (I painted them black) and there's a weird splotch on his back left shoulder where I think the ink wash was pooled up and I didn't notice. I'm very proud of picking out the winged skull on his gun in gold like that, it wasn't easy! Second thing I ever painted, first thing at home, a Bone Monster:     He's over-washed, I can tell. I got the Games Workshop stuff, and apparently just putting it on my brush straight from the pot is not the right thing to do because it clearly needed to be watered down. Washing him was a pain in general because he's so pointy and bumpy everywhere, the ink kept clumping up. So, yeah, over-washed (it doesn't come across perfectly but his ribcage is just shiny black instead of outlining the ribs), but I still think he looks pretty cool? What did I do wrong with the stupid wash, though, just failure to water it down? And why do they come in those stupid pots instead of a dropper bottle if I've got to take some out and mix it before using? I am working on a Human Cleric now, who is way more complicated than anything else I've done before because he wears pants, greaves over the pants, a chainmail shirt, a cloak, a scarf, and then has flesh on his hands and face, then hair, then also has a mace, and they all have to be different colors, and then there's details because he's wearing a belt with pouches attached and a medallion. I have the base stuff done except for the scarf, face, hair, hands, and mace, and I think he looks great so far. No pictures yet.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2019 20:12
|
|
|
Don't be so hard on yourself, dude, those are fine first models! A lot of getting better is learning about how your different paints and tools behave. Darker washes will result in a dirty look when applied over a light color. Acrylic washes also tend to pool, which can result in tide marks. GW washes by design clump together more than other brands because their style is for you to glob them onto everything, both acting as a filter and as a shade for your recesses. If you want to use a wash as a filter (IE: to tint/change the color underneath) then you need to make sure it's thin and leaves no tide marks. Acylics aren't great at that, but you can still get good results by mixing in some gloss varnish into them, applying over a gloss undercoat, or just being super careful. If you want to use washes to shade your recesses, you need to target the areas you want darker and only apply the wash onto that area. Obviously its way easier to just wash your entire model and be done with it. Nothing wrong with that either! This is art at the end of the day, so there is no wrong way to approach anything. Just different end results. Keep at it, keep trying things, and find something you enjoy doing that also makes you feel good about it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2019 22:23
|
|
|
I can report that VMC RLM23 is NOT the same af VMA RLM23. Not at all. Not by a long shot.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2019 22:55
|
|
|
If I want to make an oil wash that's closest in color to seraphim sepia, what color should I pick up? Actual sepia seems much darker
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2019 23:31
|
|
|
Burnt umber If its too dark mix it with ochre
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2019 23:44
|
|
|
 Chipping is so drat fun to play with. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2019 03:10
|
|
|
CapnAndy posted:He's over-washed, I can tell. I got the Games Workshop stuff, and apparently just putting it on my brush straight from the pot is not the right thing to do because it clearly needed to be watered down. Washing him was a pain in general because he's so pointy and bumpy everywhere, the ink kept clumping up. So, yeah, over-washed (it doesn't come across perfectly but his ribcage is just shiny black instead of outlining the ribs), but I still think he looks pretty cool? What did I do wrong with the stupid wash, though, just failure to water it down? And why do they come in those stupid pots instead of a dropper bottle if I've got to take some out and mix it before using? I don't think the wash is the problem. That's a D&D mini, right? I paint them too and one of the problems with them is that they're more detailed than the material and sprayed on primer can really handle. Washes help bring out detail and that's great if you have a GW figure or some other hard plastic dude with high quality control. Throw sepia wash on a good white painted skeleton and you'll have a tabletop ready figure. Do it on a D&D mini with lumps and bumps and overly detailed collections of stuff on its hip and you end up highlighting those imperfections instead and your washes will pool in areas a better sculptor/manufacturer would never have let exist. I still paint reaper bones and D&D minis but I've learned I can't let washes carry me the way I could on a better figure. I apply very small amounts of wash to specific areas at times (e.g. dulling metalics) but for the most part I do my own shades and highlights because it's the only way to guide the eye away from the imperfections. I find the same thing is true with dry brushing. The cheaper the mini, the less you can get away with the easy techniques.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2019 06:09
|
|
|
Any tips for moving on to new units after finishing a model you're super unhappy with? I was excited to work through the Blackstone Fortress box, but I'm not happy with how my Asuryani Ranger came out. I'm going to put the rest of Blackstone Fortress on the backburner a bit, and I think try to churn through my Chainrasp Horde and Skitarii. Troops seem like a good place to focus on improving some painting skills. I want to get better at thinning my paints, avoiding whites (the ones I have go on too thick and spotchy, and I have no idea what to wash them with, nuln oil was a very bad idea), and slowly figure out how to do faces and eyes. I had been so proud of my Spirit Hosts and Glaivewraith Stalkers, so I had felt I was ready to tackle a fancy model.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2019 07:05
|
|
|
Everything that's not black or silver was done tonight. Good enough for tomorrow's Kill Team tournament.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2019 07:39
|
|
|
I stumbled onto a form of chipping when I forgot to seal a model I’d airbrushed with glazes over chrome, then applied microsol for some decals. Brushed the top layer right off.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2019 14:46
|
|
|
I put a thick layer of a Tamiya Smoke over a rock golem and I think it went on too thick. It just look kinda...wet in places Is there any way to make something less glossy without filling in between all the rocky texture bits individually with a matte to make the parts I like pop?
