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RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

ANAmal.net posted:

That's a really nice collection, by the way, both in content and presentation.

Well thank you. It took quite a while to get it that way, as well as far too many action bases and risers. I actually have an entire box full of spare action base parts.

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Veotax
May 16, 2006


Man, the RG Sazibi is so much bigger than I expected. After my first build session I managed to finish up to the waist and that alone was almost as tall as any other 1/144 kit I owned and probably had more parts than any HG I've built. Now after my second session I've finished the whole body (just the backpack and weapons to go) and it's almost twice as tall as my other kits.

Been having more fun with this than I had with the Tallgeese, but that might be down to knowing what to expect and being in a better headspace than I was back then.

Think I'm going to have to do an HG for my next build just for the simplicity and once I've finally moved I'm going to look into tacking an MG.

Azubah
Jun 5, 2007

The Moon Gundam is a rad HG, I really enjoyed the end result.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Azubah posted:

The Moon Gundam is a rad HG, I really enjoyed the end result.

Second.

The IBO HGs are also good builds.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

RillAkBea posted:

...
You mean like this?



This isn't even all of them. :negative: And I have to move apartments next month god help me, though it might be a nice opportunity to get some better shelves because I build up that wall piecemeal and it really shows.

I don't know if there is a preferred method for packaging gunpla for travel, but when I moved I individually wrapped them all in aluminum foil so they wouldn't rub against each other. Looked like a storage bin full of burritos.

Sazabi
Feb 15, 2014

A-MA-ZON!!

Cat Hatter posted:

I don't know if there is a preferred method for packaging gunpla for travel, but when I moved I individually wrapped them all in aluminum foil so they wouldn't rub against each other. Looked like a storage bin full of burritos.

I dismembered mine so I could fit more per box in the hopes of less jostling. I also removed every V-fin, antenna, horn, and thin easily breakable decorative piece and put them in a separate box that carried by hand. Or rode in the glove box. I don't recall finding anything broken when I unpacked.

Fauxtool
Oct 21, 2008

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

Sazabi posted:

I dismembered mine so I could fit more per box in the hopes of less jostling. I also removed every V-fin, antenna, horn, and thin easily breakable decorative piece and put them in a separate box that carried by hand. Or rode in the glove box. I don't recall finding anything broken when I unpacked.

I separated the arms and leg and rolled everything up in plastic wrap. All the breakable bits were taped to the outside of the plastic burrito. Then the whole thing went in an appropriately sized ziploc which was made into a bubble wrap burrito. I moved about 25 models without issue.

I have seen someone using action figure type clamshells that fit MGs

LibrarianCroaker
Mar 30, 2010


Kit was really fun to put together (apart from the chest side of the shoulder assembly and trying to get the loving head on anyway). Also a lot of fun to play around with posing, but I have no idea what to do with that enormous fuckoff sword/bow/backpack thing.

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

Cat Hatter posted:

I don't know if there is a preferred method for packaging gunpla for travel, but when I moved I individually wrapped them all in aluminum foil so they wouldn't rub against each other. Looked like a storage bin full of burritos.


Sazabi posted:

I dismembered mine so I could fit more per box in the hopes of less jostling. I also removed every V-fin, antenna, horn, and thin easily breakable decorative piece and put them in a separate box that carried by hand. Or rode in the glove box. I don't recall finding anything broken when I unpacked.


Fauxtool posted:

I separated the arms and leg and rolled everything up in plastic wrap. All the breakable bits were taped to the outside of the plastic burrito. Then the whole thing went in an appropriately sized ziploc which was made into a bubble wrap burrito. I moved about 25 models without issue.

I have seen someone using action figure type clamshells that fit MGs
Lots of good advice, thanks guys. Now if my new job would hurry up and give me a start date I can get cracking.


LibrarianCroaker posted:



Kit was really fun to put together (apart from the chest side of the shoulder assembly and trying to get the loving head on anyway). Also a lot of fun to play around with posing, but I have no idea what to do with that enormous fuckoff sword/bow/backpack thing.
I have mine posing in Delta form like the box art but if I had the space I would totally put it in bow form because it's just so nuts it's fantastic.

