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I just used my friends m12 fuel 3/8 ratchet to change the water pump on my xj, it was so awesome. What an incredible tool. We were just laughing, it must be an absolute godsend for mechanics.
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Jan 10, 2019 13:56
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FWIW I have the M12 1/4" and it has no problem busting anything loose that isn't a lug nut or brake/suspension related.
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Jan 10, 2019 16:17
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It could be the vehicles I work on but I haven't found anywhere that my M12 Fuel 3/8 wouldn't fit, where my M12 non-fuel 3/8 would. But I have found a lot of bolts where there non-fuel just doesn't have enough power to do much.
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Jan 10, 2019 18:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:It could be the vehicles I work on but I haven't found anywhere that my M12 Fuel 3/8 wouldn't fit, where my M12 non-fuel 3/8 would. But I have found a lot of bolts where there non-fuel just doesn't have enough power to do much. Same. I find myself having to turn the non-fuel 3/8 manually so often I usually just opt for a plain ratchet.
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Jan 10, 2019 19:24
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Oh didn't realize we were talking about ratchets. I was thinking of my impact.
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Jan 10, 2019 19:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:It could be the vehicles I work on but I haven't found anywhere that my M12 Fuel 3/8 wouldn't fit, where my M12 non-fuel 3/8 would. But I have found a lot of bolts where there non-fuel just doesn't have enough power to do much. Sounds like 3/8” fuel + Astro stubby sockets is probably about the sweet spot, then. The only bolt I can think of that might be close is the XJ alternator bolts, but if I can spin it most of the way with the battery it’d be an improvement.
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Jan 10, 2019 21:51
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I've got the 1/4" non-fuel and the 3/8" fuel and it's a great combo. I use the 3/8" more, especially since I picked up the 1/4" stubby impact.
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Jan 12, 2019 17:24
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I am disappoint https://giant.gfycat.com/SlimWindingFawn.webm
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Jan 13, 2019 07:24
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The itch to get into welding is growing, so I'm looking for what to get as a starter welder. I'm not in the US so it's probably more a question of what to look for in general. I know AvE preaches stick welding, but to be honest I'll probably do smaller stuff and a project car in the future. I have one thing that does need welding and it's a cement mixer with a broken joint, so the cost of a welder would be offset by not having to buy a new cement mixer. From what I've read a MIG welder is the easiest and cheapest way to get into welding for thinner metals (as I gather stick welding is not suitable for automotive thickness metal). I don't have 3-phase at the moment, but that can easily be sorted (really needs to as well anyway) and I gather there is no real point in not buying a 3-phase welder anyway. So I guess the question is new or used. Gut feeling says that unless I'm spending tons of cash, a used welder is a much better bang for the buck. Other than these thought I'm pretty clueless to what to look for.
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Jan 13, 2019 11:19
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MrOnBicycle posted:The itch to get into welding is growing, so I'm looking for what to get as a starter welder. I'm not in the US so it's probably more a question of what to look for in general. I know AvE preaches stick welding, but to be honest I'll probably do smaller stuff and a project car in the future. I have one thing that does need welding and it's a cement mixer with a broken joint, so the cost of a welder would be offset by not having to buy a new cement mixer. When I was in your shoes, the Hobart 140 is what this thread sold me on. It’s solid, no frills, but predictable and has a longer duty cycle than the cheaper HF wirefeeds. It’s rated up to 1/4” steel with wirefeed, a little less with gas. It’s been plenty for my little square stock and sheet metal projects. I figure if I outgrow it, there’s still some value in a welder that I can take pretty much anywhere and run off a regular 120v wall plug. Don’t forget to budget in a tank of C25 if you want prettier welds. The initial investment is kind of high, but the refills aren’t bad. Tanks expire, so be careful buying used. Matheson/Linweld (maybe lots of places?) will always swap tanks with their stamp regardless of expiration.
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Jan 13, 2019 12:15
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eddiewalker posted:When I was in your shoes, the Hobart 140 is what this thread sold me on. It’s solid, no frills, but predictable and has a longer duty cycle than the cheaper HF wirefeeds. Appreciate it! Some dude is selling a couple of MIG welders, and one of them is pretty decently in my price range. Has the following specs: code: ...if that's useful. Can do gas or no gas. From the euro welding forums I find it mentioned it has a good reputation. GYS Smartweld 162. Claims to be able to do 0.8mm - 4mm+ MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Jan 13, 2019 |
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Jan 13, 2019 18:28
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I'd hold off for something that has more wire speed/voltage adjustments. Ideally a linear range with 'infinite' adjustments. As far as I can tell that box has 4 voltage settings.