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2019 21:29
|
|
|
DJ Dizzy posted:I can report that VMC RLM23 is NOT the same af VMA RLM23. Not at all. Not by a long shot. That sucks, I've had decent luck with spraying VMC colors by diluting them with Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver if that helps, then you don't have to worry about different shades being sprayed vs. brushed.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2019 22:09
|
|
|
VMA RLM23 is the color im after, so no biggie using the airbrush. But correcting mistakes is a pain.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2019 00:42
|
|
|
Badablack posted:I stumbled onto a form of chipping when I forgot to seal a model I’d airbrushed with glazes over chrome, then applied microsol for some decals. Brushed the top layer right off. this is neat and looks pretty great
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2019 01:58
|
|
|
Ohthehugemanatee posted:I don't think the wash is the problem. That's a D&D mini, right? I paint them too and one of the problems with them is that they're more detailed than the material and sprayed on primer can really handle. Washes help bring out detail and that's great if you have a GW figure or some other hard plastic dude with high quality control. Throw sepia wash on a good white painted skeleton and you'll have a tabletop ready figure. Do it on a D&D mini with lumps and bumps and overly detailed collections of stuff on its hip and you end up highlighting those imperfections instead and your washes will pool in areas a better sculptor/manufacturer would never have let exist.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2019 05:49
|
|
|
Nolzur/Pathfinder minis are basically the same thing with different branding, yeah.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2019 06:10
|
|
|
                 I think, in retrospect, the most impressive thing about these is that I did them all with extremely mediocre brushes.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2019 11:51
|
|
|
Thanqol posted:
That hull paint job is amazing!
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2019 13:01
|
|
|
Big thumbs up for pretty space elves!
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2019 20:37
|
|
|
Just used Lamenter’s Yellow on a primed-white, flash gitz airbrush, seraphim sepia washed snap fit marine and I’m liking the results. I’ll post after I decide whether or not to add another glaze coat
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2019 01:33
|
|
|
Practicing faces while other stuff dries. Always been intimidated by faces, but I'm really happy with what came out. This is the best of the 9 I did, but all came out to my satisfaction Lamenters Yellow over the other yellows came out a little darker than I was hoping, gonna try white and two coats of straight glaze and see how it looks. Really glad to have like 70 push-fit marines 
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2019 04:20
|
|
|
Thanqol posted:Awesome stuff... I know you answered this like a year ago, but how did you go about doing the opal soulstones?
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2019 04:47
|
|
|
If you want a magic vibrant yellow color use a transparent yellow or orange wash on your yellow paint
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2019 05:53
|
|
|
Alokgen posted:I know you answered this like a year ago, but how did you go about doing the opal soulstones? All the GW edge paints. I basecoated them in gauss blaster green and then randomly patterned blue horror, fulgrim pink, deschera lilac, dorn yellow, etc. I wet blended them a little but not that much. They're all such similar pastel shades that they play incredibly nicely together. It's very easy to do, just muck around with it, random splodgy organic-esque patterns are what you want so don't think too hard.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2019 07:01
|
|
|
Cross-postin’, I’m really digging the Typhus Corrosion/Ryza Rust combo for my rusty Necrons.   
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2019 17:54
|
|
|
How do you do it? Paint on the Typhus, let it dry and then drybrush the rust?
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2019 22:06
|
|
|
MasterSlowPoke posted:How do you do it? Paint on the Typhus, let it dry and then drybrush the rust? Exactly, I splatter the Typhus where I want and then drybrush the Ryza as heavy/light as needed.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2019 22:09
|
|
|
Does anybody know of a good model piece / bit that is basically a circular shield, but some type of elvish / demonish / techno punk ? Something that would look appropriate with dark eldar Haemonculus covens?
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2019 00:34
|
|
|
JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:Does anybody know of a good model piece / bit that is basically a circular shield, but some type of elvish / demonish / techno punk ? Ruin's buckler ?
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2019 00:49
|
|
|
Inspector_666 posted:Is there a good, cheap alternative to the GW terrain stuff like Astrogranite? Is it just "PVA some sand, paint it gray"? You can use a mix of sand, bird cage liner or maybe cat litter from the pet store. I've had this mix of sand / bird stuff since I was 16 (added to over the years):     http://imgur.com/gallery/YrwZw EDIT: For urban, try basecoating brown and then highlighting grey. You can add a bluish gray such as Dark Reaper or Thunderhawk Blue inbetween if you want to add more color.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2019 01:15
|
|
|
First GW Mini I've painted in about 10 years...
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2019 15:41
|
|
|
Xaerael posted:First GW Mini I've painted in about 10 years... Looking pretty drat great! 
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2019 15:42
|
|
|
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/culturehustle/the-blackest-black-paint-in-the-world-black-30 I wonder if this would be useful for anything mini-related.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2019 17:32
|
|
|
I was about to say "gently caress paying $33 for 1 bottle" but then I looked up how big GW pots are. 12ml So this is more than 10x the size for less than 10x the price of a GW pot. Could definitely be used in some neat "strategic" ways, but I wouldn't full on substitute regular black with it 
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2019 17:37
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:I was about to say "gently caress paying $33 for 1 bottle" but then I looked up how big GW pots are. 12ml So this is more than 10x the size for less than 10x the price of a GW pot. That could be super cool as the cloaked portion of a Stealth Suit in those mid-decloaking paint jobs. Also I want to redo my Stygies force with that as the base coat
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2019 17:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 01:28 |
|
|
Enola Gay-For-Pay posted:https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/culturehustle/the-blackest-black-paint-in-the-world-black-30 It's a bit fragile and you can't varnish over it if you want to keep the effect, at least with Black 2.0. It's really cool but it's more for display pieces.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2019 18:22
|
|