I really wish they had put a vanilla MG Red Frame on general release as well. There is the HiRM now but for that price I'm not sure why you wouldn't just fork out the exrra for the PG instead and besides I can't stand what they've done to the feet on the HiRM.

EthanSteele
Nov 18, 2007

I can hear you
Delta form is the most compact, but there is something to be said for Big Sword on a tiny base.

Moai Ou
May 18, 2004

WE LOVE SHOOTING GAMES!


Fun Shoe
Anyone here familiar with the Mr. Color Mr. Metal paints? Some of the colors (Iron & stainless) buff to a sheen just fine, but others (copper & aluminum) rub off when I buff them or even just handling them. I've tried them on bare plastic and primed and it doesn't make a difference, nor does letting it set for over 24 hours. Does anyone have any suggestions? Can these paints be buffed after putting a clear gloss coat on?

Symetrique
Jan 2, 2013




Moai Ou posted:

Anyone here familiar with the Mr. Color Mr. Metal paints? Some of the colors (Iron & stainless) buff to a sheen just fine, but others (copper & aluminum) rub off when I buff them or even just handling them. I've tried them on bare plastic and primed and it doesn't make a difference, nor does letting it set for over 24 hours. Does anyone have any suggestions? Can these paints be buffed after putting a clear gloss coat on?

The buffable nature of these paints makes them very delicate. The metallic flakes will always rub off unless you clear coat it, but it will lose some of its metallic sheen in the process. You will not be able to buff the paint after sealing it.

As a side note, to get the best metallic finish, you want to use Mr Metal Color over a gloss black surface.

If you're painting large surfaces, this really isnt the ideal paint. You're better off with Mr Super Metallic or Alclad.

Marx Headroom
May 10, 2007

AT LAST! A show with nonono commercials!
Fallen Rib
Yeah I've run into problems with copper too. I gave up and stick with Tamiya acrylic copper. MJP on here has some experience with Mr. Metal Color, his Cherno Alpha build got me into the Mr. Metal Color Dark Iron that stuff rules.

Here's probably the most helpful review I've come across (parts 1-3):

http://blog.nicnilov.com/2015/01/metallic-paints-for-scale-modeling-review-part-one/

Here's a bunch of airplane model nerds going over metallizers and buff finishes:

http://www.essmc.org.au/Natural_Metal_Finish.html

Fauxtool
Oct 21, 2008

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
is this MG ex-s a re-release or new kit?
https://www.amiami.com/eng/detail/?gcode=TOY-GDM-4051

Neddy Seagoon
Oct 12, 2012

"Hi Everybody!"

The EX-S has been out for a while now.

ACES CURE PLANES
Oct 21, 2010



That one in particular is a ver 1.5 at the very least. Basically a version with the same changes to the core model as the Deep Striker

Zonekeeper
Oct 27, 2007



Looks like they're releasing an updated ORIGIN Char's Zaku II (Red Comet edition) in April which looks to be a recolor of the of the Zaku II C/C-5 and all its extra bits (including the belt-fed machine gun) done up in Char's colors.

https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10588610

Fauxtool
Oct 21, 2008

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

ACES CURE PLANES posted:

That one in particular is a ver 1.5 at the very least. Basically a version with the same changes to the core model as the Deep Striker

ok thanks, since I already have the 1st ex-s and the deep striker, that's an easy pass

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

Fauxtool posted:

ok thanks, since I already have the 1st ex-s and the deep striker, that's an easy pass

The new one is a 2 in 1 kit (Ex-S and regular S) that's apparently supposed to be closer to the original Sentinel concepts according to the Bandai Hobby site.


Zonekeeper posted:

Looks like they're releasing an updated ORIGIN Char's Zaku II (Red Comet edition) in April which looks to be a recolor of the of the Zaku II C/C-5 and all its extra bits (including the belt-fed machine gun) done up in Char's colors.

https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10588610

There's also a new regular Zaku II variant kit coming (C-6/R6) that has some extra build options.

The SDCS Sisquedes also look pretty cool but there's so much going on I'm fairly sure they're gonna be a mess of stickerz.