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Jan 14, 2019 03:40
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Also, shouldn't there be an AC / DC selector, for going between steel and aluminum?
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Jan 14, 2019 04:43
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I've had my Lincoln 140c for about 10 years now and it performs great for a 110v machine. I picked it since it had infinite adjustments on wirespeed and voltage. It was also a bit cheaper than the equivalent Miller 110 Mig. For thicker than 1/8" you'll most likely have to switch to a fluxcored wire. I would stick with a well known name brand that has good support in your country. Safety Dance posted:Also, shouldn't there be an AC / DC selector, for going between steel and aluminum? You have to switch to straight argon for aluminum and usually use a spool gun with a mig welder. AC is used with Tig welding aluminum.
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Jan 14, 2019 05:05
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Safety Dance posted:Also, shouldn't there be an AC / DC selector, for going between steel and aluminum? AC is for welding aluminum with TIG. For MIG you reverse the polarity, usually done by swapping lugs on the main MIG welder case itself.
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Jan 14, 2019 05:07
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NinjaTech posted:I've had my Lincoln 140c for about 10 years now and it performs great for a 110v machine. I picked it since it had infinite adjustments on wirespeed and voltage. It was also a bit cheaper than the equivalent Miller 110 Mig. For thicker than 1/8" you'll most likely have to switch to a fluxcored wire. I would stick with a well known name brand that has good support in your country. Sounds good. Looked some more on local forums and they all say the same. Will be sure to find something like an ESAB or Kemppi etc. FatCow posted:I'd hold off for something that has more wire speed/voltage adjustments. Ideally a linear range with 'infinite' adjustments. As far as I can tell that box has 4 voltage settings. Makes sense. I take it that all the "Oh it takes the guesswork out of welding" is mostly marketing and after getting decent enough at welding it'll only be annoying and limiting?
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Jan 14, 2019 10:27
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MrOnBicycle posted:Makes sense. I take it that all the "Oh it takes the guesswork out of welding" is mostly marketing and after getting decent enough at welding it'll only be annoying and limiting? Yeah, being able to adjust the weld a wee bit more for both amperage and wire speed is nice. Most decent welders have infinite adjustments.
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Jan 14, 2019 16:46
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Who makes a decent 1/4" socket set these days? (Preferrably with a spinner) Useful for an older car... Something similar to this... https://www.ebay.com/itm/SK-1-4-inch-drive-15-piece-socket-set-USA/233093192306?hash=item36456fda72:g:C24AAOSwUHBcO7mr:rk:7:pf:0 Maybe I should just buy that...
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Jan 26, 2019 07:49
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Senor P. posted:Who makes a decent 1/4" socket set these days?
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Jan 26, 2019 07:55
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Krakkles posted:I prefer flex head ratchets, but other than that, that set looks nice. Buy that. What's with the ellipses? Oh! I did not think I used it three times. I thought I only used it once, my bad.
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Jan 26, 2019 08:06
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So for my current project of drilling out / hammering out rivets on my truck, my little twin-tank air compressor just doesn't have enough air to get anything done. A bit annoying because the air hammer is pretty much the only air tool I have that demands that kind of air, and technically the compressor is rated to deliver "enough" air, but it has to cycle on within just a few seconds of hammering. Gets toasty hot and spits a ton of water down the hose after a few minutes of this abuse. Why are horizontal tanks nearly extinct? Ideally I'd stick this under my workbench but it seems like in the 20-30 gallon and around $300 price range, they're all vertical. I'm looking at this Kobalt primarily. For comparison, the closest horizontal I can seem to find is this Campbell Hausfeld which is smaller, less powerful, and louder.
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Jan 28, 2019 19:25
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I think that Kobalt is just a California Air Tool rebadge or knockoff. There have been some screaming deals on those on Amazon. I have one of their aluminum twin stacks and it's crazy quiet. Unless they've changed suppliers, they're really good.
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Jan 29, 2019 05:10
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Given that there's no comparable-spec California Air Tools model, and HF has their own "Ultra Quiet" compressors out there, I'm going with knockoff. Closest they have in specs / price on this is a 10 gallon. Slightly higher CFM rating, though. Went to the store and measured the boxes for the hell of it (they didn't have any sitting unboxed) - the unit itself is probably 20x20 and drat near 48" tall, so no way is it fitting under my workbench  Need to see if I can find room for it. At least with Lowes there's the coupon generator so I can get either $25 or $30 off. Of course then if I'm dealing with vertical anyway, there's always this at HD...
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Jan 29, 2019 05:38
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Ended up getting the Kobalt. Not a bad deal after a $25-off-$250 code. Going to have to run som conduit to put an outlet by the best spot for it, though.
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Jan 30, 2019 07:42
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What're the reasons you can't run the compressor on its side? Aren't they oilless?
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Jan 30, 2019 10:41
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Water drain would be a problem off the top of my head, not sure about what else but maybe?
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Jan 30, 2019 15:11
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slidebite posted:Water drain would be a problem off the top of my head, not sure about what else but maybe? Right, that was the only thing I'd be worried about, but easy enough to wheel it out and stand it up to drain, if you can resist the temptation of burying it in poo poo lol.
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Jan 30, 2019 16:55
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sharkytm posted:I think that Kobalt is just a California Air Tool rebadge or knockoff. There have been some screaming deals on those on Amazon. I have one of their aluminum twin stacks and it's crazy quiet. Unless they've changed suppliers, they're really good. Those look really tempting. Would a twin, or even a single, be sufficient for topping off tires and running a nail gun (weekend warrior style)?
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Jan 30, 2019 17:49
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always be closing posted:Right, that was the only thing I'd be worried about, but easy enough to wheel it out and stand it up to drain, if you can resist the temptation of burying it in poo poo lol. Literally zero probability I could resist that temptation. Also, you'd need to come up with some sort of cradle to support it that way. Running conduit / relocating the air hose reel aren't going to be too hard and it will make it a lot easier to charge the electric start on my pressure washer while I'm at it. In case anyone is interested, the actual dimensions on the Kobalt are about 19x19x47. I was able to shift my toolboxes down a few inches without ruining anything else, and the cabinet that was where the compressor is now will fit under the workbench. nitsuga posted:Those look really tempting. Would a twin, or even a single, be sufficient for topping off tires and running a nail gun (weekend warrior style)? A lovely little 12V compressor will eventually top off tires, literally anything with a tank can do that easy. I've literally only used a brad nailer for one project but it didn't seem to be particularly air-hungry, not compared to my impact gun / air hammer / blow gun.
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Jan 30, 2019 18:06
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always be closing posted:Right, that was the only thing I'd be worried about, but easy enough to wheel it out and stand it up to drain, if you can resist the temptation of burying it in poo poo lol. You could always just put a new drain in it at the new low point of the tank. Right?
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Jan 30, 2019 18:55
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nitsuga posted:Those look really tempting. Would a twin, or even a single, be sufficient for topping off tires and running a nail gun (weekend warrior style)? They're perfect for that. Mine is basically nailgun/stapler/blow gun duty for in-the-house woodworking projects. I've got an 80 gallon, 5HP C-H in the garage for bigger poo poo. However, it's loud as gently caress, and requires earpro to use. The CAT is quiet enough to have a conversation next to it. Plus, mine is the AL tank model, so it's pretty light.
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Jan 31, 2019 00:28
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Cool! Would be nice to not have to do the tire checkups in gas station parking lots. I figure if I go small now I can go big if/when I need it.
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Jan 31, 2019 03:44
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Some dude is selling a cheap no-name late 90's table/bench drill press. I'm trying to justify it by coming up with useful situations for car stuff. Can't really think of any. Anyone have any examples where a bench drill press is useful for automotive stuff? I've already got a 12V drill and impact. I've not used a drill press since shop class in school, but I seem to remember it being nice to be able to very precisely drill stuff. Perhaps for rust removal and general cleaning of up of parts?