OscarDiggs
Jun 1, 2011

Those sure are words on pages which are given in a sequential order!


First ever Gunpla arrived! Been looking forward to giving it a go.

chiasaur11
Oct 22, 2012



OscarDiggs posted:



First ever Gunpla arrived! Been looking forward to giving it a go.

Classy choice.

I went with the Guncannon for an opener, but we can't all aspire to Kai Shiden's level of excellence.

Should be a nice, clean build. I assume you have clippers?

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak

OscarDiggs posted:



First ever Gunpla arrived! Been looking forward to giving it a go.

Welcome to your new money pit.

I mean welcome to the club!

OscarDiggs
Jun 1, 2011

Those sure are words on pages which are given in a sequential order!

chiasaur11 posted:

Classy choice.

I went with the Guncannon for an opener, but we can't all aspire to Kai Shiden's level of excellence.

Should be a nice, clean build. I assume you have clippers?

I did have some spare ones laying about from a family member. If they're no good I'll order a special pair. Any recommendations?

Puddin posted:

Welcome to your new money pit.

I mean welcome to the club!

Happy to be here!

EVGA Longoria
Dec 25, 2005

Let's go exploring!

OscarDiggs posted:

I did have some spare ones laying about from a family member. If they're no good I'll order a special pair. Any recommendations?


The best general purpose ones I've found have been the Gundam Planet ones. They're capable of getting nice and close to the model if needed, but aren't so thin you risk damaging them by removing the piece from the runner.

https://www.gundamplanet.com/gundam-planet-premium-side-cutter.html

Paired with a nice sharp knife, you're good to go. If you use a hobby knife, change blades every model you build. Also really convenient is sanding sticks. You can buy pre-made hobby ones, but honestly, you can buy a little 4-sided nail block and it'll work great for most pieces.

There's a lot of poo poo you can buy in this hobby, and almost all of it has some nice, cheap alternatives that aren't quite as good but will do the job.

Apprentice Dick
Dec 1, 2009
For sanding sticks check your local woodworking stores if you have any. I got a big bag from 120 to 20000 grit sticks (10 sticks total) for $6. They are exactly the same as the squadron brand sticks for much cheaper.

The Muffinlord
Mar 3, 2007

newbid stupie?
For the best economy as far as a starting kit goes, I still think the basic Tamiya tool set is gonna get you where you need to go. Nothing in there is the best individual tool you can get, but everything in there is going to help you out immensely. I'm still using the craft knife from that set from time to time.

OscarDiggs
Jun 1, 2011

Those sure are words on pages which are given in a sequential order!

Those are actually more expensive then the kit itself. Fine enough investment for if I get big into the hobby but for now a little on the expensive side.

ANAmal.net
Mar 2, 2002


100% digital native web developer
For what it's worth, I just use a set of wire cutters I got from Home Depot or something 20 years ago, and a generic exacto knife, and things seem to come out ok.

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

Marx Headroom posted:

Yeah I've run into problems with copper too. I gave up and stick with Tamiya acrylic copper. MJP on here has some experience with Mr. Metal Color, his Cherno Alpha build got me into the Mr. Metal Color Dark Iron that stuff rules.

Here's probably the most helpful review I've come across (parts 1-3):

http://blog.nicnilov.com/2015/01/metallic-paints-for-scale-modeling-review-part-one/

Here's a bunch of airplane model nerds going over metallizers and buff finishes:

http://www.essmc.org.au/Natural_Metal_Finish.html

Thanks <3 The Dark Iron really does kick rear end. What I highly recommend is, in addition to airbrushing over a gloss black enamel base, using a Dremel buffing wheel at low, low, low speed and very gentle pressure. Let the tool do all the work. If you don't have a Dremel, any lint-free cloth will work, but don't lean into it. Light, light pressure. You want the repeated action of the buffing do the job.