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Feb 1, 2019 18:52
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MrOnBicycle posted:Some dude is selling a cheap no-name late 90's table/bench drill press. I'm trying to justify it by coming up with useful situations for car stuff. Can't really think of any. Anyone have any examples where a bench drill press is useful for automotive stuff? I've already got a 12V drill and impact. I've not used a drill press since shop class in school, but I seem to remember it being nice to be able to very precisely drill stuff. Perhaps for rust removal and general cleaning of up of parts? I can't offhand think of anything you'd use a drill press for from a general maintenance perspective, if you were fabbing up brackets and mounts it might be handy. I don't think the benefit is so much precision (you should probably be center punching and pre-drilling holes you need precise anyway), as not making holes that are angled one way or the other. I've tried to tap holes I've drilled with a hand drill and realized they're off at some goofy angle, even though the hole started out in the right spot. I guess you could put a wire wheel in one and use it as a ghetto bench grinder, but the speed probably isn't high enough to compare to a real bench grinder with a wheel. If it were me, I'd buy it anyway regardless of usefulness, as long as it seems to be in decent shape and functions. More tools = more better. Also, a drill press is something that makes a space look more like a shop, rather than a garage with random poo poo everywhere.
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Feb 1, 2019 20:30
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Whats the threads recommendation for a good soldering station? My crappy Chinese one melted the SMD resolder gun and I'm not about to buy new tips for the crappy iron. Should I just avoid 'stations' altogether and get a proper iron and separate heat/smd rework gun? I do like digital temp controls but I'm not married to them.
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Feb 11, 2019 05:54
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TS100 is the new hotness in irons. I’ve never used one because I have no complaints with the HAKKO FX-888D.
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Feb 11, 2019 06:02
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I have a TS100 but I haven't even used it yet. What are you looking to solder? For just about everything, I love my Metcal MX500; you can usually find these for under $300 used. Best iron I've ever used. At work we mostly have Weller WESD51. They are decent, but I'm partial to the WD1 we also have. I've never been too impressed by anything Hakko makes, but maybe I walked into that with some prejudice because they look like Windows XP.
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Feb 11, 2019 08:58
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Louis Rossmann has some videos on the TS100, it looks pretty good for the money and IIRC he liked it. I've been looking at soda blasters, mainly for cleaning hard to get to spots on brake calipers, rims, tools and so on but also painted wood (where I don't want any real abrasion). Waste of time or good? Looks good in videos, but there is always some comment about how poo poo it is. Anyone got any experience? I'm not expecting it to remove more than dirt and paint.
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Feb 11, 2019 12:13
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Platystemon posted:TS100 is the new hotness in irons. I see what you did there. I like it. Raluek posted:I have a TS100 but I haven't even used it yet. What are you looking to solder? For just about everything, I love my Metcal MX500; you can usually find these for under $300 used. Best iron I've ever used. At work we mostly have Weller WESD51. They are decent, but I'm partial to the WD1 we also have. I need to solder pretty much everything that needs soldering; from 10ga wire to surface mount. I've got a bunch of turntables that need restoration which means replacing the impossibly delicate tonearm wires on the pcb. I've got a few electronics projects I need to work on, which means soldering a bunch of SMD's and leds. Same goes for building amps, and making cables. I have a few motorcycle wiring harnesses that need work, etc... and this is just the stuff backed up on my to-do list. Who knows what poo poo will pop-up in the future. MrOnBicycle posted:Louis Rossmann has some videos on the TS100, it looks pretty good for the money and IIRC he liked it. I bought the Harbor Freight one. It's terribly inefficient, and requires constant cleaning, but it works, it's adjustable, and it was drat cheap.
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Feb 11, 2019 17:49
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I'd get a nice soldering station like a Hakko. I have a TS100 and it's great as a portable iron or even small electronics use, but for big stuff or a lot of stuff it's going to be cumbersome. I really hate how it doesn't have a stand so you just have to gently put down the 700+ degree tip and try not to let it roll off the table or burn stuff. It heats up really fast and holds heat for small electronics stuff just as well as my Hakko station though. I doubt it would be much use for 10 gauge wire and such--it really only has as much power as the power supply you plug into it, so you'd want a beefy 19V laptop power supply for sure. My Hakko 936 is going on 15 years old now and works great on anything I throw at it. I'm sure the more recent models like the FX-888 are just fine too.
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Feb 11, 2019 17:52
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