Also, on the subject of a sharp hobby knife - I've been using #24 scalpel blades and loving it. They have every advantage of the Tamiya curved blade/Olfa KB4-R, but at a way lower price. $5, $7ish for 5 blades? Try $5 for 100 blades. $5 for a rounded No. 4 handle or most 100-blade packs come with a free flat handle. The blades are as sharp or sharper than Xacto blades. They don't last as long but even though you might go through 2 blades per HG, you're still way ahead of the cost curve. You do have to be careful putting them on, but a decent hemostat or pair of flat pliers does the trick.

Veotax
May 16, 2006


OscarDiggs posted:



First ever Gunpla arrived! Been looking forward to giving it a go.

Welcome! That's the kit I started with back in December, good base-line modern High Grade. I recommend getting something to panel line with if you haven't already, putting a little shading in the moulded-in can make a kit look so much better.

Be warned, this hobby is addictive as gently caress. I've only been at it for a month and a half and I've just finished my seventh kit and itching to buy another.




OscarDiggs posted:

Those are actually more expensive then the kit itself. Fine enough investment for if I get big into the hobby but for now a little on the expensive side.

I highly recommend getting a good pair of single-bladed nippers like these if you hard into the hobby like I seem to have. Using what you have now is fine for the simple HG kits but I'm glad I picked up a pair when I got started on Real Grades. They're real good at taking nubs right down making clean-up much easier.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak
Yeah it doesn't have to be God Hands, but a good thin single edged nipper is a great investment.

OscarDiggs
Jun 1, 2011

Those sure are words on pages which are given in a sequential order!


Torso plus head get.

Also stopping for today because my eyes are going cross-eyed every few minutes and it's giving me a head ache.

Those stickers are a huge pain in the rear end to get right and I put it more to luck then skill that they came out alright.

Really unhappy with sanding; it seems to do nothing to the nub itself while scratching the rest of the piece to high hell.

By clippers work out fine but the knife I got is some serious poo poo. I've been working with it for half an hour and the tip has bent slightly. Sure, £5 knife is £5 knife but christ that did not last long.

Also the little pole on the left keeps falling off while the one on the right is completely secure. No idea why.

Blackchamber
Jan 25, 2005

Pole...

So triggered.

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

Marx Headroom
May 10, 2007

AT LAST! A show with nonono commercials!
Fallen Rib
That's the TV receiver. It wiggles around so you can find the best signal

garfield hentai
Feb 29, 2004
https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-RG25-RG-HG-1-144-Char-Sazabi-Gundam-Gunpla-Neo-Zeon-Waterslide-Decal-D-L-/232962212833?autorefresh=true

Got a set of these for the RG Sazabi cuz after doing the water slides on the FA-78 I never want to touch stickers again. They're clearly not official but are they at least kinda decent?

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

On the subject of knives though, while everyone likes the scalpel/exacto style knives I could never get the hang of them. I feel much more comfortable with a snapping craft knife. The Olfa 9mm black blades are fantastically sharp though they dull somewhat faster than regular blades. I don't mind going through a few extra blades though.

OscarDiggs
Jun 1, 2011

Those sure are words on pages which are given in a sequential order!

Blackchamber posted:

Pole...

So triggered.

Tell me how to get them to stay in place without glue and I'll call them whatever you want me to call them :colbert:

Monaghan
Dec 29, 2006

OscarDiggs posted:

Tell me how to get them to stay in place without glue and I'll call them whatever you want me to call them :colbert:

not sure why you're having trouble with that one, maybe put a little bit of sticky tack in the backpack's hole?

Veotax
May 16, 2006


OscarDiggs posted:

Tell me how to get them to stay in place without glue and I'll call them whatever you want me to call them :colbert:

Those are the handles for the beam sabres, unless you never want to have it holding the swords you want them to be removable. But if it's too loose then maybe a little bit of blu tack?

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OscarDiggs
Jun 1, 2011

Those sure are words on pages which are given in a sequential order!

Monaghan posted:

not sure why you're having trouble with that one, maybe put a little bit of sticky tack in the backpack's hole?

Veotax posted:

Those are the handles for the beam sabres, unless you never want to have it holding the swords you want them to be removable. But if it's too loose then maybe a little bit of blu tack?

This should work, thanks!

I'll give it a go when I do the arms tommorow.

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